AEV 2" spacer lift for Mojave Gladiator

[kevman65]

I would, adding back in caster is definitely a good idea if you lift the JT. Another option is getting the LCAs from the Mopar lift kit, they are available for about $120 for the pair

Just over $60 a pair @AllMoparParts.com

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[Clv22p]

Just over $60 a pair @AllMoparParts.com

Is there any advantage of the correcting brackets vs the longer arms? $60 vs nearly $300.

Edit: found my own answer.

Anyone not knowing what Geo brackets actually do, read this. Direct from AEVs website.

“AEV’s Front Control Arm Drop Brackets pack a lot of suspension performance improvements into a small and affordable package. These drop brackets will improve front impact ride quality (expansion joints, ledges), increase anti-dive for improved braking performance, decrease the operating angle range of the front driveshaft, and eliminate the need for adjustable control arms or cam bolts for caster correction. AEV Front Control Arm Drop Brackets are included in all AEV 3.5″/4.5″ DualSport suspensions, but can also be added to AEV’s 2.5″ DualSport suspension as well as other manufacturer’s suspensions. See Tech Specs for more details.

Key Benefits:

– Improve front impact ride quality (expansion joints, ledges) – By reducing the operating angle of the front control arms, the suspension is allowed to work in a more natural state. This means that when hitting a bump, the force applied to the control arms is directed up into the springs instead of back directly into the frame. In effect an AEV 3.5″ lifted JK “thinks” its lifted only 1.25″.
– Change the instant center to increase Anti-Dive for improved braking performance – By increasing the anti-dive geometry of the suspension, you’ll notice the front of the vehicle will barely drop under hard braking when the control arm brackets are used. By increasing force on the front wheels, traction is increased for better straight line braking and by reducing the shifting weight and inertia under braking in curves, handling is greatly improved.
– Decrease the operating angle range of the front driveshaft – This one is often overlooked. Aftermarket double cardan joints do not have the torque rating (1850lb/ft for t a 1310 double cardan, 2150 lb/ft for the OE CV Joint) and they can’t run as smoothly so its advantageous for most JK use to keep the stock CV units. The Front Control Arm Brackets rotate the pinion up as the axle drops to eliminate torn boots on the CV for long life with a lifted application.
– Eliminate the need for adjustable control arms or cam bolts for caster correction – We’ve been touting the benefits of using the stock control arms for a long time because of the pre-loaded rubber OE Bushings that the factory uses, and because that quality has yet to be rivaled in any aftermarket bushing. These new brackets allow for the proper caster ranges to be achieved.
Please note: Adjustable Control Arms are not a replacement for drop brackets – Its often misunderstood that higher priced adjustable control arms have the same effect as AEV’s control arm brackets and that the brackets are just a cheaper option than providing adjustable control arms. Nothing could be farther from the truth, both components do separate and different things and both have their place under a Jeep. Both products can adjust the castor angle which is where much of the confusion stems from.

AEV’s drop brackets change four distinct parameters:

– Lowers arm angle for ride quality.
– Lowers the instant center for better braking (antidive).
– Decreases operating angle of the driveshaft by reducing the range of travel.
– Corrects caster angles.
Adjustable control arms can certainly allow the proper caster angle to be dialed in, however they are incapable of all the other parameter changes, and in fact make the instant center, ride quality and driveshaft angles all worse than stock. Adjustable control arms can do some things that the drop brackets can not:

– Move the axle position forward or aft which may be required with aftermarket HD axles.
– Change the pinion angles for aftermarket Cardan or Double Cardan driveshafts.
– Correct minor deviations in suspension geometry after an accident with mild frame damage.

 

[KurtP]

Is there any advantage of the correcting brackets vs the longer arms? $60 vs nearly $300.

The brackets provide better anti dive and emergency lane change dynamics over longer control arms themselves.

How much that matters has to be decided by each individual. I went with both.

 

[kevman65]

Wow, all I did was point people to where the MOPAR longer LCA's were cheaper.

 

[Clv22p]

AEV kit ordered. Now to try and decide if I want 35s or 37s. I think I’ve read all 1289 threads on 35 vs 37 and still don’t know which to do.

35s are more logical for me. Its my daily driver. I drive 25k a year, tow a 3000lb trailer a few times a month. But 37s just look so good. And it’s cool to say you have 37s! Haha

If I do 37s it will be the KO2s.

I’d really like to stay on stock wheels as I really like the styling, but don’t know if that’s possible.

 

[kevman65]

AEV kit ordered. Now to try and decide if I want 35s or 37s. I think I’ve read all 1289 threads on 35 vs 37 and still don’t know which to do.

35s are more logical for me. Its my daily driver. I drive 25k a year, tow a 3000lb trailer a few times a month. But 37s just look so good. And it’s cool to say you have 37s! Haha

If I do 37s it will be the KO2s.

I’d really like to stay on stock wheels as I really like the styling, but don’t know if that’s possible.

Try ordering your new tires, you're going to be on OEM's for awhile.

 

[MoparMadness]

AEV kit ordered. Now to try and decide if I want 35s or 37s. I think I’ve read all 1289 threads on 35 vs 37 and still don’t know which to do.

35s are more logical for me. Its my daily driver. I drive 25k a year, tow a 3000lb trailer a few times a month. But 37s just look so good. And it’s cool to say you have 37s! Haha

If I do 37s it will be the KO2s.

I’d really like to stay on stock wheels as I really like the styling, but don’t know if that’s possible.

The BFG KO2s run small, get 37s for sure in that tire. Its about the size of other 35s and will still fit in the spare tire location. You should also get new wheels. You can sell the factory wheels and tires to help pay for them. You need the correct size wheel and offset for proper tire clearance and handling. When you lift a vehicle, you should be making it wider by about the same amount to help keep center of gravity. The correct new wheels will do this for you.

 

[Clv22p]

The BFG KO2s run small, get 37s for sure in that tire. Its about the size of other 35s and will still fit in the spare tire location. You should also get new wheels. You can sell the factory wheels and tires to help pay for them. You need the correct size wheel and offset for proper tire clearance and handling. When you lift a vehicle, you should be making it wider by about the same amount to help keep center of gravity. The correct new wheels will do this for you.

Thank you for your input. If I do the BFGs it was for sure going to be a 37. I guess it’s basically do I want to do “x” brand 35 or a BFG 37.

I’m a first time Jeep owner. I’ve always lowered everything I’ve owned, it’s kinda weird going up! ?

 

[MoparMadness]

Thank you for your input. If I do the BFGs it was for sure going to be a 37. I guess it’s basically do I want to do “x” brand 35 or a BFG 37.

I’m a first time Jeep owner. I’ve always lowered everything I’ve owned, it’s kinda weird going up! ?

Good tires will cost more but pay off in terms of quality. The KO2s will be silent, comfortable, wear well, provide excellent traction, are durable and light tires. Combined with a light wheel, you will not notice a big change in power and can keep the same axle ratio.

 

[spence]

Thinking the same thing, I have the AEV lift now in a box. Ordered the rims (Savegre II).

Now I am trying to decide on tires. Plan on towing around 3500-4000lbs. Was thinking the BFG KO2 37". Loading rating is E for 35" and D for 37" A little concerned about the 37"s being spongy.

Anyone with experience either way?

 

[Clv22p]

The D load range is more than enough. If they feel spongy you can add a little air.

 

[MoparMadness]

Thinking the same thing, I have the AEV lift now in a box. Ordered the rims (Savegre II).

Now I am trying to decide on tires. Plan on towing around 3500-4000lbs. Was thinking the BFG KO2 37". Loading rating is E for 35" and D for 37" A little concerned about the 37"s being spongy.

Anyone with experience either way?

I felt a bit more ride harshness going from the factory C rated tires on my Rubicon to the 37 BFG KO2s D rated but lowered the air pressure to about 32 to get rid of it. I avoided getting E rated tires because they will ride harsh. I have used E rated on other Jeeps and know what they feel like. And, E rated tires are not needed on this vehicle in terms of weight capacity.

 

[Panther69]

About to order. Should I get Geometry correcting brackets too?

I'm going to.

 

[Clv22p]

I'm going to.

I am getting them too.

 

[EXTORTION]

When installing the AEV Mojave 2" Spacer Kit is there a need to also install F&R Adjustable Track Bars to keep things centered. May also keep my 1" Leveling block up front and .75 Leveling block in the rear.

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