Travel Trailer Debate- Experienced Opinions Wanted

[aj8544]

Spent a bit of time adjusting the wd hitch. Dealership had installed it, I decided to go through it after discovering some of the bolts were finger tight at best. Glad I made it home with it.

That being said after taking measurements and raising the hitch ball a couple inches it now sits much more level. Added 2 washers to the hitch head as the dealership only had 3 installed (despite the hitch manual stating to start at 4 or 6). As you can see it’s still slightly nose down, which I am good with. 1 1/2 inch squat on the rear of truck and 1/2inch rise on the front (about 1/3 of the rise that happens with trailer on and no wd hitch). The hitch has 800lb bars which the dealer had recommended. I’m wondering if 1000lb bars might work a bit better given the soft suspension of the Rubicon, but I’m comfortable with it for now.

First towing impression is that it is improved dramatically. No issues with sway or control in general despite a windy day here. I could feel the weight distribution immediately in steering weight and transfer of bumps etc... Power is ok up to 55mph, even alright climbing the steep grades near my home. Highway power is certainly lacking. Again super hilly terrain here and 65mph in 5th gear is the norm unless going downhill. Trans temp of 210 was the highest I saw pulling a long highway grade. I do plan to head back to the scales once the trailer is more fully loaded (about halfway there currently).

I’m now confident this setup is going to work just fine with the JT. I’m willing to take it slow on the highway as a tradeoff to all the benefits of the JT that no other truck can match. My family absolutely loves the camper after spending a few nights in it at home. We are anxiously awaiting our first real trip in a month or so. No buyer’s remorse so far!

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[Overland-2021]

I took a trip to Maine from CT last weekend.
Should have posted here...
Posted my results and recommendations here:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...with-your-eco-diesel.38774/page-2#post-714739

Other than the unbelievable fuel mileage the trip went as expected.
Can't over express the need to have as much safety equipment as you can get, calculate all your weights, set everything up correctly and drive easy. I was at about 90% capacity and cousin't be happier with the performance of such a small truck.

Safe travels folks

 

[aj8544]

Update: I can’t get the weights right fully loaded! But does it matter?

After taking several camping trips in 2 vehicles we have decided it’s just not very practical for my wife to drive separately with our 2/ soon to be 3 children, particularly on longer trips. We also have the camper fully sorted with everything we need etc…

After a few trips I felt the trailer was still squatting the Jeep too much, even with weight distribution properly adjusted. To compensate I’ve added a set of air lift bags to the rear. I carefully readjusted the weight distribution hitch after adding the bags to make sure I wasnt negating the hitch’s effects, sway control in particular. I now have about 1 inch of squat in the rear and 1/4 inch rise in the front of the truck when fully loaded, which I think is perfect. Ive found 17lbs of air in the bags provides the best ride with this setup. After our last trip this past weekend that was only 2 1/2 hours I am very happy with the ride quality and handling/stability. Engine power remains a struggle, but manually shifting on the highway does wonders for fuel economy and staying out of the exhausting high rpms.

So the problem is on the way home I hit a CAT scale to see where we ended up. Here are the results: Steer axle 2860 Rear axle 3680 Trailer axles 5280 (total of 11,820). This puts me nearly 300lbs over on payload (GVWR is 6250), and very close to the rear axle weight rating of 3750. For reference the weights for the truck with just myself in it were Steer axle 2780 and rear axle 2700. Factoring in my wife and kids at 240lbs Im at about 13.4% tongue weight on the camper, which is loaded with around 850lbs of gear and food etc…

I dont see any way I can reduce the weight on the truck. The trailer is already carefully loaded, not carrying any water, and I’ve even moved the tools I had in the truck bed to the rear storage of the camper, so my bed is empty other than my onboard arb and a few molle accessories.

So the question is how big of a deal is it being 300lbs over gvwr? I know I can never change the door jamb sticker and legal capacities but in practical terms did adding the airbags boost my payload up near a max tow? I know the easy answer is get a bigger truck, but I do not want to do that unless I am really being unsafe/ beating my JT to death.

 

[eaglerugby04]

Update: I can’t get the weights right fully loaded! But does it matter?

After taking several camping trips in 2 vehicles we have decided it’s just not very practical for my wife to drive separately with our 2/ soon to be 3 children, particularly on longer trips. We also have the camper fully sorted with everything we need etc…

After a few trips I felt the trailer was still squatting the Jeep too much, even with weight distribution properly adjusted. To compensate I’ve added a set of air lift bags to the rear. I carefully readjusted the weight distribution hitch after adding the bags to make sure I wasnt negating the hitch’s effects, sway control in particular. I now have about 1 inch of squat in the rear and 1/4 inch rise in the front of the truck when fully loaded, which I think is perfect. Ive found 17lbs of air in the bags provides the best ride with this setup. After our last trip this past weekend that was only 2 1/2 hours I am very happy with the ride quality and handling/stability. Engine power remains a struggle, but manually shifting on the highway does wonders for fuel economy and staying out of the exhausting high rpms.

So the problem is on the way home I hit a CAT scale to see where we ended up. Here are the results: Steer axle 2860 Rear axle 3680 Trailer axles 5280 (total of 11,820). This puts me nearly 300lbs over on payload (GVWR is 6250), and very close to the rear axle weight rating of 3750. For reference the weights for the truck with just myself in it were Steer axle 2780 and rear axle 2700. Factoring in my wife and kids at 240lbs Im at about 13.4% tongue weight on the camper, which is loaded with around 850lbs of gear and food etc…

I dont see any way I can reduce the weight on the truck. The trailer is already carefully loaded, not carrying any water, and I’ve even moved the tools I had in the truck bed to the rear storage of the camper, so my bed is empty other than my onboard arb and a few molle accessories.

So the question is how big of a deal is it being 300lbs over gvwr? I know I can never change the door jamb sticker and legal capacities but in practical terms did adding the airbags boost my payload up near a max tow? I know the easy answer is get a bigger truck, but I do not want to do that unless I am really being unsafe/ beating my JT to death.

Which airbags did you end up going with on here? My heavy trailer is doing great, but honestly I can tell I need to firm up the springs.

 

[aj8544]

Which airbags did you end up going with on here? My heavy trailer is doing great, but honestly I can tell I need to firm up the springs.

Airlift 1000 kit. Very easy install, work great so far.

 

[Overland-2021]

Update: I can’t get the weights right fully loaded! But does it matter?

After taking several camping trips in 2 vehicles we have decided it’s just not very practical for my wife to drive separately with our 2/ soon to be 3 children, particularly on longer trips. We also have the camper fully sorted with everything we need etc…

After a few trips I felt the trailer was still squatting the Jeep too much, even with weight distribution properly adjusted. To compensate I’ve added a set of air lift bags to the rear. I carefully readjusted the weight distribution hitch after adding the bags to make sure I wasnt negating the hitch’s effects, sway control in particular. I now have about 1 inch of squat in the rear and 1/4 inch rise in the front of the truck when fully loaded, which I think is perfect. Ive found 17lbs of air in the bags provides the best ride with this setup. After our last trip this past weekend that was only 2 1/2 hours I am very happy with the ride quality and handling/stability. Engine power remains a struggle, but manually shifting on the highway does wonders for fuel economy and staying out of the exhausting high rpms.

So the problem is on the way home I hit a CAT scale to see where we ended up. Here are the results: Steer axle 2860 Rear axle 3680 Trailer axles 5280 (total of 11,820). This puts me nearly 300lbs over on payload (GVWR is 6250), and very close to the rear axle weight rating of 3750. For reference the weights for the truck with just myself in it were Steer axle 2780 and rear axle 2700. Factoring in my wife and kids at 240lbs Im at about 13.4% tongue weight on the camper, which is loaded with around 850lbs of gear and food etc…

I dont see any way I can reduce the weight on the truck. The trailer is already carefully loaded, not carrying any water, and I’ve even moved the tools I had in the truck bed to the rear storage of the camper, so my bed is empty other than my onboard arb and a few molle accessories.

So the question is how big of a deal is it being 300lbs over gvwr? I know I can never change the door jamb sticker and legal capacities but in practical terms did adding the airbags boost my payload up near a max tow? I know the easy answer is get a bigger truck, but I do not want to do that unless I am really being unsafe/ beating my JT to death.

Hi Adam,
Looks like you did what you can to distribute the weight around and the stability of the ride is the payoff - nice job.
I'm not an engineer so I cant speak to what this rig CAN do - just that going over the maximum rating opens you up to risk that (IMO) is just not worth it. You can get away with overloading on occasion provided the conditions are cooler and slower, but I would not bring my family along. You put your family and others at risk AND your insurance company will tell you to pound sand if you are found over weight - even just 5%.
I know 300 lbs is a lot to loose but since you asked - I say loose it. Getting the weight down is your only option with this rig.

 

[aj8544]

Hi Adam,
Looks like you did what you can to distribute the weight around and the stability of the ride is the payoff - nice job.
I'm not an engineer so I cant speak to what this rig CAN do - just that going over the maximum rating opens you up to risk that (IMO) is just not worth it. You can get away with overloading on occasion provided the conditions are cooler and slower, but I would not bring my family along. You put your family and others at risk AND your insurance company will tell you to pound sand if you are found over weight - even just 5%.
I know 300 lbs is a lot to loose but since you asked - I say loose it. Getting the weight down is your only option with this rig.

I hear you on safety and insurance liability. Honestly I hate that it handles so well the way it is set up currently- doesnt do much to convince me it’s actually overloaded. Ive towed various trailers for years with other trucks- all 1/2 and 3/4 ton. None have felt more confident and stable than the gladiator, in fact I was least impressed with my Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi.

I know long term this isnt a practical setup- there is no way I can carry fresh water or a generator, kayaks/canoe etc… and most likely not 5 people comfortably. My problem is trying to balance daily driver practicality with the payload and capacity I need once in a while. An hd truck would be perfect those 30 days per year Im towing, but miserable the rest of the time (been there done that).

 

[OrangeTJ]

There is a lot here and I confess that I haven't read all of it, so this may be redundant. Having done the TT thing where I bought one that was right at my tow vehicle's limits and then deciding to buy a bigger truck to properly town the thing, I would strongly advocate for buying something that is well within the ratings of the vehicle, not at the limit. The sales people at the RV place will always try to sell you the biggest (and often most expensive) one they can convince you that you'll be able to tow. Don't listen to them; they do NOT have your best interests in mind. On the lot, the biggest and most luxurious trailer is often the most appealing. When out camping, if you're anything like us, you won't really spend most of your time inside the thing unless you get unlucky with weather or bugs. Because of that, all of the fancy niceties don't really add up to that much more camping enjoyment. What matters, in my opinion, is comfortable beds, good insulation, reliable subsystems, and capacity for water, waste, and equipment.

I don't find "camping" at a trailer park with a bunch of other trailers and RVs all around me to be all that fun. So for me that means leaving my house with the trailer filled with everything it needs to have a good several days to a week "off the grid" somewhere and that doesn't require that I have ready access to a dump station. Thus, I would always recommend picking a trailer that has the biggest fresh, grey and black water tanks you can find so you don't need to rely on water & dump hookups. I would also suggest having two good sized propane tanks, at least two (but preferably four) batteries, and plan on toting a generator (I recommend a quiet one from Yamaha or Honda) and extra water - you can never have too much water when camping. Also consider that you're going to fill the thing up with food, beverages, pots, pans, plates, silverware, folding chairs, blankets, cleaning supplies, games, clothes, toiletries, etc.. It adds up in weight.

All of this is to say, pick a trailer lighter than you think you really need to and don't let the salesperson convince you that "you'll be fine" towing right at the limit - it isn't fun.

 

[Jaxmax]

I did read every post, and you are at the max, lose some weight other then family, lighter chairs , couple less pots, whatever. Also why not try and adjust the WDH (which is also payload) a bit more to level trailer and jeep and get more weight on front axle of jeep, would be quick run over the scale and see, that should put more weight on trailer….Jack

 

[aj8544]

I did read every post, and you are at the max, lose some weight other then family, lighter chairs , couple less pots, whatever. Also why not try and adjust the WDH (which is also payload) a bit more to level trailer and jeep and get more weight on front axle of jeep, would be quick run over the scale and see, that should put more weight on trailer….Jack

I may explore this further. I’ve adjusted the hitch several times to get where I am, which is level. However that is with the help of the airbags. The hitch has 800lb bars on it (rv dealer spec’d) but I am wondering if they are not heavy enough. I am adjusted enough that I dont think I could go any further and still be able to get the bars on when hitching up- I am nearly lifting the rear tires of the truck with the tongue jack as it is. Heavier bars might be worth a shot. I cant believe I continue to add so much tongue weight the way I am loading the camper with heavier items at the rear storage and the fact that the fridge and pantry, wardrobe etc… are over the rear axle. Im at nearly 14% tongue weight.

 

[Jaxmax]

Different setup, but the travel trailer I am looking to get is under 3,000 dry and 300 tongue weight, I got a Blue Ox WDH from a guy with 1500 bars. I called Blue Ox and the girl that picked up said you should always stay below the weight of the bars by a small margin, as on the Blue Ox hitches the bend in the bar is what makes the sway control work, so dealer had used 550 lb bars for $50. I think you are still ok with 800 lb bars but call the hitch company and ask. You bought a bigger heavier camper then I would have, but you have been good on getting it to work and are close, and it tows well….Jack

 

[aj8544]

Different setup, but the travel trailer I am looking to get is under 3,000 dry and 300 tongue weight, I got a Blue Ox WDH from a guy with 1500 bars. I called Blue Ox and the girl that picked up said you should always stay below the weight of the bars by a small margin, as on the Blue Ox hitches the bend in the bar is what makes the sway control work, so dealer had used 550 lb bars for $50. I think you are still ok with 800 lb bars but call the hitch company and ask. You bought a bigger heavier camper then I would have, but you have been good on getting it to work and are close, and it tows well….Jack

Yea I completely knew it was going to be pushing it buying the camper we did. However, with soon to be 3 kids my wife and I felt this was the smallest we could go that was worth getting. Considered models with no slides that were much lighter, but that extra space is priceless with young kids. After several trips I’m 100% confident we bought the perfect camper. It feels so much larger inside than a 22ft box should.

Honestly I think the main issue is the way the axles are set up on the camper. They are a standard tandem, not wide spaced, and are in the rear half of the large slideout. Dry weight was only 5120, but with almost 700lbs of dry tongue weight- much higher dry tongue weight than most campers in that weight range. Im not at all unhappy with how it tows and if I were like most ppl and never weighed it I probably wouldnt think it was an issue.

 

[Jaxmax]

Well, moving the battery, if sealed, to rear compartment would take 50 plus pounds off front and put it on other side of the fulcrum of your axles, perhaps will drop hitch weight 60-70 pounds. Quick check take the battery off front and set it on rear on scale but don’t tow that way as brakes won’t have emergency power. Wiring would not be that big a deal as it is not that large. Another few pounds are the propane tanks getting smaller ones or aluminum ones.
I towed a 16’ Sunline camper with my 1982 Scrambler and had two 11 pound tanks off front instead of two twentys.
next the big black decorative propane tank cover has to be 7-10 pounds.
Battery, propane tanks , tank cover all stuff weighing a lot right at your hitch.
You are driving an ugly Jeep Propane tanks look cool on Jeeps plus you can easily see your regulator and transfer indicator, I bet you can keep a couple pots and pans now. Just keep enough hitch weight like 10% at least, now go get the bathroom scale take the stuff off camper and check the weight of it all, you will be amazed !……Jack

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

I don’t know man. All this travel trailer discussion really makes me wonder if it’s even remotely worth the hassle, family or not. Between members on the forum here and my parents, traveling with a TT really sounds more like job than a vacation.

I say bring a big ass tent with the appropriate camping gear wherever you’re going. Book hotels/AirBNBs for the most part and when you and your family are up to it, rough it out in the tent like a few Boy Scouts. That way, whoever is driving doesn’t have to worry about the 2 ton+ hunk of glass fiber, metal, and propane behind you at 65 mph.

I know I simplified something more complex but I think it’s worth a try to travel without the TT. Also my parents have F-250 and still hate dealing with the TT. It could all be personal preference though, idk.

 

[Josh00333]

Few options as noted move the battery. Go with an Anderson’s wdh they are 40-50# lighter than a standard hitch.

But honestly if you’re under awr front and rear I probably wouldn’t bother.

Payload is a totally made up number by jeep, you have it set up properly and added airbags. If she handles well go drive.

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