Wheel offset to get optimal tire poke?

[Jrhz06]

-38 with 37x12.5 (17*9 wheels)on 3” Lifted Rubi.

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[Lunentucker]

It's baffling to me how people can't do this math on their own.
Everything works from center line of the rim and the mounting surface.
If your current rims are +37.17 mm offset - stock Mojave, then for every half inch of rim width you add, you would need a 1/4 inch (6.35mm) of negative offset to stay even on the poke with the same width tires.
Then you go from there. 1" wider rims plus 1" wider tires is 2 inches, or about 50 mm (25 mm per side of center line.)
So +37-25=+12mm
Now wide tires on wider rims will relax a bit, like your gut after the all you can eat buffet. So toss in a few mm for that as well and you're nearing a zero offset to stay even on the inward edge and keep minimal poke.
If you WANT more poke that's fine, but understand that you're moving the center of the stresses imparted to your suspension and steering components farther out, and giving the weight of the vehicle more leverage on them.

 

[Vtur]

It's baffling to me how people can't do this math on their own.
Everything works from center line of the rim and the mounting surface.
If your current rims are +37.17 mm offset - stock Mojave, then for every half inch of rim width you add, you would need a 1/4 inch (6.35mm) of negative offset to stay even on the poke with the same width tires.
Then you go from there. 1" wider rims plus 1" wider tires is 2 inches, or about 50 mm (25 mm per side of center line.)
So +37-25=+12mm
Now wide tires on wider rims will relax a bit, like your gut after the all you can eat buffet. So toss in a few mm for that as well and you're nearing a zero offset to stay even on the inward edge and keep minimal poke.
If you WANT more poke that's fine, but understand that you're moving the center of the stresses imparted to your suspension and steering components farther out, and giving the weight of the vehicle more leverage on them.

Agreed. For ideal driving comfort. 2"-3" poke is fine as long the new wheels is wider to compensate. Technically, have the tire/wheels closes to the inner as possible without rubbing.

 

[HappyGladiator]

I have the Method Double standards with a 0 offset, 8 1/2 x17 with 315s BFG KO2s. On the Rubicon they do poke out some due to the wide Rubicon front axle but at full flex with wheel turned all the way I have no rub. I could possibly bring them in with a +10-20 offset but it's reallynot worth it. That would only bring them in less than an inch. I am not a fan of poke but with 34+ inch tires you got to get them out some or things will rub off road. With the factory wheels at +44 offset I would have to use a spacer that would take them close to a 0 offset. The factory wheels are only 7 1/2 wide so that keeps them in some also.

 

[Jrhz06]

-6 with 35x12.5 on 17*8.5 on stock Mojave.

 

[Vtur]

ok, perfect! That looks about how mine is now. So I should probably stick with a similar spec wheel as that! Thanks!

You won't get that kind of polk with that wheel specs above, caused your Mojave has the wider axles. You'll need +15 to obtain that same polk.

 

[BuzzBee]

It's baffling to me how people can't do this math on their own.
Everything works from center line of the rim and the mounting surface.
If your current rims are +37.17 mm offset - stock Mojave, then for every half inch of rim width you add, you would need a 1/4 inch (6.35mm) of negative offset to stay even on the poke with the same width tires.
Then you go from there. 1" wider rims plus 1" wider tires is 2 inches, or about 50 mm (25 mm per side of center line.)
So +37-25=+12mm
Now wide tires on wider rims will relax a bit, like your gut after the all you can eat buffet. So toss in a few mm for that as well and you're nearing a zero offset to stay even on the inward edge and keep minimal poke.
If you WANT more poke that's fine, but understand that you're moving the center of the stresses imparted to your suspension and steering components farther out, and giving the weight of the vehicle more leverage on them.

Finally some math.
One of the stresses added to the system is caused by scrub radius on the front axle. Forgetting to deal with this causes a lot of stress on steering components. So while some may like the look, dealing with stresses is more important IMO.
Scrub radius - Wikipedia

 

[Dougstdig]

17x9 -38 on 37 trail grappler with stock fender on Mojave. Waiting for Motobilt fenders to arrive and then off to paint. Should gain a little more poke lol.

That’s a bit much for me. Looks like almost 1/2 the tread is outside the flare. If you listen enough, you can hear the faint scream of the poly wrapped balljoints!

 

[CJ99x]

I really like the AEV wheels they are actually +25. A buddy has them on his 392 and still has some wheel poke with 37s but the wheel is supposed to tuck them up a little more. Im new to all of this but that seems confusing to me lol.
Seems like it’s a roll of the dice. Someone needs to make a calculator.

https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

 

[LCF]

That’s a bit much for me. Looks like almost 1/2 the tread is outside the flare. If you listen enough, you can hear the faint scream of the poly wrapped balljoints!

radio is too loud lol

 

[Dougstdig]

-6 with 35x12.5 on 17*8.5 on stock Mojave.

This looks good…most I’d want. 8.5” wide rim is ideal to me since it will protect the wheels while being suitable for a 12.50” wide tire.

for the other posting, below is one of the “Mopar Off-road” wheels. It’s 8.5 with a +12 offset. It’s actually +13 less than AEV wheels, which are + 25 and run both 35&37 x 12.50’s.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's baffling to me how people can't do this math on their own.
Everything works from center line of the rim and the mounting surface.
If your current rims are +37.17 mm offset - stock Mojave, then for every half inch of rim width you add, you would need a 1/4 inch (6.35mm) of negative offset to stay even on the poke with the same width tires.
Then you go from there. 1" wider rims plus 1" wider tires is 2 inches, or about 50 mm (25 mm per side of center line.)
So +37-25=+12mm
Now wide tires on wider rims will relax a bit, like your gut after the all you can eat buffet. So toss in a few mm for that as well and you're nearing a zero offset to stay even on the inward edge and keep minimal poke.
If you WANT more poke that's fine, but understand that you're moving the center of the stresses imparted to your suspension and steering components farther out, and giving the weight of the vehicle more leverage on them.

And added risk for you-know-what.


I agree with the prior post that said thread under fender, sidewall just outside.
Fewer rock chips and damage, and easier to turn tight corners with weight on the truck. No added stress.

But, it's whatever, not my truck,.

 

[Camaroboi13]

But, it's whatever, not my truck,.

Ding ding ding we have a winner! ?

 

[Lunentucker]

Ding ding ding we have a winner! ?

It's also a forum... on the Internet. ?

 

[Florida Mojave]

-38 with 37x12.5 (17*9 wheels)on 3” Lifted Rubi.

Looks awesome! - I had to do a double take on the fake bear family back there....lol!!

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