Genesis system - how much space after install

[Mr._Bill]

Well it wont fit for me having the rubicon anyway…. But yeah I mean thats obvious theres loss with a 20’ wire run. I noticed a decent loss yesterday testing my dual compressor after hooking it up. How much I am not sure, gotta take some measurements first. But I would argue that the genesis kit and the setup darkhorse and Mr Bill have can be used similarly, with a couple exceptions. Of course the dc/dc system is optimal for power utilization while camping but solar and shore power can be hooked up to both systems. but they all utilize amg batteries unless i misread something. The real benifit of a dc/dc that I see is to utilize a house battery of a different type, like a lithium. Or to have total battery separation Without needing to flip a switch. personally I think that different battery types is actually the inly reason to do a dc/dc. Because if a person had the genesis, and even a 3rd agm battery, you could combine all 3 when say doing a heavy winch pull. Combining a agm and lithium I dont think would turn out very good, but could be wrong on that. Genesis seems better for just eliminating the factory ass battery and provide a huge buss bar for attachments. A person could always just get the Genesis tray and do the rest of their own. I would be curious to did more into this’ battery combined’ they talk about and how it is different than a solenoid.

The Cole Hersee Isolator I use, and the one in the Genesis kit, are just Smart Solenoids that monitor voltage. They parallel all the batteries together when the engine is running, and separate them when it is off. Since the batteries are the same type (AGM), it works for charging. If they were different technologies, then something like the Redarc charger would be necessary.

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[chorky]

The Cole Hersee Isolator I use, and the one in the Genesis kit, are just Smart Solenoids that monitor voltage. They parallel all the batteries together when the engine is running, and separate them when it is off. Since the batteries are the same type (AGM), it works for charging. If they were different technologies, then something like the Redarc charger would be necessary.

right. Dc/dc is necessary for different battery types. But aside from that theres not much need for one.

They call their green 3 system as having a ‘battery combiner’ and say it draws no voltage though.

how much amperage can your cole hersee solenoid pass through?

 

[Mr._Bill]

right. Dc/dc is necessary for different battery types. But aside from that theres not much need for one.

They call their green 3 system as having a ‘battery combiner’ and say it draws no voltage though.

how much amperage can your cole hersee solenoid pass through?

It's rated at 200 amps.

Genuine Cole Hersee Smart Battery Isolator 200A 48530 48530-bx https://a.co/d/bVi16Kj

 

[darkhorse13]

Its interesting the two different approaches between your setup and genesis. They use a combiner. You use a dc/dc charger. No idea which is better. With AGM i think genesis would be a better setup. But if your using lithium for the second battery then for sure the redarc is necessary. I think a third battery really is a necessity if running more than a fridge especially considering the limited space under the hood

right. Dc/dc is necessary for different battery types. But aside from that theres not much need for one.

I'm not an expert with all of this but in no way would I ever consider the Genesis system "a better setup" over the Redarc in any battery type situation. The technology in the Redarc far exceeds the Genesis "combiner". Yes the Redarc is great for 2 different type batteries (note that I'd never run a lithium under hood battery due to heat degradation) but I've always run Redarc for my dual AGM battery setups. The Redarc is proven reliable as far as environmental harness like water and heat, it is the only DC charger with simultaneous DC and Solar inputs, it has a built-in hookup for "smart" or variable charge alternators (Genesis sells this separately and is the BIG reason they came out with a Gen 3 version in the first place) and it's multi-stage charging profile has always kept my batteries at a full 12.89V in a resting state after a drive or the hood solar sitting in the sun. I get that it's a more expensive option than the Genesis offering but if you had the know-how to mount and wire up the BCD1225 then you'd have a "better" system. I assume you know that I removed the OEM aux battery with my setup but figured I'd clarify that. I get that a Group 25 battery is not the biggest but with good solar or running the truck every now and then it's adequate. What about just getting a Goal Zero or Jackery for your "accessory" needs?

 

[chorky]

I'm not an expert with all of this but in no way would I ever consider the Genesis system "a better setup" over the Redarc in any battery type situation. The technology in the Redarc far exceeds the Genesis "combiner". Yes the Redarc is great for 2 different type batteries (note that I'd never run a lithium under hood battery due to heat degradation) but I've always run Redarc for my dual AGM battery setups. The Redarc is proven reliable as far as environmental harness like water and heat, it is the only DC charger with simultaneous DC and Solar inputs, it has a built-in hookup for "smart" or variable charge alternators (Genesis sells this separately and is the BIG reason they came out with a Gen 3 version in the first place) and it's multi-stage charging profile has always kept my batteries at a full 12.89V in a resting state after a drive or the hood solar sitting in the sun. I get that it's a more expensive option than the Genesis offering but if you had the know-how to mount and wire up the BCD1225 then you'd have a "better" system. I assume you know that I removed the OEM aux battery with my setup but figured I'd clarify that. I get that a Group 25 battery is not the biggest but with good solar or running the truck every now and then it's adequate. What about just getting a Goal Zero or Jackery for your "accessory" needs?

I'm certainly not trying to say one is better than the other.... It depends on individual usage. Here are two use examples to explain my reasoning.

Example 1
A typical camper setup. Folks want to have power for various things like a fridge, camp lights, maybe a water pump, to charge various items if camped in the same spot for a few days, and to take advantage of solar. In this situation, it would be valuable to have the house battery separated from the vehicle battery. We all know this. A DC/DC charger can, depending on model, charge batteries from solar, engine, or shore power inputs. The RedArc DC/DC works excellent to take power from the alternator while driving, and convert it into charging either a AGM, led acid, or Lithium battery. However, depending on model, it can only charge at about 30 amps. Plenty good for recharging a battery after a night or two of camping. But not so good in other situations, because 30 amps is not very much of a charge. It also does not let the two batteries merge together as a DC/DC is strictly a charger, and charger only.

Example 2
A person may want to take of similar camping power while not driving, but also wants to take advantage of a large battery bank while engaging in heavy winch pulls. Maybe they also want to hook up their winch to the aux battery instead of the main battery - for whatever reason. A Genesis (or other home made version) uses a battery combiner (still not sure what this is) or a solenoid to marry the two batteries. This is capable of transferring 300 amps or more between batteries. Significantly more amperage transfer compared to a DC/DC. Now this could be valuable if there was a bed mounted battery, and also a rear facing winch. Or maybe if a vehicle died, and needed to winch out with no engine operation - taking advantage of multiple batteries married together. The downside would be if the combiner failed, and left the batteries combined together over night while running fridge, heater, etc..and thus drained the starting battery as a result. That would not be a good situation.

So I do think it depends. In many typical cases, the DC/DC would be more beneficial - for those camping out multiple days or running some heavy electronics and charging at night, computers, YouTubers, remote work, etc... But I do think there are scenarios where the Genesis or similar style would be a better choice. It depends on usage.

As for goal zero or jackery - those are also great options - but also very expensive. I think the goal zero 1000 goes for somewhere around a thousand or 1200 bucks? For my particular situation I dont see a need to have a huge power bank, or even a lithium battery (due to temps in my area). But enough to power a fridge, water pump, water heater, and maybe charge a phone would be nice. Other items like a winch and compressor would be ran while the engine is running.

 

[Lopez75]

Just finished installing Genesis Gen3 in my 2021 gladiator Rubicon. I found that the battery chassis pushes against and partially blocks my oil dipstick. To remove the dipstick I have to slightly move the dipstick intake tube so that the dipstick handle
Can clear the Gen battery chassis. Can't do this forever without eventually loosening the dipstick intake tube right of the engine block. I am highly confident I installed the Gen3 correctly and don't see any obvious way to move the chassis in any direction based on the factory screw hole sizing, location, and the Genesis welded nut locations on the battery chassis but before I take it all apart to check if it can be moved toward the passenger fender by 3/16" to 1/2"anybody run into this problem? I had to cut the dipstick handle just to no longer have the Gen battery chassis push against the intake tube d potentially break it off over time. My last resort is to grind out a small half circle with a max radius of about 3/16" deep into the Gen battery chassis where it touches the dipstick handle so the dipstick can be easily pulled out. I am hoping some one can tell
me I did something wrong to avoid any grinding.

 

[chorky]

Just finished installing Genesis Gen3 in my 2021 gladiator Rubicon. I found that the battery chassis pushes against and partially blocks my oil dipstick. To remove the dipstick I have to slightly move the dipstick intake tube so that the dipstick handle
Can clear the Gen battery chassis. Can't do this forever without eventually loosening the dipstick intake tube right of the engine block. I am highly confident I installed the Gen3 correctly and don't see any obvious way to move the chassis in any direction based on the factory screw hole sizing, location, and the Genesis welded nut locations on the battery chassis but before I take it all apart to check if it can be moved toward the passenger fender by 3/16" to 1/2"anybody run into this problem? I had to cut the dipstick handle just to no longer have the Gen battery chassis push against the intake tube d potentially break it off over time. My last resort is to grind out a small half circle with a max radius of about 3/16" deep into the Gen battery chassis where it touches the dipstick handle so the dipstick can be easily pulled out. I am hoping some one can tell
me I did something wrong to avoid any grinding.

My 2022 does not have an engine cover. I slightly bent the oil dipstick tube with no issues so there is clearance.

 

[Lopez75]

Thanks for the reply. So I take it the battery chassis did block your dipstick and hence why you bent it slightly. Well atleast I know I am not the only one.

 

[chorky]

Thanks for the reply. So I take it the battery chassis did block your dipstick and hence why you bent it slightly. Well atleast I know I am not the only one.

I don't think it blocked it totally but it did impact enough that I needed to bend it about a half inch. But it works just fine.

 

[Lopez75]

Same here. It takes some force to get it out but can get it out but not without concern that I may eventually break/bend the tube if I keep doing it.

 

[chorky]

You should be able to bend it enough to be permanently bent and be fine. That's how mine turned out. It did take some force - but all is well. Nothing is broken and no leaks. You can take the dip stick out, put a small size deep socket on an extension in 1/2" to get good leverage.

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