Which Lift Kit to Pick From

[Alabama Mud Machine]

i didn’t read who posted this then I saw what lift it was and knew..

Man I’m not saying anything is wrong with the EVO lift. It’s gotta be a damn fine setup. But It looses on price to pretty much everything. That’s not the same cost as the Mopar because it’s even more incomplete. You gotta add another 600 bucks to that for the Fox shocks that the Mopar lift includes. Plus the Mopar lift can actually be hard for more like 1200.

I'm pretty sure the Evo kit comes with extension brackets for your factory Rubicon shocks... Also, everyone bitches about the Fox IFP's in the Mopar kit, because they're tuned for a JL, and not a JT. And lots of people are pulling them off and selling them, or selling them at a huge loss, and buying Falcon shocks or something else. I'v even heard the Mopar 2" kit Fox IFP shocks are a downgrade over the stock Rubicon Fox shocks because the valving is all wrong. Just food for thought.

So in reality, that Mopar kit is both inferior in quality and component beefiness & strength, and in shock valving. I wouldn't call it a better deal. Just "another option".

Personally, If I'm going to build a truck, I'm going to overbuild a truck. I don't like fixing or replacing shit after I have already supposedly upgraded those parts. The Mopar 2" lift LCA's are just as weak as the stock ones, they're just 1/4" longer...Built the same design and metal, too.

Not to mention the EVO kit comes with new stainless braided brake lines... I don't see the Mopar kit coming with those. Or adjustable lower control arms. Or adjustable front & rear track bars...

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[j.o.y.ride]

i didn’t read who posted this then I saw what lift it was and knew..

Man I’m not saying anything is wrong with the EVO lift. It’s gotta be a damn fine setup. But It looses on price to pretty much everything. That’s not the same cost as the Mopar because it’s even more incomplete. You gotta add another 600 bucks to that for the Fox shocks that the Mopar lift includes. Plus the Mopar lift can actually be hard for more like 1200.

Can you get Mopar minus the shocks? I was thinking of splurging on the shocks with something like the Teraflex Falcon adjustable. Love their adjustable steering stabilizer.

 

[bastage]

I'm pretty sure the Evo kit comes with extension brackets for your factory Rubicon shocks... Also, everyone bitches about the Fox IFP's in the Mopar kit, because they're tuned for a JL, and not a JT. And lots of people are pulling them off and selling them, or selling them at a huge loss, and buying Falcon shocks or something else. I'v even heard the Mopar 2" kit Fox IFP shocks are a downgrade over the stock Rubicon Fox shocks because the valving is all wrong. Just food for thought.

So in reality, that Mopar kit is both inferior in quality and component beefiness & strength, and in shock valving. I wouldn't call it a better deal. Just "another option".

Personally, If I'm going to build a truck, I'm going to overbuild a truck. I don't like fixing or replacing shit after I have already supposedly upgraded those parts. The Mopar 2" lift LCA's are just as weak as the stock ones, they're just 1/4" longer...Built the same design and metal, too.

Not to mention the EVO kit comes with new stainless braided brake lines... I don't see the Mopar kit coming with those. Or adjustable lower control arms. Or adjustable front & rear track bars...

it’s still incomplete and a thousand dollars more with similar stocks and even more with falcon shocks.

no the Fox shocks included with the Mopar kit aren’t the best. Bang for buck however they are hard to beat.

I never once implied that it was an inferior lift. You tout it all the time though and the fact is that it’s about the most expensive you can get. It’s thousands more then Other good options once you make it complete with all arms.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

it’s still incomplete and a thousand dollars more with similar stocks and even more with falcon shocks.

no the Fox shocks included with the Mopar kit aren’t the best. Bang for buck however they are hard to beat.

I never once implied that it was an inferior lift. You tout it all the time though and the fact is that it’s about the most expensive you can get. It’s thousands more then Other good options once you make it complete with all arms.

It's 1,600... Plus $550-600 for a set of Fox IFP's from any retailer. The Mopar kit would actually cost MORE than the EVO setup would, if it had adjustable LCA's ($450), and adjustable front & rear track bars ($250x2 = $500), and stainless braided brake lines ($150), etc... You get what I'm saying? It all comes down to the same, but in the end, the Mopar kit is inferior to the aftermarket brands, be-it EVO or Clayton or MC or RK or any of the other major brands. If you think EVO is the most expensive, you haven't done much looking at lifts over the $1,500 range... Most of those brands with top-tier Fox or King shocks are in the $3,000-$4,000 range. And coil over conversion lifts are in the $4,000+ range.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I'm pretty sure the Evo kit comes with extension brackets for your factory Rubicon shocks... Also, everyone bitches about the Fox IFP's in the Mopar kit, because they're tuned for a JL, and not a JT. And lots of people are pulling them off and selling them, or selling them at a huge loss, and buying Falcon shocks or something else. I'v even heard the Mopar 2" kit Fox IFP shocks are a downgrade over the stock Rubicon Fox shocks because the valving is all wrong. Just food for thought.

So in reality, that Mopar kit is both inferior in quality and component beefiness & strength, and in shock valving. I wouldn't call it a better deal. Just "another option".

Personally, If I'm going to build a truck, I'm going to overbuild a truck. I don't like fixing or replacing shit after I have already supposedly upgraded those parts. The Mopar 2" lift LCA's are just as weak as the stock ones, they're just 1/4" longer...Built the same design and metal, too.

Not to mention the EVO kit comes with new stainless braided brake lines... I don't see the Mopar kit coming with those. Or adjustable lower control arms. Or adjustable front & rear track bars...

Ok so not trying to rock the boat bc I'm a noob just trying to learn.

What do all those adjustable parts mean to the guy who just wants to be able to do some dirt trails with 35s? What's lost if I don't do all the adjustment parts?

I've built plenty of other stuff in my time to understand that more doesn't mean better for everyone. I want to understand why I need the adjustable parts if it's a 95% pavement truck that wants to off road a little, no rock crawling. What would I truly gain?

If I went Clayton with factory shocks using an adaptor, what's better about that than a smaller lift with better shocks?

I get the clearance issue if they differ in lift, but technically speaking what's better about:

Factory lift with great shocks
Great lift with factory shocks

For the mild offroader who wants to do in town, long haul, and some off road @ destination? The off road will not BE the destination.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Ok so not trying to rock the boat bc I'm a noob just trying to learn.

What do all those adjustable parts mean to the guy who just wants to be able to do some dirt trails with 35s? What's lost if I don't do all the adjustment parts?

I've built plenty of other stuff in my time to understand that more doesn't mean better for everyone. I want to understand why I need the adjustable parts if it's a 95% haven't truck that wants to be tire off-road a little. What would I truly gain?

Other than the fact that the aftermarket parts are SIGNIFICANTLY bigger, stronger, thicker, and heavier duty than the factory parts (including the Mopar 2" lift parts), there are other advantages to them.

When you lift, you need to reset ALL the front axle geometry for your pinion angles and steering angles to be realigned back into spec. That is what all the adjustable parts are for.

Adjustable track bars re-center your axle back under the truck. When you lift a vehicle that utilizes a 5-link setup (4 control arms + 1 track bar) that runs left-to-right connecting the axle to the frame. When you lift the truck the front axle pivots on that track bar. So, what happens when you move 2 items away from each other, that are connected on opposite ends? They swing away on a pivot-point. So, when you lift your JT, the front axle gets pushed over to the driver's side more. An adjustable front track bar allows you to extend the track bar's length, pushing that axle back towards the passenger, which will allow the axle to sit completely centered under the Jeep again. Same principal for the rear axle (same 5-link style setup).

Adjustable lower control arms... When you lift your jeep, once again, things pivot apart when you push them downward away from something it's still attached to, right? Well, except this time, when you put taller springs under it, the front axle will start rocking forward and facing towards the ground, and will no longer be sitting in the proper position for the tires to steer properly left to right. Instead the tires will be pushing into the ground and creating TONS of problems and damage. So, adjustable lower control arms, allows you to extend the control arm outward, rotating the front axle back upwards into the proper position for correct steering geometry.

 

[bastage]

It's 1,600... Plus $550-600 for a set of Fox IFP's from any retailer. The Mopar kit would actually cost MORE than the EVO setup would, if it had adjustable LCA's ($450), and adjustable front & rear track bars ($250x2 = $500), and stainless braided brake lines ($150), etc... You get what I'm saying? It all comes down to the same, but in the end, the Mopar kit is inferior to the aftermarket brands, be-it EVO or Clayton or MC or RK or any of the other major brands. If you think EVO is the most expensive, you haven't done much looking at lifts over the $1,500 range... Most of those brands with top-tier Fox or King shocks are in the $3,000-$4,000 range. And coil over conversion lifts are in the $4,000+ range.

1600 + 680 for the shocks (north ridge price)
2280 and still missing the tear control arms and front uppers. That’s like 300 bucks less then the complete metalcloak game changer 3.5 kit which is actually a complete lift unlike the evo.

the Mopar Kit doesn’t need adjustable lca’s.. it’s factory engineered and includes the factory engineered lca’s. The track bars are 200 each from northridge. You grab the Mopar Kit for 1200 as it’s normally priced on amazon and add the trackbars your at 1600. Brake lines another 150 and you still a ton lower.

You wanna go all out and add the complete arms to both you can grab the evo stage 4 plus for 3043 and add the same shocks your at 3700.
Add the Clayton arms to the Mopar Kit above and your at 2750 for a damn comparable lift.
Or in either case the straight Clayton overland 2.5 with the same shocks is cheaper.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Ok I see the geometry point. But the question then is, would the 2" mild Mopar lift do anything extreme like you say or is that when you get into 3.5"+?

Because I'm not about to drop $4k on a lift and shocks and labor just to be able to run 35s and off road sometimes. I will do a basic lift myself but maybe not the adjustable stuff. I don't have the garage space to leave the truck up a day or 2 to DIY learn. I'd rather understand it and be able to fix it myself but my garage space is very limited.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

1600 + 680 for the shocks (north ridge price)
2280 and still missing the tear control arms and front uppers. That’s like 300 bucks less then the complete metalcloak game changer 3.5 kit which is actually a complete lift unlike the evo.

the Mopar Kit doesn’t need adjustable lca’s.. it’s factory engineered and includes the factory engineered lca’s. The track bars are 200 each from northridge. You grab the Mopar Kit for 1200 as it’s normally priced on amazon and add the trackbars your at 1600. Brake lines another 150 and you still a ton lower.

You wanna go all out and add the complete arms to both you can grab the evo stage 4 plus for 3043 and add the same shocks your at 3700.
Add the Clayton arms to the Mopar Kit above and your at 2750 for a damn comparable lift.
Or in either case the straight Clayton overland 2.5 with the same shocks is cheaper.

I don't need or want 3.5", I may not fit in my garage with 3.5 and 35s. Plus 35s look better on smaller lifts imo.

 

[bastage]

I don't need or want 3.5", I may not fit in my garage with 3.5 and 35s. Plus 35s look better on smaller lifts imo.

That was a response to someone else discussing price specifically.

Ok I see the geometry point. But the question then is, would the 2" mild Mopar lift do anything extreme like you say or is that when you get into 3.5"+?

Because I'm not about to drop $4k on a lift and shocks and labor just to be able to run 35s and off road sometimes. I will do a basic lift myself but maybe not the adjustable stuff. I don't have the garage space to leave the truck up a day or 2 to DIY learn. I'd rather understand it and be able to fix it myself but my garage space is very limited.

if your not beating on it then anything discussed above would do the trick

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

1600 + 680 for the shocks (north ridge price)
2280 and still missing the tear control arms and front uppers. That’s like 300 bucks less then the complete metalcloak game changer 3.5 kit which is actually a complete lift unlike the evo.

the Mopar Kit doesn’t need adjustable lca’s.. it’s factory engineered and includes the factory engineered lca’s. The track bars are 200 each from northridge. You grab the Mopar Kit for 1200 as it’s normally priced on amazon and add the trackbars your at 1600. Brake lines another 150 and you still a ton lower.

You wanna go all out and add the complete arms to both you can grab the evo stage 4 plus for 3043 and add the same shocks your at 3700.
Add the Clayton arms to the Mopar Kit above and your at 2750 for a damn comparable lift.
Or in either case the straight Clayton overland 2.5 with the same shocks is cheaper.

I can get those same shocks, but bigger (for my Ram 2500 4x4 6" lift) for $560 on Amazon for a set of 4. I'm sure you can find them cheaper than on Northridge, if you look around.

I'm going to agree to disagree. You'r nitpicking the highest prices you can to make the EVO look worse of a deal, and picking the lowest prices you can for the Mopar lift to make it look like the best deal. It's obvious you have a bias towards the Mopar lift. I'm guessing it's because you either have that kit, or, you have something against me, or EVO.

So, I'll just agree to disagree.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Ok I see the geometry point. But the question then is, would the 2" mild Mopar lift do anything extreme like you say or is that when you get into 3.5"+?

Because I'm not about to drop $4k on a lift and shocks and labor just to be able to run 35s and off road sometimes. I will do a basic lift myself but maybe not the adjustable stuff. I don't have the garage space to leave the truck up a day or 2 to DIY learn. I'd rather understand it and be able to fix it myself but my garage space is very limited.

My 2.5" spacer lift moved my front axle about 5/8" to the left. Will it hurt anything? Nah, not after a proper front end alignment, but does it stick like an itch in my brain that it's like that? Yep...

Typically above a 1.5" lift, you're going to want to have adjustable lower control arms to reset front axle geometry. It doesn't seem like much, but 1/4" to 1/5" longer arms makes a BIG difference in your front axle's steering angles and how your steering functions.

If you only want to run 35's, I'd suggest installing a Rubicon take-off suspension (F&R springs and Fox shocks), and then add a 1" spacer to the front to help alleviate some of the rake. Super cheap setup, and very functional. No need for adjustable stuff.

 

[beefcake]

I went with the Mopar lift and added a 3/4” spacer to the front as well. I held off on the track bars so I could see how the truck would react to the lift. In the end the front is shifted by about 3/4” so I bought the front adjustable track bar to fix that. The rear was dead on so no need for the rear adjustable track bar. It rides great coming from a sport with max tow suspension. I’ll post some pics once I get my 35s mounted and balanced.

 

[bastage]

I can get those same shocks, but bigger (for my Ram 2500 4x4 6" lift) for $560 on Amazon for a set of 4. I'm sure you can find them cheaper than on Northridge, if you look around.

I'm going to agree to disagree. You'r nitpicking the highest prices you can to make the EVO look worse of a deal, and picking the lowest prices you can for the Mopar lift to make it look like the best deal. It's obvious you have a bias towards the Mopar lift. I'm guessing it's because you either have that kit, or, you have something against me, or EVO.

So, I'll just agree to disagree.

Actually man you got me all wrong. I don't particularly like the mopar lift (its incomplete & Mopar doesn't manufacturer the beefed up parts to make it complete) & I do like the Evo lift. As for you I have absolutely no issue with you at all.

I also didn't cherry pick anything. Outside of the Mopar lift being cheaper on Amazon/eBay (which has become pretty common knowledge) I only used prices from Northridge4x4 which is where you originally linked. I agree that with some hard shopping those shocks should be available elsewhere cheaper, but 680 is the most common price for them (169 each). Buying the EVO arms & adding them to the stage 1 plus kit is more expensive then buying the stage 4 plus. And searching google for EVO-3061S4P (the stage 4 plus part number per EVO) Its only cheaper on one place that I can find & its some website I have never heard of that doesn't even have a picture, and its only like 60 bucks less so that wouldn't overcome the price defisit).


And you said "Here's a better quality, beefier, and stronger lift at the same cost."

From that statement I agree, agree, agree & very highly disagree.

My only point was that the EVO lift while it may be an absolutely amazing lift is more expensive then just about anything else comparable.

Before I bought the lift I did (Clayton Overland 2.5) I made a spreadsheet to compare lift's that all had good reputations or had something particularly good going for them & the Evo 2.5" was definitely on that list. Comparing apples to apples for all the major components (ie if the lift did not include all 8 control arms, both track bars, shocks, sway bar disconnects then they were added from the matching brand/product line if possible or using a quality substitute like JKS quicker disconnects or synergy track bars And Fox 2.0 shocks used for all). I didn't include the Mopar lift on this list as it was too incomplete. Ultimately the EVO 2.5' was about 600 more expensive then anything else on the list. The cheapest on the list was the Rusty's Offload Advanced kit in either 2" or 4" which even after including Rusty's crazy high shipping prices is still cheaper then anything else. If you want I can post my comparison to google docs & DM you a link.

 

[hjdca]

Actually man you got me all wrong. I don't particularly like the mopar lift (its incomplete & Mopar doesn't manufacturer the beefed up parts to make it complete) & I do like the Evo lift. As for you I have absolutely no issue with you at all.

I also didn't cherry pick anything. Outside of the Mopar lift being cheaper on Amazon/eBay (which has become pretty common knowledge) I only used prices from Northridge4x4 which is where you originally linked. I agree that with some hard shopping those shocks should be available elsewhere cheaper, but 680 is the most common price for them (169 each). Buying the EVO arms & adding them to the stage 1 plus kit is more expensive then buying the stage 4 plus. And searching google for EVO-3061S4P (the stage 4 plus part number per EVO) Its only cheaper on one place that I can find & its some website I have never heard of that doesn't even have a picture, and its only like 60 bucks less so that wouldn't overcome the price defisit).


And you said "Here's a better quality, beefier, and stronger lift at the same cost."

From that statement I agree, agree, agree & very highly disagree.

My only point was that the EVO lift while it may be an absolutely amazing lift is more expensive then just about anything else comparable.

Before I bought the lift I did (Clayton Overland 2.5) I made a spreadsheet to compare lift's that all had good reputations or had something particularly good going for them & the Evo 2.5" was definitely on that list. Comparing apples to apples for all the major components (ie if the lift did not include all 8 control arms, both track bars, shocks, sway bar disconnects then they were added from the matching brand/product line if possible or using a quality substitute like JKS quicker disconnects or synergy track bars And Fox 2.0 shocks used for all). I didn't include the Mopar lift on this list as it was too incomplete. Ultimately the EVO 2.5' was about 600 more expensive then anything else on the list. The cheapest on the list was the Rusty's Offload Advanced kit in either 2" or 4" which even after including Rusty's crazy high shipping prices is still cheaper then anything else. If you want I can post my comparison to google docs & DM you a link.

Is it true that the EVO control arms are solid all the way through - instead of hollow, like everyone else ? Is it true that they do something special to their springs to avoid sagging ? If these facts are true, it may be why they are more expensive ? I Don't know.

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