Power Sliding Rear Window - It's possible!

[Timoleon]

I do miss the "disappearing" rear window on my 2018 Tundra. That's all I miss other than the 5.7 liter motor.......

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[MeiMei]

Great idea. I wonder if it’s possible to use the factory hard top, run it to a factory aux switch, make it a bit faster and detachable for taking the top off.

 

[MeiMei]

I would like to add this and use an aux button. I’m surprised nobody sells a kit. Some companies even have power window kids for Jeeps without power windows. One would think this would be easy to configure for a small, light window.

 

[Gatorized]

I would like to add this and use an aux button. I’m surprised nobody sells a kit. Some companies even have power window kids for Jeeps without power windows. One would think this would be easy to configure for a small, light window.

The new Tacoma has the power slide rear window - works slick!
but slides towards the passenger, opposite the JTs.

 

[John K]

I tried the Actuonix actuator but it failed with very little use also got hit from Fed Ex for $90 tariff after receiving it. Called Actuonix and asked why they didn’t tell me about the tariff when I ordered it. We then had a circular conversation where they just said it was due to tariffs and I kept asking I know but why don’t you tell US customers while ordering. Anyway out $200 but Upside 47 gave me good proof of concept. The following idea cost me about $50-$60 dollars all in. I also tried a window motor etc but there is so little room behind the seat I couldn’t. Make it fit plus it’s complicated getting it not to move too far and attaching the track etc. I used an actuator off of Amazon it was $32 and fast enough opens window in about 5 seconds. It’s much stronger than necessary. I used some steel stock to attach it to the truck with two of the Torx bolts that hold the top on. Whole thing isn’t permanent and can be removed turning truck back to stock. Mines a little cumbersome and not as attractive as others but there just isn’t much room behind the seats in this area. I purchased the 10” actuator they sell a 12” but I was afraid it may try opening too far causing a problem pulling before hitting its stop. Attached are some photos and video. As far as holding the latch opening. I drilled a small hole for a sheet metal screw screwed it in and it pulls the latch open. That too can be removed returning the latch to operating properly. Biggest issue is attaching actuator rod to window the rubber square is good for a couple screws but you need to go beyond that and attach to the window. I used 3m tape and heavy duty plastic Velcro to take up space. Everything regarding attaching to the window is on a different plane so it takes some patience getting a good connection to the window. This actuator is very strong and a little big but fits behind the seat ok I don’t see it failing though as it’s not breaking a sweat opening that little window.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Great idea. I wonder if it’s possible to use the factory hard top, run it to a factory aux switch, make it a bit faster and detachable for taking the top off.

Yes, but you'd need either two limit switches (SPDT) or an encoder, plus the linear actuator. The encoder would be much cleaner (and often available built-in to the actuator). You'd also need a small microcontroller to allow for a SPST switch (the factory AUX switch) to allow it to open when "ON" then close when "OFF". The encoder will "sense" when the window is fully closed vs open, and also will allow you to get the window fully open without causing damage to the window/etc, by being able to set the end points of open vs closed...even if the actuator has a longer range of motion than your window can open (unless you want it to be partially opened like the video above).

Guess it's time for a poll about this missing "feature"...

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