Auto Start Stop Failure/Then complete loss of power failure--Gladiator dead in its tracks

[jjowers]

Hootbro,
Sounds like a likely scenario. Too bad the fail happened while we were in NC mountains and not close to home, I would have towed home and diagnosed and fixed myself. But at least I'll pick her up today. Hopefully the saga of fails ends here. j2

Update:
Arrived at dealership (3 hr drive). Paid, got in Gladiator, pushed start….click, click, click. Service tested primary battery…dead. Service Manager got a goodwill approval to replace the battery. Saved another $313. Sigh. Ready to go home after the new battery is installed. j2

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[punk'n]

Update:
Arrived at dealership (3 hr drive). Paid, got in Gladiator, pushed start….click, click, click. Service tested primary battery…dead. Service Manager got a goodwill approval to replace the battery. Saved another $313. Sigh. Ready to go home after the new battery is installed. j2

Sounds like you had 2 batteries crapping out and they threw in a PDC for the hell of it. ?

 

[Hootbro]

And, that's why they claim there is a PDC core charge. So, that you can't get it back to test it.

I would at least ask to see it (PDC) when picking up the truck. My guess (again) is that they never replaced it so they won't have the original to show you. Because.... its still in the truck.

If me, I would be calling them out to prove the core charge and to see the part. The whole thing sounds fu

Update:
Arrived at dealership (3 hr drive). Paid, got in Gladiator, pushed start….click, click, click. Service tested primary battery…dead. Service Manager got a goodwill approval to replace the battery. Saved another $313. Sigh. Ready to go home after the new battery is installed. j2

That dealership still came out ahead after the "Goodwill" replacement.

 

[elrubijt]

Update:
Arrived at dealership (3 hr drive). Paid, got in Gladiator, pushed start….click, click, click. Service tested primary battery…dead. Service Manager got a goodwill approval to replace the battery. Saved another $313. Sigh. Ready to go home after the new battery is installed. j2

Any update on how your JT is holding up? I just had this happen to me 2 weeks ago.

I stopped at a light and when I took my foot off the brake, I got the ‘Auto Start/Stop Disabled’ light along with a check engine light. I turned it off, wait a minute or two and tried to turn it on and nothing! Wait a few more minutes and then every light in my Jeep started flickering for a minute or two and then it went dead! Tow truck driver tried to give me a jump and got no reading from my Jeep’s batteries so I towed it to my dealership in Puente Hills in CA. They just keep telling me they can’t find the issue and are having their techs look into this.

I’ve had my JT since 2020…driven from coast to coast twice and done countless other trips and never had an issue but I’m getting a bad feeling that this issue is not going to go away that easy and all the forums I’ve seen surrounding this issue have not helped to change that emotion!

 

[ckoyola]

Sold the 2020 sport that had the issue and now have a 2021 Overland that so far is fine with close to 20K miles. For the 2020 Sport I had, they had to replace both batteries (the auxiliary auto start underneath main battery and main battery), and the fuse block. There are many other threads on this topic and all point to the he auxiliary auto start battery being the culprit. Some have bypassed it (cheap fix) and others have added a two full size battery kit (expensive), but I don't plan to do either until I am out of warranty. Heard about warranty nightmares even if you make the slightest change to anything electronic.

 

[Shaqeeb]

Hi All, so I've faced a similar issue with my truck. I was driving down a highway and got into gridlocked traffic. I did not disengage the auto start/stop, so when I hit traffic, the engine shut down (which was expected). The moment I took my foot off the brake pedal, the entire thing shut down. I tried restarting the car, but nothing!! I tried for a few minutes and still nothing. I tried locking the car, opening and closing the door to mimic a sleep cycle, and even tried locking the car with my remote. Still nothing. Then, after 15 of being stuck in the middle of a highway waiting for my tow truck, I tried restarting it, and it turned back on.

Some background info:
- I have a Tazer installed
- Aux battery is cancelled and installed a dual battery with CTEK Dual battery management system.
- I also have a bunch of lights and accessories installed on the truck

I took the car to a shop that I work with, and the team there informed me that the likely issue was a faulty power control module, as nothing else seemed to be the case.

So I Took the car to the dealership as it is still under warranty (and removed the Tazer and unmarried it); they scanned it, checked a bunch of things and just stated that the car was fine. They do not think the PCM is the issue, but to stay safe, they must return the car to "stock condition"; otherwise, they cannot figure out what is happening.

So, after this long intro (and apologies for that), I have two questions:
- has this happened to anyone, and what was the solution that they found
- the dealership does not seem rational in wanting to return the car to stock to check something that was not even modified in the car.

Please let me know what you all might think or if you might have any feedback or input.

Thanks

 

[Mr._Bill]

Hi All, so I've faced a similar issue with my truck. I was driving down a highway and got into gridlocked traffic. I did not disengage the auto start/stop, so when I hit traffic, the engine shut down (which was expected). The moment I took my foot off the brake pedal, the entire thing shut down. I tried restarting the car, but nothing!! I tried for a few minutes and still nothing. I tried locking the car, opening and closing the door to mimic a sleep cycle, and even tried locking the car with my remote. Still nothing. Then, after 15 of being stuck in the middle of a highway waiting for my tow truck, I tried restarting it, and it turned back on.

Some background info:
- I have a Tazer installed
- Aux battery is cancelled and installed a dual battery with CTEK Dual battery management system.
- I also have a bunch of lights and accessories installed on the truck

I took the car to a shop that I work with, and the team there informed me that the likely issue was a faulty power control module, as nothing else seemed to be the case.

So I Took the car to the dealership as it is still under warranty (and removed the Tazer and unmarried it); they scanned it, checked a bunch of things and just stated that the car was fine. They do not think the PCM is the issue, but to stay safe, they must return the car to "stock condition"; otherwise, they cannot figure out what is happening.

So, after this long intro (and apologies for that), I have two questions:
- has this happened to anyone, and what was the solution that they found
- the dealership does not seem rational in wanting to return the car to stock to check something that was not even modified in the car.

Please let me know what you all might think or if you might have any feedback or input.

Thanks

You have modified the stock electrical system, and removed the Aux battery. You have ESS related issues that you want repaired under warranty. Returning it to stock condition is a standard expectation. The Service Manuals, Troubleshooting Guides, and System Checks only cover stock configurations. There are no provisions for modified vehicles.

The Aux Battery is there to keep the computers stable so they don't reboot during ESS events, which appears to be what happened to you.

 

[sharpsicle]

Hi All, so I've faced a similar issue with my truck. I was driving down a highway and got into gridlocked traffic. I did not disengage the auto start/stop, so when I hit traffic, the engine shut down (which was expected). The moment I took my foot off the brake pedal, the entire thing shut down. I tried restarting the car, but nothing!! I tried for a few minutes and still nothing. I tried locking the car, opening and closing the door to mimic a sleep cycle, and even tried locking the car with my remote. Still nothing. Then, after 15 of being stuck in the middle of a highway waiting for my tow truck, I tried restarting it, and it turned back on.

Some background info:
- I have a Tazer installed
- Aux battery is cancelled and installed a dual battery with CTEK Dual battery management system.
- I also have a bunch of lights and accessories installed on the truck

I took the car to a shop that I work with, and the team there informed me that the likely issue was a faulty power control module, as nothing else seemed to be the case.

So I Took the car to the dealership as it is still under warranty (and removed the Tazer and unmarried it); they scanned it, checked a bunch of things and just stated that the car was fine. They do not think the PCM is the issue, but to stay safe, they must return the car to "stock condition"; otherwise, they cannot figure out what is happening.

So, after this long intro (and apologies for that), I have two questions:
- has this happened to anyone, and what was the solution that they found
- the dealership does not seem rational in wanting to return the car to stock to check something that was not even modified in the car.

Please let me know what you all might think or if you might have any feedback or input.

Thanks

This is standard fare for modifying a vehicle. Components related to your issue will likely need to be returned to stock for warranty service to happen. Considering they cannot immediately pinpoint the issue, they need to go through verified troubleshooting steps to stay within warranty. A modified battery system will understandably be in the way of those steps.

Your choices are to either deal with it yourself, or return the electrical system to a dealer-serviceable condition.

As far as removing the AUX battery, this is a good example of why I always recommend not using ESS without the AUX battery in place. The protections that battery gave your system during ESS events are gone, so the risk of something like this is higher. As @Mr._Bill mentioned, this seems like an issue where something restarted during ESS that isn't supposed to. If your truck is working fine now, my suggestion would be to just keep ESS disabled.

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