Rock Hard 4x4 - rusting skid bolts, very disappointed in customer service

[ericw.]

2 yrs.

Also installed their aluminum front bumper. Pricey, but it offsets some of the weight of adding a winch.

Good info, thank you.

I like their rear bumper but the front stubby bumpers don't have a recessed winch mounting platform. I want to keep as much of the grille open to airflow as possible and I prefer the stubby bumpers.

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[Stan H]

Here is the diameter difference in the bolts. I believe this, with the added force of a heavy wheel tire combo, different geometry than stock with the lift kit, and paper thin track bar mount material caused the issue. Since switching to the full shank, and plating my track bar mount I have had zero issues even when wheeling hard. Relying completely on clamp force is adequate the oem design its not if your actually going to push your rig.

Why not buy a fully threaded bolt in the bigger size

 

[SoCal Gunner]

Good info, thank you.

I like their rear bumper but the front stubby bumpers don't have a recessed winch mounting platform. I want to keep as much of the grille open to airflow as possible and I prefer the stubby bumpers.

I hear ya. I went with the mid-width that has the recessed winch mounting.
Share some pics if you pull the trigger!

 

[Zachattack50]

Why not buy a fully threaded bolt in the bigger size

That would be a very odd size full thread bolt. With the Grimm kit I was able to plate and reel the holes to an exact nominal size. It's working very well.

 

[Stan H]

That would be a very odd size full thread bolt. With the Grimm kit I was able to plate and reel the holes to an exact nominal size. It's working very well.

How did you plate them ? Did you buy something pre-made?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How did you plate them ? Did you buy something pre-made?

Good question. It takes some effort to do QUALITY plating.........

 

[Zachattack50]

Simple 3/16 plate, I will have some pictures after Saturday as my rock jock high steer kit and knuckles came in today, along with an apex steering boost kit. So Saturday will be busy.

 

[Zachattack50]

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Simple 3/16 plate, I will have some pictures after Saturday as my rock jock high steer kit and knuckles came in today, along with an apex steering boost kit. So Saturday will be busy.

Made it sound like you actually plated something.

 

[Zachattack50]

No, not in like a plating like zinc or anodized. Literally made a thicker plate for more surface area of the bolt shank, and reemed the hole to the proper clearance, then welded it to my track bar mount. No more shifty shift under heavy side loads.

 

[GladLad]

Any recent buyers to report if RH4x4 has updated their hardware?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Any recent buyers to report if RH4x4 has updated their hardware?

I’ve had mine since 2022, and just swapped the bolts for zinc flake.

 

[GladLad]

I’ve had mine since 2022, and just swapped the bolts for zinc flake.

Smart, I don't want rusty bolts so would swap if needed. I just don't want to buy what I don't need, nor wait if I will need.

And now that I see @Pliny paid $100 before shipping in 2024 for new bolts for the lca skids, that may change what skids I buy in the first place. I'm not sure if that covered bolts for the shock mount skids.

RH seem to be the only ones with a full kit (front, rear, shock), so it may still be the cheapest even after bolts. I'll have to check on compatibility with AEV mojave lift and possible geo brackets, as the future may include those.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Smart, I don't want rusty bolts so would swap if needed. I just don't want to buy what I don't need, nor wait if I will need.

And now that I see @Pliny paid $100 before shipping in 2024 for new bolts for the lca skids, that may change what skids I buy in the first place. I'm not sure if that covered bolts for the shock mount skids.

RH seem to be the only ones with a full kit (front, rear, shock), so it may still be the cheapest even after bolts. I'll have to check on compatibility with AEV mojave lift and possible geo brackets, as the future may include those.

My exclusive source is belmetric.com. They sell automotive grade bolts in any hardness, head style, and finish you want. Great prices and fast shipping.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Fully threaded = tap bolt. that's the technical name but no one uses it.
Full thread bolts are for applications that require more grip strength.
the force is more evenly spread over the length of the bolt and it's used where more grip strength is needed.
I know Jeep people do the opposite, but.............. there's a reason the factory does what it does and it's not "money" in that case, it's engineering.



From a bolt company -

Why choose a fully threaded bolt? If you’re most interested in grip strength and less interested in alignment and shear strength, a fully threaded bolt is going to be your best option. Once mounted, a full thread bolt spreads pressure along its entire length, with the largest holding pressure placed on the head where it meets the material it fastens to.

Often used in the automobile industry to design vehicle frames, full thread solutions distribute the mounting pressure of a car’s panels across the length of the entire bolt thanks to the full threading. Where grip strength is more critical compared to alignment or shear strength, full threads are your go-to.


Grip strength is what holds things together, clamping force. But do whatever............


(don't use that 190 lb/ft people keep using on the LCAs - that's not tight enough - factory specs are tighter than that)

I'd argue with things like LCAs and track bars alignment and sheer strength are more important than clamping strength. The known issue with track bars on JLs and JTs is a glaring example. There's just too much of a gap between the bolts and the holes/bushings. It's common to upgrade to 9/16" bolts and on both our JLUR and JT they fit with no drilling. 9/16" is .2875mm larger than the 14mm factory hardware.

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