3.6L ESS Battery Cable Diagram

[dayusmc]

Unfortunately the N2 part of the jumper is under the fuses, so not easy to take off. The oart under the N1 on top doesn't have a part number that I can see.

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[Hootbro]

Benny has seemed to disappeared... He hasn't been on since Feb 14. I PMed him a couple times to see if my non-Tinted OEM rear windows have come (I ordered them like 5 weeks ago), but no reply.

Need someone with a active Tech Authority Subscription to look at the IPC in that system to see if it gives that level of detail. I have a suspicion it is going to be consider an attachment of another whole assembly and might not be a separate stock item.

All else fails, there is tinned and un-tinned copper bus bar stock on Amazon that should not be that hard to fabricate one.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

@ShadowsPapa
This is why I have been having such a hard time understanding all these Aux Battery Delete threads. It seemed like most of them are creating extra loops that are not needed. Of coarse when I say I am trying to do it like the factory did it in the Ram trucks with no Aux battery or the eTorque Jeeps with no Aux battery, well you know the replys I got on that, just pull the fuse, don't bother taking the wires out, etc... That is just not the way I do things. Yes it is good for most that do not want to do the exact work, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I did it that way...
So now that it is time to replace my original batteries in my Mojave, I am doing the delete.
If I can buy that factory jumper strap separately, then no need to buy the whole z case fuse block. If I can't and the only way to get it is to buy the whole z case fuse block, so be it, I will buy it and have an extra z case fuse block for my Jeeps.
My plan is to hopefully get the original N1 to N2 strap if someone can help me find the part number, because I can't find it. Move the direct battery cable to N1 and install the N1 to N2 jumper. Remove all the extra wires battery wires. Unplug and remove the PCR. I am also installing the Genesis battery relocation tray at the same time, mostly because I think it is a cleaner design.
Only thing now is the N1 to N2 strap, so if anyone is good looking at those diagrams online and can help, it would be really helpful. I am really bad at finding that stuff on line. I spent a few hours so far and can't find it...

I get it..
And I tried to word carefully - I am not, as I sit now, inclined to remove or change or delete anything - however, if I were - I'd prefer following along like you.
I hate the extra wiring hanging around, sticking out. I even used the N8 post to connect to my wife's window-up module for power. And I plan on in the future making my power step installs a bit cleaner than they are. I want no extra wires on the battery terminals if I can avoid it. That's one reason my winch cutoff solenoid terminal acts like a junction to get plow power from - one single cable to the battery positive, not 2.

 

[dayusmc]

Once I am able to buy this jumper piece and the Genesis battery tray comes in I will start a new thread with what I did and pictures.

 

[dayusmc]

Update on this piece. Benny did some digging and this connector bar is only available with the PDC. So for $250, I am going to skip it and buy the other cable I was talking about.
I also found a Z cage fuse array listed in the diagrams that was only $20. I am going to buy that with my next order because I have an idea I want to test out.
For my truck I am buying the power cable from the eTorque and adding it in. But that is expensive, so as I am doing this I am searching for other cheap alternatives that also give a factory look. Once my parts come in, I will start a thread with my findings.

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