Winch battery disconnect and circuit breaker?

[Heater]

Do what you want cat. I suggest you do some more research.

Maybe go read some Moses Ludell material. Don’t come after me openly for trying to help. This is why I loathe forums and will never post anything on here or another one again. Thanks for proving my thoughts from years back.

Do what you want. No one cares.

Sponsored

 

[Lost1wing]

I use an Anderson connector. Have the one connected to my battery mounted to the frame rail with the weather cover on it. The one from my winch is tucked into the bumper. Easy to connect when needed and leave it connected if desired. Custom cables are available in different lengths. I got mine from Amazon, made in USA as well.

I also use the one from the battery to power my Viair 450 compressor and have an Energizer 30’ long jumper cable to attach as well.

Very convenient.

Anderson connections are great. I would just recommend the connection at the battery have a fuse or a switch. I think the Anderson connections are best for using the same device in multiple locations. Or for removing the device when not needed.

No need to get wound up on forum chat. That is what it's for. I learn stuff all of the time. Everyone here is trying to help. Sharing ideas, whether they turn out to be successes or failures is the point here. You are definitely entitled to your own opinion. You are not alone the way you have your winch set up. It sounds like the response you received was more of a safety warning and not a personal assault.

 

[RDakota]

So I‘ve decided to go with a disconnect switch and a fuse. i will most likely use the winch half dozen times per year so opening the hood doesn’t bother me. My winch will draw 300 amps at the most so I plan on a 350 or 400 amp fuse. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I look forward to learning more and more from this forum. Thanks

 

[SamJ3]

Here is my set up for the 10,000 lb. winch: manual disconnect and an inline circuit breaker. I leave it off, except when operating the which. Simple, safe, satisfactory.

 

[RDakota]

Here is my set up for the 10,000 lb. winch: manual disconnect and an inline circuit breaker. I leave it off, except when operating the which. Simple, safe, satisfactory.

That looks great. Would you mind sharing the source for the mounting plate and parts? I appreciate it. That’s exactly what I am looking for.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Why the disconnect and the overcurrent protection? It seems like an either or with no need for both to me? If you have an OCP device, it would trip in the case of a short, pinched wire, etc be that from an accident or a motor failure during use. If you run a switch you only have power when you are actively winching which means even in the rare case of some sort of short at that point you'd already have the hood open and be right there to simply shut it off? I'll pass on adding multiple potential failure points where none are truly needed.

 

[RDakota]

I like the disconnect to remove power from the front of the vehicle when I’m doing normal driving, purely a safety standpoint. I like the fuse in case there is a short in the winch, wire issue, etc., while using the winch. I may not be close to the disconnect to get to it quickly. Just another additional safety point for me.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I like the disconnect to remove power from the front of the vehicle when I’m doing normal driving, purely a safety standpoint. I like the fuse in case there is a short in the winch, wire issue, etc., while using the winch. I may not be close to the disconnect to get to it quickly. Just another additional safety point for me.

But if there's fuse protection, what is the safety risk in "having power to the front of the vehicle"?

 

[RDakota]

But if there's fuse protection, what is the safety risk in "having power to the front of the vehicle"?

In the case of an accident, even with the fuse, there could still be sparks which could cause a fire, even though the fuse would blow. I don’t know if these fuses are slo blow or not. At least in my mind. I am ok with spending $15-$20 for a fuse just for the added piece of mind. In my mind only. Other’s opinions may differ.

 

[Rusty PW]

If using a fuse. You need one of 500 amps. Winches can draw close to 480 amps.

 

[RDakota]

If using a fuse. You need one of 500 amps. Winches can draw close to 480 amps.

Thanks. The manual says a max of 301 amps at 12000 lbs that’s why I thought 350. Do I need to go to 500 or would 400 be better? Not sure how much over the ratings I need to go with the fuse.

 

[Rusty PW]

Thanks. The manual says a max of 301 amps at 12000 lbs that’s why I thought 350. Do I need to go to 500 or would 400 be better? Not sure how much over the ratings I need to go with the fuse.

The number of amps a winch draws depends on the amount of load and how long it's used, but a winch can draw over 400 amps when in use. Here are some examples of how many amps different winches draw:

• 9,000-pound winch: Draws 60-70 amps when spooling in and out, 250 amps under a 4,000-pound pull, and nearly 480 amps at 9,000 pounds
  
  
  
• WARN VR EVO 12S - 12,000LB WINCH: Draws 396 amps at a max line pull of 12,000 lbs
  
  
  
• VR EVO 10-S Winch: Draws 358 amps at a max line pull of 10,000 lbs
  
  
  
• 4500-lb. Wireless Winch Kit: Draws 280 amps at a max current at full load
  
  
  
• 1500 AC Utility Winch: Draws 9.1 amps at a max line pull of 1500 pounds
  
  
  
• • 5000-lb. Winch Kit: Draws 290 amps at a max current at full load
    
    

The actual amp draw varies by the winch and the manufacturer, and cheaper winches typically draw more amps.

 

[Lost1wing]

But if there's fuse protection, what is the safety risk in "having power to the front of the vehicle"?

400 amp fuse may not blow doing just a little bit of welding.

 

[Lost1wing]

Thanks. The manual says a max of 301 amps at 12000 lbs that’s why I thought 350. Do I need to go to 500 or would 400 be better? Not sure how much over the ratings I need to go with the fuse.

300 would be fine. 12,000lbs is a tough pull for the Gladiator. Something will break by the time you reach 12,000lbs. Don't let it be your winch, go with the 300 amp.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

400 amp fuse may not blow doing just a little bit of welding.

I also like the disconnect in case of any failure of the electronics out front. Doubtful it could ever happen, but since I have a wireless remote, I suppose there's a 1 in a bazillion chance something could trigger it.
Things can so south without blowing a fuse- all it takes is fuel and a spark, before the fuse blows. No power is safer. A manual switch isn't going to be a point of failure.
I've seen a lot of weird stuff where things happen, but fuses don't blow (we could look at the jeep fires around the world)

And if a switch DID fail, it takes nothing to move a cable over. Big whoop, big deal.

Sponsored