Which two leads to disconnect from Battery for Aux Battery Delete?

[SIO2GA]

It's (almost) the dreaded 3 year mark and my Aux battery is apparently about to die. Hopefully I can delete it and my main battery will last a week or two before it dies. I've read a whole bunch about the Aux. delete in the past and have forgotten most of it since then. My question is which two leads to remove from the main battery that leads to the aux battery? I remember in one of the threads that they said to remove the leads and "trace the lead that goes to the aux battery and disconnect it permanently from the main battery". Instead of tracing the lead I am hoping someone that has done this can tell me which ones they are as that will probably save me a lot of grief. With my luck, the first one I remove after tracing will turn out not to be the right one.
I'll post a picture of my battery tomorrow but I figure that someone may have a photo that shows which leads was removed before tomorrow gets here.
Thanks all!
Rodney

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[SIO2GA]

Here's the battery to my 2023 Gladiator - can anyone tell me which two leads to disconnect and insulate in order to remove the aux. start/stop battery? The auxillary battery never worked right from day one when it was new. It was almost always charging and start/stop not working even though I remembered to turn it off most times. Now that it is almost 3 years the remote start wouldn't work which told me the aux battery was almost dead and slowly ruining the large battery. My plan is to pull fuse 42 and disconnect the aux battery leads from the main battery and insulate and isolate them very well. That will save me (hopefully) from having to remove either battery unless the majority of folks here think that's not a good plan.
I noticed the battery clamps look like the "one time use" type and don't look like they would do well if removed and put back on. If I do have to pull the large battery, is it possible and better to unbolt the leads and leave the battery post clamps on so that they maintain a good connection?
I worked on cars as a teenager - which was forty+ years ago and I'm not adept at working on mechanical things so I want to make this as simple as possible to delete the aux. battery.
Thanks for any help, suggestions and advice!
Rodney

 

[cb4017]

Tagged.

I have the same plan if/when my AUX battery starts acting up.

 

[Bananaman]

Here's the battery to my 2023 Gladiator - can anyone tell me which two leads to disconnect and insulate in order to remove the aux. start/stop battery? The auxillary battery never worked right from day one when it was new. It was almost always charging and start/stop not working even though I remembered to turn it off most times. Now that it is almost 3 years the remote start wouldn't work which told me the aux battery was almost dead and slowly ruining the large battery. My plan is to pull fuse 42 and disconnect the aux battery leads from the main battery and insulate and isolate them very well. That will save me (hopefully) from having to remove either battery unless the majority of folks here think that's not a good plan.
I noticed the battery clamps look like the "one time use" type and don't look like they would do well if removed and put back on. If I do have to pull the large battery, is it possible and better to unbolt the leads and leave the battery post clamps on so that they maintain a good connection?
I worked on cars as a teenager - which was forty+ years ago and I'm not adept at working on mechanical things so I want to make this as simple as possible to delete the aux. battery.
Thanks for any help, suggestions and advice!
Rodney

It looks like you have the Ecodiesel. It would be the one with that yellow/black tag on it. It should also have the larger "tab" that connects to the battery. I just taped mine up real good and zip tied it back away from the battery. Pulled the 42 fuse and left everything intact. Been like that for almost a year, and everything works just fine. (I do have a start/stop device to prevent the engine from stopping at lights) Someday, when I need to replace the main battery, I'll probably pull the aux, just to remove some weight. FWIW...

 

[SIO2GA]

Thanks Bananaman, to be clear: you removed two leads or just the one with the yellow/black tag on it?
And yep, it's an Ecodiesel. 70,000+ miles on it and, knock on wood, no problems. Jeep gets a bad rap on the Gladiators and in my experience the Ecodiesel is great. 24mpg mixed spirited city/hwy and tons of power.

 

[Bananaman]

Thanks Bananaman, to be clear: you removed two leads or just the one with the yellow/black tag on it?
And yep, it's an Ecodiesel. 70,000+ miles on it and, knock on wood, no problems. Jeep gets a bad rap on the Gladiators and in my experience the Ecodiesel is great. 24mpg mixed spirited city/hwy and tons of power.

Yes, just that one ground. It was the easiest way to disconnect the aux. I've seen video's where all the wiring was removed, but I wanted to keep it simple in case I needed to go back to stock, or something didn't work.

 

[SIO2GA]

Tagged.

I have the same plan if/when my AUX battery starts acting up.

this was quick and easy. I left the battery disconnected for over 20 minutes which supposedly is long enough to reset the IBS. No error messages or warnings. This seems to be the way to go. When I zip tied the lead I also zip tied the nut to it so if I ever want to connect it back to visit the dealer I have the nut handy.

 

[Jesse]

The aux batter connects to one of these tabs, each one is fused (the black). Located next to battery. If the fuse is blown, to the aux battery, it will not charge. I've replace mine twice.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I left the battery disconnected for over 20 minutes which supposedly is long enough to reset the IBS.

You need to unplug the small wire connector unless you totally disconnect both batteries.

It looks like you have the Ecodiesel. It would be the one with that yellow/black tag on it. It should also have the larger "tab" that connects to the battery.

Depends on the year - they change it a while back. (unless the change was ONLY for gas, that is)
For gassers - some years, it's the larger tab, for others it's the small one.

 

[SIO2GA]

Shadowspapa, do you mean the "small wires" that come from the IBS? I didn't remove the entire connector that has the IBS attached, and ONLY disconnected the negative main power lead and the negative lead from the aux. battery. With that situation, did the IBS reset?
I actually started to message you the other day before I started this thread but decided that if I posted it publicly that it would help everyone with a similar situation - plus not bother you specifically with it.
Another question I have - for you or anyone that knows - is if the connector that is on the battery posts easy to put back on with a good connection? It looks like a cheap connector that wouldn't handle being taken off and back on very much without getting "sprung" and needing shims and might not have a good connection afterwards.
Next week I will have the money to replace the main battery and I'll likely also disconnect and insulate the positive lead going to the aux. battery when I add the new main battery.
Funds are tight and initially I was going to go with a AGM 94R H7 L4 850 CCA Everstart Maxx for $200 from Wal-Mart but after reading some reviews (including on this forum) I've decided to go with an Odyssey for $336 (after core refund but before tax) from the local NAPA store. Funds are truly tight but I think this will be better as well as cheaper/more economical in the long run. If anyone has any experience with the Odyssey https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ODYODPAGM94RH7 or what might be better, I'd like to hear it
I go to some really desolate places in Arizona/California as well as hard to reach logging roads here in Georgia and really need a dependable battery. I also listen to the radio with the engine off or leave the GMRS radio on for my Daughter when I am off hiking and prospecting. So that's another reason for wanting a single battery that will hold up to leaving the radio on for hours with the engine off. Thanks everyone!
Rodney

 

[Dartboy]

FYI- Costco has the 94R Interstate battery for $180, picked one up yesterday. Topped off the charge overnight, preparing to install in a bit and bypass the Aux at least until the weather warms up (if not forever)

 

[JTGuy]

I did the fuse and the neg disco when I installed my Odyssey battery. No issue .

 

[SIO2GA]

FYI- Costco has the 94R Interstate battery for $180, picked one up yesterday. Topped off the charge overnight, preparing to install in a bit and bypass the Aux at least until the weather warms up (if not forever)

Thanks for the suggestion but as of right now I think I'm going to go with the Odyssey so that hopefully I won't have any problems for 5 years at least. The specs on the Odyssey are pretty impressive as they are a combination deep cycle/starter battery. Supposedly you can run them down 80% (only 20% remaining) for 400 charge cycles. While I won't be doing that even once (hopefully!!) I will be running the stereo or leaving the GMRS radio on for hours , sometimes all day, if the battery doesn't seem to be running down below 12.1 volts. The battery is supposed to be extremely strong in cold temps also. I was hoping to get feedback from a few people here that have bought them in the last few years. I read somewhere awhile back that the company was sold to a new owner and some have said (a few years ago) that they aren't the same. The recent feedback online seems to show that they've went back to being a quality product. I'd feel (a little) better about spending $336 for the battery if a few folks from this forum had good things to say about the battery during the last 5 years. These batteries are supposed to last up to ten years and if it makes it 5 years with no trouble I'll be very happy. That NAPA carries them is somewhat reassuring as they tend to carry quality products.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

FYI- Costco has the 94R Interstate battery for $180, picked one up yesterday. Topped off the charge overnight, preparing to install in a bit and bypass the Aux at least until the weather warms up (if not forever)

If you have an actual Interstate Battery shop near you always call them and ask if they have any “blem” batteries. I’ve been using them for years and the only blem is usually the label. You’ll save lottsa Monies doing that. Around this time last year I bought a battery for an old school Chrysler Pacifica and out the door for less than $90. Even a Group 78 for a truck was very affordable that way.

 

[JTGuy]

Please note;;; I contacted the Interstate Battery store and they said they will not warranty the Costco Interstate battery, only Costco will. It's a battery made for Costco by Interstate . A little more research shows that it's a little lighter than the ones sold by the interstate battery store. A little less lead in it.

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