RV Towing

[TennesseeNancy]

The Rubicon with an automatic 8 speed transmission with the 4.10 gears is rated to tow 7,000 pounds. The manual transmission is rated at 4,500 pounds. That's according to the Tow Rating Guide that RV Dealerships use to determine what peoples trucks can tow.

The general rule is buy an RV that is 1,000 pounds below your max. SO, your RV should weigh less than 6,000 pounds. IF you want to be conservative go 1,500 pounds below. I would only do that if you plan on traveling in the mountains a lot.

You definitely need a weight distribution kit and a power tongue jack on the RV. It will make a big difference in the stability of your tow vehicle and the RV. You will also need to add a brake controller to the RV.

Have fun out there.

Thank you for that information! So if the TT weighs less than 6000 with the tanks full you are saying we would be okay?

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[MrKnowitall]

The trailer you've selected is a nice combination of features and weight for a midsize truck. The payload capacity of the Rubicon trim is certainly something to keep an eye on, but it should be sufficient. Using the full GVW of the trailer isn't necessarily a realistic assessment, at least not for highway/distance. For 2 people, 1000lb of luggage, bikes, chairs, food, etc should be plenty. That would bring you up to 5600lb Trailer weight, and around 600lb tongue weight. You're still in spec on payload.
Things I would consider: Tandem axle trailers are more stable than single axle units. If you go down in trailer size a little, you wind up in the single 5000lb axle category. Those trailers weigh only a little less, have smaller tanks, and bob around much worse.
The Rubicon has softer springs than some other trims, especially the MaxTow. You could always swap in MT rear springs. This will not technically increase your payload, but it will make the truck behave better at full load.

 

[TennesseeNancy]

The trailer you've selected is a nice combination of features and weight for a midsize truck. The payload capacity of the Rubicon trim is certainly something to keep an eye on, but it should be sufficient. Using the full GVW of the trailer isn't necessarily a realistic assessment, at least not for highway/distance. For 2 people, 1000lb of luggage, bikes, chairs, food, etc should be plenty. That would bring you up to 5600lb Trailer weight, and around 600lb tongue weight. You're still in spec on payload.
Things I would consider: Tandem axle trailers are more stable than single axle units. If you go down in trailer size a little, you wind up in the single 5000lb axle category. Those trailers weigh only a little less, have smaller tanks, and bob around much worse.
The Rubicon has softer springs than some other trims, especially the MaxTow. You could always swap in MT rear springs. This will not technically increase your payload, but it will make the truck behave better at full load.

Thank you! I have wondered about the difference a single axle would make. And you are correct. I do not think I have seen one under 5000 that had 4 wheels.

 

[Gren71]

https://www.hitchrv.com/product/new...erokee-wolf-pup-black-label-18tobl-1274769-29

Here’s what I have. Pulls great with the jtmt, so it would pull great with a rubi. Well under weight ratings and payload. Like others have said it bounces a bit with the single axle but nothing to worry about.

in a addition to a wdh id suggest sumo spring rear bump stops and air bags. The combination of the two makes the ride feel like there’s nothing behind the JT. It’s unbelievable the difference the two additions made.


WDH i use

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA94-00-1000.html

Sumo spring rear bump stops

https://www.supersprings.com/shop/ssr-407-40/

Air lift bags

https://www.truckspring.com/products/Air-Lift-1000-Air-Spring-Kit-For-Coil-Springs-Rear-Axle__AIL60830.aspx?pviD=2226746&msclkid=8f756285b2c3126201660209917e91a6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=a 2021_2_3 8_33&utm_term=4583245519769940&utm_content=a&ppcsclkid=8f756285b2c3126201660209917e91a6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=a 2021_2_3 8_33&utm_term=4583245519769940&utm_content=a&ppcstrkid=1717121153&ppcsu=xhg7f5djqkazerawe

sits perfectly and rides like a dream with the stuff I linked above.

 

[Summitsearcher]

Here is my set up. My Geo Pro 12RK,

1300# but no potty. I carry a Luggable Loo. They do make a lightweight with a bathroom called a 15TB.

 

[TennesseeNancy]

https://www.hitchrv.com/product/new...erokee-wolf-pup-black-label-18tobl-1274769-29

Here’s what I have. Pulls great with the jtmt, so it would pull great with a rubi. Well under weight ratings and payload. Like others have said it bounces a bit with the single axle but nothing to worry about.

in a addition to a wdh id suggest sumo spring rear bump stops and air bags. The combination of the two makes the ride feel like there’s nothing behind the JT. It’s unbelievable the difference the two additions made.


WDH i use

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA94-00-1000.html

Sumo spring rear bump stops

https://www.supersprings.com/shop/ssr-407-40/

Air lift bags

https://www.truckspring.com/products/Air-Lift-1000-Air-Spring-Kit-For-Coil-Springs-Rear-Axle__AIL60830.aspx?pviD=2226746&msclkid=8f756285b2c3126201660209917e91a6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=a 2021_2_3 8_33&utm_term=4583245519769940&utm_content=a&ppcsclkid=8f756285b2c3126201660209917e91a6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=a 2021_2_3 8_33&utm_term=4583245519769940&utm_content=a&ppcstrkid=1717121153&ppcsu=xhg7f5djqkazerawe

sits perfectly and rides like a dream with the stuff I linked above.

That RV is very nice! It would also match our Jeep. Thank you for the info and the links!

 

[TennesseeNancy]

Here is my set up. My Geo Pro 12RK,

1300# but no potty. I carry a Luggable Loo. They do make a lightweight with a bathroom called a 15TB.

That is very cool! I think it might be a little too much like roughing it for me though. I am a bit of a princess. Lol

 

[TennesseePA]

Check out the Micro Minnie from Winnebago. Grand Design travel trailers are also part of the Winnebago family. Micro Minnie has several that are light enough to tow with the Gladiator and are sitting on a tandem axle. Trying to convince Mrs. TennesseePA that we need one badly.

 

[TennesseeNancy]

Check out the Micro Minnie from Winnebago. Grand Design travel trailers are also part of the Winnebago family. Micro Minnie has several that are light enough to tow with the Gladiator and are sitting on a tandem axle. Trying to convince Mrs. TennesseePA that we need one badly.

Thank you! We definitely will check them out. I hope you convince the Mrs.

 

[TennesseePA]

Thank you! We definitely will check them out. I hope you convince the Mrs.

The one I am wanting is the 2306BHS. GVWR IS 6000 lbs but it runs on 2 4000 lb axles.
Convincing my better half is easier said than done since I’m also trying to sell her on the virtues of the new Ford Bronco.

 

[MrKnowitall]

The one I am wanting is the 2306BHS. GVWR IS 6000 lbs but it runs on 2 4000 lb axles.
Convincing my better half is easier said than done since I’m also trying to sell her on the virtues of the new Ford Bronco.

The problem for me with most of the R-pods and micro minnies is the short bed. If that’s at all a consideration, check out the NoBo 19.3. Has double bunks and a full queen murphy bed.

 

[kltk1]

I went through this painful exercise when we decided to get back into RV life not long after I purchased a new truck. RAM 1500 with 3.6 Pentastar V6 (Same engine as your JLR). I didn't want to take a bath on trading in a new truck so I was determined to make what I had work. As for setup, fortunately, I got the tow package and 3.55 gearset which allows for 7400lbs of towing capacity. The problem you're going to face isn't tow capacity, it's the lack of available GVWR/GCWR when loaded. As has been mentioned, you're going to run out of GVWR well before you run out of towing capacity. And, sadly, most RV salespeople will ask you what the towing capacity is of your tow vehicle. If you tell them 7000lbs, they'll try to sell you a trailer that weighs 7000lbs and tell you that you'll be fine, only find yourself wishing you had a bigger tow vehicle. In the end, we bought a travel trailer that weighs 3800lbs dry and never had a problem towing it. I towed another travel trailer about 1000 miles last fall that weighed 5100lbs and my truck handled it fine. However, there was a noticeable difference in how often the engine would run at high RPM to handle the additional weight. After that experiment, my comfort level settled on bumping up to about 4500lbs when we get a new trailer but no more. I want to leave room for long uphill stretches, the occasions where we bring the grandkids or my motorcycle along while pulling the trailer.

The folks here would know far better than me, if I recall correctly the towing capacity of the Gladiator is 4500lbs if you don't get the max tow package. Max tow package bumps that up to 7600lbs by moving the wheels out one inch on each side and changing the axle ratios. There are probably a few other things I'm missing but those are the big ones.

You're doing the right thing by reaching out and asking before laying down money. Good luck in whichever direction you decide to go. In the end, you'll be glad you got into the RV lifestyle.

 

[Jaxmax]

The Micro minnies from Winnebago are really nice this is a 1706FB, seven foot wide, dry bath, large two door refrigerator, no slides dry weight under 2800lbs., hitch weight 330lbs. I have towed boats and campers for years current camper is s 19’ Prowler tandem 3400 pounds dry weight and we want to downsize to a minnie, no matter what you get check out Thorn Engineering( member here) for tow mirror adaptors and get a set of Rampage mirrors.
Nancey really think what you want, I won’t tow anything over 4500 dry weight with my Mojave. We go to kayak fishing tournaments and have had four campers over the years, we sleep in our camper ,cook and sometimes eat in it, do you really need a big wide camper that will stress your husband and truck or get something like the picture and have an enjoyable experiance with minimal issues, and same end result.
That is not my camper but was a repo at a place I drive by was sold before I even called but it is the model we are thinging about......Jack

 

[berb]

Thank you for that information! So if the TT weighs less than 6000 with the tanks full you are saying we would be okay?

You should be as long as you don’t load up your camper and truck bed with 1,000 pounds of stuff.

 

[12BNNT]

I also have a JTR automatic and towed multiple times last year after buying it. As mentioned several times, there’s four main numbers to look at for trailer calculations.
tow capacity (JTR=7000lbs, which pretty much takes into account your gross combined weight rating number minus your vehicle weight) hitch capacity (700lbs) cargo capacity (1245 on mine/see pic below) and trailer frontal area. (Sq ft / JT is listed at 60 sq ft I believe)

what I’m towing right now is a cargo camper conversion that’s 7x16 and 7’ tall so the frontal area is 7x7 although it is a v-nose.

as mentioned above, tongue weight and passengers and anything else you put in the truck counts toward that payload so in my case I add about 400 for me and the wife, 100 for the dogs, 50-60 for the weight distribution hitch and 600 tongue weight and end up at 1150 or so. Not much room for luggage or anything else. But.... we put all the gear and luggage in the trailer. My cargo camper w/two 3500 lb axels scaled 4200 on the axles and 600 on the tongue disconnected from the truck so when we load up to go, we load the totes of dry food, gear and luggage over the trailers axles to keep the tongue around 600 and had no problem at all.

what you’ll have to watch when buying any premade camper like the Grand Design you mentioned is they always put a huge cargo area in the nose and a lot of people load that full without thinking about how much tongue weight that adds (which counts towards your payload numbers.)

I’ve towed a single axle without WD and towed this tandem axle trailer ONCE without WD. Above 55 the slightest breeze or buffeting from other vehicles makes for a nervous drive from the trailer sway. A good WD hitch with sway control makes a ton of difference no matter what your towing! It spreads the tongue weight across the front and rear axles of the truck so you not squatting in the rear and puts some of that weight to the trailer axles as well AS LONG AS ITS SET UP RIGHT!! I have an E2 roundbar WDH and had to play with the adjustments a few times to get it set right. Once I had it set up right and the trailer brake load and sensitivity dialed in, we traveled from Missouri to Yellowstone and back at the 70mph speed limit, and the trailer never swayed, wiggled or got of line at all (even when a semi pulled out from the entrance ramp to the middle lane right in front of me causing me to have to lock the trailer brakes) Just Make sure to read the directions that come with it and set it right. I’ve seen too many people pulling campers that are not level, with trucks that are nose up swaying down the road at 65 mph and thats scary to see knowing they are a hairs breath away from losing it and possibly killing themselves or someone else.

We have been looking at premade campers ourselves but there’s more to consider than which one has the nicest floor plan or amenities. Take your time and crunch all the numbers before you commit to make sure you’ll be able enjoy taking that camper on all the trips you want to take.

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