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Remote start not working?

Pilsner

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What's that got to do with remote start not working or "deleting" the aux battery?

I heard tales of one of the hood sensors specifically causing this issue. When swapped, remote start worked again. I have one disconnected without issue so cannot confirm. No idea why there are two.


He didn't say that he did. It will still function at reduced ability with the aux battery deleted/bypassed.


True - if the voltage is low a remote start won't work, same for fuel.

Of course, depending on how the work was done, exactly what was done, etc., could be related to a mishap in that process (fuse, etc.)
 

ShadowsPapa

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Doors locked?
Good point - does PART of the process work at all?

And if a person has Sirius Guardian, could try it from a phone. But can't do that without that service and not everyone wants or likes it.
If the doors lock, it's getting something done - so something is stopping it part way through.
 

Lost1wing

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Not working? Does it not try to start at all? Does it start for 10 seconds and die.? The owners manual on page 19 (online) has the list of things to check.
 

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If the main battery is low it will not work, went through this last winter with my JLUR.

Your need to run a load test on the main battery to see its actual state. The resting voltage while running or just after the vehicle had been shut off is not a true state of the batteries condition. Again, I went through this last winter.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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If the main battery is low it will not work, went through this last winter with my JLUR.

Your need to run a load test on the main battery to see its actual state. The resting voltage while running or just after the vehicle had been shut off is not a true state of the batteries condition. Again, I went through this last winter.
Went through similar on a car last summer - battery charged up fine, voltage read fine for a flooded cell battery at 12.6+
But put a load on it and the starter engaged, voltage dropped to like 8, and that's where things stopped. I could charge it and get the voltage back up at rest, but she'd drop like a rock with a large load on it. It was fine powering the electronics, minimal load.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Not working? Does it not try to start at all? Does it start for 10 seconds and die.? The owners manual on page 19 (online) has the list of things to check.
Mine was 22, but close enough........ it will get you there.

It will also only work twice before a real start event takes place (press brake, press big round button) so if it's been tried twice, it won't even attempt it again until it's actually started in person.

If the doors have been off and something is amiss there, that's going to prevent it, along with this list ->

Jeep Gladiator Remote start not working? 1705518072548
 

Pilsner

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Looking at it,
Good point - does PART of the process work at all?

And if a person has Sirius Guardian, could try it from a phone. But can't do that without that service and not everyone wants or likes it.
If the doors lock, it's getting something done - so something is stopping it part way through.

Doors do not need to be locked. They lock on activation.

Edit. Nm. See you were trying to see if doors lock on activation.
 

Pilsner

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Mine was 22, but close enough........ it will get you there.

It will also only work twice before a real start event takes place (press brake, press big round button) so if it's been tried twice, it won't even attempt it again until it's actually started in person.

If the doors have been off and something is amiss there, that's going to prevent it, along with this list ->

1705518072548.webp

That was my question. Hood shut. Try the other sensor.

If one goes to the alarm module, that could be an issue.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Looking at it,



Doors do not need to be locked. They lock on activation.

Edit. Nm. See you were trying to see if doors lock on activation.
Exactly.
Start it normally to reset the remote start counter.
Shut it down.
Exit vehicle, fully close, but do not lock, the doors.
Try a remote start to see if the beast at least locks the doors.
Some basic troubleshooting rather than tossing mud at the wall and see which mud sticks.
 

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My guess is it's still just a battery issue. Especially with the cold weather lately. Just had both mine replaced under warranty. Aux still connected, but same behavior. She'd crank, try to start, then stop. A/SS quit working about a week prior. Message said 'battery charging'. It hit 10deg the other night. Next morning, no remote start. Honk once and nothing. Manual start, turn over, then nothing.

Don't understand the design. Plenty of juice to crank, but absolutely would not start. Fired up a couple of times, then died immediately. Got it towed to dealer, soon as service writer saw what it was doing, called it a battery issue.

if it already wants both to be able to crank if low on juice, removing the aux would seem to only make the matter worse.
 

Minty JL

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Went through similar on a car last summer - battery charged up fine, voltage read fine for a flooded cell battery at 12.6+
But put a load on it and the starter engaged, voltage dropped to like 8, and that's where things stopped. I could charge it and get the voltage back up at rest, but she'd drop like a rock with a large load on it. It was fine powering the electronics, minimal load.
Thanks for the reinforcement Bill
 

ShadowsPapa

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Thanks for the reinforcement Bill
Not like you really needed it.

(and back to batteries - it's likely to be worse in extreme temperatures)
 

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Mine recently had remote start issues. Sometimes, it would start, then shut down after a few seconds. Other times, the lights would just flash, but no crank. The proximity door lock would work only intermittently. Turned out to be the fob battery. When I checked the battery voltage of the fob battery, it showed "green" (using a cheap battery tester). Put in a new battery, and everything worked perfect.
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