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Transmission oil change with PPE aluminum oil pan

willys 41

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Iam nearing 50k miles on my 21 jtr and I want to change the transmission fluid with a drain and fill with new filter and possibly the PPE extra capacity aluminum pan. This new pan from PPE will clear the exhaust although you have to loosen the exhaust to get it in.

Now Iam not entirely sold on the new aluminum pan keeping the transmission temps cooler with the exhaust pipe being so close. In my mind the aluminum pan will soak up more heat than the plastic pan unless you're on the highway perhaps getting alot of air movement. Iam thinking that some heat wrap could help with this if there's enough clearance for it. On the plus side, the pan has a built in drain which is nice and seems to be built well. Iam curious how many here have installed this pan or decided against it for various reasons. I plan on keeping this truck to well over 100k miles unless jeep does something cool like put a hemi in the gladiator.

I found this recent video of the install process posted not long ago:
I have the PPE trans pan on my jeep also put I did wrap the exhaust pipe under the pan with exhaust heat wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KSBHPJ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_20&th=1
 

KrashEd

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I have one of these pans on my 850RE gasser and install was easy except for the having to drop the exhaust for the install (gasser). One of the bolts at a flange seemed like Mitchell was cross-threaded from the factory, but could have just been 30k miles of heat-cycling. One thing to note - PPE manufacturing forgot to add an Oring to the drain plug, so had to deal with that... always check. Fluid fill was cake, just follow the directions that are out there and have a good xfer pump.

We use our JT almost exclusively for towing our camper, off road, and the mall/Starbucks (always brutal), and I can say that I can see a difference when towing, especially in the Rockies and stiff headwinds. It definitely maintained normal temps better and seemed to recover faster. Just my experience, FWIW.
 

red/green hawk

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willys 41

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I'm curious, what temps are you running at now? After the pan change I've been seeing 170s to high 180s without any heat wrap.
I have not kept a close eye on the trans temp. Mostly because I have not done any off road after installing it.
This April I will be in Vegas, Sand Hollow and Moab and will be watching it closely along with all my temps.
 

ASU_Greg

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I installed a MORE engine/trans skid plate and thought that with it encasing the cross over pipe and trans pan, there could be heat issues. The skid may or may not block that much air flow, but it looks like it would. I ordered up some DEI heat wrap and spray sealant to cover the cross over. If nothing else, I feel like it helps with heat soak and the fluid runs cooler….
 

kevman65

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I like the looks of the PPE, the only thing I can see that would make it better is a removable section to just change out the filter.
 

Escape.idiocracy

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Arent the diesel units geared differently and a different transmission all together .the e.6L has a 8HP50Generic copy called the 850RE and the Diesel has a 8HP75 torque flight transmission with over drive. Totally geared higher as the RPM's of the diesel are lower .
They are actually geared the same. The significant torque difference just makes up for it….
https://gearboxlist.com/zf/8hp75/
^ ratios can be found here.
This is why I personally have a hard time understanding the size increase to differential gear conversations…. Not saying I would put 5.13’s or 5.33’s on a diesel….. but 4.88’s all day long 🤷‍♂️ I suppose it does make sense for gas jeeps to go deeper to help the mechanical advantage for lack of torque….

Edit:
Better link for gear ratios:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ator_spnjg1fg0lchf9kntfhlpmj63i18-pdf.143525/
 

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Maximus Gladius

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heat wraps are effective they work on motorcycle pipes
After reading this forum thread, I decided to deep dive into the world of YouTube reviews of exhaust wraps and blankets for the roughly 30” of exhaust pipe that throws heat toward our transmissions and I almost pulled the trigger on some wrap. But there was this one or two YouTube reviews that commented on exhaust pipes that crack as a result of the wrap keeping heat in and the metal reaches higher temps causing cracks. Another review found that wraps hold in moisture which causes rust and breakdown of the pipe.

I then contacted a close friend of mine with tech certification of 30 years being with Porsche (mostly) and others and he also mentioned pipes that can crack with the extra internal heat wraps generate. His focus is to create stainless steel heat shields (custom stuff) and stays away from wraps.
 

willys 41

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After reading this forum thread, I decided to deep dive into the world of YouTube reviews of exhaust wraps and blankets for the roughly 30” of exhaust pipe that throws heat toward our transmissions and I almost pulled the trigger on some wrap. But there was this one or two YouTube reviews that commented on exhaust pipes that crack as a result of the wrap keeping heat in and the metal reaches higher temps causing cracks. Another review found that wraps hold in moisture which causes rust and breakdown of the pipe.

I then contacted a close friend of mine with tech certification of 30 years being with Porsche (mostly) and others and he also mentioned pipes that can crack with the extra internal heat wraps generate. His focus is to create stainless steel heat shields (custom stuff) and stays away from wraps.
I have read the same.
Put I felt it is such a short area about 12'' that heat build up in the pipe would be minimal.
 

Planerdude

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I have this pan…

Once the transmission is to temp, it is to temp…. The aluminum may? Marginally help bring it back down to temp, but the added capacity is just going to take it slightly more time to arrive at temp…. More fluid does benefit by allowing for more crap to suspend in the fluid and provide overall less breakdown of fluid due to increased volume between intervals vs factory capacity.
There is still a fluid “warmer” in the mix that uses motor coolant, and a thermostat in the cooling system of the zf… so unless you change out these components you are still going to run the same temp, just benefit from the added capacity for surge temps and fluid breakdown.

zf recommends a maintenance interval of 40-70k miles, use being the variable. I plan to change every 40-50k 🤷‍♂️. This is a beast of a transmission…. Basic maintenance should keep it set for a long time.

@Stan hopefully you can find a unit from a diesel vs a gas unit…. Diesel zf’s are made in Germany, gas are clones…. For the few years I have been on here, I have seen significantly more gas zf clone issues than diesel 🤷‍♂️
Ten 3.6’s built for every 1 diesel. Not good math or logic dude.
 

Planerdude

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On the JL they are plastic on the JT it is Stamped Steel sheet metal . Stick a magnetic on it . Yes I did a fluid and filter change at 89K and now at 119k it is very stiff and stubborn shifts abruptly into 4th (sometimes it don't) I usually start out in manual mode and shift it like a standard tranny letting off the gas each time till I reach 4th then stay in 4th for a couple miles then flip over to drive and it shifts up to 5th and onward after this it won't give me any trouble . Now if I arrive on site leave it sitting for hours and hours and then get backing it and wait for it to idle down it will do the same crap. And just recently it has started not wanting to go into reverse.
Some guys have said it is a shift solenoid is the problem . (I aint sure) but I do know that each gear does not slip it's just getting it to shift into those gears. 4th is the only gear thst there doesn't seem to be any lag at all between shifts even when that sucker is scalding hot like 190degrees. Where I am at cant find anyone who has revuilt them to even attempt a rebuild yet. On line I seen a video from WIT in Chicago and the guy says they are straight forward type rebuilds. That being said I also have found out that several components require special tools to remove a few things as it is tore down. I will aquire all that after I do a swap. Why ? Because this is a out and in kinda 2 day timeliness for me the nature of my job requires to me to be present M-F without fail. So I aint got time for a week long rebuild. I will aquire the parts ,specialty tools etc and do a few days here and a few days there until I have it complete then it will be ready to go shoild the swap fail. This is also going to allow me to KEEP my original transmission ( I hate the fact that they want my core when I buy a new one thats B
S.) This will ensure that I always have another ready to go . Yes and with a buddy or my brother swapping one in an all nighter is possible.
Jeep dealers are now allowed to do the rebuild of the 850re. The 4th gear issue is the failure of the D-clutch assembly. Mine was the second one done in the country back in October. The tech that did mine said it was a simple rebuild., otjer than needing a couple of special tools. I talked a few transmission shops here in vegas and what they told me the rebuild is basic, the problem is the software relearn and updates, which is why they wont touch them.
 

Stan H

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Jeep dealers are now allowed to do the rebuild of the 850re. The 4th gear issue is the failure of the D-clutch assembly. Mine was the second one done in the country back in October. The tech that did mine said it was a simple rebuild., otjer than needing a couple of special tools. I talked a few transmission shops here in vegas and what they told me the rebuild is basic, the problem is the software relearn and updates, which is why they wont touch them.
I have seen the D-Clutch assembly for sale on WIT and some of the special tools here just recently . The Software Relearn is also able to be done with a JScan believe it or not . I seriously doubt there is an update for it . As once the TCM has been reset to its original state then the box learns on its own. I know I can rebuild it if given enough time. I suspect the rebuild was probably 2000-2500
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