Best option for 2" spacer lift - Suspension Gurus???

[Garemlin]

So I have been researching 2" spacer lifts. As of now I have narrowed it down to Iron Rock Offroad, AEV, Rubicon Express and Daystar.

Iron Rock Offroad Gladiator 2" Lift Kit

AEV N0921000AB 2in Spacer Lift for 20-22 Jeep Gladiator JT

2020-2021 Jeep Gladiator JT - 2" Lift Kit by Daystar

Rubicon Express JT7134E 2in Economy Lift Kit

Seems like each kit from the others.

-The IRO kit gives the option of 2" over shocks over relocation brackets. Or no shocks or brackets. But it does not include rear bump stops or sway bar end links.
-The AEV kit includes rear bump stops and a carrier bearing spacer. But only gives the option of shock relocation brackets. Also there is the option of geting it with or without the Procal Snap for reprogramming. Not a deal breaker either way
-The Daystar kit comes with LCA's. But no rear bump stops. And it also has no option for shocks. Just relocation brackets.
-The RE kit gives the option of with shocks, no shocks or relocation brackets. Also no rear bump stops or sway bar end links. Just relocation brackets for the end links.

Each of these kits seems to include some things that others don't.

Key take-aways:
-Some include new sway bar end links and some don't
-One includes rear bump stops and the others don't
-One has a carrier bearing spacer and the others don't
-One has new LCAs and the others don't

So which of these components that is omitted from a few of the kits are really necessary in this application???

I will say this. I am leaning away from the kits that only do relocation brackets. I would much prefer to do 2" over shocks. So buying shocks would be an added cost if they don't give the option.

Which of these kits would you say would be the best bang for the buck?? It seems like all of them might require the purchase of additional parts based on the answer to the omitted components question above.

Also if I have missed any kits feel free to suggest. As long as it's not Rough Country.

Sponsored

 

[Renegade]

I started on the Daystar kit because it was cheap, it was one of the only available 2 years ago, and I knew I would upgrade over time. The spacers are fine, but the poly bushings in the control arms and sway bar links are crap. I’ve also installed the AEV 2” kit on a friend’s Gladiator, along with the longer Mopar LCAs. Everything works well with that kit, and I can highly recommend it. You can always add shocks down the road if you decide you want them.

 

[OnlyOne]

The AEV is the best in the bunch just due to the Calibration tool. They are all spacers. They all do the same thing. Even the RC kit which I would buy over the rest at 99 bucks. Spacers are spacers. They are great for keeping your factory ride and giving you a couple inches. That’s it. Don’t over think it.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

While I’m pulling it in favor of Clayton springs…

The AEV kit is awesome. All very top notch stuff with everything you’d need. Use the shock brackets, or don’t with better longer shocks (Bilstein 5100 are a good deal.)

Sway bar links are not a necessity, but great they are included. Add the very inexpensive Mopar LCAs and then only if you feel like it: adjustable front track bar, teraflex rear track bracket and you have a very nice 2” lift for under $1000 easily.

 

[Garemlin]

I started on the Daystar kit because it was cheap, it was one of the only available 2 years ago, and I knew I would upgrade over time. The spacers are fine, but the poly bushings in the control arms and sway bar links are crap. I’ve also installed the AEV 2” kit on a friend’s Gladiator, along with the longer Mopar LCAs. Everything works well with that kit, and I can highly recommend it. You can always add shocks down the road if you decide you want them.

Shocks are an absolute must for me. I refuse to use relocation brackets. That's why I'm trying to figure out best bang for the buck. Two of the kits have shock option over brackets. But are missing a few things. One of those gives the option of no shocks or brackets which makes it cheaper. But again might require some additions.

The biggest factor right now is which parts left out of a few are really necessary. Makes you wonder why some include them and some don't.

 

[Garemlin]

The AEV is the best in the bunch just due to the Calibration tool. They are all spacers. They all do the same thing. Even the RC kit which I would buy over the rest at 99 bucks. Spacers are spacers. They are great for keeping your factory ride and giving you a couple inches. That’s it. Don’t over think it.

Honestly the AEV kit is at the bottom for the sole reason it doesn't give the option for 2" over shocks instead of brackets. Or no brackets at all. But it's still the most expensive.

 

[OnlyOne]

Honestly the AEV kit is at the bottom for the sole reason it doesn't give the option for 2" over shocks instead of brackets. Or no brackets at all. But it's still the most expensive.

buy the 99 dollar RC spacer kit and some fox 2.0 shocks. Done. You don’t need anything else at that height. Or choose whatever shock you want. Like I said, you‘re just wasting money on different spacers. Go the cheapest route possible on spacers. Otherwise go with springs.

 

[Garemlin]

buy the 99 dollar RC spacer kit and some fox 2.0 shocks. Done. You don’t need anything else at that height. Or choose whatever shock you want. Like I said, you‘re just wasting money on different spacers. Go the cheapest route possible on spacers. Otherwise go with springs.

So why do some of the kits have bump stops, end links or LCA'S if they aren't really necessary at this height? Are they just upselling for no reason??

 

[OnlyOne]

So why do some of the kits have bump stops, end links or LCA'S if they aren't really necessary at this height? Are they just upselling for no reason??

Bump stops and end links come with that Cheap kit too. The lower control arms aren’t “needed”. You can always purchase the Mopar lowers later if you think you need them after the lift.

These things are so easy to take part and put back together you can tinker with your Jeep and find the best setup for you. It’s not a one size fits all. A lot of Jeeps are different from one to another unfortunately.

 

[Mac]

I would choose one that uses poly spacers instead of metal. I have used Daystar and been pretty happy with them, they also separately sell front spring lower correction pads which IMO are needed to keep the springs from bowing, another thing I like with the Daystar is the spacer does not reuse the factory isolator pad it is built into the space. I used Rubicon Express shock extensions which are very high quality and well made.

 

[Garemlin]

Bump stops and end links come with that Cheap kit too. The lower control arms aren’t “needed”. You can always purchase the Mopar lowers later if you think you need them after the lift.

These things are so easy to take part and put back together you can tinker with your Jeep and find the best setup for you. It’s not a one size fits all. A lot of Jeeps are different from one to another unfortunately.

One of the things that has me scratching my head is why one includes rear bump stops but the others with fronts don't. Are those really not needed either?

What about the carrier bearing spacer with the AEV kit. Not necessary?

 

[OnlyOne]

One of the things that has me scratching my head is why one includes rear bump stops but the others with fronts don't. Are those really not needed either?

What about the carrier bearing spacer with the AEV kit. Not necessary?

Bumpstops are there to protect the shock from bottoming out before the stops. They are also there to keep large tires out of the fenders. If there’s plenty of room for the shock, theres no need for more bump. I personally don’t think the bearing spacer is needed but I’m not going to say I’m smarter than AEV. I’m just going off years of experience installing and owning these money pits.
it’s pretty easy to calculate how much bump you need by measuring the amount of shock showing before and after it hits the bump. Then you can fine tune it.

 

[bleda2002]

I'd buy just spacers and forget the kits if you are changing shocks. Look at fat bob's as the best bang for the buck on that. Then add the Mopar lower control arms from the lift for 60-70 bucks, the new rear Mopar end links from the lift for another 70 bucks (move the existing rear to the front as I believe they fit), and a set of fox 2.0s. all the kits have compromises or cheap parts and you are better off just building your own since it will be similar cost anyways and you will end up with higher quality stuff.

Bump stops you can buy the rears fairly cheap and the fronts you can make your own with hockey pucks that will allow for custom sizing.

 

[Renegade]

One of the things that has me scratching my head is why one includes rear bump stops but the others with fronts don't. Are those really not needed either?

What about the carrier bearing spacer with the AEV kit. Not necessary?

The carrier bearing spacer isn’t entirely necessary in my opinion, but it is better than not having it. It keeps the angles closer to stock, and reduces the likelihood of the CV boot tearing or vibrations developing. I ran a 1.5” spacer with 28” long shocks in the rear without a driveshaft spacer for nearly 2 years. I did build my own spacer though after noticing my front driveshaft boot torn. I have a spare front, so it’s not a big deal. I don’t want the rear to tear…

 

[mx5red]

Hard for me to know what parts are more “necessary” than others, but I waited for a used AEV lift. Cut the cost down, and I figured AEV works closely with Mopar and probably has a pretty good engineering side of things, so I bet they include what they do for a reason.
I’m sure it would be better with more complete parts like a track bar or something but then it would be too expensive.

I don’t know how much I’d worry about shocks vs extension brackets. A spacer lift is not going to give you as much flex as a decent spring lift with control arms anyway. So if you’re not worried about max flex, then a decent spacer lift is fine. Extensions seemed fine for this, or go ahead and throw longer shocks in there, but you’re not going to fully utilize the flex of longer shocks unless you go spring/control arm lift. Right?

btw I like the suggestion of the longer Mopar LCAs, they’re a cheap, sturdy, useful addition and maintain caster. I believe saw a video that showed the bushings looked more sturdy and flexy.

Sponsored