CSF radiator and transmission cooler install….diesel

[Rusty PW]

You guys want to make me to spend more money.

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[3TDJEEP]

Got the CSF Radiator and trans cooler installed and removed the Horns, never use them.
Want to thank Chance575 for posting about this mod.
We have been in the mid 90's and it does help, takes longer to get to 220*+ and will cool down faster. I still use the Tazar fan on option as 6*+ grades 7k+ lbs 38's etc going 70mph makes some heat.

Nice. I have a brand new CSF Racing radiator, Mishimoto trans oil cooler, 2024 OEM grill, and Zerex Yellow coolant in the garage waiting to be installed. I should probably get the aluminum tank as I'm sure the plastic one will fail at some point. And probably in the middle of some long trip.

I do plan on giving the radiator and cooler a light coat of Eastwood's radiator satin black spray paint. And I'm planning to move the horns, I want every square inch of air flow that I can get.

 

[3TDJEEP]

@caryt Quick question. I noticed the left and right mounting bracket/posts on my CSF radiator are at different angles. Hoping this was not some sort of manufacturing error. Do you recall if your radiators mounting posts were welded it different angles?

 

[caryt]

Looks like yours skipped QC so let them know, hope you didn't start the disassembly.

 

[caryt]

Just a FYI I'm going to put the horns back on as I don't think I gained anything with their removal except a little weight

 

[Rusty PW]

@caryt Quick question. I noticed the left and right mounting bracket/posts on my CSF radiator are at different angles. Hoping this was not some sort of manufacturing error. Do you recall if your radiators mounting posts were welded it different angles?

Seen their video ad for the radiator. It shows the radiator and the mounts are straight and even. Yours is not. I would contact them about it.

 

[rubicon4wheeler]

Mine has impeccable build quality, not sure how yours wound up like that. However, I don't think the angle of that bracket would affect anything. It should mount up fine without causing any problems. I'd run it.

 

[Madtom]

any update from folks running the CSF rad/cooler ? this is on my list of things i want to do but need mo money for lol

 

[caryt]

I installed it with their trans cooler, takes longer to get the fluids past 200 even in 100* heat.
On 100*+ days going down the road 65-70 will keep temps great, I have fan setting on using the Tazer. 6* grades you will still have to have the fan on. I drive fast 65-70 hills or not and can reach 224* water, trans 210* which is ok but oil can hit 240*+ so an oil cooler is something they need. Once the hill is over it cools fast. I'd plumb one to the spare tire area with a fan the largest that's reasonable as I have lots of room as I do not carry a spare. First need to see long term usage of a remote cooler. Worried about the effects on oil pressure.

So water temps and trans temps are not the issue, IMO a properly designed oil cooler that could maintain 210* temps under any condition is all that we need.

Pictures had a 15mph head wind.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

So water temps and trans temps are not the issue, IMO a properly designed oil cooler that could maintain 210* temps under any condition is all that we need.

Someone on here, I can't recall who, added a remote oil cooler in the factory DEF tank location, and claimed to see a pretty good drop in oil temps. I think it was in the large Diesel cooling options and ideas thread, somewhere near the end.

 

[NCJL]

Someone on here, I can't recall who, added a remote oil cooler in the factory DEF tank location, and claimed to see a pretty good drop in oil temps. I think it was in the large Diesel cooling options and ideas thread, somewhere near the end.

Maybe me. Thinking my journey started around page 50 in Diesel cooling options thread.
I installed the remote oil cooler on the passenger side opposite the DEF tank.
It keeps oil temps below *240 when towing grades with fan ON. Everyday normal driving. Low *220’s fan OFF.
My jeep’s weight is about 7k, 42’s with 5.13 gears. Trailer is about 4k. I live in the Mountains. Nothing but Grades.
Heat Soak is still an issue after about 6 hours continuous driving on National Forest type trails. 15/30mph. Some 4 low.
Burping the coolant system made a huge difference too.
Maintaining *210 oil temps on the highway, not towing is doable.

 

[caryt]

Thanks great to know.
Questions: Oil pressure drop overall and what are you running once the oil hits 220* running down the freeway on flat roads.
Loss when you hit 240* going up grades.
Are you also using a Tazer fan on for the Radiator?

 

[NCJL]

Oil pressure: This was also my biggest concern when I started this. I went thru many variations to maintain factory oil pressure. This was 3 years ago. The universal Amsoil bypass mount is what I ended with. The exit port has plug that is drilled out (1/8”ish). This hole sets the flow. This size works with no changes in oil pressure. I tested with a few different hole sizes, a 64th makes a difference.
The only time I noticed oil pressure drop below factory normal was when I would stop/idle with oil temps above *240 and a larger hole. Depending on the oil type PSI would be 15 to 18. Factory was 18 to 20 psi with oil temps below *220.
Currently, using Amsoil MS oil, I do not see any oil PSI changes. I change oil between 5 and 7k miles.
I will document the psi at 220 and 240 while driving. I’ll need to do a specific drive to see the 240.
I do have a Tazer, however never did the fan thing. Didn’t think it was a long time solution.

 

[caryt]

So in your opinion using a -10 lines by removing the 2 plugs then going to a low restriction cooler would drop the oil pressure to much? Based on what I have found on the pump I assumed it would handle it fine :

variable-displacement (variable volume and pressure) oil pump system controlled to match engine speed, load, and oil temperature. It is a mechanical positive-displacement pump with adjustable output flow Pump Design and OperationVariable Displacement: The pump alters its internal geometry (or stroke/flow capacity) to change the volume of oil it delivers based on immediate engine demand, which directly alters and optimizes the resulting oil pressure.Mechanical Speed:

The pump is driven directly by the engine, meaning its rotational speed rises and falls strictly with engine RPM, but its output per revolution varies.Calculated Dash Readout: The oil pressure displayed on the dash is a computed algorithmic value derived from engine speed and oil temperature rather than a live reading from a traditional high-accuracy variable pressure transducer.

Traditional oil pumps are fixed positive-displacement pumps—the faster the engine spins, the more oil they force out, wasting energy by bleeding off excess high-pressure oil back into the oil pan via a relief valve. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
The Gen 3 EcoDiesel pump optimizes this using a sliding or pivoting eccentric mechanism: []

• • The Vane Design: Inside the pump, a rotor with sliding vanes spins within an outer control ring (stator). [1, 2, 3]
  • Changing Eccentricity: The Engine Control Module (ECM) regulates an oil flow control solenoid valve. This valve directs pressurized oil to a hydraulic chamber behind the outer control ring, altering its alignment relative to the rotor. [1, 2]
  • Controlling Volume: Moving the outer ring changes the size of the internal fluid pockets (the displacement). Aligning the ring closer to the center reduces the volume capacity per revolution, while moving it off-center increases volume capacity. [1, 2]

Pressure States and Operating Parameters
The system operates primarily in two stages managed dynamically by the truck's ECM based on engine speed, engine load, and oil temperature: [1, 2, 3, 4]

Operating StateEngine ConditionsTarget Pressure (Warm Engine)Functional PurposeLow-Pressure StageWarm idle up to low/mid-load cruising.~8 to 22 PSIMinimizes engine drag when heavy lubrication and cooling load are not required.High-Pressure StageCold starts, high RPM, heavy acceleration, or towing.~30 to 80 PSIMaximizes flow to oil cooling jets to protect the pistons, wrist pins, and bearings.

Critical Notes for Owners & Mechanics

• • The "Failsafe" Mode: If the oil pump control solenoid fails or loses electrical connection, the pump naturally defaults to its maximum displacement configuration. This safety measure ensures the engine always receives maximum lubrication to prevent catastrophic failure, though fuel economy will drop slightly. [1]
  • The Dashboard Gauge: Owners should note that the dashboard oil pressure reading on a stock Ram 1500 or Jeep is often a calculated algorithm handled by the computer based on RPM and oil temperature, rather than a direct, live reading from a mechanical sensor. [1, 2]
  • Low Pressure Warning: Because the pump allows the pressure to sit around 8–12 PSI at a fully warmed idle, using an incorrect oil viscosity or an unseated oil filter element can easily trick or trip the low pressure warning switch on the vehicle. Always stick strictly to the manufacturer-specified 5W-40 synthetic oil

 

[NCJL]

No. Using the 2 plugs on the bottom of the oil filter housing as a supply and return would not change the factory oil psi. In theory……
I was not willing to extend a 100% of the engine oiling system outside of the engine itself. If so, a much higher level of installation would be required, specifically hoses should probably be hard lines with crimped hose for movement. Like the brake system, only larger.
I also thought the higher volume would require a much larger oil cooler.
I taped into the oiling system. I only have 2’ of external hose that is under pressure. I don’t even like that.

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