GCoop
Well-Known Member
The Glens can be nice to take along as well.I like to take a occasional walk with Johnny.
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The Glens can be nice to take along as well.I like to take a occasional walk with Johnny.
But it also doesn't mean they aren't overfilling your engine either. My paperwork indicated 6 quarts installed, and I drained out .75 qt. before my dipstick indicated oil at the full mark.I'm going to add a little bit of insight from my dealership service days. I was a tech for a couple years and a service advisor for a few more after that. What is billed on your work order is just that, nothing more. If the shop is using bottles and not overhead pumps then 5.1 quarts would be billed as 6 quarts. They don't keep half full bottles of oil in inventory. Imagine the nightmare and slick shelves that would cause along with the inevitable inventory variance issues. Anything from a new bottle is full billed for the quart. The remaining oil in the bottle likely makes its way into the techs box and next time they bill 6 again and use the oil from the first bottle on their next oil change in the shop. To be honest the unopened but billed bottles are probably the techs friend/family supply of free oil. If you have worked in a shop setting you also know they don't sit idle and wait for every last drop to come out like you may at home, and they sure as hell aren't waiting 10 minutes after the add oil for the level to stabilize. 99.999% of the time the tech did it correct, and that tech wasn't involved in what's written on your ticket. Parts department added the lines for the supplies needed and the advisor did the rest. If parts billed 9 quarts by mistake that doesn't mean the tech put it in, same if they billed 4. All that said, check your dipstick, and you'll catch that .001% mistake. I would always pop the hood and check the level with the customer during delivery back to the customer not only to show the customer it was right and nice clear oil, but also to cover my techs back and avoid comebacks if we could catch a mistake before it went down the road, but customer service is a dying art. Moral of the story, in Raegan's immoral words "trust, but verify" and the words on the paper are the official record, but that doesn't mean that's what happened. If the exact level on the stick matters to you then tell your advisor, or expect filled to the top line in my experience.
Completely why I mentioned checking the dipstick prior to leaving. In your situation if the advisor did that you'd never make it off the lot with too much in there.But it also doesn't mean they aren't overfilling your engine either. My paperwork indicated 6 quarts installed, and I drained out .75 qt. before my dipstick indicated oil at the full mark.
Yes, a pleasurable walk.The Glens can be nice to take along as well.
You can drive with 6 quarts. I noticed no apparent foaming.Completely why I mentioned checking the dipstick prior to leaving. In your situation if the advisor did that you'd never make it off the lot with too much in there.
As my dealer explained - anything over a round number (anything over 5, for example) is charged or written up as the next full quart increment. So 5.2 is written up as 6.If the shop is using bottles and not overhead pumps then 5.1 quarts would be billed as 6 quarts.
100% agreed.You can drive with 6 quarts. I noticed no apparent foaming.
Is it ideal? No. Will extended high RPM be more of a risk? Could be - depends on how the windage tray in these works, the crank throws (I've not had a 3.6 apart like that) and other factors.
But you'll make it home and even a couple hundred miles without issue.
My first wave change they did put 6 in. It was after driving it around, a couple of days later I decided to check after it had sat a while. It was above full.
I went back to the dealer and just talked about it and they asked if I had some time - yeah - bring it around, we'll take care of it. They did a complete oil change AGAIN.
They said don't go by the invoice - go by the stick.
They pulled the stick, it was over full, they did another oil change.
As my dealer explained - anything over a round number (anything over 5, for example) is charged or written up as the next full quart increment. So 5.2 is written up as 6.
So there are two possible things when you see "6 quarts" on the paperwork -
They put in 5.1 or more and it will be billed as 6 (imagine the wave repayment they get from that)
or
They put in 6 and you need to check it and talk to them about it.
I can imagine a lot of Jeep Wave oil changes get written up as 6 because they collect an extra buck or two for each one.
In my experience with what we used to call "oil, lube and service" in the 70s and 80s, you didn't stand and wait for a "can" to empty until dry. We would open one and start it draining, then we'd start washing the windows, then we'd stop and do the next one, and maybe do some other check, so we did get them pretty well emptied, but in later years you emptied one until it started the drip-drip process then started the next one. I'd take those cans or bottles and tip them up into a funnel onto an "oiler" - you know, flex snout, trigger, you use to lube stuff. I could do 3 or 4 oil changes and fill one of those oiler cans/bottoms. And I do that today when I do my own oil changes. I don't open a new bottle of oil and fill it - I tip the bottles from my oil changes into it and let each bottle sit overnight. So if I can get 3 or 4 ounces of oil out of the bottles from an oil change............. imagine a shop, be it Grease Monkey, Duke of Oil, or the fast lane at your dealer, they aren't letting those bottles sit there for 5 minutes.
If that is the case, why not get a custom made 10 quart pan ?Hmmm Guess i'll look for the '6 quart capacity oil pan off an older Pentastar and swap it out. If the bolt holes still line up. Oil is good to help with cooling, 6 is better.
Its why you use the Motorcraft FL1a filter on the 4.0
Better yet - an oil cooler of larger capacity. The pan has very little to do with it. Keep the oil moving and flowing. That's ONE reason thicker oils don't cool as well. They aren't cycling from pan to moving parts back to pan as quickly. More flow = more cooling.If that is the case, why not get a custom made 10 quart pan ?
Really ? You would change out the oil pan on a brand new 50k truck to get one more quart of oil to help with cooling ?
Your kidding right ?
Seriously? And how do you compensate for the oil that doesn't pour out of the container?Ive never changed my own oil till i bought the gladiator. Didnt need to jack up the jt, so i really had no excuse not to. That, and i plan to never sell the jt so i decided the best way to learn about it inside out would be to do all the required maintenance that i felt cable doing. If i find a youtube video on it, ill try it ? if i have the necessary tools. Anyways, when i change the oil i check the level first, go for a drive and change it after waiting 20 mins or so. I always have an extra 5qt container of the oil i use. I always pour the old oil in the container and compare it to the level of what was orginally in the container. Then ill pour in the exact amount with the new container, i guess this method would compensate for any oil that did not drip out.