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Waiting for the tow truck.. My 2023 Gladiator Mojave has all of 3500 original mikes. We take a weekend getewayand around 250 mi the engine warning li

Stan H

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Sorry to hear your mishap episode with your jeep. I got rid of mine after shitellanis won't owe up to their shitty workmanship and customer service.

Don't waste money, let jeep stealerships take care of the problem under warranty.
Good luck, shitellanis is well known to weasel out excuses to not repair their problems!

I won't keep a vehicle that left my family and I stranded.
Well, Heck if I did that I would have never had any vehicle.
I've had lots of different types . All of them can and will breakdown from time to time.
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Jeeperjamie

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Next question. I have an AES Certified mechanic that I have come to trust nearby. Considering some of the negative forum comments towards trusting just about anything in the dealership care, should I be instead getting a preauthorization from the dealer to take it to someone else?
Don't listen to the haters, there are good dealerships around. Get the codes and get informed a little about the situation. I've been dealing with the same jeep dealership in my area for over 20 years and have never had any issues. I've owned at least 8 different jeep products and the same owner has a BMW dealership that has serviced all 7 of my BMWs I've owned. Never an issue. Just find one you trust.
 

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If it's not in the TSB, or covered, they won't change them unless their testing shows they are out of range. And you can't insist - unless they do it as a good-will gesture, because they won't get reimbursed for parts found to be in range or good.



If it was the same symptoms as my 22, there is a TSB for the flash, but a force CCDIFF relearn will do it as well.
And you can actually look at that if you have JSCAN or AlfaOBD - they'll show not learned for the values.
I believe you can even force the relearn - I'd have to look at JSCAN's abilities for that.

If the OP was driving it when it happened, it's not the same thing. The thing the TSB hits on is during a hot start, and then the misfire disappears after a short time. It won't happen when driving along or after a cold start.




GPEC5 connectors are on the top of the module.
GPEC2A are on the side.
You really have to go through some nasty stuff in certain ways.............
I power wash my engine bay every 2nd or 3rd time I'm at the car wash.
All it takes is some dielectric grease to keep water from abuse out of the connectors.

PCM-GPEC-compare.png


GPEC2A connectors right behind the hood switches - on the engine side of the module with a NA market Jeep

1715552617120-ri.png



GPEC5 connectors clear up on top of the module - deep water, some nasty stuff, to get those soaked ->

1715552784775-49.png


With all of the bracing and brackets and framework and other stuff - not sure how you'd get those wet - but I suppose it happens.................

20221022_113415_HDR.jpg
Mine was 100% while driving, it developed a misfire. I was 3 miles from my dealership so I dropped it off. It had 1700ish miles, they told me it's was a software issue, got it back the next day, no charge. Obviously I don't know what the OP's issue is, just posting mine
 

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And the award for most useless posts goes to...this guy!!!

Sorry to hear your mishap episode with your jeep. I got rid of mine after shitellanis won't owe up to their shitty workmanship and customer service.

Don't waste money, let jeep stealerships take care of the problem under warranty.
Good luck, shitellanis is well known to weasel out excuses to not repair their problems!

I won't keep a vehicle that left my family and I stranded.
Bad luck for you. Most new cars I purchased have no issues. Only shitellanis products have issues.
 

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Charles 236

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As a career dealership technician (retired but still very much dabbles) I experienced some "pre-diagnosed" by a chosen specialist several times. Some techs took it as a slap in the face but not me. I found it quite humorous when my correct diagnosis to actually repair the vehicle turned out to be different than the specialist that was so trusted by the vehicle owner. Made my day!

I am sure that you know what I mean!
I too am a dealership technician, but only semi-retired (about a year yet before I become fully retired). I have had many encounters with "self diagnosed", "independent shop diagnosed" and my favorite, "internet diagnosed" problem vehicles. I won't claim to be perfect at diagnosis, but I will say that many times others will "diagnose" a problem by replacing parts. When they fail to fix the vehicle, they then send it to the dealership.

Like any business, there are good and bad technicians in both dealerships and independent shops. Vehicles aren't the simple devices they were when I started working on them. For example, back then, a wiring diagram for everything under the hood was a page in the service manual. Now, there are hundreds of pages of wiring diagrams for engine systems. Most other systems are more complex now as well. So it takes years to get the experience and training to be a good technician.

For anyone who doesn't want to have the dealership work on their vehicle, that's fine with me. I know some people have had bad experiences with dealerships, and that is unfortunate. But unfortunately it does take dealership level resources and training to solve some problems on modern vehicles.
 

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Like any business, there are good and bad technicians in both dealerships and independent shops. Vehicles aren't the simple devices they were when I started working on them. For example, back then, a wiring diagram for everything under the hood was a page in the service manual. Now, there are hundreds of pages of wiring diagrams for engine systems. Most other systems are more complex now as well. So it takes years to get the experience and training to be a good technician.
I'd love to see some "technicians" do as I did and merge a 1994 engine with all of the electronics, controls, PCM, PDC and other fun stuff into a 1982 car and make it work together. It took going through page after page of the 1994 TSM, finding out what each pin in the PCM connectors did, and then how to make it work in my car, stripping out what wasn't needed from the ZJ while keeping what was necessary, even revamping things so that a 1982 turn signal stalk with the cruise control switches could control the cruise control parts of the 94 PCM and use the Jeeps system in my car. I even routed AC control from my dash switches through the PCM using the 94 Jeep compressor in my 82 car.

It does take years and a lot of training and I'd say - experience is right at the top, to get a good tech. Some are naturals, some - no amount of training is going to help.

I still have he heavy steel lawn mower engine test table my high school auto shop instructor made for me as part of a bet I won........... he had trouble with his lawn mower engine, yeah, literally. I told him I'd have it running in 30 minutes. He said no way.
I did. So he built me a nice test table. I was lucky - it came naturally.
out of our college class of 30, some of them real hot-shots, they swore they already knew all they needed to know........ 18 graduated.
 

Charles 236

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I'd love to see some "technicians" do as I did and merge a 1994 engine with all of the electronics, controls, PCM, PDC and other fun stuff into a 1982 car and make it work together. It took going through page after page of the 1994 TSM, finding out what each pin in the PCM connectors did, and then how to make it work in my car, stripping out what wasn't needed from the ZJ while keeping what was necessary, even revamping things so that a 1982 turn signal stalk with the cruise control switches could control the cruise control parts of the 94 PCM and use the Jeeps system in my car. I even routed AC control from my dash switches through the PCM using the 94 Jeep compressor in my 82 car.

It does take years and a lot of training and I'd say - experience is right at the top, to get a good tech. Some are naturals, some - no amount of training is going to help.

I still have he heavy steel lawn mower engine test table my high school auto shop instructor made for me as part of a bet I won........... he had trouble with his lawn mower engine, yeah, literally. I told him I'd have it running in 30 minutes. He said no way.
I did. So he built me a nice test table. I was lucky - it came naturally.
out of our college class of 30, some of them real hot-shots, they swore they already knew all they needed to know........ 18 graduated.
I don't really think of a conversion like you did to your Eagle as something a technician in a dealership would generally be doing, at least in a dealership shop. There is re-engineering involved in an engine and PCM swap of that nature, and it is beyond most tech's abilities. I have a tech in the shop who wants to go into a big engine swap in his truck (completely different engine family, transmission, engine control system and interface with interior electronics), but I don't encourage him to start on it, because I know he is not ready to tackle such a project. Maybe in a few years, but not now.
 

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I don't really think of a conversion like you did to your Eagle as something a technician in a dealership would generally be doing, at least in a dealership shop. There is re-engineering involved in an engine and PCM swap of that nature, and it is beyond most tech's abilities. I have a tech in the shop who wants to go into a big engine swap in his truck (completely different engine family, transmission, engine control system and interface with interior electronics), but I don't encourage him to start on it, because I know he is not ready to tackle such a project. Maybe in a few years, but not now.
True - but you have to understand what does what, what parts control other parts, and read diagrams and schematics.
Conversions, no, but I guess my point is - they don't have understanding of the basics. If the code reader doesn't guide them, if it's not one some laminated troubleshooting chart, they are lost.
True troubleshooting is a totally lost art to way too many.
Read a book, pass a test, use a scanner or code reader, that's about it.
if something stops working - do they know how to track down the problem?
Some of the stuff i see posted that supposedly techs - or even 'foremen" or service managers have said or suggested makes me wonder about those under them.
 

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Why are you upset when a jeep owner voiced the truth facts that jeep products sucks???!

Are you suffering brand interior illness?
You might want to check the mirror my friend. You're the one who joined the forum for the express reason of trying to shit-talk Jeep after you got rid of yours...
 

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You might want to check the mirror my friend. You're the one who joined the forum for the express reason of trying to shit-talk Jeep after you got rid of yours...
You are talking to the wall. The Ban Hammer hit a nail that was sticking up.
 

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Based upon my experience with 3 new jeeps, and never having a problem with any of them, i declare Stellantis is the very best automobile company in the world and given that I had many problems with the 2 Toyotas I have owned, it is the worst car company in the world. My data and conclusions are iron clad and everyone should make car purchasing decisions based on my findings.
 

Lost1wing

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I've had/have several different brands. The worst I ever had was the Saturn. Misfires! The first one was just fine. The second one (sw2) spent most of it's time at the dealer. 6k later being the new wagon, I was able to sell it outright for what I paid for it. I fully disclosed the I just had it at the dealer for a misfire code.

My Renault Alliance was another piece of work. I was much younger when I had it, so I'm guessing it was more of my inexperience than anything else. It had a vacuum leak and would not idle.

The Jeeps I have owned, all have been pretty good. The Gladiator has the potential of being one of the better ones, it only has 52k on it. Only time will tell.

Never had a major issue with my 6 Fords, all 250k + miles.

Chevrolet? One grenaded transmission at 90k, one computer meltdown and one waterpump. All different models and all under 100k. I have a Duramax now, it's only issue has been emissions related crap.
 

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Based upon my experience with 3 new jeeps, and never having a problem with any of them, i declare Stellantis is the very best automobile company in the world and given that I had many problems with the 2 Toyotas I have owned, it is the worst car company in the world. My data and conclusions are iron clad and everyone should make car purchasing decisions based on my findings.
Thank you for that. I now feel very confident that if I trade at some point, I'll be getting the best that money can buy.

I've had/have several different brands. The worst I ever had was the Saturn. Misfires! The first one was just fine. The second one (sw2) spent most of it's time at the dealer. 6k later being the new wagon, I was able to sell it outright for what I paid for it. I fully disclosed the I just had it at the dealer for a misfire code.

My Renault Alliance was another piece of work. I was much younger when I had it, so I'm guessing it was more of my inexperience than anything else. It had a vacuum leak and would not idle.

The Jeeps I have owned, all have been pretty good. The Gladiator has the potential of being one of the better ones, it only has 52k on it. Only time will tell.

Never had a major issue with my 6 Fords, all 250k + miles.

Chevrolet? One grenaded transmission at 90k, one computer meltdown and one waterpump. All different models and all under 100k. I have a Duramax now, it's only issue has been emissions related crap.
I've had mostly good luck with anything I've bought.
My first Jeep brand vehicle was the Comanche. The RENIX system had it's burps and farts - rough idle among them although honestly, mine idled pretty well - better than the carbureted engines I had just come from. It did lose a water pump while under warranty, then on the way home up I35 one afternoon, I saw the temperature shooting up, pulled over to find the new water pump had let loose, the fan hit the upper hose and sliced it and the belt was toast. I took my time, short runs, stop and cool it, another short run, and so on, got it back. Dealer took full responsibility for tightening the belt too tight and wiping out the water pump. Is that what happened? Doesn't matter since they fixed it and it was perfect, 0 issues after that.
I've had Chevy trucks, Ford trucks, Jeep trucks. Each has quirks, but nothing to bother complaining about. Maybe I'm just lucky? The only bad luck was my 95 F250 - the automatic front hubs let loose at the worst possible time - I was out of state for work, my wife needed to use the truck - and it wouldn't move. It was winter, our driveway required 4 wheel drive to get up and out and that danged hub let loose. I fixed it with big Warn manual hubs. That's when I found out I didn't have just a F250 - I had the heavy-duty front axle and brakes - and it took some different locking hubs.
Then at about 80,000 miles it developed a highway shimmy - pretty bad, not DW, but annoying and tiring on the hands to drive at highway speeds.
$2,000 worth of parts (every single bushing, including spring bushings, every wear part, tie rods, you name it, if it was a bushing or wear part, it got it new - still no joy. Well, at 16 years and 80,000 miles, I traded it for my Silverado. ZERO issues with it. Not a single thing wrong, ever, the whole time I owned it (8 years)
So based on that, go out and buy a Chevy truck - they are perfect, no leaks, no wind noise, just a high quality truck. Engine and transmissions were great.

For us, jeep issues have been really minor, maybe cosmetic, except the transmission that was replaced last fall. That was a ZF issue since they made it in Germany (although I saw on a youtube video they are made in Austria)
 

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Waiting for a tow. I have only 3500 miles on my 2023 Mojave, and we took a weekend trip. At 250 mi the engine warning light starts flashing. It started to run rough, then the light went solid on! Anyone else?
Do you have an update?
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