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All differences between Rubicon and Sport with Max Tow?

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Is this something that could be added to a sport?
Don't know if the wiring harness is there in a non-rubi model... So, no idea.
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If you’re going to run 40’s you’ll need to re-gear or you won’t be able to get out of your own way....

Then you’ll need to upgrade your brakes etc., etc., etc.
37's is about the biggest I'd go on a daily driver. Maybe a 38 tops...

And even with 37's re-gearing to 4.88 would be a good idea...4.56 minimum.
 

JRobes

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For me, the $8k-$10k difference over the Sport S Max Tow wasn't worth it for the few things I REALLY wanted from the Rubicon, diff locks being the primary item. I was going to lift mine which negates most of the Rubi's suspension advantage, can easily add JKS quick swaybar disconnects, and would be upgrading wheels/tires/bumpers anyways beyond what the Rubi comes with. That leaves the fenders, hood, and LED lights which I absolutely would have got.

Is this something that could be added to a sport?
As far as I know, as long as you get the cargo management group on the sport (and possibly the center console ports? https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/usb-in-the-back-of-the-center-console.28332/page-2), that'll get you the inverter under the driver side dash. I'm not sure if the inverter is the same between rubi/overland and the sports, but I'd wager it is. If that's the case, you'd then just need to run the second wire from the inverter to the center console and add whatever ports you want there, whether that be the mopar ones or aftermarket. Now, if those center console ports on the rubi/overland actually integrate to the u-connect, it would be much more complex.
 
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ACAD_Cowboy

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fair point, i should have said “in large part”
Well I suppose if we are gonna get all pedantic about it, the springs are designed based on the selected options, what gm used to tout as "computer selected".
 

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PyrPatriot

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Well I suppose if we are gonna get all pedantic about it, the springs are designed based on the selected options, what gm used to tout as "computer selected".
tell me more, please. I was under the presumption, based on so many discussions here on the topic, that the springs in the max tow contributed greatly to the towing due to tongue weight
 
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37's is about the biggest I'd go on a daily driver. Maybe a 38 tops...

And even with 37's re-gearing to 4.88 would be a good idea...4.56 minimum.
The reason I am leaning in the direction of 40s is due to some of the issues I've seen when running trails like the Rubicon where the overhang on the back end keeps the vehicle from navigating some of the obstacles without being winched, the examples I saw that had that problem were running 37" tires. Similar builds that had 40" tires were able to do the same thing without resorting to using the winch. I'm simply trying to overcome the deficiencies of the gladiator's departure angle, if I were running a JLU instead, I'd probably do 37s.
 
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The reason I am leaning in the direction of 40s is due to some of the issues I've seen when running trails like the Rubicon where the overhang on the back end keeps the vehicle from navigating some of the obstacles without being winched, the examples I saw that had that problem were running 37" tires. Similar builds that had 40" tires were able to do the same thing without resorting to using the winch. I'm simply trying to overcome the deficiencies of the gladiator's departure angle, if I were running a JLU instead, I'd probably do 37s.
With the powerloss, definitely re-gear to at least 5.13 gears with 40" tires to keep you in the sweet-spot of the power band with that transmission and engine.
 

sass JT

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Sounds like your looking to make a rock crawler by your responses. Here’s my .02

get the sport, spend the money for built axles, atlas transfer case, lift of your choice, 40s or bigger tires, beadlocks, front steering components ie trackbar, draglink, hydro steering and skid plates. Interior, upgrade seat covers and aftermarket radio. And any other goodies.

If you get the rubi your gonna throw away money. Might as well start small and make it awesome from there.

again my .02
 

LostWoods

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The payload and towing differences come from the fixed GVWR limit and the equipment differences between the two, not simply springs etc.

Almost exactly - it's a 360lb difference in curb weight and a 375lb difference in payload.

Rubicon (AT)

Curb Weight: 5,072lbs.
Payload: 1,160lbs.

Sport Max Tow (AT)
Curb Weight: 4,712lbs.
Payload 1,535lbs.
 

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LostWoods

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The NVG241OR (rock trac) rubicon transfer case is a brute with the 4:1 low range. It is deep, real deep. Is it too deep? Hard to say. I happen to like low range and high gears for passable but trying conditions. A neat trick is the 2Low selector from Teraflex , https://teraflex.com/shop_items/jk-241or-2low-2wd-low-range-shift-sector-kit , lets you select 2H-4H-N-2L-4L for all the benefits of low range and differential lockers in rear wheel drive for far better steering and all the grunt.

Myself I'd rather have 4:1 versus excessive wheel spin at bad times. But my trails aren't your trails so its your choice.
Would you happen to know if that is truly a Rubicon only thing or would it work on the other 241's? I'd love to be able to kick out into 2L for tighter turns but I haven't cracked open a Jeep transfer case since the TJ days.
 

ACAD_Cowboy

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Per Teraflex its "only" listed for the NVG241OR and "only" for the JK/JKU.

Best to reach out to them and clarify if that means only only or just only because we never updated the website listing because honestly we don't sell a lot and we are surprised you even remembered it.

I would assume its specific to the OR and would fit any JK/JL/JT so equipped.
 

ACAD_Cowboy

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Missing are steps 1 and 2, remove and split case respectively.

They have a 2 low for the 231 transfercase as well so I'm confidant it can be done.
 

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If your going with 40's just plan on a sport S because you'll need new axles, gearing, complete suspension with new control arms, etc. if you were planning on staying near 37's or under the rubicon is a clear winner.
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