Driveshaft, I definitely got the shaft.

[chadinsc]

the replacement cv didn’t look like that. i think it was heat from loosing its grease. but i honestly have no idea. you could be absolutely right. here is the replacement. the replacement was a fairly cheap amazon part ($60-70)but worked fine for over a year before i sold it.

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[Pescatoral Pursuit]

What were you expecting when you didn't correct the driveline geometry after a significant suspension lift, and then went flexing off-road?

You shafted yourself, no?

 

[sass JT]

Oh man… sorry to see this op. Just like @Summitdan said… those bolts are way soft. Glad yo hear that you hot an awesome shop to help you

 

[WILDHOBO]

Oh man… sorry to see this op. Just like @Summitdan said… those bolts are way soft. Glad yo hear that you hot an awesome shop to help you

Definitely. What a great resource.

 

[Minty JL]

I don’t envy that project. It was hard enough getting an only mildly damaged one out. I highly recommend hand tools, no matter how much it sucks. Those bolts are a bit soft.

Anytime I replace critical hardware on a build I pony up and buy ARP. All of the manufacturers using these TTY bolts is garbage.

 

[LostWoods]

What were you expecting when you didn't correct the driveline geometry after a significant suspension lift, and then went flexing off-road?

You shafted yourself, no?

He's blunt but he's right. You can actually angle the pinion up fairly high since they're CV joints and you don't need to match angles like with a u-joint. Just need to make sure you don't go so far the spring perch angle becomes an issue.

 

[Jefferyfica]

He's blunt but he's right. You can actually angle the pinion up fairly high since they're CV joints and you don't need to match angles like with a u-joint. Just need to make sure you don't go so far the spring perch angle becomes an issue.

Well it’s a bold statement to make purely assuming it was a do it yourself garage install. However not knowing the kit was completely installed by Saints Customs in Covina Ca, a very reputable off-road shop. The drive shaft was completely realigned along with the needed front end alignment. They take all vehicles back in after 1500 miles for re-torquing as well re-checking aliments after the 1500 miles.
This situation after closely evaluating it comes down to the crap Jeeps used to make this drive line. And the torque in the diesel motor that’s being applied from the Banks power system. Along with 37” tires and very heavy black rhino bead-lock rims.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The blueing you are seeing is from the heat treatment / hardening of the part during manufacturing.

Exactly. You see that on the axles I use as well, and on the ends of push rods and other parts that are heat treated.

What were you expecting when you didn't correct the driveline geometry after a significant suspension lift, and then went flexing off-road?

You shafted yourself, no?

He's blunt but he's right. You can actually angle the pinion up fairly high since they're CV joints and you don't need to match angles like with a u-joint. Just need to make sure you don't go so far the spring perch angle becomes an issue.

What is the typical max with these - 37?

Yes, you don't need to match angles on CV joints. You do with cardan type joints, and if there's only one CV joint and one cardan joint on the same shaft, then you must run the cross or cardan joint at near 0 degrees or shake the crap out of your truck, the angle on the CV won't matter as long as it's not near max or causes you to hit max angle.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This situation after closely evaluating it comes down to the crap Jeeps used to make this drive line.

No, that joint exceeded the max angle. It wasn't the "crap" used.

And I don't care how "reputable" a shop is - it's people, and maybe they've had no issues for other factors.
I've seen the very best of shops fall on their face. Saying "it's not possible there was anything wrong" coming out of that shop is like saying they hire people who never in their lives have ever made mistakes and are the best engineers in the world.
Look at the wear pattern on the shaft and the fact all bolt heads are splayed outward - it was pushed beyond it's design limits as far as angle. It's truly that simple. And yes, I run a reputable shop myself LOL 50 years experience ;-)

 

[DBravo]

Well yet another major problem. I heard something clinking around under the gladiator and this is what I find. 11477 miles twice off road on real trails. I definitely had plans to replace it, I guess now’s the time. The fronts been done from the beginning due to the 4” EVO lift kit. The arch was to far out so I replaced it with Reel drivelines out in Pomona. I’ve used them before never had any issues.

 

[Jteakus]

So what is the fix here? I run a 3.5" with BFG 37's. Should I adjust the rear control arms so that the pinion is looking straight at the DS? Carrier bearing spacer? Aftermarket DS?

 

[Jefferyfica]

Well as for my plan, a Reel custom built 1350 heavy duty two piece drive shaft. I’ve owned two prior to my gladiator and never had this sort of issue before. I had this one installed a few months back on the front differential. There was no way the stock one would have even worked with the amount of lift I added.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

And the torque in the diesel motor that’s being applied from the Banks power system. Along with 37” tires and very heavy black rhino bead-lock rims.

I don't see how this would cause the problem here. It appears to be something that was over-angled, not something that was over-torqued. How would the latter lead to the former?
You essentially have a 4 link rear suspension. The only way to change that angle is by (over)flexing one or both wheels.

This situation after closely evaluating it comes down to the crap Jeeps used to make this drive line.

Maybe there is an argument to be made that one should be able to max the angle of that joint and not blow it out like that.

Should I adjust the rear control arms so that the pinion is looking straight at the DS?

You don't want to do that to a highway vehicle. There needs to be some angle to revolve the bearings.

If you're worried about clearances and angles. Take it to a shop, put it on the ramp, flex it out and check/ modify accordingly.

 

[mrmo]

That cardan joint can bind at severe angles too. On my mud truck w 8" of lift and 44's i had to relieve some areas where you could see marks where it was hitting

 

[spiveyracing]

metalcloak has a shaft prebuilt for mild lifts.

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