Your thoughts on towing this

[ShadowsPapa]

The only complicated install is the MOPAR controller.
That's because of where the main unit is to be mounted (depending on your age, dexterity, weight, health and so on this may be relatively simple or a pain in the butt) and because of the rather fragile dial and button.
The REDARC unit is extremely easy, simple to install, truly plug and play, the control can be mounted anywhere there is space and the main unit can be secured to any solid location under the dash. I suspect someone with decent talents could install the Redarc in no more than an hour, maybe less.

The only way I'd use the Curt Echo is with the optional trailer brake only button.
I can see the conversation on this going like this:
several forum members (Others) - "but I've used it for years and never needed that"
Me - yeah, 10 people out of many thousands who tow, and of those, many have actually needed and appreciated the ability to apply trailer brakes only"
Others - I've never needed it so they won't either
Me - lucky you........... not to mention that device makes moving a trailer around off-road in tight trails easier if you know how to use it.
Me - do I need to post the videos of situations where that trailer brake only button could have saved from disaster - or how using it can control sway in rough situations?

What I see complex is having to have the phone out of my pocket or belt clip to use the trailer brakes only feature, or adjusting gain when necessary for changing conditions. Several times I've needed to adjust gain for certain situations - steep gravel drives or trails where using my truck brakes to slow things down going down the gravel drive locked up my trailer brakes, piling up rock and gravel ahead of the wheels, so I cut gain way down.
I rarely see gain as a set it once and forget it for years thing. Changing conditions, loads and so on - so if I had the Echo, I'd have to have my phone handy to make tweaks as needed or to be sure I could quickly apply only the trailer brakes if needed (I have videos of why this is very important)
So I'd only use that controller with their optional button - which is quite nice because it's stick-on, no drilling. Place it where handy and it just works. Curt knows it's sometimes necessary to apply trailer brakes only, so smartly made that a part of the system.

I've towed many years with all sorts of trailers, campers, flatbeds, trucks of various ages and types and a good trailer brake controller with the ability to apply trailer brakes only is critical, IMO.

My final comment to "others" I just know are wanting to counter all of that is -
yeah, but we're talking to thousands of people who will do some searching, find these posts, and to the OP who had to ask if he could tow that original trailer at 7K - so....

Whatever controller is chosen, make sure you can easily adjust gain if needed, but more importantly, you can in a heartbeat apply the trailer brakes only. It's a big safety thing, especially to novices who even consider towing 7,000 pounds, at or over truck ratings, and likely aren't familiar with proper trailer loading and balancing.

Sponsored

 

[WILDHOBO]

The only complicated install is the MOPAR controller.
That's because of where the main unit is to be mounted (depending on your age, dexterity, weight, health and so on this may be relatively simple or a pain in the butt) and because of the rather fragile dial and button.
The REDARC unit is extremely easy, simple to install, truly plug and play, the control can be mounted anywhere there is space and the main unit can be secured to any solid location under the dash. I suspect someone with decent talents could install the Redarc in no more than an hour, maybe less.

The only way I'd use the Curt Echo is with the optional trailer brake only button.
I can see the conversation on this going like this:
several forum members (Others) - "but I've used it for years and never needed that"
Me - yeah, 10 people out of many thousands who tow, and of those, many have actually needed and appreciated the ability to apply trailer brakes only"
Others - I've never needed it so they won't either
Me - lucky you........... not to mention that device makes moving a trailer around off-road in tight trails easier if you know how to use it.
Me - do I need to post the videos of situations where that trailer brake only button could have saved from disaster - or how using it can control sway in rough situations?

What I see complex is having to have the phone out of my pocket or belt clip to use the trailer brakes only feature, or adjusting gain when necessary for changing conditions. Several times I've needed to adjust gain for certain situations - steep gravel drives or trails where using my truck brakes to slow things down going down the gravel drive locked up my trailer brakes, piling up rock and gravel ahead of the wheels, so I cut gain way down.
I rarely see gain as a set it once and forget it for years thing. Changing conditions, loads and so on - so if I had the Echo, I'd have to have my phone handy to make tweaks as needed or to be sure I could quickly apply only the trailer brakes if needed (I have videos of why this is very important)
So I'd only use that controller with their optional button - which is quite nice because it's stick-on, no drilling. Place it where handy and it just works. Curt knows it's sometimes necessary to apply trailer brakes only, so smartly made that a part of the system.

I've towed many years with all sorts of trailers, campers, flatbeds, trucks of various ages and types and a good trailer brake controller with the ability to apply trailer brakes only is critical, IMO.

My final comment to "others" I just know are wanting to counter all of that is -
yeah, but we're talking to thousands of people who will do some searching, find these posts, and to the OP who had to ask if he could tow that original trailer at 7K - so....

Whatever controller is chosen, make sure you can easily adjust gain if needed, but more importantly, you can in a heartbeat apply the trailer brakes only. It's a big safety thing, especially to novices who even consider towing 7,000 pounds, at or over truck ratings, and likely aren't familiar with proper trailer loading and balancing.

For the record, I have the button. I think it was $20 or something similar.

Also, there are big advantages to the echo. The biggest being different two vehicle and trailer profiles. I can move it between tow vehicles and/or switch trailers and my settings are saved. It’s amazing. And you do not need your phone for it to function, except during setup or profile changes. It remembers. You can destroy your phone and it still works.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For the record, I have the button. I think it was $20 or something similar.

Also, there are big advantages to the echo. The biggest being different two vehicle and trailer profiles. I can move it between tow vehicles and/or switch trailers and my settings are saved. It’s amazing. And you do not need your phone for it to function, except during setup or profile changes. It remembers. You can destroy your phone and it still works.

Yeah, not really aimed your direction - I seem to recall you having mentioned that option before.
If one opts for that controller, definitely get that button. it's really dirt cheap insurance, IMO.
The drawback for me would be inability to instantly change gain by just reaching down to a dial as my trailer tires are sliding. I've had to do that multiple times.
You unload a car, then pull down a steep gravel drive with an empty trailer - and things slide.
I can see it being great for multiple vehicle use - if you own two vehicles that can tow, you buy one controller, two of those buttons, and you've cut costs - and installation, almost in half.
But for changing loads like my case - pull the trailer, load up, get somewhere, unload, pull trailer around to another place, then later load up again - I need to be able to change gain on the fly - sometimes 3 or 4 times within a single hookup.
For a CAMPER, set it and forget it. It's ideal there.
Pull that camper with two vehicles, it's even more ideal.
There's little to no need to change gain once set.

I'm only saying - it's ideal for some, not so much for others, has pros and cons, like so many other things.
It wouldn't work for me.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yeah, not really aimed your direction - I seem to recall you having mentioned that option before.
If one opts for that controller, definitely get that button. it's really dirt cheap insurance, IMO.
The drawback for me would be inability to instantly change gain by just reaching down to a dial as my trailer tires are sliding. I've had to do that multiple times.
You unload a car, then pull down a steep gravel drive with an empty trailer - and things slide.
I can see it being great for multiple vehicle use - if you own two vehicles that can tow, you buy one controller, two of those buttons, and you've cut costs - and installation, almost in half.
But for changing loads like my case - pull the trailer, load up, get somewhere, unload, pull trailer around to another place, then later load up again - I need to be able to change gain on the fly - sometimes 3 or 4 times within a single hookup.
For a CAMPER, set it and forget it. It's ideal there.
Pull that camper with two vehicles, it's even more ideal.
There's little to no need to change gain once set.

I'm only saying - it's ideal for some, not so much for others, has pros and cons, like so many other things.
It wouldn't work for me.

Totally fair. I’ve not needed to change gain while driving yet, after 4 years with it. I had it before the gladiator actually. Occasionally I’ve done minor adjustments because of heavier loads, but I’ve done it at stoplights, or asked my wife to do it if in motion. But that was really only in the beginning when getting it dialed in. I don’t remember the last time I did. I’ve never needed the button yet, but I test it every other tow at least. The other thing I love with the echo is hookup testing. I walk to the trailer wheels with my phone, engage the brakes from the app, and if I don’t hear them engage, I don’t leave the driveway. I do it as part of the lights and wiring check every time I tow. I like that I don’t need a second person to push the brake pedal.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Totally fair. I’ve not needed to change gain while driving yet, after 4 years with it. I had it before the gladiator actually. Occasionally I’ve done minor adjustments because of heavier loads, but I’ve done it at stoplights, or asked my wife to do it if in motion. But that was really only in the beginning when getting it dialed in. I don’t remember the last time I did. I’ve never needed the button yet, but I test it every other tow at least. The other thing I love with the echo is hookup testing. I walk to the trailer wheels with my phone, engage the brakes from the app, and if I don’t hear them engage, I don’t leave the driveway. I do it as part of the lights and wiring check every time I tow. I like that I don’t need a second person to push the brake pedal.

You are a rare one - actually checking trailer brakes. I wonder how many out there, besides us, actually even bother with that?
Last thing I want to do is the "well, it all worked when I parked it last week" and then get into a bad situation and find out the hard way some chipmunk or mouse ate through a wire in the trailer frame.......
And I had that happen - lights worked fine, everything worked fine. Then I take off and someone flags me while passing saying my trailer lights in the far rear aren't working.
I pull into a rest area, and sure enough - mouse damage inside the frame channel.
It could have been the trailer brakes.
I check even MORE after that one. I jounce things, pull it around our section here, park and check again. I'm just paranoid about such things. I could lose not only my truck, trailer and the car on it, but even worse - someone else could get hurt.
You can go from 0 damage, wires perfect, no sign of rodents, no nest materials, to a full nest, chewed wires, etc. in under a week.
Kudos for checking the brakes and not just the brake lights.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You are a rare one - actually checking trailer brakes. I wonder how many out there, besides us, actually even bother with that?
Last thing I want to do is the "well, it all worked when I parked it last week" and then get into a bad situation and find out the hard way some chipmunk or mouse ate through a wire in the trailer frame.......
And I had that happen - lights worked fine, everything worked fine. Then I take off and someone flags me while passing saying my trailer lights in the far rear aren't working.
I pull into a rest area, and sure enough - mouse damage inside the frame channel.
It could have been the trailer brakes.
I check even MORE after that one. I jounce things, pull it around our section here, park and check again. I'm just paranoid about such things. I could lose not only my truck, trailer and the car on it, but even worse - someone else could get hurt.
You can go from 0 damage, wires perfect, no sign of rodents, no nest materials, to a full nest, chewed wires, etc. in under a week.
Kudos for checking the brakes and not just the brake lights.

I’m the same way. I walk around it each time I get gas, and I look at the trailer as I walk away and lock it. If the lights blink, I’m at least in reasonable shape.

 

[KC_H]

From my perspective a reasonable towing weight is half the published towing capacity. I pull a 17' Casita Travel Trailer, its dry weight is 2480 lbs and usually about 3500 lbs ready for a trip.

It does fine on flat ground but is miserable once the terrain get just a bit hilly. This truck really needed a hemi

 

[ShadowsPapa]

From my perspective a reasonable towing weight is half the published towing capacity. I pull a 17' Casita Travel Trailer, its dry weight is 2480 lbs and usually about 3500 lbs ready for a trip.

It does fine on flat ground but is miserable once the terrain get just a bit hilly. This truck really needed a hemi

You tow in Florida and have trouble with only 3500 pounds?
I tow 5,000 without trouble even in hills.

Let it wind up! Don't try to keep it under 3,000-3,500 RPM

It doesn't need a hemi - I know a few folks want one, but it's not needed by any stretch.
Modern tow vehicles wind up for power - so don't try to baby it and keep the RPM down. Even my LS-powered Silverado would wind up 4,000-5,000 RPM in our hills hauling my car hauler
Your 3,500 pounds would be nothing for my Overland.

 

[KC_H]

You tow in Florida and have trouble with only 3500 pounds?
I tow 5,000 without trouble even in hills.

Let it wind up! Don't try to keep it under 3,000-3,500 RPM

It doesn't need a hemi - I know a few folks want one, but it's not needed by any stretch.
Modern tow vehicles wind up for power - so don't try to baby it and keep the RPM down. Even my LS-powered Silverado would wind up 4,000-5,000 RPM in our hills hauling my car hauler
Your 3,500 pounds would be nothing for my Overland.

Unfortunately not true for my Rubicon, It tows fine in FL, but 15 mph on Colorado hills was miserable and dangerous. Even loaded semis were faster. I have towed trailers for 50 years and know how to do it, the 3.6 is just a pig... My wife's Highlander pulled it just fine but not the jeep...

I stopped in at a Denver Jeep dealer to get them to take a look at it and they just laughed and said don't tow with the gladiator, "it is a pig"...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Unfortunately not true for my Rubicon, 15 mph on Colorado hills was miserable and dangerous. Even loaded semis were faster. I have towed trailers for 50 years and know how to do it, the 3.6 is just a pig... My wife's Highlander pulled it just fine but not the jeep...

Colorado is at elevation - mountains, not hills.
Is your Rubicon STOCK?

 

[KC_H]

Colorado is at elevation - mountains, not hills.
Is your Rubicon STOCK?

Hahahaha I understand that, the stock rubicon would only do 15 mph while other similar tow vehicles were passing us like we were in reverse. We switched to my wife's highlander and it was like it was towing nearly nothing (yes we had both cars there for other reasons). Once again the Jeep dealer in Denver said "don't tow with that vehicle, it is a pig"

The gladiator should have had a 5.7L Hemi...

 

[WILDHOBO]

Hahahaha I understand that, the stock rubicon would only do 15 mph while other similar tow vehicles were passing us like we were in reverse. We switched to my wife's highlander and it was like it was towing nearly nothing (yes we had both cars there for other reasons). Once again the Jeep dealer in Denver said "don't tow with that vehicle, it is a pig"

The gladiator should have had a 5.7L Hemi...

I tow a 3300lb loaded trailer with a lifted rubicon on 37’s in the Colorado mountains. I don’t win any races up the passes, but I can certainly go faster than the semis. A truly nasty pass puts me around 50mph going up. What’s your gear ratio? I think the 5.13s help me a little. Gas mileage when towing is single digits, but oh well. Kleenex box towing another Kleenex box isn’t going to be efficient.

 

[Sbro2021]

I pull a dry 2400lbs Opus with my JTD..... well aware 40's don't help, but there is only one gage to watch when pulling anything at my weight or north of that---- ENGINE OIL TEMP! It takes nothing before that engine is north of 255 Deg and won't take long before the "limp it to the dealer mode" takes over.. Whether it be from overheating or a plugged DPF, both will leave you frustrated.. Especially if you don't have a tuner to force a regen you will be stranded and have to be towed if you get a DPF plugged code! Been there done it! Eco Diesel =/= 6.7 capability. Cooling is completely inadequate for sustained "heavy for a jeep" towing, even with the "tow package" which I also have. Not to be confused with the MAX tow which is different and never came as a rubicon option. I have PN's for the differences between our tow and the Max tow. Radiator fan is the biggest difference. 5K is way too much weight.

 

[KC_H]

I tow a 3300lb loaded trailer with a lifted rubicon on 37’s in the Colorado mountains. I don’t win any races up the passes, but I can certainly go faster than the semis. A truly nasty pass puts me around 50mph going up. What’s your gear ratio? I think the 5.13s help me a little. Gas mileage when towing is single digits, but oh well. Kleenex box towing another Kleenex box isn’t going to be efficient.

Stock 4:10s on 33s

 

[WILDHOBO]

Stock 4:10s on 33s

I used to tow it on 33’s with the 4.10s and it performed about the same. I’m wondering what’s different about our setups, other than the couple hundred more pounds of your trailer.

Sponsored