Cracked both rear sway bar end link mounts. Back plate? Weld?

[Aonarch]

I always ask are you lifted?

If so are your shocks the proper length, do you have appropriate bump stops, and do you have extended links?

That mount seems to be the fuse in the rear.

Plating it would probably help.

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[Rusty PW]

Yup. There's not a lot of material there, and when these things flex, no matter how the rear is flexed, when it's at limits, there are stresses that are not exactly straight down or straight up. There are angular pulls as well. The more I look - the more concerned I am about lifted Jeeps and things not being exactly right as far as shocks, and sway bar links.
That axle swings down and to the side a bit, that bushing in the stock type link is going to resist turning, and that bolt sticks out, not supported on the head end.




I can't say anything good or bad about them yet - but I do wonder - since these frames and perhaps some other structural pieces, are high strength steel, and knowing that high strength steel is a different formulation and needs DIFFERENT welding materials and techniques - any thoughts as to if that's playing a role anywhere?

One of the things I was thinking about. Is removing the threaded insert. Then welding in a block of 1/2" steel that has a threaded hole. Or making a double shear mount. The other thing I can't figure out. Why did they use that type of end instead of a ball joint.

If the frame is like a Power Wagon frame. The frame was heat treated after welding.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

One of the things I was thinking about. Is removing the threaded insert. Then welding in a block of 1/2" steel that has a threaded hole. Or making a double shear mount. The other thing I can't figure out. Why did they use that type of end instead of a ball joint.

If the frame is like a Power Wagon frame. The frame was heat treated after welding.

I have no idea why they didn't use a ball type joint....... it makes little sense unless they figured the rear would be more stable in movement - wrong.

This is a different steel used in these even before any heat treating. They are a low carbon steel and will fracture more easily once they reach that point.
High strength steel like these frames use shows a reduced plastic ductility and brittle fracture compared to a lot of mild steel. It allows them to use thinner steel, a lighter frame, and still be as strong. Welding to it is different than welding to mild or other carbon steels. But it will crack more than bend once it reaches that point.

 

[jsalbre]

I always ask are you lifted?

If so are your shocks the proper length, do you have appropriate bump stops, and do you have extended links?

That mount seems to be the fuse in the rear.

Plating it would probably help.

Your comment brings up my one concern with reinforcing that mounting hole: what the weak spot now? Will you bust the link? Rip the mount completely off the frame? Damage the axle side swaybar mount?

 

[fourfa]

Given this thread and others like it, would a set of rear discos be a smart move for wheeling? I searched on this topic, there weren't a lot of results, and most of them said "not needed" or something like it.

 

[sass JT]

Given this thread and others like it, would a set of rear discos be a smart move for wheeling? I searched on this topic, there weren't a lot of results, and most of them said "not needed" or something like it.

 

[Renegade]

Someone asked me in one of the other threads about this for pictures of the support bracket I fabricated. I couldn’t find the old photos, but here are some new ones. Forgive me for how dirty it is. It’s winter…

 

[Rummie]

Guess I should have taken care of the crack before going on another trip...

 

[Rummie]

Sounds like Metalcloak will be coming out with a brace soon.

 

[chorky]

Given this thread and others like it, would a set of rear discos be a smart move for wheeling? I searched on this topic, there weren't a lot of results, and most of them said "not needed" or something like it.

I would think anti-rock would be a good compromise... Have that on the front of my TJ and like it quite a bit. Would be cool to see how it does adding to the rear also.

Oh interesting. Did I hear correctly he claimed more distance WITH than without?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I would think anti-rock would be a good compromise... Have that on the front of my TJ and like it quite a bit. Would be cool to see how it does adding to the rear also.


Oh interesting. Did I hear correctly he claimed more distance WITH than without?

Hard to believe since sway bars not only limit the difference between sides, but limit how far the axle can move from the frame (or lower control arm from the chassis in the IFS vehicles)
I have to remove sway bar links to get lower control arms of a IFS car to swing down farther.

 

[mx5red]

I bought a used AEV spacer lift from somebody here, and one rear link still had that nutsert attached?. He obviously ripped his out.
That technically is “lifted” but longer sway links and shock extensions should mean it would work like stock… so I’m assuming this can happen stock as well, not just lifted Jeeps.

 

[chorky]

Hard to believe since sway bars not only limit the difference between sides, but limit how far the axle can move from the frame (or lower control arm from the chassis in the IFS vehicles)
I have to remove sway bar links to get lower control arms of a IFS car to swing down farther.

That's what I like about it on my TJ anyway - it gave me about 3-4 more inches of flex but also some stability from off camber roads. It also doesn't limit how much droop the axle has. That's limited (currently) by my shock (need to get a limit strap). Still a sway bar, but less restrictive than the factory one. I suppose in really hard flex one might still have concerns of frame damage, although they mount with 2 bolts instead of just one like factory

 

[49Gramps]

I believe this is one of the reasons why AEV used a secondary/doubler plate in this area on their DualSport lifts. Surprised there aren't more out there, it's a fairly simple design.

Just ripped my AEV bracket where the sway bar mounts....

 

[chorky]

Just ripped my AEV bracket where the sway bar mounts....

Wow! well that's interesting... how did hat even happen? Maybe the bracket was already fatigued? Did you hit a rock on the bottom side of the link?

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