Oil - going from 0w20 to 0w40

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a feeling the facts are being ignored by FCA.

Notice some of the key words here -

and I am unwilling to try to debunk internet oil myths and PUG design flaw myths.

In other words - some of the stuff people read on the internet is crap.
Gee............ really?

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[Stan H]

Notice some of the key words here -



In other words - some of the stuff people read on the internet is crap.
Gee............ really?

Well , I feel we all have our own theories . I have mine as well , and it literally would be laughed at some I don't say it in here.

 

[JTGuy]

On this forum we only have the facts,,,lol.

 

[Gladiator85]

While I do think 0w-8, 0w-16 or 0w20 is strictly CAFE and not for the best of the longevity of any motor. I don't think jumping to a 0w40 is the answer for the 3.6. I'd venture to say 5w30 would be a far better option all around.

Few things more viscosity spread you have your base oil has to be very good as shearing out of grade will happen well before the next oil change which is why a 5w30 I feel is the better option.

Also running an oil with higher ZDDP and lower calcium with more magnesium to make up the detergent/dispersant along with a good dose of moly or even boron is another important factor as well.

I have found the RP HPS is the best oil for just about any motor longterm. The synerlec also creates a tenacious oil film for good boundry lubrication between cold starts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

While I do think 0w-8, 0w-16 or 0w20 is strictly CAFE

I guess you missed what I posted from the training materials and from a post at BITOG forums explaining the reasoning.

 

[Gladiator85]

I guess you missed what I posted from the training materials and from a post at BITOG forums explaining the reasoning.

Must have. I don't know very much about oil. It's my first time ever touching a vehicle. Do I pull filter? Drain first? Fill first. It's all so confusing.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Must have. I don't know very much about oil. It's my first time ever touching a vehicle. Do I pull filter? Drain first? Fill first. It's all so confusing.

- was talking about how the VVL is made to operate at peak using specific viscosities, as laid out by an expert on BITOG, and as also stated by FCA in their training materials on the VVL system.

A good base oil, and the additives to match, will ensure the oil doesn't sheer out of grade, as proven by a number of reports - and oil engineers.

These systems, cam timing, VVL, all were designed around a specific viscosity.

Sound like a RP salesman.

 

[Gladiator85]

Ok. The 3.6 was spec'd on 5w30 in 2011. Wasn't until 2013 it was 5w20 then 0w20 in 2018. Tolerances were not changed in that time. In fact most export models will recommend a thicker oil. Further indicative that thin oils shorten the life expectancy.

Think about this they just want the piece of shit to make it up until warranty is over then they don't care anymore. You'll either replace or repair the vehicle. They make money no matter the outcome.

I'll argue with any jughead on that. As far as RP goes people hate on it because its purple thats it. The dye burns off within a day of driving anyway.

I'll put RP HPS or XPR against any of the watered down API c student oils. Red Line about the only oil that would come close. All other oils are mediocre at best.

 

[Lost1wing]

I have a fleet of vehicles to maintain. When I was younger, most of my gas engines called for 10w30. That changed over the years to 5w30. My first engine that called for 5w20 was my Ford 4.6l. I wanted to keep thing simple for me, so on it's first oil change I put in 5w30. The engine had 257k miles on it and never burned oil. It survived an overtemp when the intake manifold failed. It had cooked all of the gaskets and I started having leaks and started hearing a little engine rattle (rockers), I thought at the time. I had a 5 qt jug of 0w20 Castrol that I was never going to use so I put it in the 4.6l. The start up rattle got worse, lasted maybe 4 seconds longer. That car got a lower mile engine installed. The noise I was hearing from the old 4.6l turned out to be from the timing chain. The timing chain tensioner seals were also cooked from the overheat, allowing oil to drain out. The 5w30 oil did not drain out as much as the 0w20 I am guessing.

Every gas vehicle that I have acquired that called for 0w20 or 5w20 got 5w30 instead. That is until 2020 with the Gladiator. First Vehicle with vvt, so I read a bit about it and for the time I have been using 0w20.

So with the gorilla test and the sledgehammer, is the oil thickness the same between 0w20 and 0w40? That should only be a viscosity difference and not a thicker film. Right?

For now, I will keep using 0w20. If I hear noise at start-up, I will change to 5w30 and see if the noise goes away.

 

[Stan H]

Ok. The 3.6 was spec'd on 5w30 in 2011. Wasn't until 2013 it was 5w20 then 0w20 in 2018. Tolerances were not changed in that time. In fact most export models will recommend a thicker oil. Further indicative that thin oils shorten the life expectancy.

Think about this they just want the piece of shit to make it up until warranty is over then they don't care anymore. You'll either replace or repair the vehicle. They make money no matter the outcome.

I'll argue with any jughead on that. As far as RP goes people hate on it because its purple thats it. The dye burns off within a day of driving anyway.

I'll put RP HPS or XPR against any of the watered down API c student oils. Red Line about the only oil that would come close. All other oils are mediocre at best.

Bwahahaha, your funny dude
Hey if all other oil were mediocre at best everyone would be buying RP .
The real truth is its mediocrity is without question.

 

[Charles 236]

The original, or Classic Pentastar, started out with 5w30 oil specified, and later was specified to use 5w20. The Pentastar Upgrade came out in the 2016 model year, and has NEVER, EVER had any oil specified except 0w20. Now everyone who confuses these two very different engines, go sit down and write 500 times, "The Pentastar Upgrade is NOT the same as the Classic Pentastar, and only has 0w20 oil specified. "

 

[Stan H]

The original, or Classic Pentastar, started out with 5w30 oil specified, and later was specified to use 5w20. The Pentastar Upgrade came out in the 2016 model year, and has NEVER, EVER had any oil specified except 0w20. Now everyone who confuses these two very different engines, go sit down and write 500 times, "The Pentastar Upgrade is NOT the same as the Classic Pentastar, and only has 0w20 oil specified. "

Now that made me laugh reminded me of my 3rd grade teacher (Mrs. Delaney) she loved making people write on the chalk board.
Especially I will listen in class and raise my hand if I have a question were her 2 favorites.

 

[Charles 236]

Now that made me laugh reminded me of my 3rd grade teacher (Mrs. Delaney) she loved making people write on the chalk board.
Especially I will listen in class and raise my hand if I have a question were her 2 favorites.

My fifth grade teacher, Mrs. Davis, had a very long sentence, "I will not talk in class when the teacher is talking because it is rude." , that she sentenced the entire class to write 1,000 times. I refused, I was used to being paddled almost daily, and couldn't see any point to writing that sentence 1,000 times. After I wrote it 11 times, I decided I was done, just bring the paddle and get on with it.

 

[Hootbro]

In fact most export models will recommend a thicker oil.

Globally though for the PUG at least in the Gladiator and Wrangler, 0W-20 is the only oil called out with no mention of alternates or to adjust for location expected operating conditions.

FCA also does the same for other models of only globally specifying one motor oil grade.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Globally though for the PUG at least in the Gladiator and Wrangler, 0W-20 is the only oil called out with no mention of alternates or to adjust for location expected operating conditions.

FCA also does the same for other models of only globally specifying one motor oil grade.

I believe in the EU, it must be specified for the life of the engine as well. No going to something else later. What it comes out with is what it must be able to use for the life of the engine.

The 3.6 was spec'd on 5w30 in 2011. Wasn't until 2013 it was 5w20 then 0w20 in 2018. Tolerances were not changed in that time. In fact most export models will recommend a thicker oil. Further indicative that thin oils shorten the life expectancy

A Wrangler guy who doesn't know about the PUG and the fact it came out in Grand Cherokee and Durango with the same 0w20 specs in 2016 model year - and the 2018 came from his not realizing the Wrangler didn't get the PUG until 2018 model year with the JL. The JK still used the gen 1 engine.

The "clearances" as far as bearings (main and rod) didn't change, however, the journal size and width did. Has anyone checked the side clearances?
Viscosity doesn't lubricate. The better modern oils don't lose viscosity as easily or quickly as some of the other modern oils. Base oil and additive package (but especially the base oil) help control that. The fact that some of us come through oil analysis without a problematic loss of viscosity helps show that, but also - tests by real oil scientists have proven that to be a fact. And some engines sheer oil to death while others are easier on it.
Maybe it's one reason the PUG has a very different timing chain design compared to the gen 1?
(or perhaps that was for noise - the 4.0 used a roller while the 258 made in the same year used the standard link chain)


I have nothing against the color purple (other than Whoopie G.) - I used Blue Velvet in my first car. Man, that was a beautiful oil. Must have been ok - that car went 220,000 and the engine was NEVER opened.

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