What can a Mojave on 35s NOT do?

[GladLad]

I've been spending weeks reading to decide on a Gladiator purchase, but sometimes you just want to converse. Leaning towards a Mojave left stock or put on 35s to slightly raise and fill it out a bit more. Other options are to lift/re-wheel/35s a max tow or Overland, but this is mostly a Mojave thread.

I live in suburban SE Michigan, so don't have need for 37s on my daily driver. I would like to take it off-road and overlanding with some local regularity, and use it as an excuse to take longer trips out west too. More likely to hit pot holes, trails and dunes than rocks locally, but certainly want to be ready for courses/trips within reason. Won't have the locale to develop skill for the really hard stuff.

I also don't have a garage, driveway, many tools, etc. so I won't be able to wrench all my own upgrades and will keep things mostly stock mechanically. Changing gears, adding front locker, etc. not currently interested in. I'll be getting tow package, and 6k tow capacity is plenty.

Not all Qs are important, just some thoughts that have popped in my head or fun to discuss.

1. Open question, what can a non-lifted Mojave on 35s NOT do for non-hardcore wheeling?
2. Do '23 Mojaves still creak in the cold, or not all users have this problem?
3. Shock service would probably be fine well beyond 50k miles, but is there any other special maintenance for Mojave?
4. I'd like to Fluid Film (or equivalent) the entire undercarriage for long term rust protection from salty Michigan roads. It's pretty much sprayed wildly all over, gets on everything. Would this cause any problems with Mojave's suspension or seals?
5. How does its suspension/ride change under an overlanding load compared to a non-Mojave suspension with a lift? It's got less payload than a max tow, but I imagine a lift changes that for the max tow as well, even if not on the sticker. Unfortunately, I have no way to test drive a lifted max tow.
6. Can't fully choose based on hypothetical vacations, but I assume it's well capable for trips to Moab, White Rim Road, etc. Even I have to avoid certain routes based on skill or lack of lift.
7. Can sway bars be disconnected on 35s and still have no rubbing without a lift?
8. Important, will it make me look cool?
9. If not, when will the Mojito or other fun colors be available again so it will make me look cool.

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[XJADDICTION]

They can’t use the front locker… ?

 

[CJ5w4wdSmokyOnMyTail]

I've been spending weeks reading to decide on a Gladiator purchase, but sometimes you just want to converse. Leaning towards a Mojave left stock or put on 35s to slightly raise and fill it out a bit more. Other options are to lift/re-wheel/35s a max tow or Overland, but this is mostly a Mojave thread.

I live in suburban SE Michigan, so don't have need for 37s on my daily driver. I would like to take it off-road and overlanding with some local regularity, and use it as an excuse to take longer trips out west too. More likely to hit pot holes, trails and dunes than rocks locally, but certainly want to be ready for courses/trips within reason. Won't have the locale to develop skill for the really hard stuff.

I also don't have a garage, driveway, many tools, etc. so I won't be able to wrench all my own upgrades and will keep things mostly stock mechanically. Changing gears, adding front locker, etc. not currently interested in. I'll be getting tow package, and 6k tow capacity is plenty.

Not all Qs are important, just some thoughts that have popped in my head or fun to discuss.

1. Open question, what can a non-lifted Mojave on 35s NOT do for non-hardcore wheeling?
2. Do '23 Mojaves still creak in the cold, or not all users have this problem?
3. Shock service would probably be fine well beyond 50k miles, but is there any other special maintenance for Mojave?
4. I'd like to Fluid Film (or equivalent) the entire undercarriage for long term rust protection from salty Michigan roads. It's pretty much sprayed wildly all over, gets on everything. Would this cause any problems with Mojave's suspension or seals?
5. How does its suspension/ride change under an overlanding load compared to a non-Mojave suspension with a lift? It's got less payload than a max tow, but I imagine a lift changes that for the max tow as well, even if not on the sticker. Unfortunately, I have no way to test drive a lifted max tow.
6. Can't fully choose based on hypothetical vacations, but I assume it's well capable for trips to Moab, White Rim Road, etc. Even I have to avoid certain routes based on skill or lack of lift.
7. Can sway bars be disconnected on 35s and still have no rubbing without a lift?
8. Important, will it make me look cool?
9. If not, when will the Mojito or other fun colors be available again so it will make me look cool.

I've been spending weeks reading to decide on a Gladiator purchase, but sometimes you just want to converse. Leaning towards a Mojave left stock or put on 35s to slightly raise and fill it out a bit more. Other options are to lift/re-wheel/35s a max tow or Overland, but this is mostly a Mojave thread.

I live in suburban SE Michigan, so don't have need for 37s on my daily driver. I would like to take it off-road and overlanding with some local regularity, and use it as an excuse to take longer trips out west too. More likely to hit pot holes, trails and dunes than rocks locally, but certainly want to be ready for courses/trips within reason. Won't have the locale to develop skill for the really hard stuff.

I also don't have a garage, driveway, many tools, etc. so I won't be able to wrench all my own upgrades and will keep things mostly stock mechanically. Changing gears, adding front locker, etc. not currently interested in. I'll be getting tow package, and 6k tow capacity is plenty.

Not all Qs are important, just some thoughts that have popped in my head or fun to discuss.

1. Open question, what can a non-lifted Mojave on 35s NOT do for non-hardcore wheeling?
2. Do '23 Mojaves still creak in the cold, or not all users have this problem?
3. Shock service would probably be fine well beyond 50k miles, but is there any other special maintenance for Mojave?
4. I'd like to Fluid Film (or equivalent) the entire undercarriage for long term rust protection from salty Michigan roads. It's pretty much sprayed wildly all over, gets on everything. Would this cause any problems with Mojave's suspension or seals?
5. How does its suspension/ride change under an overlanding load compared to a non-Mojave suspension with a lift? It's got less payload than a max tow, but I imagine a lift changes that for the max tow as well, even if not on the sticker. Unfortunately, I have no way to test drive a lifted max tow.
6. Can't fully choose based on hypothetical vacations, but I assume it's well capable for trips to Moab, White Rim Road, etc. Even I have to avoid certain routes based on skill or lack of lift.
7. Can sway bars be disconnected on 35s and still have no rubbing without a lift?
8. Important, will it make me look cool?
9. If not, when will the Mojito or other fun colors be available again so it will make me look cool.

I live in SE MI, own a Mojave that I switched to 35" tires. Last summer, I drove it on a 3,500 mile trip on the Trans-America Trail (almost exclusively dirt roads and trails all the way) to Moab while pulling a small, overland trailer. The Jeep did miraculously well.

In conclusion, there is absolutely nothing, NOTHING, that a Mojave on 35s can't do and look cool while doing it!!!

 

[Oilburner]

Can’t get 25 mpg

 

[Sprinkler-Fitter]

Can’t get 25 mpg

So on the stock 33’s it will?

 

[HooliganActual]

5. How does its suspension/ride change under an overlanding load compared to a non-Mojave suspension with a lift? It's got less payload than a max tow, but I imagine a lift changes that for the max tow as well, even if not on the sticker. Unfortunately, I have no way to test drive a lifted max tow.

This will depend on what your overlanding load is and where you take it. My stock Rubicon lift really didn't do well with a "full" overlanding load (Canopy, RTT, 270 awning, fridge, etc.). I mean it carried it, and it sagged the rear as you would expect. It "worked" on the highway but as soon as you try to take it down anything but a well maintained fire road, it was noticeable. At a minimum you might need to change out the rear springs for ones actually designed to carry the weight in an offroading condition.

 

[Andy29847]

A Mohave on stock wheels will do incredible things.

I have been on and lead many 4 wheeler rides. There are always a couple of guys in stock vehicles. They have always gotten through. When I say stock, I mean a base wrangler, or an FJ. Once there was a 2004 Ford Explorer. The driver of the Explorer had to make a couple of banzai runs, but he got through.

I think the Red Rock club in Moab has the best rating system. They make specific suggestions about lift kits and tires sizes by trail. When reading the trail ratings, I believe that with a Mohave or a Rubicon, you can consider that you vehicle came with a 2" lift. I have been on trails rated as high as 5 with my Gladiator. We got through without much drama. Well, except for the steep sidehill/downhill section that made me squeal.

Red Rock 4-Wheelers, Inc. - (rr4w.com)

 

[HooliganActual]

This will depend on what your overlanding load is and where you take it. My stock Rubicon lift really didn't do well with a "full" overlanding load (Canopy, RTT, 270 awning, fridge, etc.). I mean it carried it, and it sagged the rear as you would expect. It "worked" on the highway but as soon as you try to take it down anything but a well maintained fire road, it was noticeable. At a minimum you might need to change out the rear springs for ones actually designed to carry the weight in an offroading condition.

@GladLad

Here's an example of before and after. In fairness, the after is with 2.5" lift and 37's BUT I also had rear springs made for the weight I planned to carry. You can see the difference in the stance and the way the weight is being carried. The after picture has an even heavier load than the first...

 

[bleda2002]

Anything requiring a front locker, so basically loose climbing situations or low traction moments. Here in Florida there is no way I'd give up my front locker as it's saved me at least a dozen times from pulling line in sand/mud. This climb for example would be a no chance:

The Mojave ranks somewhere between a lifted Tacoma TRD pro and a Rubicon gladiator for capability, in all but high speed desert situations where it is only behind a raptor/braptor. That said, vehicles are much more capable than people realize and you can flog a lot of cars up trails you'd think there wouldn't be a chance if you don't mind a chance of damage.

 

[Stormtroopin]

Third week after purchase, I was in 4 hi locked rear and the ice was pretty thick but Nothing has stopped mine and I only have BFG 35s. Front locker would help in rocks but I wouldn’t take a truck to play In The rocks hence why I went with a Mojave.

 

[Gvsukids]

4. I'd like to Fluid Film (or equivalent) the entire undercarriage for long term rust protection from salty Michigan roads. It's pretty much sprayed wildly all over, gets on everything.

Or monthly pass at the car wash, as I have in West Michigan.

7. Can sway bars be disconnected on 35s and still have no rubbing without a lift?

Yep.

9. If not, when will the Mojito or other fun colors be available again so it will make me look cool.

Possibly. Jeep brings them back every now and then.
Follow-up, https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/official-mojave-thread-lets-talk-mojaves.32680/

 

[GladLad]

They can’t use the front locker… ?

Can’t get 25 mpg

You know, I thought about preemptively mentioning some smart ass impossibilities or "Rubicon superiority"... but I'm already too wordy and wanted the fun comments too.

 

[GladLad]

“1. Open question, what can a non-lifted Mojave on 35s NOT do for non-hardcore wheeling?”

The only thing mine has NOT been able to do is disappoint me. I do a lot of off-roading and it’s still stock. I’ve written multiple trip reports here:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/forums/trip-journals-reports.99/

Some defensive accessories that have been a big help are lower bed rock rails and a hitch skid plate.

Fully stock on 33s, even more of a testament. Some nice trips and views you've got there. It's good to be close to proper deserts for the Mojave to roam.

 

[GladLad]

I live in SE MI, own a Mojave that I switched to 35" tires. Last summer, I drove it on a 3,500 mile trip on the Trans-America Trail (almost exclusively dirt roads and trails all the way) to Moab while pulling a small, overland trailer. The Jeep did miraculously well.

In conclusion, there is absolutely nothing, NOTHING, that a Mojave on 35s can't do and look cool while doing it!!!

Hey fellow SE MIer. Never heard of that trail, so that's pretty cool that you can overland all the way to Moab. I don't much about Moab, but was it a good one for your ride or have to skip a lot with the trailer? Not that you can't unhook for courses.

Was it worse than potholes?

 

[GladLad]

@GladLad

Here's an example of before and after. In fairness, the after is with 2.5" lift and 37's BUT I also had rear springs made for the weight I planned to carry. You can see the difference in the stance and the way the weight is being carried. The after picture has an even heavier load than the first...

Thanks. I don't have any specific overland rig plans yet. Will start with tent, maybe rtt if use frequency warrants it, or back to trailer if trips not too impassable.

Do you ride with full gear at all times, or when de-weighted you have extra stiff shocks daily driving? If it is a DD.

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