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Can I improve the steering/driving experience any more?

bleda2002

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hard to tell from photos but here you go. I measure 9 degrees of angle on each

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None of those look extreme to me. You could flip the drag link and it might be slightly better, but from what you showed on the video it looks like normal movement for a gladiator or a wrangler or any other solid front axle vehicle. The steering wheels are just more active than ifs. If you told me it was darting around everywhere it would be one thing but an active wheel while it still goes straight is just life.
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gearhead22

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None of those look extreme to me. You could flip the drag link and it might be slightly better, but from what you showed on the video it looks like normal movement for a gladiator or a wrangler or any other solid front axle vehicle. The steering wheels are just more active than ifs. If you told me it was darting around everywhere it would be one thing but an active wheel while it still goes straight is just life.
It’ll move on the highway but not obnoxiously. It didn’t throw me to the other lane or anything. But it does move some and I feel it’s not normal. This is my 3rd jeep overall. I’ve had a tj and jk prior and didn’t have this
 

bleda2002

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It’ll move on the highway but not obnoxiously. It didn’t throw me to the other lane or anything. But it does move some and I feel it’s not normal. This is my 3rd jeep overall. I’ve had a tj and jk prior and didn’t have this
That's fair enough then and it probably isn't normal if you've had other jeeps. I will say I feel like my jt and JL move more than my jk does from bumps though. I wonder if it's because of the electric steering pump on them.
 
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gearhead22

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That's fair enough then and it probably isn't normal if you've had other jeeps. I will say I feel like my jt and JL move more than my jk does from bumps though. I wonder if it's because of the electric steering pump on them.
Interesting. I always assumed the newer the jeep should equal better handling lol. Especially with the longer wheelbase of the JT
 

bleda2002

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Interesting. I always assumed the newer the jeep should equal better handling lol. Especially with the longer wheelbase of the JT
I'm specifically talking about the steering wheel, my jt rides better for sure (especially in wind it just shrugs it off), but the wheel itself moves more even as the jeep tracks straight.
 

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ChrisNLA

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The drag link and the track bar move in an arc. A stock Gladiator or Wrangler has the track bar and drag link parallel to the ground so that when the axle moves through its normal range when driving the steering gets pushed very little, if at all. My truck with only a 1.5" level in the front is still very level and I have practically no movement in the steering unless I am crossing some very egregious bumps.

The higher you go, the more severe the angle, and the greater the arc they make when moving. Again, that 3.5" MC lift is closer to 4.5", or even higher, in reality.

I don't think you are experiencing anything abnormal in that video, but the only way to reduce that movement is to get the track bar and drag link to be as parallel to the ground as practical.
 

Gizmo

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It may only 9 degrees sitting still but what is it stock ? It makes a difference which is why I did high steer and slightly stiffer shocks to cut down on the amount of suspension travel on the kind of road imperfections that cause your wheel to rotate like yours is and mine did. Like they say you can lead a horse to water but ya cant make him drink it. It didnt do it when stock so what changed ????
 
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gearhead22

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I'm specifically talking about the steering wheel, my jt rides better for sure (especially in wind it just shrugs it off), but the wheel itself moves more even as the jeep tracks straight.
Mine tracks straight. Definitely feel wind though
 
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gearhead22

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The drag link and the track bar move in an arc. A stock Gladiator or Wrangler has the track bar and drag link parallel to the ground so that when the axle moves through its normal range when driving the steering gets pushed very little, if at all. My truck with only a 1.5" level in the front is still very level and I have practically no movement in the steering unless I am crossing some very egregious bumps.

The higher you go, the more severe the angle, and the greater the arc they make when moving. Again, that 3.5" MC lift is closer to 4.5", or even higher, in reality.

I don't think you are experiencing anything abnormal in that video, but the only way to reduce that movement is to get the track bar and drag link to be as parallel to the ground as practical.
To get the movement that bothers me it requires hitting some pretty big bumps/holes.

It may only 9 degrees sitting still but what is it stock ? It makes a difference which is why I did high steer and slightly stiffer shocks to cut down on the amount of suspension travel on the kind of road imperfections that cause your wheel to rotate like yours is and mine did. Like they say you can lead a horse to water but ya cant make him drink it. It didnt do it when stock so what changed ????
No idea what stock is. It doesn’t look like it’s a super steep angle but I don’t have any way to know. It seems the main reason most places don’t recommend it until 4.5ā€ of lift is because of the reduction in travel below that.

Curious, what tire preassure are you running?
37 bfg ko2 at 32-33 psi cold/35-36 psi warm
 

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37 bfg ko2 at 32-33 psi cold/35-36 psi warm
According to our BFG rep the K02 BF Goodrich All Terrain LT 315/17R should be driven at 1,9 bar so around 27,5 psi, those are 35s. That is also backed by what a very reputable, big-dollar off-road customising shop near us states.
My experience backs this, and the higher the pressure the more squirrely and hoppy the vehicle is.
Now considering 37s, I would reach out and ask, or try maybe running a lower pressure, and play around with it myself and look at a nice even wearpattern and contact.
Just another quality-of-life idea, not that it is going to be a super massive impact, but noticeably nicer to drive on 35s, so I suspect also on 37s
 
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gearhead22

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According to our BFG rep the K02 BF Goodrich All Terrain LT 315/17R should be driven at 1,9 bar so around 27,5 psi, those are 35s. That is also backed by what a very reputable, big-dollar off-road customising shop near us states.
My experience backs this, and the higher the pressure the more squirrely and hoppy the vehicle is.
Now considering 37s, I would reach out and ask, or try maybe running a lower pressure, and play around with it myself and look at a nice even wearpattern and contact
What’s the load range? Higher load range is going to equate to being able to run a lower pressure. D’s and E’s can be run at 30 or lower. The factory load range is C and door jam specifies 37psi. I’m still running a load range C but dropped to 32.
 

PlayfulBird

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What’s the load range? Higher load range is going to equate to being able to run a lower pressure. D’s and E’s can be run at 30 or lower. The factory load range is C and door jam specifies 37psi. I’m still running a load range C but dropped to 32.
It is not so easy to compare, but I will try
In Europe tires load range/index are marked like this - 121S/118S (so for ex.
BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 315/70 R17 121S/118S 10) instead of just saying Load Range E like I am used to seeing in the US.

121 means the load index for single tires which comes out to about 3,197 lbs per tire. 118 is the load index when the tire is run in a dual setup which is about 2,910 lbs per tire. The S is the speed rating which in this case means the tire is good up to 112 mph.

So 121S/118S is basically telling you how much weight each tire can carry and how fast it can safely go. Over here that’s basically the same as a Load Range E tire.

Just keep in mind this particular rating is for 315s, not your 37s.
Reckon still worth trying...
 
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gearhead22

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It is not so easy to compare, but I will try
In Europe tires load range/index are marked like this - 121S/118S (so for ex.
BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 315/70 R17 121S/118S 10) instead of just saying Load Range E like I am used to seeing in the US.

121 means the load index for single tires which comes out to about 3,197 lbs per tire. 118 is the load index when the tire is run in a dual setup which is about 2,910 lbs per tire. The S is the speed rating which in this case means the tire is good up to 112 mph.

So 121S/118S is basically telling you how much weight each tire can carry and how fast it can safely go. Over here that’s basically the same as a Load Range E tire.

Just keep in mind this particular rating is for 315s, not your 37s.
Reckon still worth trying...
Gotcha , mine are 116 load range. Which is 2755lb per tire
 

ChrisNLA

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To get the movement that bothers me it requires hitting some pretty big bumps/holes.

No idea what stock is. It doesn’t look like it’s a super steep angle but I don’t have any way to know. It seems the main reason most places don’t recommend it until 4.5ā€ of lift is because of the reduction in travel below that.
If it takes pretty big bumps / holes then it is almost assuredly related to the angle of the track bar and the drag link. Large bumps are going to push those in large arcs, and in turn, push the steering wheel.

Stock is parallel with the ground, as said before.

Again, I'd bet your truck gained close to 4.5" or more with a 3.5" lift. Metalcloak lifts (and many others) run higher than advertised. I didn't make that number up - we measured it from every Metalcloak lift we installed in our circle that all ran an inch or higher than advertised.

Deciding if you have room to go to hi steer and raise the track bar... just pull the passenger front tire up onto something and fully flex the truck out. If you have enough room on top of the passenger knuckle to flip the drag link before hitting the frame rail, then you are good. Same with the track bar.

The movement you are seeing is 'normal' and is not going away / getting better unless you get the drag link and track bar parallel to the ground, and even then it is going to exist to a small degree.
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