Which lift kit? SJ or RC?

[rharr]

Rock Krawler is getting a bad rep due to the bushing issues that have plagued them for quite some time.

What type of bushings are you referring too? The full flex ball joint rebuildable type or the more common rubber bushing type found commonly in a leaf spring pack?

I just got a RK 3" adventure lift with the fixed rubber bushing and if there are to be future problems I will start looking for replacement bushing now.

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[DankjeeP]

What type of bushings are you referring too? The full flex ball joint rebuildable type or the more common rubber bushing type found commonly in a leaf spring pack?

I just got a RK 3" adventure lift with the fixed rubber bushing and if there are to be future problems I will start looking for replacement bushing now.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/rock-krawler-3-x-factor-jt-system.20530/page-74

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Either of those kits could be fine with a few additional parts.

I'd rather start with the Clayton 3.5" Ride Right for the base.

 

[Panthers65]

I get the quality issue.
A lesser spring isn't as likely to break in half as it is to sag over time. A lesser control arm isn't as likely to break as the bushings are to experience premature wear. It's the little details not the catastrophic failures.

Whether the multitudes of satisfied long-term peasant brand lift owners have lasting products or they aren't as attentive to details remains to be seen. Could be either or as far as I know.

I would agree with that, kind of like shopping at Harbor Freight, if you know what to look for and how to spot quality, you can come out ahead. I've got HF tools 20+ years old and I've got some that don't make it through the first project.

I will say, after having installed kits for years, that the higher quality lifts the difference in performance is more apparent than the difference in longevity. for most brand new Jeep owners, they aren't going to be pushing the limits of their kits. I don't bash one kit or another, just different tools for different jobs. I don't think anyone would argue that a Ferrari is superior to a Civic, but if you aren't going to use the Ferrari like a Ferrari, might as well get the Civic...

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I'd rather start with the Clayton 3.5" Ride Right for the base.

I really like that their link ends are adjustable though they don't offer the range.
I would go with them but prefer to change the front lower control arms, and for whatever reason (I think it's the $100 part difference) that kit has upper fronts, which no one else sells in that configuration.

The new lift angle already "pulls" the wheel centerline back.
Adjusting lower control arms gets some of that back.
Adjusting upper control arms pulls it back further.
It stymies me that Clayton did this.

I can do an RC 3.5 with springs and shocks, source front lowers, rear uppers and rear track bar from elsewhere, (known budget brand) have fully adjustable front caster/ rear pinion angle, and front and rear centered axles for under 1500.
I'm guessing the "cost" of not having a completely adjustable kit will be under 1" less wheelbase.

 

[JRODZ]

I agree with what others have already stated, get what you need for your intended purpose. And the snobs out there. Its firmer than stock Willys, which I hoped for! I dont rock crawl, I just light off road. I dont like stock, on anything! I like to personalize my stuff, this kit works great for me. Yes you lose the factory rake, so plan on 3/4" rear spacer. Or if you gotta winch & heavy bumper in front that'll possibly help. The front springs were a lot stiffer than the rears. So I expected the rear to sag a little when towing. The spacers or bags or both will fix that. Prior to my lift my JT also squatted when towing. I only use a 2.5" drop hitch because of the weight being towed I already know that its gonna sag. First pic is stock towing the smallest mini excavator that I find for some yard work. Second pic is our 21' boat w/about 1/2 tank fuel.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Its firmer than stock Willys,

I'm definitely looking for a more responsive suspension and don't know if I should get longer gas springs over diesel for some extra cush.
I haven't found a spring or shock mfr yet that is candid about their ride characteristics so without first hand user input I'm left to guesstimate and make assumptions.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I really like that their link ends are adjustable though they don't offer the range.
I would go with them but prefer to change the front lower control arms, and for whatever reason (I think it's the $100 part difference) that kit has upper fronts, which no one else sells in that configuration.

The new lift angle already "pulls" the wheel centerline back.
Adjusting lower control arms gets some of that back.
Adjusting upper control arms pulls it back further.
It stymies me that Clayton did this.

I can do an RC 3.5 with springs and shocks, source front lowers, rear uppers and rear track bar from elsewhere, (known budget brand) have fully adjustable front caster/ rear pinion angle, and front and rear centered axles for under 1500.
I'm guessing the "cost" of not having a completely adjustable kit will be under 1" less wheelbase.

Here is Clayton's reasoning behind the uppers instead of lowers:

No problem! Adjustable uppers allow for easier and quicker adjustment to your caster angle as the distance between the center point of the axle to the upper control arms is shorter than the distance between the center point of the axle to the lower control arms. Lower control arms are best utilized to set your axle position or wheelbase, front uppers to set caster angle, and rear upper to set your pinion. Hope this helps!

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Here is Clayton's reasoning behind the uppers instead of lowers:

I followed up on their response because it still doesn't make sense.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

I followed up on their response because it still doesn't make sense.

Hello,

Here's what I wrote back on the other thread to help clear up some confusion on utilizing front upper vs lower control arms when looking to adjust caster.

"We're not so much referring to the accessibility of the control arms, rather the actual effect the adjustment of each set of arms has on your caster angle. Using the front upper arms not only requires less adjustment to properly set your caster, but it will also allow you to solely focus on adjusting your caster angle, rather than having to adjust between caster and wheelbase simultaneously like using the front lowers would. Front lower arms are much more efficient for adjusting wheelbase, so this way you are able to utilize one single set of arms for one single purpose each.

The Ride Right kit, which is the kit we sell that offers a set of front upper adjustable control arms instead of a full set, is intended for somebody who mainly is looking to use the vehicle as a daily driver. In this scenario, proper caster angle is the most important adjustment to get right as it directly affects steering and handling, whereas if somebody was looking to get a little bit more into light off-roading, utilizing a set of front lowers might be more beneficial as this is where proper wheelbase becomes more important. Overall, for somebody looking for both on and off-road use, we always recommend a complete lift kit that comes with a full set of control arms like our Overland or Premium kits, but for a daily driver or entry-level lift kit system, we feel that front upper control arms offer much more performance to our customers than lowers do.

Hopefully this helps!"

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Hello,

Here's what I wrote back on the other thread to help clear up some confusion on utilizing front upper vs lower control arms when looking to adjust caster.

"We're not so much referring to the accessibility of the control arms, rather the actual effect the adjustment of each set of arms has on your caster angle. Using the front upper arms not only requires less adjustment to properly set your caster, but it will also allow you to solely focus on adjusting your caster angle, rather than having to adjust between caster and wheelbase simultaneously like using the front lowers would. Front lower arms are much more efficient for adjusting wheelbase, so this way you are able to utilize one single set of arms for one single purpose each.

The Ride Right kit, which is the kit we sell that offers a set of front upper adjustable control arms instead of a full set, is intended for somebody who mainly is looking to use the vehicle as a daily driver. In this scenario, proper caster angle is the most important adjustment to get right as it directly affects steering and handling, whereas if somebody was looking to get a little bit more into light off-roading, utilizing a set of front lowers might be more beneficial as this is where proper wheelbase becomes more important. Overall, for somebody looking for both on and off-road use, we always recommend a complete lift kit that comes with a full set of control arms like our Overland or Premium kits, but for a daily driver or entry-level lift kit system, we feel that front upper control arms offer much more performance to our customers than lowers do.

Hopefully this helps!"

Thank you for taking the time to reply to this question.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Thank you for taking the time to reply to this question.

No problem!

 

[Lynn_F]

I started with 3.5" Skyjacker and it rode fine with N95 shocks. It retained the factory rake but I didn't like that so I added a 3/4" spacer to the front. I ended up battling DW after ~15000 miles. I'm not sure if the CA that it came with didn't provide enough caster after the spacer but I continued to struggle with DW until I got adjustable lower front CA's and extended them way out. 2 things I regretted about the lift were the amount of rake and the fact that it was called a 3.5" lift but it was based on the front springs and not the rear so it is actually comparable to the Mopar 2" lift. I would have gone with Mopar if I had known about the actual lift height to retain the warranty.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I started with 3.5" Skyjacker and it rode fine with N95 shocks. It retained the factory rake but I didn't like that so I added a 3/4" spacer to the front. I ended up battling DW after ~15000 miles. I'm not sure if the CA that it came with didn't provide enough caster after the spacer but I continued to struggle with DW until I got adjustable lower front CA's and extended them way out. 2 things I regretted about the lift were the amount of rake and the fact that it was called a 3.5" lift but it was based on the front springs and not the rear so it is actually comparable to the Mopar 2" lift. I would have gone with Mopar if I had known about the actual lift height to retain the warranty.

Skyjacker has a 4.5" lift w longer fixed front lower, and rear upper control arms, and it comes in Rubicon and non-Rubicon. I can only assume that means the Rubicon/ Launch Ed has longer springs and link ends to make up for the extra inch built into the Rubi suspension.

 

[domingjm]

I started with 3.5" Skyjacker and it rode fine with N95 shocks. It retained the factory rake but I didn't like that so I added a 3/4" spacer to the front. I ended up battling DW after ~15000 miles. I'm not sure if the CA that it came with didn't provide enough caster after the spacer but I continued to struggle with DW until I got adjustable lower front CA's and extended them way out. 2 things I regretted about the lift were the amount of rake and the fact that it was called a 3.5" lift but it was based on the front springs and not the rear so it is actually comparable to the Mopar 2" lift. I would have gone with Mopar if I had known about the actual lift height to retain the warranty.

I have a diesel Sport S also. I'm interested in the 2.5" SJ kit. What height increase did you get with the 3.5", front and rear? Has this improved your travel, presuming that you've also been suffering from poor travel and weak springs.
For the 2.5" diesel lift, SJ claims that it's a true 2.5" front, 1.5" rear, provides 2" additional travel and that the dual rate springs are 115, 165 lb/inch. Curious what your experience has been.

https://skyjacker.com/shop/jeep/gla...l-suspension-lift-system-gladiator-jt-diesel/

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