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Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug

JTGuy

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Put the socket on the gun and the plug in the socket, Bam its in.
 

Janster

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Yeah exactly, and if he did that I wonder what he dropped in the oil filter hole and didn't tell anyone, 🤔
<plugging ears> La la laaaalalalalaaaa….. La La….🤣
 

Janster

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Just reason 4389 to get a Fumoto drain valve.
Makes draining the oil a tool less event.

https://www.fumotousa.com/f106s.html
Yup….. I had one on my Tacoma for years.

Not good if you do any offroading because they stick down and could get sheered off. Unless you have a belly skid plate that protects it.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Yup….. I had one on my Tacoma for years.

Not good if you do any offroading because they stick down and could get sheered off. Unless you have a belly skid plate that protects it.
I'm old school - what's the problem with using a wrench, and, pulling a plug so that every last drop comes out of that pan that can come out of that pan - without another fitting sticking up through the threads preventing full empty.
I guess - I don't get the attraction, unless you run skid plates that make the oil drain difficult to get to. You are reaching down there anyway, reach down there with wrench in hand. And take a minute to look around under there - see what's what, just in case.
 

Hootbro

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I'm old school - what's the problem with using a wrench, and, pulling a plug so that every last drop comes out of that pan that can come out of that pan - without another fitting sticking up through the threads preventing full empty.
I guess - I don't get the attraction, unless you run skid plates that make the oil drain difficult to get to. You are reaching down there anyway, reach down there with wrench in hand. And take a minute to look around under there - see what's what, just in case.
You have a hard time processing that people do things different than you.
 

ShadowsPapa

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You have a hard time processing that people do things different than you.
Why, because I don't see the big deal unless it's obstructed?
I gave my reasons, they have theirs. All I did was state why I don't use them (aside from faster drain as well)
I didn't suggest they were a bad idea.
So I can't do it differently and say why?
 

MikeNH

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Just reason 4389 to get a Fumoto drain valve.
Makes draining the oil a tool less event.

https://www.fumotousa.com/f106s.html
If you’re gonna DIY it then do your thing but adding anything non-factory is only gonna confuse the entry level kid they have changing oil. I know how to use a wrench so I’ve never seen the value in this but to each their own I guess.
 

ShadowsPapa

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If you’re gonna DIY it then do your thing but adding anything non-factory is only gonna confuse the entry level kid they have changing oil. I know how to use a wrench so I’ve never seen the value in this but to each their own I guess.
And that's all I was trying to say - I don't get the draw, I've done thousands of oil changes with a wrench. It drains FASTER, MAYBE more completely, and you should look around under there anyway.
I get ripped for stating why I don't use, and why I just don't have any attraction to it and why.
Just a different point.

Some say "you REALLY need this! Wow!"

I just shrug - oh, ok, not me. And wonder - why would I need it?

Yeah, to each their own.

I never said anyone using it was lazy, a fool, or spending dumb money - now THAT would be different.

Time to bow out again.........
 

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smlobx

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Yup….. I had one on my Tacoma for years.

Not good if you do any offroading because they stick down and could get sheered off. Unless you have a belly skid plate that protects it.
They make ones that are shorter and I have never had an issue with anything touching it. If you look carefully the location is several inches higher than other parts of the Jeep around it.
 

KevinM60

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I hate using power or air tools to get threads started. I use my hands…..
And sometimes, depending on the situation…..I‘ll go old-school and just use a ratchet for the entire thing. I like being able to ‘feel’ the threads as you tighten and being able to stop immediately if something doesn’t feel right.

All that drives my husband crazy….😆 He’s always in there with power tools just to save 60 seconds. 😉
I have the air and electric impacts, ratchets and more - still, I prefer to feel that it actually started properly. Sometimes the very end thread can be slightly damaged or dinged, and you can tell that by starting that bolt/nut/screw by hand - not with an impact or whatever. Impact or power tools are made to finish the job you start, IMO.
I understand the factory point of view - my father worked in one for decades, but then they are so used to what they are doing some could do it in their sleep - muscle memory, holding the tool at the perfect angle using the exact right force.
It's different when you aren't doing 100 of them an hour.
I remove the bolt with my power driver, but I like starting by hand to replace them and then put the power driver on with a low torque setting. When you have a lot of bolts to take in and out it can save a lot of time and effort. When you get the feel of the power driver it's like firing an automatic weapon by using quick bursts instead of just holding the trigger down. I do like to finish them up by hand to tighten to what feels right for that specific bolt and application or a specific torque setting if required.
 

NC_Overland

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I'm old school - what's the problem with using a wrench, and, pulling a plug so that every last drop comes out of that pan that can come out of that pan - without another fitting sticking up through the threads preventing full empty.
I guess - I don't get the attraction, unless you run skid plates that make the oil drain difficult to get to. You are reaching down there anyway, reach down there with wrench in hand. And take a minute to look around under there - see what's what, just in case.
I agree. I also see it as another possible failure point.
 

fourfa

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I have a full set of belly skids (Next Venture Motorsport) on my truck. It has an oval drain slot for oil, but unfortunately the oil does not drain straight thru the slot - sometime it gurgles and glugs and occasionally a little hot air apparently gets trapped and blows a nasty bubble through the oil. This is thicker diesel oil; I dunno maybe this never happens on the pentastar with 0W20. Hot bubble of air ends up doing this with burning hot oil while you’re under there pulling that bolt:
Jeep Gladiator Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug IMG_6096

If this were more common I’m sure we would all be complaining, so maybe this was a one-off. Oh well. But more seriously, the oil dribbles all over the inside of the skid plates and runs EVERYWHERE. It drips out for days out of the most unpredictable places all over my clean driveway, and eventually forms sticky sludge when I take it off-road. Pulling the oil pan skid plate and getting all the interlocking bits to line up again is not something I want to be doing all the time if I can avoid it

I put a Valvomax on. Low profile (about the same as the stock plug), has a cap with a seal that lives on it, and there’s a one-way valve inside that’s opened by a screw-on hose fitting. Hose goes all the way down into the drain pan. No more dribble and sludge.

YMMV but for me there was a problem, this was the solution, and along the way it‘s now a faster cleaner and easier oil change than any vehicle I’ve ever owned, so I’m happy
 
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WILDHOBO

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Yup….. I had one on my Tacoma for years.

Not good if you do any offroading because they stick down and could get sheered off. Unless you have a belly skid plate that protects it.
Yep. I just remade my engine skid to not even have the big oval for oil changes. This is all I need with the valve.

Jeep Gladiator Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug IMG_2605


Jeep Gladiator Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug IMG_2604


Jeep Gladiator Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug IMG_2603
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