Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing.

[kb5zcr]

I think yall are on to something here. Ill be watching this thread. Thanks to the OP for this info.

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[Jefe1018]

Interested to see how this proceeds. Summer trips to what’s left of the lake makes me cringe atm.

 

[JLMOPARMAN]

M22 1.5 to 10AN fittings... May try to install one, clearance it and install the other but they won't go directly in.

 

[@californiajeeping]

M22 1.5 to 10AN fittings... May try to install one, clearance it and install the other but they won't go directly in.

Unfortunately it is just bypass or in paralell to the oem oil flow, correct?

 

[Madtom]

I think making a block off plate with the 2 ports. An external amsoil dual filter setup and a cooler with fans. Done deal. Make the oil temps independent of coolant and double your filtration and way more cooling. Now if only it fit in a bumper or something well protected.

Has anyone completed either the blockoff plate or the bung adapter for an oil cooler......

There was a guy on the ram forums that built an adapter to go into the oil filter housing that completely eliminated/bypassed the filter ASSY and he installed the AMSOIL remote universal filter/bypass unit

..although he didn't install a cooler in line it would be easy to do if completed like that.

there are multiple ways to success here. I am hoping that someone comes up with one more brilliant than my hodgepodge knowledge lol. Last time I owned a diesel it was a GMC 2500 and there were really no emissions for heavy trucks then.

if this doesnt work out I plan on getting a oil pan and putting in a separate system for towing only would use a pump like https://rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm. this would pump oil from pan, thru a filter, a cooler and back to a return fitting at a higher level in the pan. This could be rigged to a temp switch or just hard wired in for use when towing.

My build finally has a D1 status so hopefully someone will have a path forward that I can adapt/use when my JTURD gets here later this year.

 

[NCJL]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/ecodiesel-power-derating-as-temps-rise.45447/


I started posting in the thread around page 44. Lots of good info thru the entire thread.
The highlights of what I verified through my own personal testing.

RPM’s below 2K is the most economical way to keep oil temps low.

The oil filter housing has an oil T-Stat that does not open until 240*. I actually never got flow thru the factory oil cooler when testing with pressure gauge. I was only able to get the temps in the low 230* while testing. Under heavy load the oil temps rise fast until about 240* then slowly increase from there. Pictures of a new oil cooler housing posted in the thread mentioned show what looks like a TStat in the center of housing.

Ambient temps do not play as big a roll as I thought. Driving thru TX panhandle, instant change from 90* to 60* had no noticeable effect on engine temps. I was monitoring very closely due to derating on that trip. Low RPM’s, below 2K was the only thing that keep temps low.

 

[Madtom]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/ecodiesel-power-derating-as-temps-rise.45447/


I started posting in the thread around page 44. Lots of good info thru the entire thread.
The highlights of what I verified through my own personal testing.

RPM’s below 2K is the most economical way to keep oil temps low.

The oil filter housing has an oil T-Stat that does not open until 240*. I actually never got flow thru the factory oil cooler when testing with pressure gauge. I was only able to get the temps in the low 230* while testing. Under heavy load the oil temps rise fast until about 240* then slowly increase from there. Pictures of a new oil cooler housing posted in the thread mentioned show what looks like a TStat in the center of housing.

Ambient temps do not play as big a roll as I thought. Driving thru TX panhandle, instant change from 90* to 60* had no noticeable effect on engine temps. I was monitoring very closely due to derating on that trip. Low RPM’s, below 2K was the only thing that keep temps low.

wonder of there is a way to get a 230 degree thermostat for the factory oil cooler? plenty of cars use that tech for either oil or transmission cooling. Reading the other thread now.

I agree that this is probably the most economical way but if my Son or wife is using it to tow a trailer cross county with HHG items on it I need to know that it wont strand them. I am the mechanic not them lol. looking for a way to make it more user friendly. If that means adding additional BTU removal capacity then I will do that. Hopefully in a way that is useable to others.

thanks for the input

 

[NCJL]

Fortunately, I’ve never been stranded with the JTRD or JLURD. I’ve derated (wire harnesses to hot). Just took a few minutes to cool off. Over 40k between the two. So far the derate problem has been solved.
I’ve talked to a few manufacturers of 12v oil pumps. None recommended there products coming off the pan without first cooling the oil off to about 175* before entering the pump.
Ive had no luck searching for an oil housing TStat.

 

[Madtom]

Fortunately, I’ve never been stranded with the JTRD or JLURD. I’ve derated (wire harnesses to hot). Just took a few minutes to cool off. Over 40k between the two. So far the derate problem has been solved.
I’ve talked to a few manufacturers of 12v oil pumps. None recommended there products coming off the pan without first cooling the oil off to about 175* before entering the pump.
Ive had no luck searching for an oil housing TStat.

Read thru the other forum. I apologize for the questions but I think I want to come up with a similar design for my inbound JTURD. I plan on adding a Banks Idash so I can keep an eye on EGTs and DPF status.

1. Would it be possible to get a line diagram of your current system with component labeling, where the pan holes are located, sizes and approximate line length length? I like that your oil cooler system provides a sizeable passive EOT drop even without the fan running.


This is just doing things to assist the already cramped cooling system in the JT... the current radiator would probably be sufficient if it wasn't also saddled with EGR cooling, oil cooling and then competing for airflow at the front.

In my current JK it had overheating issues for years..... turned out to be the decorative screen in front of the radiator... once I removed it no more overheating in the summer. I love our jeeps but they can be temperamental at times.

 

[Rusty PW]

You need to use a different pump. What you posted is scavenging pumps. Slight difference in appellation. I been using a Tilton continuous duty pump for my diff cooler on my Nismo for years. It's been pumping 80w-250 gear lube with out issues. You can use the same pump for motor oils too.

https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/

 

[Madtom]

So quick question...do we know if the valve spring black plastic item located in the oil filter assy is actually a temperature valve or is it a bypass valve?........ was in a rabbit hole and came across folks wondering why their oil cooler wasn't performing in their boat after installation. come to find out the boat engine already has bypass valves in it from the factory . BLUF wrong size (PSI) bypass= oil flow not going where you want it to....

It would be nice if we had a ecodiesel engineer around to show the flow directions and normal operation in different modes for our V6.

"Gen V and Gen VI big-block crate engines come with two oil pressure bypass valves installed in the engine blocks. Both of these valves are rated at 11 psi pressure differential. One valve is for the oil filter and the other is for the production oil cooler. If you install an aftermarket oil cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the oil filter pad on the engine block, you should be aware that you need to change the oil filter bypass valve in the engine block. The aftermarket oil lines add resistance which will cause the bypass valve to bypass the aftermarket oil cooler and/or oil filter all the time. Obviously, if the cooler and filter are bypassed the oil will be dirty and hot. Your engine could run hotter and could be damaged by dirt in the oil. If you choose to use an aftermarket cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the pad, you should change the bypass valve to one with a higher differential pressure rating.
A good choice would be GM# 25161284 which is rated at 30 psi. Remove the valve that is closest to the crankshaft and replace it with the new valve. Press the new valve into the engine block and stake it in three places. You should note that the bypass valves don't need to be changed if you use a production oil cooler which uses the production holes in the engine block and you don't use a remote oil filter. Also, if you use an adapter that just angles the filter for clearance you don't need to change the bypass valves."

 

[NCJL]

When testing I installed a pressure gauge on both of the bungs in the bottom of the filter housing. I got the oil temps in the 230*’s.
To do this the oil pressure was way above 30psi for extended periods of time. No difference in pressure between the ports was seen.
Thinking it’s an oil TStat in the housing.

 

[Vtur]

So quick question...do we know if the valve spring black plastic item located in the oil filter assy is actually a temperature valve or is it a bypass valve?.

It's a floating bypass valve that moves with the filter.

 

[Madtom]

Ok so the Filter assy I ordered showed up. trying to understand the flow of oil thru the filter and cooler assy. Please correct me if my understanding is incorrect or i have mislabeled the oil flow/direction. Trying to understand how it works before i even contemplate making mods for improved cooling.

I have identified the oil passages by a letter and have explained how I think it works is in the below paragraph.

A Pressurized oil from pump flows thru one way valve to keep oil filter/cooler from emptying when off. This flows to oil cooler connection and then flows thru cooler and back up to C and into filter assy. Oil comes back thru the filter and down thru B entering the oil passageways in the engine. D is a drain-back from the filter.

I'm a picture kind of guy. Explain it to me with pictures and it all comes together. The black valve identified as A oiling circuit in the first picture looks and feels a lot like a bypass pressure switch (meaning it only allows oil to flow one way) I do not see any form of a thermostat for this piece.

Any Aux Oil cooler added to the plugs under the cooler mount would just be a larger loop for the oil to cool in. I would probably add a oil thermostat just off of these before the lines to a oil cooler so that it wouldn't open up until the oil is warm.

Not sure if the Ram uses the same oil cooler mount but it looks like it was designed to use a external oil cooler.....OEM just never went that far.

 

[Rusty PW]

I'm curious about "A". The check valve/temp valve. Because someone has called it a temperature control valve. In that it doesn't open until a preset temp is reached. Can you take a couple more pictures of it from different angles?

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