Mopar Trail Rail Kit Installation

[steffen707]

after borrowing a second set of needle-nosed vise grips I was able to back out the nut enough to free the bolt. It took forever, turning 1/64” at a time, but ultimately it came out. Had the whole system installed 10 minutes later after using a fresh bolt, nut, and washers(!) to crush the nutserts. Thankful for threads like this!

glad you were able to get it sorted out.

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[Like_coffee]

Can somebody tell me the measurements of one of the rails, not the length, but the width and height of the piece, somewhere around 1.5"x1.5" i assume.

Thanks.

I'm looking for this info as well. Did you ever receive a response?

 

[steffen707]

I'm looking for this info as well. Did you ever receive a response?

i could measure builtright's rail for you, but not the mopar ones.

 

[Like_coffee]

They are supposed to be the same dimensions so that would be awesome!

 

[steffen707]

They are supposed to be the same dimensions so that would be awesome!

if it wasn't 34 degrees and raining out, i would go measure now.

 

[JRobes]

Here's some additional photos of one of the side rails and cleats you get with the kit, and my experience with my factory-bedlined install. Also, the rails are about 2" wide, and 1-3/8" tall (see pics).

If your bed is bedlined:
Getting the M6 torx bolts in can be time consuming if bedliner got into the mounting holes/nuts for the rails. I started by taking a utility knife and tried to cut out excess bedliner from the front of the mounting holes. This was time consuming, and risked cutting through the bedliner and paint, which could cause rust issues later. Be very careful doing this initial part. Once I got the excess bedliner removed from the front of the mounting holes, I just took a cordless drill with torx bit and VERY slowly and carefully ran one of the mounting bolts in/out of the nut threads many times; as soon as the bolt starts to bind up on the bedliner in the threads, back it out, clean off the bolt threads, and CAREFULLY run it back in. Eventually it'll wear down the bedliner material off the nut threads and the bolt will go all the way through. You do risk cross-threading the bolts/nuts doing this, but not a single one of mine did so YMMV.

The only other difficult part was the nutserts in the rear bed wall, but using a home-made nutsert tool similar to the one in the OP of this thread helps immensely, and I'd even venture to actually say it's mandatory unless you have an actual nutsert gun.

 

[TheNewWampsCat]

How many of these does Mopar give with the kit?

 

[JRobes]

How many of these does Mopar give with the kit?

2 come pre-installed on each side rail. None on the front rail, but you can move some to the front rail if you want.

 

[TheNewWampsCat]

2 come pre-installed on each side rail. None on the front rail, but you can move some to the front rail if you want.

That’s why I asked my sport s was found on the lot and I had them add on the cargo management more for the outlet and the under seat box. After all was said and done they couldn’t do either of those and I ended up with the rails. Just looking at it seems there should be two on the front also....

 

[JRobes]

That’s why I asked my sport s was found on the lot and I had them add on the cargo management more for the outlet and the under seat box. After all was said and done they couldn’t do either of those and I ended up with the rails. Just looking at it seems there should be two on the front also....

I wish my max tow had the cargo management too. But on the bright side, the rail kit is under $300, vs the whole cargo management package being $900 from the factory. So you save $600, but miss out on the bed outlet and under seat storage... I'd imagine a higher wattage aftermarket kit will be available in the future, so I'll gladly put some of that saved $600 towards that. Underseat storage box is "meh" for me.

 

[steffen707]

I wish my max tow had the cargo management too. But on the bright side, the rail kit is under $300, vs the whole cargo management package being $900 from the factory. So you save $600, but miss out on the bed outlet and under seat storage... I'd imagine a higher wattage aftermarket kit will be available in the future, so I'll gladly put some of that saved $600 towards that. Underseat storage box is "meh" for me.

TOTALLY agree. I can't use underseat box anyway because of hard to move child seats. can make your own rail kit, or buy one from Builtright for $200 ish. Then spend $700 on a much more powerful inverter.

That's the route i'm going anyway, and normally I spring for the factory options. That particular one just didn't make sense for me.

 

[WhatExit?]

Does anyone know the T-Slot dimensions of the Gladiator Trail Rail?

I ask because there are a variety of T-Slot nuts available on Amazon and elsewhere but many fit the Toyota Bed Rail which has a slightly different T-Slot size. While they work it'd be good to know the size of the Trail Rail T-Slot so we can identify which hardware fits best in our Trail Rails.

Link: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...or-me-gladiator-rack.27705/page-4#post-458175

 

[JRobes]

Does anyone know the T-Slot dimensions of the Gladiator Trail Rail?

I ask because there are a variety of T-Slot nuts available on Amazon and elsewhere but many fit the Toyota Bed Rail which has a slightly different T-Slot size. While they work it'd be good to know the size of the Trail Rail T-Slot so we can identify which hardware fits best in our Trail Rails.

Link: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...or-me-gladiator-rack.27705/page-4#post-458175

What dims are you looking for beyond what I show in my pics a few posts above? For what it's worth, I bought the 10 pack of stainless steel t slot nuts on Amazon, and they fit, but I wish they were a hair wider to fit more snug in the channel opening. But they do work, and once tightened down don't move.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TYLVYPX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[WhatExit?]

What dims are you looking for beyond what I show in my pics a few posts above? For what it's worth, I bought the 10 pack of stainless steel t slot nuts on Amazon, and they fit, but I wish they were a hair wider to fit more snug in the channel opening. But they do work, and once tightened down don't move.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TYLVYPX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Thanks.

I bought them too and they work fine. But I figured we could find out the internal dimensions of the Trail Rails and see if there's Stainless Steel T-Slot nuts that fit better in the Trail Rails than in the Toyota Bed Rails - Space Invader mentioned Grainger's T-Slot nuts fitting better but they're not SS.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...or-me-gladiator-rack.27705/page-4#post-458175

 

[steffen707]

What dims are you looking for beyond what I show in my pics a few posts above? For what it's worth, I bought the 10 pack of stainless steel t slot nuts on Amazon, and they fit, but I wish they were a hair wider to fit more snug in the channel opening. But they do work, and once tightened down don't move.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TYLVYPX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Thanks for the photos. Can you actually measure the width of the T-Nut for me where indicated in red? I've got an RSI rail system, but my Alu-Cab that's coming I think is designed for the MOPAR rail, and i don't have access to one, or the nuts to measure.

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