clever how you suspended your JT from tHe ceiling using ratchet straps while working on the lift install… LOL!Finally got around to installing my AEV 2" Spacer lift
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haha kinda does look like that huh. Wish it were that easy.clever how you suspended your JT from tHe ceiling using ratchet straps while working on the lift install… LOL!
Finally had a nice day today, so I took the afternoon off. Got the front shocks done today and the falcon adjustable through shaft SS.Got the Falcon rear shocks installed. Need to find some time to do the fronts.
What fender flares are those?Switched out my 39 ko2 to the 40 Baja boss![]()
motobilt highline flaresWhat fender flares are those?
https://www.spiderwebshade.com/products/custom-printed-shadereally like that who does custom printing or what material must a person get to do that?
May I suggest Metalcloak rear sway link reinforcement?Finally got around to installing my AEV 2" Spacer lift
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Any lights on dash after deleting?Did the aux battery delete today.
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No lights. There has been few threads on the subject. You have to search those out. There is a couple of methods but doing the full wire delete is the more tougher of them. There is no "A to Z" instruction sets. You just have to follow some common sense and dive into it and be mechanically inclined and not afraid. The method I used involved having to remove the fuse box, battery tray and air box to get access to the wiring for removal. Plus you need to fabricate a heavy gauge jumper to go between N1 and N3. Only difference I made from the diagram below is I ran the ground cable that went to the aux battery negative to a body ground rather than removed it as it saved me the hassle of having to hack it off the "current" sensor.Any lights on dash after deleting?
been considering it.
do you have a link for the how to?
Took some time to throw the front 2.5” springs in, though I didn’t quite finish before had to reassemble and pick the kids up.This was a big one!
Finished installing my Rock Krawler Pro-X cradle and upper control arms, and new Clayton 2.5” HD springs.
Spent all night monday jacking up the truck and drilling/tapping the bosses on the axle. Took me hours to finish, I couldn’t get the included drill bit to drill in. Granted, I kept the axle dropped but attached so there was not a lot of room to put my weight behind it…
So, I used couple of my smaller cheap bits and they worked like a charm, eventually the RK bit worked.
I removed the bracket for the e-locker since it was in the way.
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there was a pretty big gap under the cradle, but torquing the bolts down laid it flush.
I didn’t get to finish putting arms in until today. I cheaped out and didn’t get other control arms… for now.
I tried to keep the lowers attached and undo one upper at a time so I wouldn’t have trouble getting the bolts in.
Well, the RK Pro-X arms are supposed to be for 3”+ lifts and they really raised the pinion angle. The joint ends are basically screwed all the way into the arms so not much shorter adjustment. If I had adjustable lowers I could tinker with them but I didn’t want to at this point.
So, they were not easy to get in. I had to use another jack under the front of the diff to raise the pinion and get the arms to line up.
Pro Tip - attach the cradle ends first, easily, then struggle to get the frame ends in. Way easier!
Now I’m all set!
Stock springs with spacers 20.5” to Clayton ~22” (21.625 +\- .25)
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I think I gained ~2.5” over my OEM Rubicon springs with 2” AEV spacers. I’ve gotten too heavy and I only had ~2” between the bumps stops and the pads, which is why I got the Clayton springs. Otherwise I had been content with the spacer lift.
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Now
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I think the pinion angle looks pretty good to me (I have a carrier bearing spacer from my spacer lift).
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now to find a day to put the front Clayton springs in.![]()
