Overall who's pretty pleased with the power output of their Gladiator

[Jeepnoob34]

It's not putting money down... When you lease, you have residual. My lease over the next 42 months will net me paying $22K towards the negotiated price of my JTR. So, when my lease is up, I will only owe about $28K on my JTR with low miles that I've had since brand new. So I will be well over $15K in the positive with used market value of the JTR, and will be WELL into the black. So, that $22K I paid for my lease all went towards the price of the Jeep. So when my lease is up, and I buy it out with a loan, I will only owe $28K or so. I will be so far ahead, that I can afford to do the 6.4 SRT Hemi swap and all that, and not ever be upside-down in the Jeep. Because the Hemi-swapped Jeeps bring in the big bucks (if I ever decided to sell it), and instead of buying a new factory-offered Hemi JTR for (I'm guessing it would cost about $75,000-80,000 for one brand new from the factory), I'll only be paying a payment for $28K loan, and still have my 6.4 SRT Hemi swapped JTR.

Make sense now?

I get what your saying. I just got confused when ya mentioned the lease payments going towards your truck. All we’re doing is paying for the depreciation of the vehicle. You could also look at the residual on your vehicle and compare that to other similar used jtr’s on the market. Value may be actually worse in 42 months and you’d get a better deal with another dealer. I know there’s something to be said for keeping your own jtr, since you know it’s history.

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[bastage]

I am happy with mine. Running 315/70r17's & still getting above 17mpg (only one tank since changing the tires).

I will say though that there isnt really a premium. When you look at the starting price for gladiator vs ranger vs colorado, vs tacoma sure it seems like it. But when you add in that every gladiator is a crew cab & has 4wd, adding those same options to the competition the gladiator isnt really much higher if any. So its only really paying a premium if you were getting a 2wd 2door something else or the gladiator.

 

[jwilson2899]

Very happy with the performance on mine. Plenty of get up and go, and will run away from my old JKU with 3.6 and my 3rd Gen Tacoma.

 

[aj8544]

Very happy with mine. Its no race car, but on a daily basis I dont feel a real need for anything more.
I also have a 2018 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost and 10 speed trans. The F150 ecoboost is crazy powerful and scary quick for a 1/2 ton, but the 10 speed is clunky and not as enjoyable as the Jt’s 8. The 3.6 and 8 speed is so smooth, and I was pleasantly suprised last weekend towing my boat up and down our fingerlakes hills. Ive added an AFE Rockbasher, no clue if it adds anything significant for power (doubt it), but the sound sure makes you think it does!

 

[#HuckleberryJeep]

No complaints here.

 

[remlemasi]

Very happy with mine. Its no race car, but on a daily basis I dont feel a real need for anything more.
I also have a 2018 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost and 10 speed trans. The F150 ecoboost is crazy powerful and scary quick for a 1/2 ton, but the 10 speed is clunky and not as enjoyable as the Jt’s 8. The 3.6 and 8 speed is so smooth, and I was pleasantly suprised last weekend towing my boat up and down our fingerlakes hills. Ive added an AFE Rockbasher, no clue if it adds anything significant for power (doubt it), but the sound sure makes you think it does!

Exactly right. The 8 speed is the key. I’d rather have less power and a killer transmission than more power and a transmission that makes me want to kill myself.

I hate Toyota transmissions. Worst shift programming ever all in the name of MPG. From a stop, it will quickly shift up up up until I am OUT of the power band. I’m not even done getting up to my desired speed yet and the engine has run out of gusto! It requires me to then floor the stupid electronic pedal to convince the computer that I’m not done accelerating yet. At this point, the transmission downshifts TWO gears, the engine comes back to life screaming (it was never a bad engine) and my passengers think I’m nuts.

 

[aj8544]

It's not putting money down... When you lease, you have residual. My lease over the next 42 months will net me paying $22K towards the negotiated price of my JTR. So, when my lease is up, I will only owe about $28K on my JTR with low miles that I've had since brand new. So I will be well over $15K in the positive with used market value of the JTR, and will be WELL into the black. So, that $22K I paid for my lease all went towards the price of the Jeep. So when my lease is up, and I buy it out with a loan, I will only owe $28K or so. I will be so far ahead, that I can afford to do the 6.4 SRT Hemi swap and all that, and not ever be upside-down in the Jeep. Because the Hemi-swapped Jeeps bring in the big bucks (if I ever decided to sell it), and instead of buying a new factory-offered Hemi JTR for (I'm guessing it would cost about $75,000-80,000 for one brand new from the factory), I'll only be paying a payment for $28K loan, and still have my 6.4 SRT Hemi swapped JTR.

Make sense now?

Im not sure this logic works out. Leasing companies are usually pretty good at predicting what the residual value will be at lease end- hard to believe they would miss the mark by $15k. Now if you are not driving it at all to keep the mileage way under the lease to stay ahead on residual you need remember the money factor. Essentially you are looking at the lease as a down payment on the buyout loan- all leases have a money factor which means you are paying interest on that down payment, especially since its a long 42 month lease. You would be better off to save for 42 months and just put money down (although I do not recommend putting that much down due to risk if totalled). Also where are you accounting for the massive cost of the hemi swap? Not knocking your decision, I just dont think it will work out quite as lucratively as planned.

 

[jeepdan]

I was very satisfied with performance of the 2016 JKU that I traded.

My new Gladiator is even better. I have to pay attention to keep from speeding.
Like others have already mentioned, the 8 speed auto probably makes the most difference.
And, 2 more MPG than my stock JKU.

 

[Factoid]

I’m a whiner and at 63 require, shit have earned, instant gratification. I agree with all that the 3.6 coupled with the 8sp auto is pretty damn good and can do most anything.

I put about 200 miles on mine and then replaced the 3.6 and tranny with a 6.4 hemi and stronger 8sp. The difference is night and day, even with the eye watering cost and fuel mileage. I don’t plan on ever letting it go (until my kids take away my keys, probably won’t be able to lift the giant key fob at that point anyway).

Frankly, this is an option that should have been available OEM. I prefer driving it to my 2019 Porsche Cayenne S that I bought when I retired for the second time (couldn’t stay away, so now working of number 3). I traded my 2015 MB CLS63 in on the Porsche and sold my 1987 LR Defender on BaT after replacing the anemic turbo diesel (19J) with an LS and 6sp auto from a 2012 Camaro and one of my 1964 Corvettes to buy and upgrade the Gladiator. If I had any hesitation, it is completely gone as I just ticked over 4,000 glorious miles.

All of that said, the stock 3.6 is an excellent engine and I would have been very happy with it, except I’m a speed lunatic.

 

[whiteglad]

you just had the wrong Porsche..

Just put 37's and rock rails on the Porsche and see how it does on the trails, lol!

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Im not sure this logic works out. Leasing companies are usually pretty good at predicting what the residual value will be at lease end- hard to believe they would miss the mark by $15k. Now if you are not driving it at all to keep the mileage way under the lease to stay ahead on residual you need remember the money factor. Essentially you are looking at the lease as a down payment on the buyout loan- all leases have a money factor which means you are paying interest on that down payment, especially since its a long 42 month lease. You would be better off to save for 42 months and just put money down (although I do not recommend putting that much down due to risk if totalled). Also where are you accounting for the massive cost of the hemi swap? Not knocking your decision, I just dont think it will work out quite as lucratively as planned.

You basically just said exactly what I just said, but in different terminology.

As for the "you'd be better off" statement, my interest rate is based on a percentage of the overall cost of the Jeep, so it comes out to around 2.9% when you do the math...Way cheaper than any loan will be...Even when I do finally buy it out.

The $10-15K was a number I was estimating that the value of my JTR will still be holding if I were to buy a used one with that low of miles in 3.5 years. I estimate that if things go the way the past models have, the JTR's with low miles (under 15,000) will still be upwards of $40K, maybe higher, due to inflation of new prices (which go up EVERY year), which also increase used prices.

Also, I never said this was a foolproof plan. I just said it's what I hope and think will happen.

 

[smlobx]

Just put 37's and rock rails on the Porsche and see how it does on the trails, lol!

‘Don’t laugh!
Porsche has a long and successful history in Offroad racing...

Here’s a video about the Trans Siberia Rally in 2008

 

[Jeepnoob34]

You basically just said exactly what I just said, but in different terminology.

As for the "you'd be better off" statement, my interest rate is based on a percentage of the overall cost of the Jeep, so it comes out to around 2.9% when you do the math...Way cheaper than any loan will be...Even when I do finally buy it out.

The $10-15K was a number I was estimating that the value of my JTR will still be holding if I were to buy a used one with that low of miles in 3.5 years. I estimate that if things go the way the past models have, the JTR's with low miles (under 15,000) will still be upwards of $40K, maybe higher, due to inflation of new prices (which go up EVERY year), which also increase used prices.

Also, I never said this was a foolproof plan. I just said it's what I hope and think will happen.

Haha. I think we were all talking about the same thing but with different words lol. All good.

 

[aj8544]

You basically just said exactly what I just said, but in different terminology.

As for the "you'd be better off" statement, my interest rate is based on a percentage of the overall cost of the Jeep, so it comes out to around 2.9% when you do the math...Way cheaper than any loan will be...Even when I do finally buy it out.

The $10-15K was a number I was estimating that the value of my JTR will still be holding if I were to buy a used one with that low of miles in 3.5 years. I estimate that if things go the way the past models have, the JTR's with low miles (under 15,000) will still be upwards of $40K, maybe higher, due to inflation of new prices (which go up EVERY year), which also increase used prices.

Also, I never said this was a foolproof plan. I just said it's what I hope and think will happen.

I understand- but how do you keep yourself from driving it? My JT is 3 months old and 4k miles in. Its supposed to be my 2nd/ weekend truck, but I cant make myself drive my other truck instead... No way I could make 3.5 years under 15k miles, hell I‘d do that in just ice cream trips!

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I understand- but how do you keep yourself from driving it? My JT is 3 months old and 4k miles in. Its supposed to be my 2nd/ weekend truck, but I cant make myself drive my other truck instead... No way I could make 3.5 years under 15k miles, hell I‘d do that in just ice cream trips!

That's easy... I have a work truck that I drive 5 days a week to and from work, I don't hardly ever do anything after work (because I average 12 hour+ days), and if I do, it's within a 8 mile range, and I haven't been on vacation in over 5 years, and none of my fiends ever do shit anymore, so it's pretty easy when you have no life outside of work.

I bought mine on March 7, and I don't even have 750 miles on it.

I bought my 2017 Mustang GT brand new in July 2017, and as I drove it onto the lot on March 7, 2020, it rolled 12,000 miles on the clock...

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