3.6L ESS Battery Cable Diagram

[dayusmc]

Unfortunately the N2 part of the jumper is under the fuses, so not easy to take off. The oart under the N1 on top doesn't have a part number that I can see.

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[Hootbro]

Benny has seemed to disappeared... He hasn't been on since Feb 14. I PMed him a couple times to see if my non-Tinted OEM rear windows have come (I ordered them like 5 weeks ago), but no reply.

Need someone with a active Tech Authority Subscription to look at the IPC in that system to see if it gives that level of detail. I have a suspicion it is going to be consider an attachment of another whole assembly and might not be a separate stock item.

All else fails, there is tinned and un-tinned copper bus bar stock on Amazon that should not be that hard to fabricate one.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

@ShadowsPapa
This is why I have been having such a hard time understanding all these Aux Battery Delete threads. It seemed like most of them are creating extra loops that are not needed. Of coarse when I say I am trying to do it like the factory did it in the Ram trucks with no Aux battery or the eTorque Jeeps with no Aux battery, well you know the replys I got on that, just pull the fuse, don't bother taking the wires out, etc... That is just not the way I do things. Yes it is good for most that do not want to do the exact work, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I did it that way...
So now that it is time to replace my original batteries in my Mojave, I am doing the delete.
If I can buy that factory jumper strap separately, then no need to buy the whole z case fuse block. If I can't and the only way to get it is to buy the whole z case fuse block, so be it, I will buy it and have an extra z case fuse block for my Jeeps.
My plan is to hopefully get the original N1 to N2 strap if someone can help me find the part number, because I can't find it. Move the direct battery cable to N1 and install the N1 to N2 jumper. Remove all the extra wires battery wires. Unplug and remove the PCR. I am also installing the Genesis battery relocation tray at the same time, mostly because I think it is a cleaner design.
Only thing now is the N1 to N2 strap, so if anyone is good looking at those diagrams online and can help, it would be really helpful. I am really bad at finding that stuff on line. I spent a few hours so far and can't find it...

I get it..
And I tried to word carefully - I am not, as I sit now, inclined to remove or change or delete anything - however, if I were - I'd prefer following along like you.
I hate the extra wiring hanging around, sticking out. I even used the N8 post to connect to my wife's window-up module for power. And I plan on in the future making my power step installs a bit cleaner than they are. I want no extra wires on the battery terminals if I can avoid it. That's one reason my winch cutoff solenoid terminal acts like a junction to get plow power from - one single cable to the battery positive, not 2.

 

[dayusmc]

Once I am able to buy this jumper piece and the Genesis battery tray comes in I will start a new thread with what I did and pictures.

 

[dayusmc]

Update on this piece. Benny did some digging and this connector bar is only available with the PDC. So for $250, I am going to skip it and buy the other cable I was talking about.
I also found a Z cage fuse array listed in the diagrams that was only $20. I am going to buy that with my next order because I have an idea I want to test out.
For my truck I am buying the power cable from the eTorque and adding it in. But that is expensive, so as I am doing this I am searching for other cheap alternatives that also give a factory look. Once my parts come in, I will start a thread with my findings.

 

[PsyRN]

The cable marked 2020 is the ground for the aux battery in 2020 model year, and the cable marked 2021+ is the aux cable ground for 2021 and later.

None of the videos I saw mention the difference between 2020 and 2021+ models for which connection to remove. They all showed the 2021+ connector. I figured my aux battery was dying since the ESS light came on and in the past that's been my experience, even though this battery is less than 2 years old. I tried this yesterday and everything went blank and pulled the wrong connection and everything went black. I put it back and viola! it all worked again. and the ESS light went off the cluster and hasn't come back on. Not sure what happened, but maybe it wasn't the Aux battery after all.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

None of the videos I saw mention the difference between 2020 and 2021+ models for which connection to remove. They all showed the 2021+ connector. I figured my aux battery was dying since the ESS light came on and in the past that's been my experience, even though this battery is less than 2 years old. I tried this yesterday and everything went blank and pulled the wrong connection and everything went black. I put it back and viola! it all worked again. and the ESS light went off the cluster and hasn't come back on. Not sure what happened, but maybe it wasn't the Aux battery after all.

The ESS error light (what some call the "Avengers" light - although I have no frame of reference to know what that even means), the A surrounded by a semi-circle and exclamation point, can come on for a multitude of reasons. Can be a battery problem (either battery, actually), or any of several other things.
If you have a good AGM charger and the time to deal with it - you can charge each battery independently while leaving the IBS disconnected and off to the side. That will force it to reset and start over determining battery health for the crank battery and let the aux battery start with a full charge - to see if it's going to hold that or gradually diminish again.
You may have reset a problem code?! in your processes.

This is how I charged the aux battery independently on my 2020 back then. Note the red/positive charger clamp on the crank battery positive because it still leads back down to the aux battery, and the black charger clamp on the negative lead that goes directly down to the aux battery (directly like a cat walking from one room to the other - taking a side trip here and there) ->

 

[PsyRN]

The ESS error light (what some call the "Avengers" light - although I have no frame of reference to know what that even means), the A surrounded by a semi-circle and exclamation point, can come on for a multitude of reasons. Can be a battery problem (either battery, actually), or any of several other things.
If you have a good AGM charger and the time to deal with it - you can charge each battery independently while leaving the IBS disconnected and off to the side. That will force it to reset and start over determining battery health for the crank battery and let the aux battery start with a full charge - to see if it's going to hold that or gradually diminish again.
You may have reset a problem code?! in your processes.

This is how I charged the aux battery independently on my 2020 back then. Note the red/positive charger clamp on the crank battery positive because it still leads back down to the aux battery, and the black charger clamp on the negative lead that goes directly down to the aux battery (directly like a cat walking from one room to the other - taking a side trip here and there) ->

I think I spoke too soon. my light came on again.

 

[XraytecH]

Why this vs pulling F42

 

[m1n0t4rr]

I wrapped the negative and pulled the fuse and now have the A! autostart dashlight? I don't think this is right? 2020 Rubicon... any help would be appreciated

 

[Mr._Bill]

I wrapped the negative and pulled the fuse and now have the A! autostart dashlight? I don't think this is right? 2020 Rubicon... any help would be appreciated

It shows that the Main Battery has issues.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It shows that the Main Battery has issues.

Yes. My bet is the aux battery is fine and was supporting the main battery which is going bad.

Last week, my wife's Jeep was flashing "aux switches not available, battery charging". It came and went. She drove as we shopped and made several stops, driving at least 45 minutes. It stopped doing that after almost getting back home.
Two days later, she took her jeep out and it did it again on her way to town - stopped on the way back home.
I checked the battery - it started at 12.7 and after 10 or 15 minutes, dropped to 12.0 volts.

Many people would say her Wrangler has an aux batter issue. However, her Wrangler has no aux battery - it's a 4xe. The main battery is going bad after 2 years.

 

[Gee Man]

I've noticed there's not as much ESS battery information here as on the Wrangler forum. So here's my diagram of the ESS battery cabling, based on the JL, but I'm pretty sure the JT is the same.

Edit 1/22/2022 - updated diagram

There's more information here https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-dual-battery-consolidated-information.25377/

Thank you. The reason I was asking is instead of making a jumper from N3 to N1, I was think of just getting the same fuse block as my wife's eTorque, I am not worried about the cost, just want it as clean as possible.
Another question, I know we can pull that fuse so the computer isn't doing that test. Could we also just unplug the wire from the PCR valve, or would that throw a code?

THANK YOU SO MUCH! even the dealer couldn't tell me.

 

[Gee Man]

Yes. My bet is the aux battery is fine and was supporting the main battery which is going bad.

Last week, my wife's Jeep was flashing "aux switches not available, battery charging". It came and went. She drove as we shopped and made several stops, driving at least 45 minutes. It stopped doing that after almost getting back home.
Two days later, she took her jeep out and it did it again on her way to town - stopped on the way back home.
I checked the battery - it started at 12.7 and after 10 or 15 minutes, dropped to 12.0 volts.

Many people would say her Wrangler has an aux batter issue. However, her Wrangler has no aux battery - it's a 4xe. The main battery is going bad after 2 years.

ITs in warranty.

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