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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

obz

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Looks great. What products did you use? What is your process, if you don't mind explaining please.
Same. This is another one of those scary projects that seems to take forever and a lot of care. Seeing as most places want over a grand it’s a reasonable skill to learn.
I keep it relatively simple...
  1. I start with a regular 2 bucket wash. Clean it up real good.
  2. Next I do a clay bar to remove any contaminants. This is a new Jeep so I wasn't expecting much, but still got a few areas that were a little 'dirty'. I use my soap canon as lubricant and then run the clay bar over all the panels.
  3. Next up is a spotless rinse (I have a deionizer)
  4. Then dry.
  5. Tape off all black plastic/rubber areas so I don't get fling from the dual action polisher. Most of the polish/compound that I use will discolor it so I try to keep it away.
  6. On new cars, I like to do a pretty aggressive polish but not a compound. IMO not needed and don't want to remove too much clear on brand new paint. (I find 'pro's' almost always take a compound to new paint - stupid IMO since in my experience 99% of the time it's not needed)
  7. Follow the polish up with a ceramic prep solution (Wolfgang makes one called Perfekt Paint Prep) that strips all oils and waxes from the paint
  8. Ceramic is the final step. Nice even strokes on a 2X2 area and let flash then buff off with a good microfiber towel.
  9. Let sit for 24 hours and it's good to go!
I exclusively use Wolfgang Concourse products. Very good reputation and easy to use for the DIY'er. I have a pretty decent DA for polishing (Flex XC3401) and have about every pad under the sun. I ceramic coat all my cars on my own and have saved thousands of dollars by learning myself. Sure it takes time (I average ~8 hours all in - the Gladiator took about 12) but I know it's done right and I save a ton of money and it lasts years. It's not hard at all, just takes time.
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USMC-SSGT

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Nice!

Probably the first person I have seen to properly use a toque angle gauge.
It was 111ftlbs and 90°. I only did 110 and a very loose 90. Still counts though.
 

TotallyReasonable

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Added the 3/4” coil spacers to the rear. Was sitting too high in the front with the RC 2.5 spacers. Now it looks level. So easy. Found the dreaded RR axle seal leak. Cleaned it with Brakeclean and took out a bunch of that fiber fill that the vent had in it. Will check it going forward prior to a visit to the dealer.
Before 3/4” spacer
6A408263-4AA4-4DCD-971F-02A643EBD348.jpeg

After
11D8C172-D0E4-4705-B7D4-20E451AC9788.jpeg
This looks great! I have the 2.5" RC kit in the front too, with the daystars for the rears on the shelf waiting for a nice day to get installed. Running the 32"s that come with the willys, wanting to go to 37s w/ regear soon. Have you had any problem with rubbing offroad with this setup?
 

Hootbro

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It was 111ftlbs and 90°. I only did 110 and a very loose 90. Still counts though.
I installed Teraflex arms on mine and their instructions list the factor torque spec plus degree angle but also listed an approximate ft-lb spec with the degree torque angle factored.

Still was a pain doing it on the ground .
 

USMC-SSGT

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I installed Teraflex arms on mine and their instructions list the factor torque spec plus degree angle but also listed an approximate ft-lb spec with the degree torque angle factored.

Still was a pain doing it on the ground .
Nothing is worse than the front lowers. On your back with no leverage trying to hit ~190
 

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Guns_N_Rosaries

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Didn't want to make a new thread just for this question, and it kind of fit here:

Does anyone know about how long you have before removing the decals on a Jeep leave a non-faded spot? I'm thinking about removing the "Willys" on the sides of my hood, and every tutorial I've seen shows that the paint underneath the old decals is still brighter. I've only had mine for about 4 months, so I'm hoping I should still be good.
 

pixeldecals

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Didn't want to make a new thread just for this question, and it kind of fit here:

Does anyone know about how long you have before removing the decals on a Jeep leave a non-faded spot? I'm thinking about removing the "Willys" on the sides of my hood, and every tutorial I've seen shows that the paint underneath the old decals is still brighter. I've only had mine for about 4 months, so I'm hoping I should still be good.
I would say you are in good shape. Unless you have had the jeep under a constant UV lamp for 4 months.
 

Hootbro

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Didn't want to make a new thread just for this question, and it kind of fit here:

Does anyone know about how long you have before removing the decals on a Jeep leave a non-faded spot? I'm thinking about removing the "Willys" on the sides of my hood, and every tutorial I've seen shows that the paint underneath the old decals is still brighter. I've only had mine for about 4 months, so I'm hoping I should still be good.
You should be fine given that short of time
 

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RalphTuttle

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I had the Mopar Auxiliary Switches installed today at the Jeep dealer in Raleigh. Yes, I paid through the nose to have it done by the dealer - but it keeps my warranty intact. I see people commenting on here all the time about having electrical issues. IF at some point in the future I have any type of electrical problem, I didn't want the dealer saying my warranty is no good because I installed the switches myself.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_0129[1].JPG
 
 







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