Anyone else use this ATF in their Gladiator 8-speed?

[g2020]

Go by the book - keeping in mind anything in the book is based on "normal driving" or use.
IF you tow - cut those numbers.
If you off-road - definitely cut those numbers. You are really using a lot of torque and the gearing inside for that purpose, placing a lot of load on things. If I did what Stan does or that wild man, the wild hobo does, yes, I'd not go over 50K (maybe less if I really hit hard trails)

For severe duty, you started with an interval of 70K miles, tempered that with [not] 50K (I called it 60K), then continued the downward trend to 50K or maybe less.

For severe duty, this rationalizes 40% to 50% of ZF's recommended service interval for normal driving (93K mi). This equals 42K mi +/- 5K mi. Everybody knows, or should know, to apply this estimate based on vehicle usage.

My post on ATF Equivalents is a reference doc (this means "for reference"). Everything is documented with a link to the original source.

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[Stan H]

For severe duty, you started with an interval of 70K miles, tempered that with [not] 50K (I called it 60K), then continued the downward trend to 50K or maybe less.

For severe duty, this rationalizes 40% to 50% of ZF's recommended service interval for normal driving (93K mi). This equals 42K mi +/- 5K mi. Everybody knows, or should know, to apply this estimate based on vehicle usage.

My post on ATF Equivalents is a reference doc (this means "for reference"). Everything is documented with a link to the original source.

I believe

 

[Maximus Gladius]

After the 3rd pan drop, temps fall, and now 3 months after my 4th pan drop, another decrease in temperature.

Had the pleasure of travelling north 3.5 hours to Edmonton on Monday! Finally doing a road trip that had me going there and back in the same day. Truck loves the road trips and I saw another drop in transmission temps.

I said above that after my 3rd pan drop was when I noticed temps drop. Then after the 4th pan drop last May, temps dropped again. I honestly didn’t expect to see it drop even further, but it did.

So, not speculating, not guessing this or that, just real world test and what comes of it. Cause and effect.

Maintained speed of 120 - 130 km/hour (up to 80 mph) there and back. Wind was relatively calm the whole day. Ambient temps were decent.

We have rolling hills here as we travelled north. I saw temps rise on those hills to 174F then as I levelled out, would drop to 170F.

 

[Stan H]

This is a very typical temp on my transmission. After outside temps reach the 90 degree mark transmission will go up to 192-195 & only under load up ling grades it will and has reached 199 and I am heavy in the skinny peddle at that point also at 4k + rpms.

 

[smlobx]

Where did THOSE come from? 1960?
Funny - really. 25,000 miles? Hardly. Wow, everyone would be trashing transmissions just in normal use.

Most of the charts you find online are from the mid-1990s or so, older transmissions, older fluid formulations, non-synthetics and so on. Get some modern info, new stuff, the last couple of decades at least.

Why in the world has this gotten so bloody complicated? Mostly one set of posts that is more like a college thesis than anything, and the source material? Really sad.
14 pages, and still debate, with nothing but stuff being tossed out.

using the recommended fluid will not cause any damage at 220 degrees. You won't have to change your fluid at 25,000 miles if you see 220 degrees.
Do it if you want - but it's not damaging anything - IF you use the correct fluids.

And my thoughts are NOT against what Hootbro does. Again, he does his thing, his reasons, and he never once says he's right or wrong. I have so much respect for the guy - I mean a LOT.
I am saying that - go for it if you want, but don't use something like that as anything saying "maybe you should". If you want, go for it............. but I've taken transmissions way over 30,000 miles,, towing tractors and other heavy loads, and temps up in the 220 range (Chevy truck) and no issues. (had I kept that truck, I'd likely have changed it at 60,000 miles "just because" it hauled HEAVY loads)

I have to really stay out of the transmission threads here - it's really just too sad. Not a single person here has any hands on, or training, but are trying to lead thousands with conjecture and worse and college theme papers or whatever, based on stuff from forums.

These are among the best transmissions in the world. They are used in cars where the recommended change is up there in the 80K-90K range or so. It's not even 2010 any more.

Here's my thesis on it:

Use ZF or MOPAR fluid - buy on Amazon. (Valvoline may be ok - but if I were to switch, I'd for sure do a full flush-out of all of the old fluid - multiple changes)
Go by the book - keeping in mind anything in the book is based on "normal driving" or use.
IF you tow - cut those numbers.
If you off-road - definitely cut those numbers. You are really using a lot of torque and the gearing inside for that purpose, placing a lot of load on things. If I did what Stan does or that wild man, the wild hobo does, yes, I'd not go over 50K (maybe less if I really hit hard trails)
Off-road use is hard on things - duh.

Towing it will totally depend. 5,000 pounds is hardly a real load and I didn't see high transmission temperatures and I drove and managed it to prevent hunting. Hunting is hard on any transmission. Any time it changes "gears" it's applying and releasing clutches and so on. There's always some slippage - minor, but can't discount it.
So when I'd suggest towing you won't want to go full miles on it - you have to use your head - use your experience with it - how many hills, how much shifting, and use your own reasoning.

It truly is simple as heck.

The only time I've seen issues is when people got the transmission hot - and by hot I mean over 240 or so for more than a very short time.



Bingo - as always, Hootbro nails it.
Yes, to the synthetic, but more to the chemistry - the formulation. MODERN fluids make such a chart look really antiquated.

But again, they also said the chemistry matters - thus, choose a quality fluid that meets the specs (and they can prove it)

Still baffled by the idea you save money by switching to cheaper fluids....... on a part that costs thousands of dollars in a very expensive truck.

If you change fluid even at every 40K - over the life of the vehicle, or your ownership - how much have you saved? All that much?

Cut back on the cigarettes. I'd say beer - but I'd really be flamed for that suggestion.

Why is it so complicated?
People in a chair trying to outthink the engineers, and those who have tested these things in labs. Or - no, won't say it again.

To quote Yul Brenner in the famous movie Ben Hur…

“SO LET IT BE WRITTEN. SO LET IT BE DONE!”

Now that we have this hopefully put to rest I have Two questions:

How many quarts of Mopar fluid should I get and where is the best place to buy the fluid and filter?

Bonus question….do I need the get a pan gasket as well?

Thanks for playing…(seriously).

 

[Stan H]

To quote Yul Brenner in the famous movie Ben Hur…

“SO LET IT BE WRITTEN. SO LET IT BE DONE!”

Now that we have this hopefully put to rest I have Two questions:

How many quarts of Mopar fluid should I get and where is the best place to buy the fluid and filter?

Bonus question….do I need the get a pan gasket as well?

Thanks for playing…(seriously).

Buy 7 quarts on a pan drop filter change and refill it usually takes 5.5-6.5 quarts. That gives you a buffer on the refill in case you spill some. (I Did) .
https://a.co/d/dMZa7uU


Filter
https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem...vciZ5PTIwMjEmdD1ydWJpY29uJmU9My02bC12Ni1nYXM=

 

[smlobx]

Buy 7 quarts on a pan drop filter change and refill it usually takes 5.5-6.5 quarts. That gives you a buffer on the refill in case you spill some. (I Did) .
https://a.co/d/dMZa7uU


Filter
https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-transmission-oil-filter-68417054ab?c=Zz10cmFuc21pc3Npb24mcz1jYXNlLWFuZC1yZWxhdGVkLXBhcnRzJmw9NiZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9amVlcCZvPWdsYWRpYXRvciZ5PTIwMjEmdD1ydWJpY29uJmU9My02bC12Ni1nYXM=

Thanks. Did you replace the pan gasket or can they be reused?

 

[Stan H]

Thanks. Did you replace the pan gasket or can they be reused?

It can be reused IF IF IF it isnt damaged .. this last time it was replaced.
@AllMoparParts.com sells that also and they are great to work with .. might even give you a small discount on shipping .

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Thanks. Did you replace the pan gasket or can they be reused?

I reused mine 4 times. It’ll get replaced next time

 

[Maximus Gladius]

To quote Yul Brenner in the famous movie Ben Hur…

“SO LET IT BE WRITTEN. SO LET IT BE DONE!”

Now that we have this hopefully put to rest I have Two questions:

How many quarts of Mopar fluid should I get and where is the best place to buy the fluid and filter?

Bonus question….do I need the get a pan gasket as well?

Thanks for playing…(seriously).

Yes,….”…let it be done” but then let us watch what happens…

If you are one that has racked up a gazillion miles and this is your first pan drop, I wish all good things to come of it and I can only hope that you would send off a sample to the lab and ask for an oxidation number.

We can then start filling the pool of knowledge with data points for all to gain from.

Thanks for playing!

 

[smlobx]

Yes,….”…let it be done” but then let us watch what happens…

If you are one that has racked up a gazillion miles and this is your first pan drop, I wish all good things to come of it and I can only hope that you would send off a sample to the lab and ask for an oxidation number.

We can then start filling the pool of knowledge with data points for all to gain from.

Thanks for playing!

I have 56k on the clock and if I remember I’ll take a sample and send it in for analysis…

 

[DanW]

I have 56k on the clock and if I remember I’ll take a sample and send it in for analysis…

I might just do the same.

 

[JTGuy]

I am just looking for ATF that will fix my hard reverse clunk. How about Liquid Molly or anything?

 

[Hootbro]

I am just looking for ATF that will fix my hard reverse clunk. How about Liquid Molly or anything?

Have you done a fluid service already?

 

[Stan H]

I am just looking for ATF that will fix my hard reverse clunk. How about Liquid Molly or anything?

80w-90 weight that should work
Okay kidding aside . Change fluid and filter see what happens

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