0w40 Euro spec motor oil in the 3.6 Pentastar PSU

[jac04]

I don’t know the engineering of this engine ...

Me neither, but over on BITOG there is a person who claims to have been a Pentastar design engineer, screen name OIL_UDDER. They state that the heavier weight oil leads to accelerated wear of the cams and in the head at cold start. (see link below)

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/626-000-mile-pentastar-teardown.329423/#post-5474366

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[Lunentucker]

Extremely informative video settles this topic once and for all.

 

[Janga]

My second engine also broke-in real nice too. So far in 21k kms, I’ve changed my oil about 8-9 times now, all have oil analysis reports. I’m a data hound and want to know how wear metals are trending. This second engine, dealership installed, was accidentally overfilled to 12L by the tech and I took it on a
1560k km trip to BC. There must be at least 3 mountain passes to summit each way. Got it home and changed the oil and shit hit the fan. Hence all my oil changes and reports to watch if damage had occurred. Non detected.

So here’s the thing with my history with FCA and warranty. You get a product with a “warranty” and a rule book to follow to be in good standing with that warranty. The component might be dying for what ever reason - (my case) glycol consumption in the engine, glycol contamination in the transmission- FCA’s engineer stand on it “it’s all good”, “nothing wrong with it”. I try to fix it and all hell comes down on me, warranty voided and I have figure it out.

Best practices to save what I had didn’t work and FCA didn’t have to make an ethical decision or critically think through what actually happened. I went off course with best practice and I paid for it.

OP, I read the specs on the Mobil 1 site for the 0/40 you used and Im happy to read, at the very least, the oil is spec’d for gasoline and diesel engines. ??

Mobil 1 does say however ‘if you have a manufacturer warranty’ follow their recommendations and schedules. So, you’ve given FCA and even Mobil 1 a reason to kick you down the road, notwithstanding your good practice to care for your engine the best you know how. You will get no sympathy, favour or ethical decisions for you if your engine does anything weird for a plethora of reasons and you need warranty work.

You will also not experience any of that from the ridged attitudes that express themselves here but I will feel empathy because it’s a nasty lonely road to travel.

I don’t know the engineering of this engine but I more so do of my lawn mower. It runs horrible on 0/20 and fantastic on 20/50.

I personally “feel” 0/20 is too light and I’d rather run 5/30 but I know what will happen if I step out of line. I’m still pulling the many boots out of my a$$ as eluded to above. Good luck with your decision. I can’t wait to see any oil analysis reports!

You have changed your oil 8 or 9 times in 21000 kilometers ?

 

[Lunentucker]

You have changed your oil 8 or 9 times in 21000 kilometers ?

How many yards is that?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

You have changed your oil 8 or 9 times in 21000 kilometers ?

Yes

 

[Maximus Gladius]

How many yards is that?

Millions of thousands

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Me neither, but over on BITOG there is a person who claims to have been a Pentastar design engineer, screen name OIL_UDDER. They state that the heavier weight oil leads to accelerated wear of the cams and in the head at cold start. (see link below)

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/626-000-mile-pentastar-teardown.329423/#post-5474366

I think my “take away” from all that read is to run three 0/20’s and two 5/30’s.

 

[Janga]

Yes

If you’re changing oil that often it probably doesn’t make much difference what oil you use. You gonna have the cleanest engine of all. Keep us posted on the oil analysis though. ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Lots of Hyperbole here.

Of note, I used the 0W-40 in my Yamaha jet boat last year. The oil analysis came back on it nice. I’d consider using it in my Mojave.

Why would the viscosity change analysis?

Well so far on 5w-30 I have not detected any operational differences.

So you've not noticed any change in cam timing, no changes in torque and HP output, and you've done side-by-side comparisons. You've taken data over miles with one, changed it to the other and gathered all of the data with cam/crank difference, valve lift changes, ignition timing and so on.
Cool.


This is SOOOO funny. There's proof of nothing at all here. Nothing to see. You won't see any proof of anything in the filter because of a different viscosity.
Use whatever. You've proven nothing.

It's going to take tens of thousands of miles and even at that, it's one engine. That's it. One. Over a short time.

I don't see the point of this, frankly. Hundreds of thousands of these operate on the recommended oil with great results, and then one engine gets a difference viscosity, it doesn't blow up, and we're scientifically proving something.

On the olive oil - is that EVOO? That stuff isn't cheap. I was going to buy 5 quarts the guy at the grocery store asked me what the heck I was frying with that much oil.

 

[Mr._Bill]

I found some Rotella 5W40 that I had bought for my Duramax diesel. If there are no negative reports from everyone that tries the thicker oil, I may run it during the hot months next summer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I found some Rotella 5W40 that I had bought for my Duramax diesel. If there are no negative reports from everyone that tries the thicker oil, I may run it during the hot months next summer.

Why do you dislike your engine? Diesel oil in a gas engine?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Why do you dislike your engine? Diesel oil in a gas engine?

I think he’s joking. He got you!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I think he’s joking. He got you!

I know he'd not do it just by the viscosity he listed. He's smarter than that.

 

[Osteodoc08]

I use Rotella T-6 in several powersports engines. It’s a quality synthetic with robust additive packages and is safe to use with wet clutch systems since it’s not “energy conserving”. Nothing wrong with “diesel oil” in gas engines in the correct application.

Lots of conjecture and feelings regarding oils.

I’ve used valvoline Synthetic 0w-20 in my Gladiator and changed at 2500, then 5000 and every 5K since. I use a digital torque wrench on the oil filter cover and anything else I work on (usually). I’ve never had an engine problem except for a GM 6.2L that spun a bearing under warranty and my 3.5L EB in my Expedition that needed new cam phasers due to design flaws. Plan on keeping my Gladiator a long time. Time will tell how the motor does.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

If people want to use a 0/40 “diesel” spec oil, it also needs to be spec’d for gas as well, then go for it.

I’ve personally seen good results on a friend’s vehicle after 150,000k kms was run on 0/20 during the warranty period then the switch was made to 5/30 Mobil with SP(gas spec), CK5 (diesel spec). The vehicle has run this way a couple years already. His last oil change has gone 50k kms until the lab told him it was time to change it. Hes already over 220k kms on the odometer.

He’s scientific, mechanically minded and has watched very close his oil analysis’ reports.

To me, he’s a living testimony the science works on modern engines. I have some time to keep watch to see how it goes for him

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