Yeah it's not a daily driver, I actually don't care about Start/Stop. I kind of find it annoying so I immediately disable it upon ignition. I've thought about just pulling the fuse but for now I'm just going to ride it out and see what happens.
Was confused on that as well. Tech explained to me that there an output reading on the ibs in the computer. It needs to read above 84% output from batteries for everything ti work properly. Said he’s changed a dozen or so the last few weeks and they’re either stuck on 60% or 80% output. Makes no diff if batteries are 100%. If output is below 84, ESS will not work.
Did he explain how to test it ?
On the Wrangler forum, a few have reach out to some battery manufacturers and the manufacturers guidance is that it can be harmful to the battery to charge at too low of a rate. Given that a lead acid battery gets charged at a lower rate than an AGM anyway, I would not use a 1 amp lead acid charger. The consensus there seems to be get a 10 amp.
Thanks @jebiruph , 10 amps is good to know, I have a Victron blue smart for my camper that will do 15 or 30 amps, any idea if I could use this one instead of the Noco 10 amp? It has a 14.4 v absorption, 13.8 float, and 13.2 storage profile as well as a 14.7 absorption option and the manual stares it is good for AGM.
The flip side of the high charge rate is that you can charge the small battery at too high of a rate. I think the recommendation was to charge at around 10% of cranking voltage, but I'm not sure I'm remembering correctly. My experience was that for over three years the charging voltage in my JL was 14.5v and above, and my aux battery never failed. I did a preventative swap out of mine, so now I have a good spare if needed.
Thanks again @jebiruph, I have read many threads from you and @ShadowsPapa on this, I am grateful. I saw one from shadowspapa and noticed his charger from Napa so picking that one up today. I will charge the Aux at 2 amps then the main at 10 amps, if I understand correctly I need to do this "not blind" which should mean hook the positive from my charger to the positive main battery connection like normal, then first remove everything from the main negative post and clamp above the IBS with the charger negative clamp to charge aux only, then when aux is full reconnect everything to the negative post, remove the negative wire to the aux, clamp negative charge on top of IBS and charge main until full, then reconnect aux cable. This should charge both batteries independently and not blind if I understand correctly. Then disconnect the IBS from the negative cables and main negative post and let it reset..... I think this is all correct.
Going through the same exact experience, I have a 2a and a 5a charger/maintainer, I was able to change both batteries in parallel with the 5a, just took a while longer, but I obtained a full charge on both batteries and my ESS started working for the first time consistently. It's been several days since the charge, I've barely driven the vehicle..... after a very short distance, my ESS was in the "ready" status. I stopped/restarted atleast 4 times and the system remained in the "ready" status. I still plan on getting the Noco 10, mainly to save a little time and I like that it's got the force charge function. My other two chargers are microprocessor based also, but lack the higher amperage and some of the functionality of the Noco.
Thanks @SargeDiesel , agree.
Same here, I've been treating the JT with kids gloves, there are a lot of sufisticated systems packed in these vehicles and the electrical system is something not to be played with blindly.... the is A LOT of misinformation floating around and you have to read everything and sort through it. Nothing wrong with asking questions and learning to be able to figure it all out. you are on the right track... and definitely doing it right. I will say this, if @jebiruph gives you advice on the electrical system, you can take it to the bank 100%.
