More on the dreaded AS/S service message...update for anyone else needing this done.

[Labswine]

So, I checked in with my stealership to see how much it would cost to replace both batteries and was told it'll be between $750 and $800 to do the job. Most of the cost is the batteries. He said the main battery was like $300 something and, the Aux battery was $299. I remember replacing a battery with a long warranty for like $120...damn they've gotten expensive

I was also thinking about having my trusted local mechanic do it but, the guy at the stealership told me that they warrant the new batteries for 3 years so...I wouldn't get that from my mechanic so, I guess it's to the stealership to git 'er done.

With my Overland, I'm still on the original factory batteries (ordered 5/19, delivered 7/19) so they're getting on to at least 7 years old so it's probably just the Aux battery aging out. I did check the main battery with everything off and got 11.8 volts so, it's still kickin'.

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[vicsvx]

Personally, I did the aux bypass, Disabled s/s and replaced main battery. No issues. Although it had been proven the s/s does save fuel I feel it is more of a nuisance than anything

 

[Biggy]

Check the batteries independently. 11.8 vdc is not good by the way. That basically dead.

 

[DenCoGladiator]

I bought Duralast platinum elite batteries from a local auto part store for around 450 total. Main battery has a 5 year warranty and aux has 3 year. You could also chose something like optima or odyssey for a bit more money.

There are plenty of videos on YT that you can follow for swapping them out. I went through the wheel well for the aux battery rather than from the top.

 

[Labswine]

Personally, I did the aux bypass, Disabled s/s and replaced main battery. No issues. Although it had been proven the s/s does save fuel I feel it is more of a nuisance than anything

I've thought about that but, my main concern is that systems are so intricately intertwined in cars these days that if I disable one, what else is going to start being glitchy as a result?

I agree that the AS/S is a PITA (pain in the ass) but I've never used mine. The AS/S disable button is the first button pushed after start up.

As far as saving fuel, I live in a more rural area so I have fewer stop/starts than most would in a more urban area so for me, the idea that it saves fuel is a moot point. What I do is when I am sitting at a stop light, I'll flip into neutral. Why? Because when in gear, the strain on the engine tells the computer to add just a scooch more fuel to maintain the 600 RPMs at idle. So, when in neutral, that strain isn't there.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I went with the Aux delete and an Odyessy 94R. Havent had any issues so far. I do have an issue with my backup camera but I don’t think it’s related. Haven’t dug into it yet as it’s not a major concern. 7 years is pretty good for a battery that sees NE winters. The 94Rwill cost $4-500 and it’s an easy job to do yourself.

 

[Jteakus]

I deleted my aux when I pulled into the driveway. Purchased 04/12/2022 battery still kicking.

 

[Mr._Bill]

So, I checked in with my stealership to see how much it would cost to replace both batteries and was told it'll be between $750 and $800 to do the job. Most of the cost is the batteries. He said the main battery was like $300 something and, the Aux battery was $299. I remember replacing a battery with a long warranty for like $120...damn they've gotten expensive

I was also thinking about having my trusted local mechanic do it but, the guy at the stealership told me that they warrant the new batteries for 3 years so...I wouldn't get that from my mechanic so, I guess it's to the stealership to git 'er done.

With my Overland, I'm still on the original factory batteries (ordered 5/19, delivered 7/19) so they're getting on to at least 7 years old so it's probably just the Aux battery aging out. I did check the main battery with everything off and got 11.8 volts so, it's still kickin'.

11.8 volts is in the barely functioning zone. Fully charged with no load should be 12.8 volts. The average lifespan of batteries in the JT is about three years. Most batteries come with a three year warranty. How easy it is to get it replaced under warranty depends on where you buy it. The only advantage of buying from the dealer is the warranty also covers the labor to replace it. You can get a 94R Battery from Walmart for around $160 and as low as $90 for the Aux Battery.

 

[mtudb24]

I've thought about that but, my main concern is that systems are so intricately intertwined in cars these days that if I disable one, what else is going to start being glitchy as a result?

I agree that the AS/S is a PITA (pain in the ass) but I've never used mine. The AS/S disable button is the first button pushed after start up.

As far as saving fuel, I live in a more rural area so I have fewer stop/starts than most would in a more urban area so for me, the idea that it saves fuel is a moot point. What I do is when I am sitting at a stop light, I'll flip into neutral. Why? Because when in gear, the strain on the engine tells the computer to add just a scooch more fuel to maintain the 600 RPMs at idle. So, when in neutral, that strain isn't there.

I'm over 12K miles and 18 months into a AS/S delete by removing the aux neg cable and fuse and no other issues have been noticed. Only issue I had was a loose positive cable at the main battery power array where voltage reading by the truck wasn't the same as at the battery. Simply tighten the 10mm bolt down and all has been fine.
Just my $0.02 worth. Good luck

 

[corey8922]

When I replaced mine my buddy at the battery shop recommended the odyssey battery it’s a bit more money but 0 recycled components. IMO best battery ever!

 

[JoeJeep74]

I replaced main battery with 94 R AGM from Walmart with 4 year total replacement warranty and deleted aux battery at the same time. I use a NOCO battery maintainer also. Did this about 1 year ago on 4 year old 2021. Walmart battery was less expensive and most other batteries available around me were 3 year warranty.

 

[JoeJeep74]

I forgot to add I Taser delete the stop/start monkey business.

 

[KevinM60]

I agree that the AS/S is a PITA (pain in the ass) but I've never used mine. The AS/S disable button is the first button pushed after start up.

There’s also one of these.

https://a.co/d/08BmLgC2

So far I still push the button on startup but this looks like a nice option.

 

[Gatorac]

2020 Sport S that I purchased new. Original battery still going strong. I deleted the aux battery over 2 years ago. I use one of the OBD port AS/S deletes like what's posted above.

I've been worried about the primary battery failing at any time based on what I've seen on this forum. It hasn't happened though. I do try and put a battery tender on it if it's going to be parked for several days. A good battery tender can extend the life of your battery.

 

[vicsvx]

I've thought about that but, my main concern is that systems are so intricately intertwined in cars these days that if I disable one, what else is going to start being glitchy as a result?

I agree that the AS/S is a PITA (pain in the ass) but I've never used mine. The AS/S disable button is the first button pushed after start up.

As far as saving fuel, I live in a more rural area so I have fewer stop/starts than most would in a more urban area so for me, the idea that it saves fuel is a moot point. What I do is when I am sitting at a stop light, I'll flip into neutral. Why? Because when in gear, the strain on the engine tells the computer to add just a scooch more fuel to maintain the 600 RPMs at idle. So, when in neutral, that strain isn't there.

The aux battery is literally only used when the AS/S system is active to power the radio, interior lights, wipers ect. If the AS/S system is not being used, the aux battery is dead weight. More people have issues with the aux battery not holding a charge and consequently drains the main battery causing a mess of issues.

Most who have done the aux bypass properly or done the aux delete/odyssey dual setup have not had any issues. Related to the delete/bypass

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