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Auto Stop/Start Stopped working.

Sarge502

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That’s the same light I had on mine when I took it in today. As I mentioned above the dealer said the AUX battery had gone bad.
Assuming that is my problem as well, was it covered or did you come out of pocket a pretty penny?
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SargeDiesel

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It was covered. A battery that dies within 3500 miles better be covered:). Hopefully they have a permanent fix for this.
If you are talking about a fix for the ESS, imo , they don't/wont. The system was designed this way (obviously not defective batteries) . There is more drain on the batteries than you realize, even when parked. So if you do not drive your vehicle daily, for an extended period, you will never keep your AUX battery at an acceptable charge to operate your ESS. There are more consequences than the ESS not working, like eventually a stranded vehicle (well documented on the forums).There are several ways to defeat this,(some cost $ & some free) but choosing to do so is each operator's decision.
 

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I've had the Start/Stop error on my dash for months, took it to a local dealer yesterday expecting to leave it overnight for a charge. They just replaced it for free and sent me on my way. :whew:
 

SargeDiesel

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I've had the Start/Stop error on my dash for months, took it to a local dealer yesterday expecting to leave it overnight for a charge. They just replaced it for free and sent me on my way. :whew:
That's awesome, but unless you drive a lot or keep it on a tender, you most likely will continue to run into the same issues..... maybe not tomorrow, but eventually. Glad they replaced it for you without any hassle.
 

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I have an extra battery tender that I can use once I get the new AUX battery. Not sure if it was covered earlier but can someone advise on how you connect the tender to charge both the main and AUX batteries? Thanks.
 

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I have an extra battery tender that I can use once I get the new AUX battery. Not sure if it was covered earlier but can someone advise on how you connect the tender to charge both the main and AUX batteries? Thanks.
Just connect to the nuts on the top of the main battery posts. It will charge both batteries. The two are paralleled together all the time, except during ESS events and during the ESS battery check at startup.
 

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If the ESS battery notice has shown in the dash, and once the two batts are topped off via trickle charge, is it then necessary to reset the IBS?
 

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If the ESS battery notice has shown in the dash, and once the two batts are topped off via trickle charge, is it then necessary to reset the IBS?
If you connected directly to the battery posts so that the IBS was bypassed, then it should be reset. Otherwise, it's not necessary, but doesn't hurt anything to reset it.
 

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It's recommended to connect the negative to the post directly above the IBS. "Blind" charging directly to the negative post isn't advertised.
 

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That's a very different animal - that's indicating aux battery issues or similar issue, that's not due to something being not ready.
Even with the misfire, or with a "battery charging" message, I've not had that alert light.
I would have that checked by the dealer.
This is the light I have with the high idle issue. I put a new TB on, didn't fix it. Did IBS reset, didn't fix it. Battery is fully charged, still there. Dave has not been able to tune around it.
Spoke to Service Tech manager today, and he wants me to gauge out put of ISB module. Says they have been replacing a ton of them lately, and if they do not have an output of 84% or more, it causes ESS issues.
 

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So I just had the @! light come on a few days ago. Put new batteries both main and aux in and the light went out. Then I have just read @ShadowsPapa note to fully charge the batteries before I hook them up, which I have already hooked them up and did not charge them. Can I just throw an old lead acid 1 amp charger on there hooked to positive and negative stud on top of IBS as noted above and let that thing charge over night and be good? Just check to see if voltage is more than 12.6 resting (it is usually 12.4 resting in the morning according to dash board gauge before I start it). Or do I need to buy a new Noco 5 or 10 amp charger instead of this old lead acid one? Thanks for the thread and everyone's help.
 

SargeDiesel

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So I just had the @! light come on a few days ago. Put new batteries both main and aux in and the light went out. Then I have just read @ShadowsPapa note to fully charge the batteries before I hook them up, which I have already hooked them up and did not charge them. Can I just throw an old lead acid 1 amp charger on there hooked to positive and negative stud on top of IBS as noted above and let that thing charge over night and be good? Just check to see if voltage is more than 12.6 resting (it is usually 12.4 resting in the morning according to dash board gauge before I start it). Or do I need to buy a new Noco 5 or 10 amp charger instead of this old lead acid one? Thanks for the thread and everyone's help.
Both oem batteries are AGM, yes , both batteries should be fully charged before hooking them back up. The reason for this is that when you disconnected them, you reset the IBS.
 

SargeDiesel

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This is the light I have with the high idle issue. I put a new TB on, didn't fix it. Did IBS reset, didn't fix it. Battery is fully charged, still there. Dave has not been able to tune around it.
Spoke to Service Tech manager today, and he wants me to gauge out put of ISB module. Says they have been replacing a ton of them lately, and if they do not have an output of 84% or more, it causes ESS issues.
How/what do you mean, "gauge out" the IBS ?
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