When auto-stop-start becomes more intermittent....

[OngsterA]

Mine stops working because it sits at the Airport every Monday thru Friday, 3 weeks out of the month

Yeah looks so far the computer knows based on many sensors if stop/start is 'safe' to engage, that's a good thing. I never really trusted that before, plus the wear and tear on starter, etc. Good to keep an eye on it still. I also heard it's not good to always switch it off, but not sure for what reason.

I do manually turn it off when wheeling, you know those moments when you had to stop on a steep while trying to pick lines, certainly won't want it to shut off the motor.

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[ShadowsPapa]

At 3700 miles? Wow, hopefully just duds. I'll be replacing mine every 20-25k regardless of issues. Sounds like 30-35k is when people start getting electrical issues due to a dying aux.

Miles have nothing to do with it. Take the case of a 2018 Grand Cherokee with 13,000 miles..........
It's type of use (does it sit a lot??), environment (is there a lot of HEAT? Not just your weatherman's daily high, but under-hood temps from hard driving or towing in the mountains), or other considerations.
If well maintained, time isn't a factor, and depending on conditions, neither are miles, really. Some have gone way beyond 40K miles without battery issues. In fact, I'd suggest that higher miles means it's driven on a more regular basis, and for longer periods. That's a good thing for a battery.
If it was 3 years old with 15,000 miles, I'd be more concerned about the battery if they didn't keep a tender on it.

I got the cheaper amazon version of this and it works great. i also try to turn it on once and awhile to charge the aux battery

What's turning off ESS got to do with charging the aux battery? It's charged with the crank battery at all times you are driving the thing. They are connected in parallel. Turning off ESS does zero for the aux battery, makes no difference. The only time it could is if you don't drive the truck enough - and then the crank battery isn't getting fully charged either and will die an earlier death.
When the truck is running - engine running, both batteries are getting the same input, they are both charging.

Yeah looks so far the computer knows based on many sensors if stop/start is 'safe' to engage, that's a good thing. I never really trusted that before, plus the wear and tear on starter, etc. Good to keep an eye on it still. I also heard it's not good to always switch it off, but not sure for what reason.

There's a quick opening of the PCR which allows the PCM to do a quick check of the SoC of the aux battery when you first start the truck. Otherwise, things are based on the SoC of the crank battery if the aux passes that check.
The "wear and tear on the starter" is bs from non-engineers who read internet lore and pass it along as truth - because it gets copied and pasted in enough places.
I do starter restoration........... the hardest thing in the world on a starter is a cold start.
Legacy starters without bearings, the old direct drive starters, could go over 150,000 miles if the engine was well-kept and tuned. These starters are 10 times what the prior starters were. Far less draw, they have bearings, and commutator and brush materials that make starters of 10-20 years ago look like Fred Flintstone made them. The reduced draw means less heat and less wear on the brushes and commutators. Bearings mean less drag, they'll spin over an engine better, faster, with less power needs and hardly any wear.
These are engineered from the ground up for ESS. I have zero worries and I've been in auto electric for decades.
Make it even easier for the starter is the fact that the PCM keeps track of where the engine stopped - the exact angle and position of everything plus - which injector fired last and when, and more. That means that an ESS start takes a small fraction of the effort to go than you starting it in the parking lot or your garage each time. Your starts are a lot more wear on things than any ESS start.

And as far as "not good to always switch it off" - meh, the only loss by switching it off is, DEPENDING on how you drive and where you drive, some loss in mpg. As far as the engine - it won't care. It's made for ESS - but turning it off can't do anything bad to the engine or batteries.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah looks so far the computer knows based on many sensors if stop/start is 'safe' to engage, that's a good thing.

You should see the page of criteria that have to be met before ESS operates. It's quite a list - including the pressure you are exerting on the steering wheel, the temperature of the catalytic converters, and more.

 

[Mojave2021]

Just curious as my service start/stop system light is on right now too. Is there a way to reset the light, add the start/stop eliminator, and avoid the light from coming up again after?

I'm guessing I should have the dealer still look at it as it may be symptoms of a more significant issue.

 

[CerOf]

What's the main cause, low charge aux battery? It kicks in less lately, I'm only at 3700 miles. Recent inspection and first oil change done, no codes/issues. Is this something to worry about? I realize that electronics monitor conditions for this feature to switch on.

As it gets hot outside, start/stop will be intermittent; if you have A/C on full.

In summer, mine rarely kicks in, the whole 100+ thing has me running a/c on max.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just curious as my service start/stop system light is on right now too. Is there a way to reset the light, add the start/stop eliminator, and avoid the light from coming up again after?

I'm guessing I should have the dealer still look at it as it may be symptoms of a more significant issue.

Nothing wrong with the eliminator - but I would get it serviced first - as it could be signs of bigger issues. Then you can do whatever if you want to euthanize ESS.

 

[SargeDiesel]

ok.. many causes and issues.. My vehicle sits to much without being driven/started , so I plan to put a tender on it.

My question is.. with a completely healthy , fully charged AUX battery, how long will it stay charged and engage the ESS as designed before its charge is depleted from sitting(not being charged)?

In my situation, I see an error that the start/stop is not ready, but no reason given (unless I missed it) I drive for awhile and it will re engage eventually.

Thanks

 

[Mojave2021]

Nothing wrong with the eliminator - but I would get it serviced first - as it could be signs of bigger issues. Then you can do whatever if you want to euthanize ESS.

Agreed, thanks!

 

[reverse01134]

Mine stopped working. Purchased in Jan 2021. 13k on the odometer. I drive it to work twice a week - 50 miles round trip. I had 2 other vehicles before the Gladiator that had auto stop/start function and never had an issue that the function stops working.

 

[Kevin_D]

ok.. many causes and issues.. My vehicle sits to much without being driven/started , so I plan to put a tender on it.

My question is.. with a completely healthy , fully charged AUX battery, how long will it stay charged and engage the ESS as designed before its charge is depleted from sitting(not being charged)?

In my situation, I see an error that the start/stop is not ready, but no reason given (unless I missed it) I drive for awhile and it will re engage eventually.

Thanks

Mine sat for two months, and both batteries were dead. About an hour on the charger and the Jeep started right up.
However, the ESS showed, "Not Ready," with no given reason. I put both batteries on a float charger for 48 hours, and now everything works fine again. The only difference I noticed was the battery voltage went up about 150mV after the float charge.

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Mine sat for two months, and both batteries were dead. About an hour on the charger and the Jeep started right up.
However, the ESS showed, "Not Ready," with no given reason. I put both batteries on a float charger for 48 hours, and now everything works fine again. The only difference I noticed was the battery voltage went up about 150mV after the float charge.

Kevin

Make sure when charging - if charging the two together like in the system (in parallel) you charge through the IBS and not a blind charge. Make sure the negative charger lead is on top of the IBS.

The problem with charging both together, in parallel when they are both dead is that one will be full and the other not. It'll start, but it likely still detected a low state of charge or low voltage in one - probably the crank battery.

My aux battery on 2 amp charges in a couple o hours or so.
My crank battery on 10 amps takes several hours to complete all 3 phases.

 

[FitfulGoat]

Mine doesn't come on that often. Not sure if it's the way I brake or not? Even when it does come on, I don't find it all that bothersome.

I’m in this same boat. Mine hardly seems to function and when it does it’s barely noticeable.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Mine sat for two months, and both batteries were dead. About an hour on the charger and the Jeep started right up.
However, the ESS showed, "Not Ready," with no given reason. I put both batteries on a float charger for 48 hours, and now everything works fine again. The only difference I noticed was the battery voltage went up about 150mV after the float charge.

Kevin

ok.. so ...
1. Is the AUX battery easily accessible ?
2. I thought the alternator charges the main battery and the AUX pulled its charge from the main battery... is this not how it works ?
3. So are the main batter and the AUX battery on separate positive battery cables, being charged separately by the same alternator ?
4. Would I need two float chargers, one for the main and one for the AUX ?

* I haven't had any issues with the vehicle starting, due to a lack of charge, ONLY the ESS "NOT READY" error... so if they are separate, would I only need to put a float on the AUX battery ?

Thanks

@ShadowsPapa

 

[SargeDiesel]

Make sure when charging - if charging the two together like in the system (in parallel) you charge through the IBS and not a blind charge. Make sure the negative charger lead is on top of the IBS.

Could you please explain this to me in easy/detailed terms.

is it better to charge the batteries separately or together on a float ? My vehicle does sit, but I have never had a starting issue, only "ESS NOT READY" so would it be best to float the main battery or just the AUX ?

what is a "blind charge" and where is the "IBS"

If my concern is the AUX battery, exactly how would I connect the float/charger

Thank you

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The IBS is on the negative post of the crank battery - the main battery you see.

IBS - red arrow -

Red x - do not charge here.
Green circle - do connect negative from charger here, on top of the IBS

IBS, removed from battery for cleaning, and taking pictures LOL

IF you wanted to start clean and fresh, using this picture, this would be how you charge each battery independently - red from charger can always go to the positive post on the crank battery as shown here.
Black negative clamp from charger would go on the cable as shown to charge only the aux battery until it's fully charged, 100% or about 12.7 volts or better.
To charge only the crank battery alone to make sure that by itself it has a full charge to 100% or 12.7 volts or better, put the black clamp from the charger on the stud on top of the IBS, or on that nut, not to the negative post itself or to the IBS clamp on the negative post.

If your truck sits for more than a couple of days or so at a time, you can put a battery minder or tender, or any good AGM charger that has a maintenance or float function on without disconnecting anything.
Put the red on the main/crank battery positive and the black charger clamp on top of the IBS - like on that stud or nut or the flat part of the cable on top of the IBS (but not where the red x is)

For keeping things up while my truck sits - I leave everything connected and use an AGM capable battery tender.

My main charger actually goes through the 3 phases of charging for AGM batteries and then goes into a float phase and does periodic loading of the battery(batteries) and then tops them off again.

If you want to force the IBS to relearn, remove the black cables from the top of the IBS, remove the IBS from the negative crank battery post and let it sit 10 minutes or so (appears to vary with type and Jeep has used at least 3, maybe 4 versions)
It takes some time for it to relearn when put back together.

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