Adjustable Component Options w/Clamps and Not Jam Nuts

[JeepOfTheseus]

I'm done with jam nuts. I hate trying to "jam" them down only to have the bar spin and change lengths or get stuck at an odd/extreme angle. I hate the popping that happens after they inevitably come loose.

I've been scouring for options that use clamps, with the intent to replace everything: tie rod, drag link, track bars, and all control arms. There is an urgent focus on replacing the drag link so I can center my steering wheel, but I'd like to plot a course to correctness over time. Here's what I've found so far:

Synergy:

• Makes all the components, providing for a complete matching set using the same single bolt clamp design (which torques to 90 ft/lbs)
• The front track bar has poor reviews on NorthRidge, citing fitment issues, albeit very dated
• Not a fan of the sleeve nuts being so far at the edge of the track bars
• ~$500 more for a complete set than any other option

SteerSmarts:

• Seems quite popular/well received (have a local JT friend who runs and is happy with them)
• Track bar clamps are near the center, which seems to prevent the sleeve nuts from interfering with the mounting brackets
• Clamp bolts all torque to 40-45 ft/lbs (except for front track bar at 65-70) - seems low, but I assume it's been tried and tested
• No control arms available

TeraFlex:

• Like Synergy, they make every component with a matching dual bolt clamp design, except for the tie rod
• Tie rod uses the jam nut design that I hate - I'm planning to contact them to see why and if they would consider an updated design with clamps
• Clamps all use 2 smaller bolts that torque to 60 ft/lbs, or 30 ft/lbs for the control arms - seems low, but the redundancy/spread load seems nice
• Haven't heard much about people running these components - I know the lift kits/spacers are popular, but not sure about these

I'm torn: TeraFlex had me sold 95% of the way until the jam nuts on the tie rod. My strongest lean is towards SteerSmarts steering (tie rod & drag link), with the remaining being TeraFlex. The biggest benefit is zero jam nuts, and I think the SteerSmarts tie rod also has factory-like mounting locations for the steering stabilizer (at least my friend's did). The other option is all TeraFlex and start with the pressing matter at hand (the drag link) with hopes they will update the tie rod design by the time I get to it. I'm not really leaning towards Synergy unless someone can tell/convince me they fixed the fitment issues.

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[PuddleJumper]

I'm done with jam nuts. I hate trying to "jam" them down only to have the bar spin and change lengths or get stuck at an odd/extreme angle. I hate the popping that happens after they inevitably come loose.

I've been scouring for options that use clamps, with the intent to replace everything: tie rod, drag link, track bars, and all control arms. There is an urgent focus on replacing the drag link so I can center my steering wheel, but I'd like to plot a course to correctness over time. Here's what I've found so far:

Synergy:

• Makes all the components, providing for a complete matching set using the same single bolt clamp design (which torques to 90 ft/lbs)
• The front track bar has poor reviews on NorthRidge, citing fitment issues, albeit very dated
• Not a fan of the sleeve nuts being so far at the edge of the track bars
• ~$500 more for a complete set than any other option

SteerSmarts:

• Seems quite popular/well received (have a local JT friend who runs and is happy with them)
• Track bar clamps are near the center, which seems to prevent the sleeve nuts from interfering with the mounting brackets
• Clamp bolts all torque to 40-45 ft/lbs (except for front track bar at 65-70) - seems low, but I assume it's been tried and tested
• No control arms available

TeraFlex:

• Like Synergy, they make every component with a matching dual bolt clamp design, except for the tie rod
• Tie rod uses the jam nut design that I hate - I'm planning to contact them to see why and if they would consider an updated design with clamps
• Clamps all use 2 smaller bolts that torque to 60 ft/lbs, or 30 ft/lbs for the control arms - seems low, but the redundancy/spread load seems nice
• Haven't heard much about people running these components - I know the lift kits/spacers are popular, but not sure about these

I'm torn: TeraFlex had me sold 95% of the way until the jam nuts on the tie rod. My strongest lean is towards SteerSmarts steering (tie rod & drag link), with the remaining being TeraFlex. The biggest benefit is zero jam nuts, and I think the SteerSmarts tie rod also has factory-like mounting locations for the steering stabilizer (at least my friend's did). The other option is all TeraFlex and start with the pressing matter at hand (the drag link) with hopes they will update the tie rod design by the time I get to it. I'm not really leaning towards Synergy unless someone can tell/convince me they fixed the fitment issues.

Following cus i want answers about this too.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Frankenstein is not an option?

My .02 would be to go aluminum for your Tie rod unless you do not off road.
https://doetschoffroad.com/t/steering

Does not meet your jam nut criteria but in my opinion this is a bigger issue with control arms than steering.
Keep us posted with your saga! I appreciate the same adjustability your looking for

 

[HooliganActual]

Personally, I run all Steer Smarts front ends on both of my JKUR’s (which are my “serious” wheeling tools) and have never had an issue with them. My JTR's steering components are still stock and will be until something needs replaced and then it will be upgraded to Steer Smarts.

I agree with @Escape.idiocracy about the aluminum tie rod from Doetsch. My buddy went that route on his JKUR after I had upgraded mine to Steer Smarts and I really wish I had gone that way. It’s what I will eventually do with the JTR.

If you are frustrated with the jam nuts, why not change you “jamming” process? Red Loctite. Put red loctite on the threads as you run the jam nut up. Get it tight and let the loctite do its thing.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Frankenstein is not an option?

My .02 would be to go aluminum for your Tie rod unless you do not off road.
https://doetschoffroad.com/t/steering

Does not meet your jam nut criteria but in my opinion this is a bigger issue with control arms than steering.
Keep us posted with your saga! I appreciate the same adjustability your looking for

Not strictly opposed. I'm generally a fan of staying within a brand if they are consistent and offer what I need, but I've also learned my lesson that it isn't necessarily a net positive (Core4x4).

I can take a look at Doetsch, but I'm pretty strong minded about eliminating jam nuts as much as possible. I went with aluminum on the Apex Chassis stuff, and yes...that would be preferable, but I think I hate jam nuts more than I love aluminum.

Personally, I run all Steer Smarts front ends on both of my JKUR’s (which are my “serious” wheeling tools) and have never had an issue with them. My JTR's steering components are still stock and will be until something needs replaced and then it will be upgraded to Steer Smarts.

I agree with @Escape.idiocracy about the aluminum tie rod from Doetsch. My buddy went that route on his JKUR after I had upgraded mine to Steer Smarts and I really wish I had gone that way. It’s what I will eventually do with the JTR.

If you are frustrated with the jam nuts, why not change you “jamming” process? Red Loctite. Put red loctite on the threads as you run the jam nut up. Get it tight and let the loctite do its thing.

Good to hear about SteerSmarts. Regarding loctite...I did think about that, and I think I tried once (not to say it didn't hold, just that the idea occurred to me). For me, the frustration is not only keeping it tight, but getting it tight to begin with. Whenever I go to crank down the jam nut, things start flopping around - I'd like all the joints to be parallel/straight when it's sitting even instead of being at an extreme/max angle before I even start driving.

 

[HooliganActual]

For me, the frustration is not only keeping it tight, but getting it tight to begin with. Whenever I go to crank down the jam nut, things start flopping around - I'd like all the joints to be parallel/straight when it's sitting even instead of being at an extreme/max angle before I even start driving.

Ryan (I assume it's Ryan based on the username),

I'm not sure what your mechanical background is and please don't take this as "Jeeps-plaining" (I think I just invented the Jeep version of man-splaining there). If this is already known to you, then maybe it will help someone else...

I think you can a) trust jam nuts if you b) change your process. FWIW, I'll tell you a bit of my background so that you'll know where I'm coming from. I'm a retired engineer that spent half my career working in the nuclear power sector and half in the manufacturing sector, I retired as the Director of Reliability for a Fortune 50 company responsible for 70+ facilities and I have owned/modified/worked on Jeeps for 40 years, currently owning 2 JKUR's and a JTR.

Here's my thought/coaching: jam nuts are perfectly fine to use in these applications and have been forever; but there is a limitation with them and it centers around how mechanical fasteners are designed to work. A typical bolt/nut setup develops what is known as clamping force by placing the bolt under tension. When you torque the bolt, you are actually "stretching" the bolt which then works like a rubber band and creates the necessary clamping force to hold whatever together. The Jam Nut can't actually create the same tension in the bolt (or in the case of your track bar, the rod end) because of how close the jam nut is to the rod end lands. It's almost an inevitability that any jam nut will come loose as vibration forces act on it.

Since you can't actually create "real" tension between the jam nut and the rod end, a product like LocTite (and for this application I would recommend Red over Blue) will create the frictional forces within the jam nut threads that will prevent it from backing off with vibrational forces...I mean that is literally why they make the stuff and essentially what every nylon insert nut does as well.

Since you can't create actual tension, don't try. Don't try to honk on that jam nut, rather get it nice and snug with red LocTite in the threads.

As for your concern of having all the joints parallel and not at a severe angle before driving, you can literally rotate everything back even if you have moved them while tightening the jam nut. I've always been able to just rotate everything back up by hand; but if it's too tight you could use a strap wrench or a pipe wrench or an old fan belt to rotate things back into position.

Your concerns are understandable but I think they are also manageable, especially when you consider that so many of the products out there use the jam nuts and those options become severely limited if you exclude that style.

Food for thought,
Cheers

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Ryan (I assume it's Ryan based on the username),

It is ?

I'm not sure what your mechanical background is and please don't take this as "Jeeps-plaining" (I think I just invented the Jeep version of man-splaining there). If this is already known to you, then maybe it will help someone else...

I have a general understanding, but by no means an expert: I'm here to learn and try to understand if I'm doing something wrong since jam nuts are so common.

I think you can a) trust jam nuts if you b) change your process. FWIW, I'll tell you a bit of my background so that you'll know where I'm coming from. I'm a retired engineer that spent half my career working in the nuclear power sector and half in the manufacturing sector, I retired as the Director of Reliability for a Fortune 50 company responsible for 70+ facilities and I have owned/modified/worked on Jeeps for 40 years, currently owning 2 JKUR's and a JTR.

Here's my thought/coaching: jam nuts are perfectly fine to use in these applications and have been forever; but there is a limitation with them and it centers around how mechanical fasteners are designed to work. A typical bolt/nut setup develops what is known as clamping force by placing the bolt under tension. When you torque the bolt, you are actually "stretching" the bolt which then works like a rubber band and creates the necessary clamping force to hold whatever together. The Jam Nut can't actually create the same tension in the bolt (or in the case of your track bar, the rod end) because of how close the jam nut is to the rod end lands. It's almost an inevitability that any jam nut will come loose as vibration forces act on it.

Since you can't actually create "real" tension between the jam nut and the rod end, a product like LocTite (and for this application I would recommend Red over Blue) will create the frictional forces within the jam nut threads that will prevent it from backing off with vibrational forces...I mean that is literally why they make the stuff and essentially what every nylon insert nut doeas as well.

Since you can't create actual tension, don't try. Don't try to honk on that jam nut, rather get it nice and snug with red LocTite in the threads.

As for your concern of having all the joints parallel and not at a severe angle before driving, you can literally rotate everything back even if you have moved them while tightening the jam nut. I've always been able to just rotate everything back up by hand; but if it's too tight you could use a strap wrench or a pipe wrench or an old fan belt to rotate things back into position.

Your concerns are understandable but I think they are also manageable, especially when you consider that so many of the products out there use the jam nuts and those options become severely limited if you exclude that style.

Food for thought,
Cheers

TBH, that's what I figured is going on...torquing in the traditional sense is literally stretching the bolt (I understood that). I think you're right that I'm trying to compensate for that inability to create tension by honking on it, which is likely leading to my other issues/frustrations.

I think I'll take a step back and correct by using red loctite and just snug things up instead of overthinking it.

 

[Gizmo]

Funny how people use loctite. First thing I did to each set of Savvy Arms on my TJs was disassemble the arms and apply synthetic disc brake lube in the tubes and on the threads of the JJs. Never had a jam nut come loose in 15-20 years and the JJS are still fine and never removed. You can hang on the wrench like a gorilla once you master the technique for tightening . Beware it requires the same or bigger gorilla to loosen some days.

 

[JTGuy]

I replaced a set of great quality aluminum TR & DL with the jam nut system. The TR jam nuts came loose twice. Hard to use lock tight on items with anti seize on them. Aluminum is a great item to use but I like the hardened chrome-molly steel on the TR that Synergy uses and their adjustment system is used throughout their products. The front track bar has been on mine for many months now and it fits fine. Synergy is not owned by one of the giant corps like the others. If you want info you just call them and they knowable about what they sell and can defend their engineering. Just look up the word Synergy in the dictionary.

 

[HooliganActual]

Funny how people use loctite. First thing I did to each set of Savvy Arms on my TJs was disassemble the arms and apply synthetic disc brake lube in the tubes and on the threads of the JJs. Never had a jam nut come loose in 15-20 years . You can hang on the wrench like a gorilla once you master the technique for tightening . Beware it requires the same or bigger gorilla to loosen some days.

FWIW, I absolutely agree with you here. My experience has always been that I just honk on those jam nuts and they have never come loose. If anything, I've found that there is never enough anti-seize and the jam nuts wind up rusting in place and then will certainly not back off...and then you need the bigger gorilla to get them off. Sort of like exhaust manifold bolts, lol.

But I think for someone that is having a problem where the jam nuts keep coming loose, then some thread lock may be suitable; but it comes with its own set of problems...

Cheers

 

[WILDHOBO]

I'm done with jam nuts. I hate trying to "jam" them down only to have the bar spin and change lengths or get stuck at an odd/extreme angle. I hate the popping that happens after they inevitably come loose.

I've been scouring for options that use clamps, with the intent to replace everything: tie rod, drag link, track bars, and all control arms. There is an urgent focus on replacing the drag link so I can center my steering wheel, but I'd like to plot a course to correctness over time. Here's what I've found so far:

Synergy:

• Makes all the components, providing for a complete matching set using the same single bolt clamp design (which torques to 90 ft/lbs)
• The front track bar has poor reviews on NorthRidge, citing fitment issues, albeit very dated
• Not a fan of the sleeve nuts being so far at the edge of the track bars
• ~$500 more for a complete set than any other option

SteerSmarts:

• Seems quite popular/well received (have a local JT friend who runs and is happy with them)
• Track bar clamps are near the center, which seems to prevent the sleeve nuts from interfering with the mounting brackets
• Clamp bolts all torque to 40-45 ft/lbs (except for front track bar at 65-70) - seems low, but I assume it's been tried and tested
• No control arms available

TeraFlex:

• Like Synergy, they make every component with a matching dual bolt clamp design, except for the tie rod
• Tie rod uses the jam nut design that I hate - I'm planning to contact them to see why and if they would consider an updated design with clamps
• Clamps all use 2 smaller bolts that torque to 60 ft/lbs, or 30 ft/lbs for the control arms - seems low, but the redundancy/spread load seems nice
• Haven't heard much about people running these components - I know the lift kits/spacers are popular, but not sure about these

I'm torn: TeraFlex had me sold 95% of the way until the jam nuts on the tie rod. My strongest lean is towards SteerSmarts steering (tie rod & drag link), with the remaining being TeraFlex. The biggest benefit is zero jam nuts, and I think the SteerSmarts tie rod also has factory-like mounting locations for the steering stabilizer (at least my friend's did). The other option is all TeraFlex and start with the pressing matter at hand (the drag link) with hopes they will update the tie rod design by the time I get to it. I'm not really leaning towards Synergy unless someone can tell/convince me they fixed the fitment issues.

For control arms, Teraflex Alpine “IR” is the only way to go. I too dumped all of mine for bushing and jam nut garbage. They’re truly amazing. I have steersmarts drag link and tie rods and have zero complaints.

 

[WILDHOBO]

For control arms, Teraflex Alpine “IR” is the only way to go. I too dumped all of mine for bushing and jam nut garbage. They’re truly amazing. I have steersmarts drag link and tie rods and have zero complaints.

The only things I have left with jam nuts are the two track bars. They haven’t loosened, but with the teraflex control arms, I also never need to touch them. Everything else I have is clamps. I was SICK AND TIRED of squeaks and knocks due to Johnny joints and jam nuts. I don’t touch them at all anymore. And you can do lift changes without loosening them. No more torquing on the ground. Torque them whenever you want. They’re game changing.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Not strictly opposed. I'm generally a fan of staying within a brand if they are consistent and offer what I need, but I've also learned my lesson that it isn't necessarily a net positive (Core4x4).

I can take a look at Doetsch, but I'm pretty strong minded about eliminating jam nuts as much as possible. I went with aluminum on the Apex Chassis stuff, and yes...that would be preferable, but I think I hate jam nuts more than I love aluminum.



Good to hear about SteerSmarts. Regarding loctite...I did think about that, and I think I tried once (not to say it didn't hold, just that the idea occurred to me). For me, the frustration is not only keeping it tight, but getting it tight to begin with. Whenever I go to crank down the jam nut, things start flopping around - I'd like all the joints to be parallel/straight when it's sitting even instead of being at an extreme/max angle before I even start driving.

If you off road- the metal memory for your tie rod is really my only driver. Bent tie rods suck, and a winch can only field straighten so good

 

[WILDHOBO]

If you off road- the metal memory for your tie rod is really my only driver. Bent tie rods suck, and a winch can only field straighten so good

I wheel as hard as most, or harder than most. My steersmarts tie rod has helps up fine. I bent a drag link end slightly once. It affected it almost none. I replaced the end without even removing it.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I wheel as hard as most, or harder than most. My steersmarts tie rod has helps up fine. I bent a drag link end slightly once. It affected it almost none. I replaced the end without even removing it.

My point wasn’t a matter of “how hard” one wheels…. As much as bumping into rocks or onto rocks with the tie rod- it just happens. And when it does- steel bends vs aluminum usually bends back….
As to your choice- I have a steer smarts pro drag link- good stuff, and happy so far. Had synergy on our JKU and favored its adjustability but not the paint flake/rusting ends, or heims that never made it past 20k ??‍


Here is a fun video explaining my point.

I should add though- we can beef every component on the Jeep up….. but something is still going to break. So I’d rather replace a tie rod end vs a knuckle… so sometimes beefing can move a broke. $80-120 tie rod end to a new set of knuckles for $600, same with a drive shaft- rather replace a u-joint than a transfer case…. Always need a weak link built in somewhere.

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