Which Lift Kit to Pick From

[bastage]

Is it true that the EVO control arms are solid all the way through - instead of hollow, like everyone else ? Is it true that they do something special to their springs to avoid sagging ? If these facts are true, it may be why they are more expensive ? Don't know.

I don't know the answer to those, but it very well may be the case. @Alabama Mud Machine knows more about them then I do.

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[hjdca]

I don't know the answer to those, but it very well may be the case. @Alabama Mud Machine knows more about them then I do.

I am also struggling with "which lift kit" to get... Clayton, EVO, Metalcloak are my short list... I still cannot even decide between 2.5" or 3.5".... I am inclined to get the 3.5" just because of the length of the Gladiator to improve off-road angles, but, I am not convinced I will go to 37s yet.

 

[bastage]

I am also struggling with "which lift kit" to get... Clayton, EVO, Metalcloak are my short list... I still cannot even decide between 2.5" or 3.5".... I am inclined to get the 3.5" just because of the length of the Gladiator to improve off-road angles.

I am cleaning up my spreadsheet & updating to current pricing & will post a link in this thread shortly.

Edit: I think I got this updated to todays info instead of what it was when I ordered. Also added links for some of the stuff where I was including parts not already priced elsewhere. If anyone see's any mistakes made or wants me to add some other lift just let me know.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Is it true that the EVO control arms are solid all the way through - instead of hollow, like everyone else ? Is it true that they do something special to their springs to avoid sagging ? If these facts are true, it may be why they are more expensive ? I Don't know.

I'm not 100% on that, but I have their 2.5" front springs, their adj. front track bar, and their Enforcer LCA's sitting in the boxes waiting to be installed... That box with just the 2 lower control arms and hardware weighs in around 25-28 lbs... So, that's very likely an accurate assessment. Hollow tubing wouldn't weight that much.

Not sure about the springs, but I will find out when I get them installed, especially since I have a steel Fab Fours front bumper, and a steel cable Warn 9.5XP on the front.

 

[bastage]

I'm not 100% on that, but I have their 2.5" front springs, their adj. front track bar, and their Enforcer LCA's sitting in the boxes waiting to be installed... That box with just the 2 lower control arms and hardware weighs in around 25-28 lbs... So, that's very likely an accurate assessment. Hollow tubing wouldn't weight that much.

Not sure about the springs, but I will find out when I get them installed, especially since I have a steel Fab Fours front bumper, and a steel cable Warn 9.5XP on the front.

The weight got me searching to compare weights on something I knew wasn't solid. Couldnt find a manufacturer weight, but I did find this "EVO MFG JL/JT Enforcer Front Lower Control Arms are made of 1.75” OD x .313 Wall DOM Tubing. "

http://evomfg.com/EVO-MFG-Products/Jeep-Gladiator-JT/suspension upgrades?product_id=368

So while not solid... Thats 5/16" wall DOM tubing so its VERY DAMN stout. To compare the Clayton Arms I have coming are 1/4" & not listed as DOM (which is still pretty damn stout) & the factory is probably only 1/8" material if that.

The Clayton lower's are listed at 29 lbs on their website, but they are square so that would account for a little extra weight vs the EVO's round. The factory ones (which I have a set of sitting on my garage floor) are 14lbs per my bathroom scale.

So to @Alabama Mud Machine's point earlier about the mopar kit being a lesser kit, the Lower Control Arms it comes with while the correct length are most likely the same construction or a slight improvement over the factory materials used. Definitely not the same quality as as the premium aftermarket brands.

I also just tried to lookup metal cloak to throw there lower control arms into this mix, but they dont list the weight. They do list as being 1.5" OD x 3/16 DOM so they would be considerably lighter then the Clayton or EVO, but much better then the Mopar.

 

[GameFabricator]

I am cleaning up my spreadsheet & updating to current pricing & will post a link in this thread shortly.

Edit: I think I got this updated to todays info instead of what it was when I ordered. Also added links for some of the stuff where I was including parts not already priced elsewhere. If anyone see's any mistakes made or wants me to add some other lift just let me know.

This is super helpful!
I just picked up a new JT Rubicon and new to the forum. Investigating many of the same lift kits. The Clayton 3.5 seems like a solid all-in-one package.

What size tires are you considering? I'm looking at 37s and also the cost of regearing to 4.88, alignment, and flashcal.

 

[bastage]

This is super helpful!
I just picked up a new JT Rubicon and new to the forum. Investigating many of the same lift kits. The Clayton 3.5 seems like a solid all-in-one package.

What size tires are you considering? I'm looking at 37s and also the cost of regearing to 4.88, alignment, and flashcal.

Well I was going to keep my suspension much more mild, but then plans changed. I already have 315/70r17 ko2's. Going to keep these till I find a hell of a deal on 37's or they wear out then go 37's. These things have such huge wheel wells to begin with not much lift is needed for 37's. Most folks also say you dont need to regear for it if you have a Rubicon or Max Tow as well since were already on 4.10's. So I dont have that planned until eLockers become available after market since I have a Max Tow. Then I will probably go to 5.13's as I would rather be geared a little too low then high as I do end up on some rather steep long roads here in the rockies.

There are several lifts that are good all around lifts I think on that list. The final 3 I had it narrowed down to were the MetalCloak Gamechanger 3.5 (and as bad as it sounds I eliminated it simply off of being a Raders fan & not wanting my truck to sport Chiefs colors with those gold arms on my Red truck), The Rusty's kit which was eliminated because the guys who answered the phone couldnt answer basic questions when I called about it, though Rusty himself discussed this with me on the Gladiator Facebook group & then the Clayton with a tossup between the 2 sizes, but ultimately picking the shorter one for highway driving & less extra stress on the front driveshaft.

 

[Romenator]

Northridge 4x4 has a few coupon codes. I have used “litebrite” In the past with success. It only works on individual parts not full kits. Got 15% off falcons and I was impressed with customer support on the phone.

 

[kelkolb]

The Mopar lift runs an average of $1,500-$1,600... Right?

Here's a better quality, beefier, and stronger lift at the same cost.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...acturing-2-5in-enforcer-lift-kit-stage-2-plus

Paid $1200 for mine

 

[kelkolb]

I'm pretty sure the Evo kit comes with extension brackets for your factory Rubicon shocks... Also, everyone bitches about the Fox IFP's in the Mopar kit, because they're tuned for a JL, and not a JT. And lots of people are pulling them off and selling them, or selling them at a huge loss, and buying Falcon shocks or something else. I'v even heard the Mopar 2" kit Fox IFP shocks are a downgrade over the stock Rubicon Fox shocks because the valving is all wrong. Just food for thought.

So in reality, that Mopar kit is both inferior in quality and component beefiness & strength, and in shock valving. I wouldn't call it a better deal. Just "another option".

Personally, If I'm going to build a truck, I'm going to overbuild a truck. I don't like fixing or replacing shit after I have already supposedly upgraded those parts. The Mopar 2" lift LCA's are just as weak as the stock ones, they're just 1/4" longer...Built the same design and metal, too.

Not to mention the EVO kit comes with new stainless braided brake lines... I don't see the Mopar kit coming with those. Or adjustable lower control arms. Or adjustable front & rear track bars...

I 100% disagree with this. I think the fox shocks that come with the Mopar kit are great. So much better than stock. I constantly read people complaining about the factory Rubicon shocks. They’re tiny compared to the ones in the Mopar kit.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Well I was going to keep my suspension much more mild, but then plans changed. I already have 315/70r17 ko2's. Going to keep these till I find a hell of a deal on 37's or they wear out then go 37's. These things have such huge wheel wells to begin with not much lift is needed for 37's. Most folks also say you dont need to regear for it if you have a Rubicon or Max Tow as well since were already on 4.10's. So I dont have that planned until eLockers become available after market since I have a Max Tow. Then I will probably go to 5.13's as I would rather be geared a little too low then high as I do end up on some rather steep long roads here in the rockies.

There are several lifts that are good all around lifts I think on that list. The final 3 I had it narrowed down to were the MetalCloak Gamechanger 3.5 (and as bad as it sounds I eliminated it simply off of being a Raders fan & not wanting my truck to sport Chiefs colors with those gold arms on my Red truck), The Rusty's kit which was eliminated because the guys who answered the phone couldnt answer basic questions when I called about it, though Rusty himself discussed this with me on the Gladiator Facebook group & then the Clayton with a tossup between the 2 sizes, but ultimately picking the shorter one for highway driving & less extra stress on the front driveshaft.

To put you back at stock performance with 37's, a 4.56 gear would get you there damn-near spot-on the money. So 4.88 is already over-gearing to get you some extra low-end performance. To me, on a mostly DD truck, 4.88 would be the most I'd go. But if you plan on hitting the trails and rock crawling every weekend, the 5.13 would probably be a better option for the extra low-end. Just my opinion.

 

[bastage]

To put you back at stock performance with 37's, a 4.56 gear would get you there damn-near spot-on the money. So 4.88 is already over-gearing to get you some extra low-end performance. To me, on a mostly DD truck, 4.88 would be the most I'd go. But if you plan on hitting the trails and rock crawling every weekend, the 5.13 would probably be a better option for the extra low-end. Just my opinion.

Your stock performance & mine are different. We have the same stock axle ratio, but my tires were smaller.

One of the roads I am on a few times a year gains 2700 feet in 7 miles. I am basically calling it my worst case scenario so I want to be able to maintain the speed limit going up it without having to downshift too awful far. If I was in other parts of the country I would probably draw the line at 4.88 as well.

 

[Romenator]

A little off topic has anyone tried the Goodyear MT-R. There on sale and i used them on my Ford raptor years ago. Worked pretty good.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I 100% disagree with this. I think the fox shocks that come with the Mopar kit are great. So much better than stock. I constantly read people complaining about the factory Rubicon shocks. They’re tiny compared to the ones in the Mopar kit.

Just because it's a 2.0 IFP shock vs. a 2.5 IFP shock doesn't mean that it's really all that inferior, especially if the valving is wrong for the JT's. I have read of MANY people complaining about the Mopar kit 2.5" IFP's having the same part number as the JL Mopar 2.5 IFP's... That means the valving should be the same. The payload and towing (and overall GVWR) of the JT vs. the JL is different, therefore if they are using the same JL shocks in the JT kit, they will be incorrectly valved for the JT.

Do some research, that's what I did, and I found several people pointing that out.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Your stock performance & mine are different. We have the same stock axle ratio, but my tires were smaller.

One of the roads I am on a few times a year gains 2700 feet in 7 miles. I am basically calling it my worst case scenario so I want to be able to maintain the speed limit going up it without having to downshift too awful far. If I was in other parts of the country I would probably draw the line at 4.88 as well.

That shouldn't matter, because you can change your gear ratio and tire size in your EVIC (ECM) with the Tazer JL Mini, so it should all equal out the same, because the engines are the same and all the 8-speed auto transmissions all have the same ratios.

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