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Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners.

Jeeperjamie

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I have 35s on a sport s no lift. Works perfect rides like stock but if you set the tire pressure around 28-29 cold it's alot smoother than factory and numbs all the cracks in pavement and small bumps.

Rubicon shocks get removed with small lifts because on a Rubicon with over 1" of lift the shocks need to be longer...

Also over 1" of lift really should get adjustable track bars.

I'm putting a .75" leveling kit on mine and if anything rubs when disconnected I'll trim fenders.

20200410_180600.jpg
Isn't that what shock extensions are for. That's what some of the guys I talked to are using and they still removed the shocks.

I'm particularly just talking about on road driving here because that's what he was asking about not off-roading. I would see removing them and adding longer length shocks if your doing a ton of off-roading. Don't see the benefit for on road driving.
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bastage

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It seems to me that the mopar 2” lift is extremely popular.. That replaces the stock fox shocks and would account for then being sold cheap.
 
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bastage

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I have 35s on a sport s no lift. Works perfect rides like stock but if you set the tire pressure around 28-29 cold it's alot smoother than factory and numbs all the cracks in pavement and small bumps.

Rubicon shocks get removed with small lifts because on a Rubicon with over 1" of lift the shocks need to be longer...

Also over 1" of lift really should get adjustable track bars.

I'm putting a .75" leveling kit on mine and if anything rubs when disconnected I'll trim fenders.

20200410_180600.jpg
Thank you for the input. Your rig is sitting very nice. Kinda second guessing myself for new wheels with 0 offset seeing how clean yours is with the tires inside the fenders there. The Rubi front coils should get me about the same 3/4 of an inch your adding there so they should be pretty damn similar other then the toe poke I’ll end up with.
 
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It seems to me that the mopar 2” lift is extremely popular.. That replaces the stock fox shocks and would account for then being sold cheap.
Yep. It is basically the same exact suspension as stock, just 2" longer on all 4 corners, and with other longer-than-stock parts to recorrect steering, axle, and swaybar geometry.
 

joshua27

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Thats exactly the one I was thinking of. Almost ordered it last night based on it actually being a 1/2" & 1" spacer so it would give me whatever I needed on hand to get to the level I am looking for.
Coming from a Sport I would recommend the rubicon suspension upgrades along with the 1.5" teraflex level. You will clear 35s all day long and it'll ride like butter.

I have a rubicon with the 2.5" RC level with 3/4" daystar spacers in the rear and it rides great also. Probably slightly more lift then you're after though.
 

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Rough Country 2.5" Lift with Dual Steering Stabilizer . 35X12.50R20 Tires.

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Good looking rig. :like:

I almost bought those same tires, but in a 37x13.50r20, but got an amazing deal on the Kumho Road Venture MT KL71’s, that I couldn’t pass up. I was looking at those bumpers on Amazon as well. But ended up going with the Fab Fours Stubby.
 

SofloJT

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I have a sport s (non max tow) with 2.5" Skyjacker suspension lift G251PBLT with a jks adjustable track bar on 35x12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and 20x12 Tis 544bm rims -44 offset. Zero rubbing or trimming. Rides great, I highly recommend this setup. The lift comes with all new coil springs and shocks, currently on sale from Morris 4x4 for like $400. I wouldn't run spacers when you can get a real lift kit for near the same price. When getting an alignment make sure you go to a good shop that will install a camber/caster sleeve. Crappy franchise shops will tell you that you can only adjust the toe. They are wrong. Fyi I powder coated my coils blue, they come black.

Jeep Gladiator Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners. 20200409_191149
 

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Yep. It is basically the same exact suspension as stock, just 2" longer on all 4 corners, and with other longer-than-stock parts to recorrect steering, axle, and swaybar geometry.
Springs are different, and the Rubicon Fox Shocks are not the same as Fox Performance Series 2.0 shocks, so it’s not really the same as stock. Many people find the rear Rubicon Fox Shocks too soft.
 

jbrx87

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1.) I have been told the same... Some say the springs provide lift, some say it doesn't... I have no idea. But I know my stock Rubicon with factory 285/70r17 Wilpeak M/T's sat noticeably higher than a stock JT in any other trim model, so I have no idea.

2.) The Mopar lift won't get rid of the rake... It lifts both front & rear 2".

3.) Take a look at the Skyjacker G250MSB 2.5" front, 1.0" rear spacer lift. It's what I have on my JTR, and I'm clearing 37's with no issues. So, you should be able to clear 35's without a problem. It's budget-friendly, and you can pick one up on eBay for about $350. Saves you plenty of cash for your tires and front-end alignment. :like:

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I did this lift as well and it rides great, can't really compare it to stock because I didn't put many miles on it stock. I just couldn't justify throwing away brand new shocks and springs. Depending on your wheel set up 35s do rub a bit on the max tow bumper.
 

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I went with the Mopar 2” lift, 17x9 +1MM/5” backside Fuel Covert wheels and 35x12.50-17 Fuel Gripper M/T tires. The ride is super nice and the stance is just about right for me.
Jeep Gladiator Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners. 240696D7-F4DC-4F6F-A8C4-CB9B55347AB1
Jeep Gladiator Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners. B6A8C3D2-DE66-4544-8C67-4D2A924CC3FF
 

steelponycowboy

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So over the last 48 years I've built 36 Jeeps for my own personal use. The JT will be #37 and probably my last (I'm getting too old for this stuff ;-) ) I made plenty of mistakes early on mostly because there just wasn't as much after market out there so you kind of did things by trial and error. One thing I don't like is spacer lifts, all they do is give you height but nothing on performance. A proper lift if you want a true alignment done afterwards is one with 8 adjustable control arms and those kits aren't cheap. My rule of thumb is like others have said, cheap and right don't go together well. I've seen too many poorly done Jeeps to save money. I always tell people who ask for advice when buying Jeeps is if you don't know the person you bought it from and know that it was done right, buy a stock one and do it right yourself. Budget lifts will end up costing you more money in the long run
 
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bastage

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Budget lifts will end up costing you more money in the long run
this is what I am always most afraid of.

it doesn’t sound like I’ll have a problem with the Rubi coils and a small spacer up front to level it though. Or is there a better way to get it leveled with preserving stock or better ride
 

tysongladiator

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Ok, here's my two cents!

I bought my JT in June 2019. Had the 2" Mopar lift installed along with a 3/4" spacer up front to remove the rake. I almost didn't add the spacer, but I knew that I was going to add and aftermarket bumper and winch which would add weight, so it leveled out. It rides better than it did stock, sits higher, and handles good. The cool thing is that when I'm towing my boat or my trailer, it doesn't give me the Carolina Squat!

It handles pretty good offroad. I mean, it's not a cadillac. Lol. But it holds up! Handles good on the road when I have my tire pressure around 32psi. I added quick disconnects for flexing when off road.

I'm happy with the kit. That fact that it included new springs, control arms, and end links did it for me. I figured everything was manufactured with the fact that they wanted JT owners to retain most of the factory geometry with their lift kit.

Jeep Gladiator Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners. 93418559_2939274872853424_4299942422906929152_o
 

steelponycowboy

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The "rake" in all Wranglers since the JK seem to be there for cargo weight so that when it's loaded, it will sit flat. That worked well until I decided to build a fully equipped overland vehicle and then my rake was reversed so I had to go with heavier springs in the back, despite my Rugged Ridge XHD bumper and a 12K winch up front.

When you add some height with a spacer it doesn't take into account weight. I say a JK recently with what looked to be a 2" spacer and because of the weight of his aftermarket bumper and winch, the springs had compressed so much that there was very little space between them. A pure example of someone being cheap and creating a nightmare for the next owner. It's always better to lift with the proper spring.
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