Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug

[WILDHOBO]

I plan to replace the oil pan at next oil change, did a deep dive on RTV sealant vs gasket. I leaning towards using a Fel-Pro gasket. Any thoughts?

What pan are you planning to use?

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[ShadowsPapa]

I plan to replace the oil pan at next oil change, did a deep dive on RTV sealant vs gasket. I leaning towards using a Fel-Pro gasket. Any thoughts?

I've used Felpro on all of my classic builds, 4.0s, 258s, SBCs, and others. I've had good luck and no leaks.

I've had more experience with RTV than I care to remember.
I've found a process that works for ME - and has for many years.
Most people make the mistake of gooping up a gasket with RTV until it almost drips off the gasket, or the sealing surface of whatever the project is.
I used a THIN layer on the parts or gasket - thin.
I assemble things - and do not yet torque the bolts to final torque. Most of the time I go "hand tight" with them. I then let the RTV set up.
I go back and do final tightening later.
What happens with some folks is they use so much it acts like a grease - they slap it together, and tighten things to torque (or more) and the gasket easily slips and slides or is shoved out of place - or the RTV acting like grease, allows the gasket to literally be squeezed apart.
I've never had an engine or transmission leak after taking the time to use only small amounts, and letting it set up, even if only some, before final tightening.

 

[Fishpilot]

Mopar OEM lower pan
https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-engine-oil-pan-68313584ad?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtb2lsaW5nLW9pbC1wYW4tYW5kLWluZGljYXRvci1kaXBzdGljayZsPTE3Jm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9amVlcCZvPWdsYWRpYXRvciZ5PTIwMjImdD1zcG9ydC1zJmU9My02bC12Ni1nYXM=

 

[WILDHOBO]

Mopar OEM lower pan
https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-engine-oil-pan-68313584ad?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtb2lsaW5nLW9pbC1wYW4tYW5kLWluZGljYXRvci1kaXBzdGljayZsPTE3Jm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9amVlcCZvPWdsYWRpYXRvciZ5PTIwMjImdD1zcG9ydC1zJmU9My02bC12Ni1nYXM=

I’d love to put the PPE pan on mine, but it might KILL me to no longer have an even 5qt oil change. Kill me dead.

 

[KevinM60]

I've used Felpro on all of my classic builds, 4.0s, 258s, SBCs, and others. I've had good luck and no leaks.

I've had more experience with RTV than I care to remember.
I've found a process that works for ME - and has for many years.
Most people make the mistake of gooping up a gasket with RTV until it almost drips off the gasket, or the sealing surface of whatever the project is.
I used a THIN layer on the parts or gasket - thin.
I assemble things - and do not yet torque the bolts to final torque. Most of the time I go "hand tight" with them. I then let the RTV set up.
I go back and do final tightening later.
What happens with some folks is they use so much it acts like a grease - they slap it together, and tighten things to torque (or more) and the gasket easily slips and slides or is shoved out of place - or the RTV acting like grease, allows the gasket to literally be squeezed apart.
I've never had an engine or transmission leak after taking the time to use only small amounts, and letting it set up, even if only some, before final tightening.

Once you tighten it down only a thin layer remains in place to seal the surfaces. I'm always concerned about the overloaded sealant squeezing out and floating around in the engine (or trans) until it clogs something.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Once you tighten it down only a thin layer remains in place to seal the surfaces. I'm always concerned about the overloaded sealant squeezing out and floating around in the engine (or trans) until it clogs something.

That's another reason I use it sparingly. I've watched guys ruin gaskets when using too much and it let the gasket move around. In some cases the gasket distorted and actually tore.
That and the pieces in things - I've cleaned oil pump pickup screens that had small chunks of RTV in them partially blocking the screen

 

[Stan H]

In my opinion imI have always used it in water areas . I am scared to death to use it in oil areas , but that thin strip in the middle of the sealing plain is how I have approached it on things I had no choice with. I have also taken that thin thin strip and used my finger and smeared it out at a super thin amout evenly .
I had to use RTV on a Gonda goldwing motor once . Case split in half around the middle came factory with RTV so it had to go back that way. I was successful with that approach . As stated never use a heavy amount.

 

[Fishpilot]

Most YouTubers put the RTV in the oil pan valleys and around the holes. Here’s a Chrysler illustration that shows the RTV on the inside of the oil pan valleys which make more sense to me. I know not our 3.6 but similar.

 

[WILDHOBO]

In my opinion imI have always used it in water areas . I am scared to death to use it in oil areas , but that thin strip in the middle of the sealing plain is how I have approached it on things I had no choice with. I have also taken that thin thin strip and used my finger and smeared it out at a super thin amout evenly .
I had to use RTV on a Gonda goldwing motor once . Case split in half around the middle came factory with RTV so it had to go back that way. I was successful with that approach . As stated never use a heavy amount.

I rebuilt a 3.0 liter v6 mercury 225hp 2 stroke outboard in 2010. The crank case (block) connected to the intake side with marine grade rtv from the factory. I wish I could find the pictures, but it’s been a while. The service manual diagramed the pattern and thickness of the entire bead, which bolted holes to encircle, which ones to go past, etc. I was extremely careful to get it exactly how they wanted it. They knew what they were doing, cuz they’re in Wisconsin.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I like "Right Stuff" for V8s with an intake that covers the lifter valley area - instead of the rubber seals, I build up Right Stuff and allow it to start to set before the final torque.
They always said in the instructions to put RTV in the corners where the heads met the block, as well as where the rubber pan end seals met the pan side rail gaskets. It's another place - use enough, but not too much. Allow total curing before use.

For thermostat housings, things with coolant, an anaerobic sealer works well.

 

[Stan H]

They knew what they were doing, cuz they’re in Wisconsin
[/QUOTE]
lol, hey I stayed at a Holiday Inn before .

 

[WILDHOBO]

They knew what they were doing, cuz they’re in Wisconsin

lol, hey I stayed at a Holiday Inn before .
[/QUOTE]
They didn’t have holiday inn express when mercury put out that engine I don’t think.

 

[Lost1wing]

Those free oil changes are not really free. Oil coolers cracked, drain plugs cross threaded, wrong oil, too much oil or not enough oil. I've read enough stories to make me want to avoid having just anyone touching my stuff.

However, I get it. Some are just not qualified to fog a mirror much less change their oil. Some people are just physically challenged and can't do it. Those are the ones I feel sorry for. I do a lot of oil changes every year and I wonder how one could cross thread a coarse thread bolt.

 

[Lost1wing]

I've used Felpro on all of my classic builds, 4.0s, 258s, SBCs, and others. I've had good luck and no leaks.

I've had more experience with RTV than I care to remember.
I've found a process that works for ME - and has for many years.
Most people make the mistake of gooping up a gasket with RTV until it almost drips off the gasket, or the sealing surface of whatever the project is.
I used a THIN layer on the parts or gasket - thin.
I assemble things - and do not yet torque the bolts to final torque. Most of the time I go "hand tight" with them. I then let the RTV set up.
I go back and do final tightening later.
What happens with some folks is they use so much it acts like a grease - they slap it together, and tighten things to torque (or more) and the gasket easily slips and slides or is shoved out of place - or the RTV acting like grease, allows the gasket to literally be squeezed apart.
I've never had an engine or transmission leak after taking the time to use only small amounts, and letting it set up, even if only some, before final tightening.

I repaired a TDI oil pressure issue a few years back. Oil pressure was fine at start up and on the initial drive. Then the oil pressure light would start to flicker. It had a new switch unit already installed. I installed my tester and verified 45psi at start and slowly decreased to 22-25 psi. While driving the oil pressure dropped further to 6psi. After dropping the pan the get at the oil pump, I looked at the pickup tube that looked like debris stuck in it. Sure enough, it was silicone rubber from the previous oil pan removal. What ever was squeezed out broke off and was picked up by the oil pump pickup tube. The screen kept it out of the pump.

So yes, too much silicone is not a good thing. I like gaskets myself. I have used silicon.

 

[wranglerrush]

I’d be concerned about the oil filter housing, if they cross threaded a bolt that literally spins itself in

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