Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper)

[Nielsen2385]

Finally got mine installed today. Once I got them in and the harness connected (clicked together no issues) and tested, the lights come on once in reverse and then left light and the 2 oracle lights flash on and off every few seconds. After a few flashes they stop coming on and only the right factory reverse light comes on. Anyone had similar issue?

Same issue with a 2020 sport with halogen lights, after removing the harness my drivers side reverse light still doesn’t work

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[Jimmij]

InstallEd mine with pop harness with no problems. I have an overland with the led package. I did have to unclip the original harness to give enough room for the passenger side connection. No trimming of the guide Pins.

 

[Erievon]

Oh BTW, same here, I was able to pivot around the guide pin screw and in place. Took a little bit of wiggling and finagaling, but can be done.

Edit: Overland North with LED package, pnp pass through harness worked fine except for the passenger length needing an inch and having to take the tail light harness off its mount to make it work.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

All that's needed is to prevent feedback to the truck's reverse light circuit while powered by a switch/relay and ideally prevent feedback to the switch when in reverse. Any decent basic diode would do but I like how that mounts and makes it dummy-proof. There's very little in the way of power going to these so I suspect something in my draw

Oh BTW, same here, I was able to pivot around the guide pin screw and in place. Took a little bit of wiggling and finagaling, but can be done.

Edit: Overland North with LED package, pnp pass through harness worked fine except for the passenger length needing an inch and having to take the tail light harness off its mount to make it work.

Mine went right in - rotated it, tipped into place, rotated it back, attached. I was surprised and pleased with how easy the lights themselves went in. No trimming, no fuss. Hardly 5 minutes per light.

 

[Climbhigh]

If y’all are looking for a ground

Not there on my Rubicon ?‍

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If y’all are looking for a ground

Not factory, though - I can see crimp marks there. So you are meaning YOU added a ground point there, correct?

 

[takeitsleazy]

Not factory, though - I can see crimp marks there. So you are meaning YOU added a ground point there, correct?

Nope, but you got me thinking about it, and I bet if I followed it it would be the ground for my ARE cap light

 

[Climbhigh]

Installed my lights today. I decided to just wire them to the Aux 4 switch. Since I mostly only wanted them on a as needed basis, and for camping. I'll try to get some night pictures this evening (reverse camera, standing on bed, and looking towards the truck etc)

 

[Moab]

how did you cheat the harness. my wont reach. Thank you

Like others have posted. ShadowsPapa wrote it out nicely. Fish the small cable extension out the top hole in the tailgate pillar (exiting toward bed) ran along top of plate lights. IT IS TENSIONED. I secured it with tie wraps. Look forward to getting the extension cable as JP mentioned.
Then I can untie the tie-wrap and hang the factory harness plug on its perch.
I did zip tie the factory one snug so it doesn’t hang down and it stays away from the tailgate piston.
Cheers

 

[Shoebox]

Tried installing mine today. The "plug and play" harness was anything but. The male end wouldn't seat far enough into the female OEM harness to click in place properly. Tried on both taillights with no success. The longer wire is far too short to reach the other side while being properly and securely routed. Email and PM sent to Oracle about it.

 

[Shoebox]

Wires too short!

Harbor Freight Coupon 21489894, 5 To 50 Watt Soldering Station $35.99

Why the hell would I pay extra for a "plug and play" harness that I then have to cut, splice, and solder into? That's just dumb.

 

[Radio Guy]

I wired my lights in today using the optional plug for the rear light harness. I'll start out by mentioning I had a career many years ago installing two way radios and car stereos, so I'm very familiar with vehicle wiring. I also had a career in manufacturing aerospace products where I was our groups mechanical engineer and also a wiring expert. My vehicle is a 2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave.

After having to trim a tab off each light to allow them to seat in the bumper I was a bit disappointed having to do this, these lights are sold for Jeep Gladiators and should be plug and play. After mounting the lights and finding the best and shortest wiring path, there was about an inch slack in the supplied cable. After Ty-Raping the new light wiring to some existing vehicle wiring there was basically no slack, putting a little strain on the wire/light housing junction. Not good.

Then comes the part which concerns me the most, the tiny individual wires exiting the light housing before the protective outer wire covering starts and there is no strain relief on the tiny black and red wire as it exits the light housing. They run it through a rubber grommet with a individual tiny hole for each wire and this is not acceptable. The protective outer covering should start well inside the light housing and there should be a good strain relief bonded to the light housing to protect the wire as it exits the housing. I suspect Oracle will have a number of returns due to the tiny wires breaking at the housing, some from accidents when installing the lights and some after the wiring harness bounces around enough to cause a failure at the housing junction.

When that happens I'll just rip everything apart and rebuild it to my specs with a little larger wire all the way to the original vehicle wire harness and a good strain relief molded into the light housing.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Even though they hang below the bumper, instead of being mounted in it, the installation issues reported here make me appreciate the ease of the KC Reverse Lights install that I did almost two years ago.

 

[Climbhigh]

Night pictures. Top picture, in every set, is just oem reverse lights. Bottom picture is both oem and oracle.

Reverse cam

Side mirror

Above tailgate

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I wired my lights in today using the optional plug for the rear light harness. I'll start out by mentioning I had a career many years ago installing two way radios and car stereos, so I'm very familiar with vehicle wiring. I also had a career in manufacturing aerospace products where I was our groups mechanical engineer and also a wiring expert. My vehicle is a 2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave.

After having to trim a tab off each light to allow them to seat in the bumper I was a bit disappointed having to do this, these lights are sold for Jeep Gladiators and should be plug and play. After mounting the lights and finding the best and shortest wiring path, there was about an inch slack in the supplied cable. After Ty-Raping the new light wiring to some existing vehicle wiring there was basically no slack, putting a little strain on the wire/light housing junction. Not good.

Then comes the part which concerns me the most, the tiny individual wires exiting the light housing before the protective outer wire covering starts and there is no strain relief on the tiny black and red wire as it exits the light housing. They run it through a rubber grommet with a individual tiny hole for each wire and this is not acceptable. The protective outer covering should start well inside the light housing and there should be a good strain relief bonded to the light housing to protect the wire as it exits the housing. I suspect Oracle will have a number of returns due to the tiny wires breaking at the housing, some from accidents when installing the lights and some after the wiring harness bounces around enough to cause a failure at the housing junction.

When that happens I'll just rip everything apart and rebuild it to my specs with a little larger wire all the way to the original vehicle wire harness and a good strain relief molded into the light housing.

I'm not up to your standards or expertise for sure - but I also noted the grommets where the wires exit the light - not sealed when the wires are pulled to make contact. I was concerned about water getting in. I tried liquid tape but it won't stick so I assume that's a silicone of some sort, not "rubber" per se.
With the wires on the right light pulled to make the connection, it appears to open the holes in that grommet. I did not take things apart to see if I was correct about that wire exit opening allowing water in.
I did not realize or notice there's no strain relief. I do agree that the whole wire pair with the insulation should exit in one single hole, not individually. The strain relief should be on the insulation with the internal wires being slack within.

Good catch. Any pull on the wires, like our ice and snow build-up on wires in the winter will likely break those small individual wires.
Not sure why the insulation or outer jacket doesn't go clear into the light. .

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