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Cooling efficiency of different hoods?

BearFootSam

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Howdy y'all! I hope you know those fake looking vents behind the front wheel arches are real and do exhaust air from the under-hood compartment? These are engineered vehicles, my suspicion is that the folks who designed the cooling system knew what they were doing and had the benefit of decades of institutional knowledge on how to cool not only jeep body vehicles but Ram trucks as well.

At speed the under-hood compartment is a pressurized space. Air flowing into the grill passes over at least three radiators by my eyes (coolant, trans and aircon?). Aside from some bleed via the front quarter panel vents, the majority of air flows out through the underbody. Apart from cooling I'd guess that airflow impacts drag and efficiency and thereby the load on the engine and hence heat production. That air also flows down past the crankcase and transmission providing some degree of case cooling. It is also possible that there is some venturi effect created by the restriction between the front air dam and the road causing a low-pressure region under the front of the car drawing hot engine compartment air under the body. This is purely speculative but given these trucks have seen air tunnel time during development it is totally conceivable that the cooling system relies on the effect.

When we are talking about optimum cooling there are really two competing conditions to design for - low speed and high-speed operation. At low speed the system would probably work most effectively with no front body work other than ducting between the fan and radiator. Conversely, at high speed, the bodywork aids in efficient airflow management to optimize cooling system performance. The two conditions are at odds and so the engineers have to balance the system for the best middle ground for all types of operation.

That said, there is likely room to improve upon the cooling system for a specific use case at the sacrifice of performance in another. You could optimize airflow for high speed, high load conditions like towing but then may suffer during steep low speed trail riding or vice versa. For me, the gladiator is the best compromise between all my vehicle needs and so the as packaged design is perfect. It is neither a two-door wrangler or an aerodynamic full time towing machine, it does both and does them adequately by making compromises that is the beauty of it.

The fact that jeep could fit a big V8 under the hood with the only modification being a questionable air intake change tells me the stock cooling (tow package) is totally adequate for the 3.6 at least. I would be interested to see the engine temperature difference between the MT and AT under equivalent towing conditions. My guess is that the AT would run lower due to the greater number of gear ratios and lower cruise RPM, though the transmission temps would be higher. The owner's manual goes so far to suggest towing using manual mode which may be to make lockup more likely if the tranny isn't hunting for gears.
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Medical_Bartender

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Anyone tried the poison spyder hood vent yet?
I’ve got it but haven’t installed yet. I have it on my JK and can visually see the heat dissipation when I’m crawling or at stoplights. Not that that translates into better cooking though..
 

@californiajeeping

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I’ve got it but haven’t installed yet. I have it on my JK and can visually see the heat dissipation when I’m crawling or at stoplights. Not that that translates into better cooking though..
drastically reduced under hood temperatures. Especially after parking. I can touch anything under the hood aside from the engine itself. Before two hours after shutdown I couldn’t even touch the intercooler pipes or top of the radiator shroud.

did absolutely nothing at higher speed uphill when oil temperatures get up to 240+. It for sure helped it cool back down if your at a stop light.

also my KN filter is twice as loud with the hood vent ?

Jeep Gladiator Cooling efficiency of different hoods? 741DF60C-8B69-4DB3-A37B-0285DE64648D
 

Medical_Bartender

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drastically reduced under hood temperatures. Especially after parking. I can touch anything under the hood aside from the engine itself. Before two hours after shutdown I couldn’t even touch the intercooler pipes or top of the radiator shroud.

did absolutely nothing at higher speed uphill when oil temperatures get up to 240+. It for sure helped it cool back down if your at a stop light.

also my KN filter is twice as loud with the hood vent ?

741DF60C-8B69-4DB3-A37B-0285DE64648D.jpeg
As I expected, good to hear!! If you get a free moment would you mind posting a pic of your front end but higher up so we can see the louvers? I'm thinking about doing this mod sooner rather than later and seeing yours will probably put me over the edge lol

Did you cut out the underhood insulation or just remove it all together?
 

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Thats a little salty, but I have also been thinking about it somewhere along the line, after I spend the rest of my life's savings on mods ? A Mojave or Rub hood are cheaper arent they? You could make the Rub vents active without too much trouble if you have any fab skills at all. Only thing is if water can get into the engine area, what starts happening with electronic parts?
On what happens with water getting into engine compartment... not really a big deal for most part. Maybe if driving in a monsoon and running a open air filter. Water is being thrown into engine compartment when driving on wet roads or raining.
My XJ is vented with hacked in boat vents in hood for many years. It dumps quite a lot of heat out... Steam in rain or snow too, but I didn't have any new electric problems from it. Now that wasn't done for high speed cooling but for low speed rock crawling, a different reason. To keep engine, transmission, power steering cooler at low speed and limited air flow.


BearFootSam
You are probably dead on with that, at speed part of down pressure on vehicle is due to high and low pressure waves on vehicle. Higher pressure over top and lower pressure under vehicle I've watched some wind tunnel videos showing that effect.
 

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drastically reduced under hood temperatures. Especially after parking. I can touch anything under the hood aside from the engine itself. Before two hours after shutdown I couldn’t even touch the intercooler pipes or top of the radiator shroud.

did absolutely nothing at higher speed uphill when oil temperatures get up to 240+. It for sure helped it cool back down if your at a stop light.

also my KN filter is twice as loud with the hood vent ?

741DF60C-8B69-4DB3-A37B-0285DE64648D.jpeg
Nice looking truck!
 

@californiajeeping

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As I expected, good to hear!! If you get a free moment would you mind posting a pic of your front end but higher up so we can see the louvers? I'm thinking about doing this mod sooner rather than later and seeing yours will probably put me over the edge lol

Did you cut out the underhood insulation or just remove it all together?
I removed the underhood insulation. Installation is not for the timid. It is a disaster to get everything done perfectly. I also ended up with one small ding from my jigsaw jumping out on the last cut even with tape around the work area. A blanket is probably a better idea.

Its like 40 holes 16 long cuts with a jigsaw some unibit holes all through 3 layers of aluminum.

Not sure how a cut off wheel would cut through aluminum. the best option is likely a oscillating saw!
 

BearFootSam

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I removed the underhood insulation. Installation is not for the timid. It is a disaster to get everything done perfectly. I also ended up with one small ding from my jigsaw jumping out on the last cut even with tape around the work area. A blanket is probably a better idea.

Its like 40 holes 16 long cuts with a jigsaw some unibit holes all through 3 layers of aluminum.

Not sure how a cut off wheel would cut through aluminum. the best option is likely a oscillating saw!
I would definitely go with a multimaster or potentially even a top end jigsaw like the carvex by festool.
 

dcmdon

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Howdy y'all! I hope you know those fake looking vents behind the front wheel arches are real and do exhaust air from the under-hood compartment? These are engineered vehicles, my suspicion is that the folks who designed the cooling system knew what they were doing and had the benefit of decades of institutional knowledge on how to cool not only jeep body vehicles but Ram trucks as well.

At speed the under-hood compartment is a pressurized space. Air flowing into the grill passes over at least three radiators by my eyes (coolant, trans and aircon?). Aside from some bleed via the front quarter panel vents, the majority of air flows out through the underbody. Apart from cooling I'd guess that airflow impacts drag and efficiency and thereby the load on the engine and hence heat production. That air also flows down past the crankcase and transmission providing some degree of case cooling. It is also possible that there is some venturi effect created by the restriction between the front air dam and the road causing a low-pressure region under the front of the car drawing hot engine compartment air under the body. This is purely speculative but given these trucks have seen air tunnel time during development it is totally conceivable that the cooling system relies on the effect.

When we are talking about optimum cooling there are really two competing conditions to design for - low speed and high-speed operation. At low speed the system would probably work most effectively with no front body work other than ducting between the fan and radiator. Conversely, at high speed, the bodywork aids in efficient airflow management to optimize cooling system performance. The two conditions are at odds and so the engineers have to balance the system for the best middle ground for all types of operation.

That said, there is likely room to improve upon the cooling system for a specific use case at the sacrifice of performance in another. You could optimize airflow for high speed, high load conditions like towing but then may suffer during steep low speed trail riding or vice versa. For me, the gladiator is the best compromise between all my vehicle needs and so the as packaged design is perfect. It is neither a two-door wrangler or an aerodynamic full time towing machine, it does both and does them adequately by making compromises that is the beauty of it.

The fact that jeep could fit a big V8 under the hood with the only modification being a questionable air intake change tells me the stock cooling (tow package) is totally adequate for the 3.6 at least. I would be interested to see the engine temperature difference between the MT and AT under equivalent towing conditions. My guess is that the AT would run lower due to the greater number of gear ratios and lower cruise RPM, though the transmission temps would be higher. The owner's manual goes so far to suggest towing using manual mode which may be to make lockup more likely if the tranny isn't hunting for gears.
Your post implies something but I'll say it explicitly.

What works for low speed cooling, when cooling isn't really necessary, can be bad for high speed cooling.

Any kind of scoop in the hood at low speed will allow air to escape under the hood when rock crawling or just driving slow.

But at high speed it will presurize the engine compartment and will therefore DECREASE the pressure gradient between the front of the radiators and the rear. This will REDUCE cooling at a time when you most need it.

Tooling along the trail your Gladiator needs somewhere between 10 and 25 hp. You are moving slowly. Even if you are rock crawling, the high forces involved are occurring at very low speeds so the power required is still minimal.

In contrast, driving on the highway at 75 mph requires somewhere around 80 hp.
Towing a trailer up a hill at 50 mph could require 250 hp.

Somehow people don't seem to grasp that the most stressful thing you can do to your engine, transmission, and brakes is simply drive on the highway. Offroading, unless you are desert running, is Childs play. There simply isn't enough power required to stress any of those items and there isn't enough speed/kinetic energy to stress the brakes.
 

BearFootSam

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I'll recommend the book The Romance of Engines by Takashi Suzuki. The Romance of Engines (sae.org) Dr. Suzuki has a few chapters on the successes and failures of several automotive and aircraft platforms. Great read with interesting bits of design philosophy.

M
 

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dcmdon

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I'll recommend the book The Romance of Engines by Takashi Suzuki. The Romance of Engines (sae.org) Dr. Suzuki has a few chapters on the successes and failures of several automotive and aircraft platforms. Great read with interesting bits of design philosophy.

M
Have you read any of Kevin Cameron's stuff?? The books are mostly collections of his columns.

The first one is Top Dead Center, is primarily a reprint of his best TDC columns.

Kevin is fiercely smart and has a great wit. He was one of the top privateer tuners in the motorcycle racing world in the 1970s.

I once asked him the best way to put together my dual disk brake sysetm to minimize air. He answered "In a swimming pool filled with brake fluid, of course, but what's best isn't always practical".

Ha. When I went off to engineering school he sent me a book "To Engineer is Human" which is another great read.

**Edit**Thanks for the tip. I just bought a used copy of Romance of Engines for $7.19 with shipping and tax from Texas Book Consignments!!
 

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Have you read any of Kevin Cameron's stuff?? The books are mostly collections of his columns.

The first one is Top Dead Center, is primarily a reprint of his best TDC columns.

Kevin is fiercely smart and has a great wit. He was one of the top privateer tuners in the motorcycle racing world in the 1970s.

I once asked him the best way to put together my dual disk brake sysetm to minimize air. He answered "In a swimming pool filled with brake fluid, of course, but what's best isn't always practical".

Ha. When I went off to engineering school he sent me a book "To Engineer is Human" which is another great read.

**Edit**Thanks for the tip. I just bought a used copy of Romance of Engines for $7.19 with shipping and tax from Texas Book Consignments!!
I knew Kevin. Met him in Daytona in '76. When I was racing a TZ 350. Funny guy. Didn't know that someone's brain could have that much knowledge in it. He's still writing.
 

Medical_Bartender

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I removed the underhood insulation. Installation is not for the timid. It is a disaster to get everything done perfectly. I also ended up with one small ding from my jigsaw jumping out on the last cut even with tape around the work area. A blanket is probably a better idea.

Its like 40 holes 16 long cuts with a jigsaw some unibit holes all through 3 layers of aluminum.

Not sure how a cut off wheel would cut through aluminum. the best option is likely a oscillating saw!
After installing the same louvers on my JK i'm all too familiar with how scary it can be throughout the whole process LOL. I used a dewalt angle grinder with a cutting wheel and it cut through the hood like butter, although it sent sparks/future microrust all over the place...might give an oscillating saw a try on this one as you suggested. Gracias.
 

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BearFootSam

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Have you read any of Kevin Cameron's stuff?? The books are mostly collections of his columns.

The first one is Top Dead Center, is primarily a reprint of his best TDC columns.

Kevin is fiercely smart and has a great wit. He was one of the top privateer tuners in the motorcycle racing world in the 1970s.

I once asked him the best way to put together my dual disk brake sysetm to minimize air. He answered "In a swimming pool filled with brake fluid, of course, but what's best isn't always practical".

Ha. When I went off to engineering school he sent me a book "To Engineer is Human" which is another great read.

**Edit**Thanks for the tip. I just bought a used copy of Romance of Engines for $7.19 with shipping and tax from Texas Book Consignments!!
I enjoy Mr. Cameron's columns. I bought my first motorcycle when I was a poor 18 year old student to save money and fell in love with the mechanical world.
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