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6,500 miles oil life still 32%

foo.c

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Mine is at ~6200 miles and 21% left. That would be a point in favor of a more complex algorithm and not purely mileage based. I'll make an appointment with the dealer next month to get it changed, it will probably be around 10-15% if I had to guess.

I really don't plan on doing anything special for this engine ever. No early oil changes, no early maintenance. If it blows up under warranty following the recommended maintenance schedule, it doesn't bother me. If it blows up out of warranty it's V8 time.
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ecidiego

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WILDHOBO

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Help me understand how this thing calculates its oil life.
I just turned over 6500 miles and I still have 32% left?

Iā€™ve only ever gone over 5,000 with synthetic oil. Is thatā€™s whatā€™s in this from the factory?
It will be totally different, depending on the types of driving. Mine was ready to change at just over 5k, but we tow and off-road a lot, so itā€™s harder driving than many people. When it gets driven less hard, you get more oil life for your miles.
 

CraigE

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A little off topic but maybe not. For those of us who do our own oil changes, do you drain the oil when itā€™s warm or let the engine sit overnight and drain it when itā€™s cold?
 

ShadowsPapa

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A little off topic but maybe not. For those of us who do our own oil changes, do you drain the oil when itā€™s warm or let the engine sit overnight and drain it when itā€™s cold?
Always warm. Thick cool oil doesn't drain as fast or as completely. Warm it up.
Ever tried to get cold syrup out of the bottle?
I do it when the engine is as warm as I can handle having my hands close to the hot engine parts.
 

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CraigE

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Always warm. Thick cool oil doesn't drain as fast or as completely. Warm it up.
Ever tried to get cold syrup out of the bottle?
I do it when the engine is as warm as I can handle having my hands close to the hot engine parts.
Maybe 30 years ago. 0-20w oil is a different beast.
 

jac04

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Hootbro

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Maybe 30 years ago. 0-20w oil is a different beast.
It is not just the oil itself but the suspension of contaminant in warm oil evacuate more than a cold oil when drained.

Given all the other things that affect engine life, I think the difference in draining warm or cold is negligible and it is more important with keeping a decent change interval over time than worrying about cold vs. hot drains.
 
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ecidiego

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Maybe I'm not looking in the correct spot on line, but the spec sheet still only shows "recommended for use in applications requiring" MS-6395.
Yeah, that's the spec required.
 

jac04

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Yeah, that's the spec required.
Right, but it still states "recommended for use in applications requiring" MS-6395, which is how it has been for some time. It doesn't state that it actually meets the spec.
 

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ecidiego

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Right, but it still states "recommended for use in applications requiring" MS-6395, which is how it has been for some time. It doesn't state that it actually meets the spec.
Wasn't there last year:

https://web.archive.org/web/2020092.../products/mobil-1-extended-performance-0w-20/

It meets the spec. There is no way the Pentastar is some special unique engine that can't use Mobil 1. The fact that the spec is now in the literature means you are compliant with owners manual recomendations.
 

jac04

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There is no way the Pentastar is some special unique engine that can't use Mobil 1.
Agreed, I didn't state that the Pentastar couldn't use Mobil 1. The question is whether or not it actually has formal approval or certification that it meets MS-6395.

If Mobil 1 EP 0W20 is certified to meet MS-6395, then I'm just wondering why Mobil lists MS-6395 under "recommended for use in applications requiring" and not under "product has the following approvals" or "product meets or exceeds the requirements of"?
 

jac04

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It meets the spec.
^^ I just confirmed that this is wrong. Not my opinion, just a fact.

I received confirmation directly from Mobil that Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 does NOT currently meet MS-6395, but the approval process is underway.
 

Maximus Gladius

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I changed mine at 500 miles to get the factory stuff out. Will do it at 3-5000 with full synthetic. Texas is too hot to let it go for too long. Funny, when i changed the oil at 500,the ticking noises from the motor went away. Amsoil for life :)
FCA will void your warranty using AMSOIL, in Canada. They just voided my whole drivetrain warranty for using it. Iā€™m in a battle right now to have my warranty reinstated. Donā€™t believe me because AMSOIL says ā€œwarranty secureā€? This time theyā€™ve bullied the wrong person.

FCA case# 81528319.
 

Sazabi19

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I said this recently either on this forum or another automotive forum, but after my break in oil change (ca. 1K miles), I change "on the 5s" (odometer readings ending in multiples of 5K, ie. 5K, 10K, 15K). It lines up with the heavy duty use cycles on most vehicles, is easy to remember and record, etc. Covers your bases in a number of dimensions without any real work or difficulty. I've also used Blackstone on vehicles in the past. I'm probably going to skip the free oil changes so that I can have a Blackstone record from new just for shits and giggles.
You can still have them do your free changes but ask them to skim a vial for you as they do it. Someone over at my other forum for my car did that. A rep from Blackstone was on the site and offering people services for free to try it out (I think, hell maybe it was Penzoil offering it, to compare my oil plus a new fill of theirs aftre my next change). Either way, you can always try and see?

After my changes are done (last 1 coming up in April, I'm really low on miles, 11.3k @ 18mo, so do it ever 6mo) I'm going to switch to Quaker State, from everything I've read it gives the best performance.
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