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WHICH MODEL SHOULD I TRADE FOR???

TheRealElGis

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I would like to do several mods to a newer model gladiator and could use some insight.

currently owning a gladiator overland since they came out. Want to trade in for a newer model and start from scratch. Mine is currently a 6 speed manual, and would like to stick to the manual. This seems to give up some features or weeds out some of the models.

wanted to put a 5-6 inch lift and 37-40 inch tires as well as several overlanding gear. also would like tow capabilities and ability to run more energy to external sources like a computer etc.

I've been reluctant to do any major mods to the current one i own because the feedback varies so much from one specialist to another. I've had quotes that say no problem we can run that lift and 40 inch tires without anything additional for 5k while another says they have to modify several other parts to fit and could run around 20k. Thats a huge difference. Some mods may differ from one model gladiator to another, but they don't seem to be familiar with the actual differences in the models.

I also didn't initially get a rubicon since it came with a stock lift and offroad tires, thinking why would i pay up for something that i was going to change anyway.

It seems that there is several nuances to consider when upgrading some of these mods.

Would really like to hear some insight on this topic, the do's and don'ts or which models need what changes etc. Does anyone else have experience with finding out some of these must need changes or not needed features during their builds?
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Bantam

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Since you’re modding and towing, find yourself a a Sport or Overland Max Tow option. At least I think the Overland is now available with that option- I may be mistaken.

If you see yourself wanting lockers, then I’d recommend the Rubicon, maybe, if it’s not something you’d care to do yourself.

With the Max Tow, even though you’re swapping a bunch of stuff, that’ll still get you the sticker on the door for the highest tow weight…something you can’t get on a Rubicon.
 

j.o.y.ride

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Lift won't be any different from one model to the next, with the exception of Mojave because of the shock mounts. That much lift and you're tossing out the expensive factory shocks.

40s won't be any different one model to the next and you will need to regear no matter what, even if you get the new factory 4.88s it's not really enough.

Power supply for external items won't be any different one model to the next, just aux switches, which can be added to your existing truck.

Now whether you should do 40s on these stock axles is going to come down to how you use it. If you have a heavy foot on the road, or you like to slam into things off road vs slow crawl, you won't last long stock. If you are gentle you can make it work.

Honestly, unless there is a huge markup for the used truck and a mark down on the new one, it's probably not worth the delta in price difference in trading up if you already own the vehicle.

The one caveat is towing. Then, you may actually need to upgrade. But I dunno if you are going to want to be towing Max Tow levels of weight on 40s anyhow.
 

sharpsicle

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Get a Sport S. That is going to be the best platform for adding the weight of overlanding gear to the vehicle and for supporting towing.

Unfortunately you can't get the Max Tow unless you do automatic.
 

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Since you’re modding and towing, find yourself a a Sport or Overland Max Tow option. At least I think the Overland is now available with that option- I may be mistaken.

If you see yourself wanting lockers, then I’d recommend the Rubicon, maybe, if it’s not something you’d care to do yourself.

With the Max Tow, even though you’re swapping a bunch of stuff, that’ll still get you the sticker on the door for the highest tow weight…something you can’t get on a Rubicon.
The tow weight isn't on the door. Payload is, but not tow weight. Unless mine is just a unicorn, I don't see that on the door at all. Has axle weights, and payload, no towing mentioned at all.
 

db305

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Since you’re modding and towing, find yourself a a Sport or Overland Max Tow option. At least I think the Overland is now available with that option- I may be mistaken.

If you see yourself wanting lockers, then I’d recommend the Rubicon, maybe, if it’s not something you’d care to do yourself.

With the Max Tow, even though you’re swapping a bunch of stuff, that’ll still get you the sticker on the door for the highest tow weight…something you can’t get on a Rubicon.
can't get max tow with the manual transmission and it isn't offered on overland. not sure if it's confirmed or not but i saw a build sheet with it offered on altitude package in 22.
 

Bantam

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Whatever reason I was thinking the Max Tow was able to be added to the Overland on the online configurator - but thinking that must have been the Freedom edition. (Which that and the Altitude is based off the Sport so that makes sense)

Also what I was getting at with the door sticker is that you can’t “increase” the listed tow capacity above manufacturer spec. It may not actually be listed on the door.

Guess I shouldn’t speed read while waiting at a railroad crossing 😂


So just get WTF JT you want 😂
 

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TheRealElGis

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Also, his 40s that he plans on.

Honestly I see nothing compelling about spending money to change the truck, just spend it on upgrades.

thats what i'm evaluating. Being that i've had this jeep for over 2 years and racked up 40k miles, i've noticed a few things that i left out on the options that i would prefer to have. I also added a rack and some miner cosmetic things.

i left out things such as tow package, additional aux system, bedliner. I know they don't cost much to add but......

my thoughts are... if i'm going to spend the $ (possibly around 20k) on new rims, tires, lift, potentially a different rack and overlanding kit, maybe even a shell, a wrap, bumpers, side rails etc

thinking i would start fresh with new model and no miles
a model with the package that includes what i missed, fresh warranty etc

if i get a new one with the same payments and just extend my financing wouldn't that make sense?
 

HooliganActual

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my thoughts are... if i'm going to spend the $ (possibly around 20k) on new rims, tires, lift, potentially a different rack and overlanding kit, maybe even a shell, a wrap, bumpers, side rails etc
Honestly,it seems to me that if you are here asking, then you've probably already made up your mind about what you want to do and are just here looking for affirmation.

That said, I consider myself a "grasshopper" more than an "ant" if you are into fables (I have 2 JKUR's and a JTR). Life is short, money comes and goes. If you want a new rig to start a build project on, do it if you can. You may not have the money at a different point in your life. "You can't take it with you..."

I would point out though, that you've stated a couple of times that it makes sense to you to get a new platform vs spending the money to upgrade your current one but some of the items you refer to are wheels, tires, lift. You do realize that the cost of all of these mods is the same whether you get a new platform or build on the existing. The difference will be that since no model comes with a 6" lift and 40's, you are going to be throwing away (or selling for pennies on the dollar) all of the brand new components that are being replaced.

If your decision is based in sound financial reasoning, you should probably build onto your existing platform because you've at least gotten some goody out of all the stock components that will be replaced as you mod. If your decision is being made on emotion (like a grasshopper would), then just go for it and enjoy the heck out of it. I honestly, feel your dilemma as I have probably put $30K into my JTR for overlanding. I've learned a lot and would love to start with a clean slate as well but "you leave with the one who brought you" and for now that's this lady:
Jeep Gladiator WHICH MODEL SHOULD I TRADE FOR??? 12_HassayampaGladiator
 
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TheRealElGis

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Honestly,it seems to me that if you are here asking, then you've probably already made up your mind about what you want to do and are just here looking for affirmation.

That said, I consider myself a "grasshopper" more than an "ant" if you are into fables (I have 2 JKUR's and a JTR). Life is short, money comes and goes. If you want a new rig to start a build project on, do it if you can. You may not have the money at a different point in your life. "You can't take it with you..."

I would point out though, that you've stated a couple of times that it makes sense to you to get a new platform vs spending the money to upgrade your current one but some of the items you refer to are wheels, tires, lift. You do realize that the cost of all of these mods is the same whether you get a new platform or build on the existing. The difference will be that since no model comes with a 6" lift and 40's, you are going to be throwing away (or selling for pennies on the dollar) all of the brand new components that are being replaced.

If your decision is based in sound financial reasoning, you should probably build onto your existing platform because you've at least gotten some goody out of all the stock components that will be replaced as you mod. If your decision is being made on emotion (like a grasshopper would), then just go for it and enjoy the heck out of it. I honestly, feel your dilemma as I have probably put $30K into my JTR for overlanding. I've learned a lot and would love to start with a clean slate as well but "you leave with the one who brought you" and for now that's this lady:
Jeep Gladiator WHICH MODEL SHOULD I TRADE FOR??? 12_HassayampaGladiator
i understand your thinking, as i've done the same before regarding people asking for advice as opposed to looking for affirmation. But i'm actually not looking for affirmation. I'm really just trying to evaluate whether i should toss the money into my used one, get rid of the accessories i've already put into it. Or if i should have gone with a different model to add these mods.

it may actually turn out to be cheaper to swap into a lower priced model, but i don't know. I really just want to understand the major differences and experiences people had with their models.

When i first got mine, nobody had any builds or modifications, there was barely any experience with them because it was so new.

I've had situations in the past where i've done stuff like this and it costed me more in the end because i was unaware of the additional things that come along with it. I'd hate to add the mods and find out that i "should have" used a different model....or on the flip side, i "shouldn't have" paid up for something that wasn't needed
 

j.o.y.ride

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if i get a new one with the same payments and just extend my financing wouldn't that make sense?
That's your call, but extending out another 2 years on same payments is going to cost you your payments x24, whatever that is. It's not free or a wash, it's 24 payments more.

There's always some way to convince yourself that what you want to do is best, that's going to be your decision.
 

HooliganActual

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I'm really just trying to evaluate whether i should toss the money into my used one, get rid of the accessories i've already put into it. Or if i should have gone with a different model to add these mods.
I hope you don't feel like I was being negative towards you as your reply seemed a bit defensive. I was only trying to say that if you want to go new and can afford it, then why not do it...

It might be helpful if you gave us a real "list of mods" that you want to do. I think you've given mostly generalities making it a challenge for anyone to help you make comparisons, i.e. "several overlanding gear" or "tow capabilities".

What you have called out is (I may have missed some but I think I got the lion's share):
- 5-6" lift
- 37" or 40" tires
- several overlanding gear
- tow capabilities
- ability to run more energy to external sources like a computer etc
- additional aux system
- bedliner
- new rims
- tires
- lift
- potentially a different rack
- overlanding kit
- maybe even a shell
- a wrap
- bumpers
- side rails

#1 - 5-6" lift - Why? That is more of a mall crawling or rock crawling height. Since you've called out overlanding gear a couple of times, I will tell you that is too high for overlanding. The picture I shared is 2-1/2" lift with 37" tires; I'm 5'10" and I have to have two folding stools in the back that I to use to access things in the bed because it's that tall. The reason to lift a vehicle is so that you can put bigger tires under it so that you can get more ground clearance (or for looks). With a 2-1/2" lift you can easily get 35's under any Gladiator and if you put the highline fenders (like the Rubi has) or an aftermarket flat fender on, you should be able to do 37's. Another issue with 5-6"lift/40" tires is that your gas mileage, which already $ucks, is going to really drop. I averaged 14 mpg on my last 2 trips to Moab & Colorado with my lift & tires. So figure you will be less than that for sure.

Honestly, if I had just gotten different rear springs for my JTR (I wound up having customs springs made to handle the weight) then the stock JTR suspension with 35's would have been the way I should have gone. Hindsight is 20/20.

#2 - 37" or 40" tires - Why? Are you going to be rock crawling? I have 37s because I actually do crawl with my JTR about as much as I overland. The 37's help to improve my breakover angle even with the mpg penalty, BUT 35's would give me plenty of clearance on the ground. If you plan on doing light trail/forest service roads/etc. then go to 35's. Your gas mileage will be better, your drive train won't be as hard pressed and your overall weight won't suffer.

**BRIEF WEIGHT DISCUSSION** depending on what model you pick, your usable payload is only going to be around 1100#. Subtract from that your weight, passenger weight, full tank of gas, food, cooler, rack, ad infinitum and there really isn't a lot to play with there. If you go to 37's or 40's, then you have to leave one of those passengers at home or put them in another vehicle. I recently scaled my rig and am 200# over GVWR with a full loadout other than me and my wife (they wouldn't let us be in the vehicle while it was on the scale). Be mindful of all the add-ons eating into your payload capacity.

So, if you only go to 35's, you reserve payload, don't hurt your mpg as much, can be accommodated by any model using a moderate lift, etc.

#3 - several overlanding gear - Not sure what all you would include in this but one thing I would recommend getting is the Mopar Trail Rail System. A lot of cap/canopies/shells actually attach to this. My JTR did not come with this but I ordered and installed myself. Definitely add this option if you plan to use the bed for anything. Another nice option from an overlanding perspective is the power outlet option for the bed. Mine didn't come with this and it would have been nice. I've had to run my own wiring for my canopy and scene lighting but I could have tapped into this. If you'll give more insight to overlanding related gear, there are a lot of us on this forum that could get down to the nitty gritty on it more.

#4 - tow capabilities - what are you planning to tow? Remember, if you start adding a lot of weight with tires, overlanding gear, etc. you are now biting into your ability to tow effectively. As someone already said, you probably don't want to be towing with a 5-6" lift either. However, get the towing package on whatever model you get. Both the Rubicon and the Max Tow come with the heavier and wider axles that will give you a little more advantage on this. But the Rubicon has less payload and towing capacity as it has heavier components spread throughout the truck.

#5 - ability to run more energy to external sources like a computer etc - it really depends on what you are trying to actually accomplish here. I believe any model can get the option group that has a 110V outlet in the console, multiple USB chargers and the bed outlet option mentioned above extends some of that to the bed. If you are thinking more about powering a fridge and using solar, etc., then no model really comes with any options to support that. That is all aftermarket.

#6 - additional aux system - Not sure what you mean by this. If you mean the AUX switches on the main console then YES! YES! YES! But I believe that can be had on any model.

#7 - Bedliner - I think this is a preference thing. Initially, I was glad it came with my rig but now I wish it wasn't. Since I have a canopy and other things mounted in my bed, the bedliner makes it really hard to clean the bed. If I could hit it with the power washer it would be okay, but the way my build is it would be easier for me to clean the bed if it wasn't bedlined. What are you going to be doing with the bed?

#8 - potentially a different rack - I live in Arizona. It's nothing but dust here. All Day. Every Day. I decided to go with an Alu-Cab Canopy for security, environmental control and load carrying capacity for my Roof Top Tent. To each his own here and I don't mean to open up a debate about what is the best rack/shell/etc. Simply stated, I didn't want everything in my bed covered with dirt all the time so that I have to clean it when I want to use it. But this is not dependent on which model you get. I would recommend making sure that whatever you do get has the plastic bed rail caps.

#9 - a wrap - I have no perspective on this. Never used one. Thought about it for protecting the paint but here in AZ, the trails would destroy a wrap. Do you know what is soft in the desert? Not a darn thing!!!

#10 - Bumpers - I have Poison Spider bumpers, front and rear, on both of my JKUR's. I LOVE aftermarket bumpers!!! Gotta say though that the Mopar steel bumpers that come on the Rubicon are pretty darn nice. I took the wings off the front, added a winch plate, and I'd put it up against most bumpers in the aftermarket for both look and functionality. One thing to note here, going back to the weight discussion, IF you do go aftermarket for bumpers, give aluminum bumpers a serious look because you might recover some payload.

#11 - Side Rails - Are you looking for steps too? A lot on the market but I bought and installed TNT Customs Gladiator Adventure Series sliders for my JTR. I have them on one of my JKUR's and they are pure beef, have a good styling and MOST IMPORTANTLY are frame mounted. I have ACE Sliders on the other JKUR and they are not frame mounted; I actually bent my tub because of them. Only go FRAME MOUNTED!

With my diatribe compete (for now) LOL, I would summarize like this: since it sounds like you want overlanding and towing capabilities, you should consider the Max Tow with about all the options you can get, like bed outlet, aux switches, bedliner, bed cargo management. Put a reasonable lift/wheel/tire combo on it and get wheeling. Close second might be the Rubicon or Mojave because of their beefier drivetrains (over the Sport S). I went with the Rubicon because the lockers and T-case were important to me and my use case.
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