Gladiator and Defrost

[Surffisher2a]

Using this thread as a legal defense would not work out very well for you, esp if someone else was hurt during an accident.

This thread would prove in court that you knew about a major safety issue with your jeep yet you willingly and recklessly decided to drive drive a vehicle that you knew was unsafe jeopardizing you and everyone around you thus making you at fault for whatever happens. A prudent person would have parked the vehicle until all safety concerns were properly alleviated.

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[Jeeperjamie]

I have not had this issue at all. I got my jeep.in February and their was frost on the windshield one morning in February but it cleared it in a matter of minutes. The air blows out hot as crap so I don't see a issue with it. Sounds like some pointless BS to worry about to me.

 

[Delhux]

Have now dealt with one full winter and the beginning of this one with a gladiator and the ice forming on the windows in a snow storm is awful. I just realized that the defroster is only blowing out of the middle of the vent and not where near the left and right side..I now have watch a bunch of videos and it appears this is how they all are. THIS IS A MASSIVE SAFETY HAZARD. @JeepCares @JeepCare how do we initiate and emergency safety recall for this. I'll be using this forum as well as many of the videos as documentation in my legal case if this is fixed immediately and I end up in a wreck.

I noticed this behavior in my truck the day I picked it up. For me, it doesn’t defrost the 1/3 of the windshield in front of the passenger seat.

I actually had to carry a piece of cardboard on my dashboard to hold over the vents to distribute the air to the passenger side.

When I spoke with Jeep over the phone, they just said “we haven’t heard of this/there is no TSB, etc.”

I have made it clear many times that I consider it a safety issue with both Jeep directly and with two separate dealers—none of which seem to even want to acknowledge or test for the issue—even though visibility (especially in winter conditions) is a huge safety concern in my opinion (if not Jeep/FCA’s).

PLEASE let me know if you get anywhere with this—I’m not looking forward to stocking up on scraps of trash to get my $60+k truck to simply defrost my windshield again this winter.

 

[Clay]

We shouldn't have to buy anything to fix the problem! There should be a recall to correct the defroster.

 

[STLMike]

Had the first frost in St Louis the other morning and I can confirm this. Middle of windshield defrosted fine. The sides of the windshield, not so good. I only felt air coming from the center of the vent.

This is not going to be fun when the ice and snow starts falling.

 

[JohnB]

No snow yet but did notice inside condensation not clearing on sides of windshield when weather dropped below 40*. Has anyone figured out a remedy yet?

 

[Delhux]

If you cover the center vents with Ford Bronco brochures, it sorta-kinda defrosts the sides.

 

[Missionsparta]

If you cover the center vents with Ford Bronco brochures, it sorta-kinda defrosts the sides.

I've owned multiple Ford's...the only thing reliable about them is the brochures..so why would I waste them?

 

[Willys2Gladiator]

This is the first Jeep I ever owned that even had a defroster. LOL

Maybe Jeep will do a fix/recall by creating a diverter that will just snap on/into the existing square holes. Or maybe aftermarket support? Done correctly would look factory.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

Just a side discussion on this but those of you who have this defrosting problem, a few questions to clarify the poop soup going on:

1. using the max defrost button?
2. using the auto mode?
3. temperature set to maximum?

On the caps, that's not a solution just a bandaid.

On my now suitably old JKUR, winter operation means full heat, AC on and full defrost to the detriment of everyone else. The issue to my eyes is air flow. You can't move enough air over enough heat exchanger both slow enough AND fast enough to overcome thermal losses and volumetric losses. It'll make sense I promise.

The exchanger (heater core) should be larger and in a larger enclosure to so more air can spend more time in contact with the heater core. Moving more BTU from the liquid to the metal to the air means greater air temps. More hot air means more comfort and safety. Increasing the CFM of the distribution fan means more of this hot air moving about the cabin. By creating a relatively hot and dry positive pressure environment in the cabin the cold and moist air of winter is both expelled and deterred from entering. And all your hot wet breath is likewise accounted for.

So it seems like the air isn't hot enough to overcome thermal losses from the glass, the CFM of the fan isn't enough to keep the heat pumping system pumping enough heat and the distribution system fails to direct enough tepid barley moving air at the lossy glass to do much of anything other than make noise. Sounds to me like value engineering strikes again. Big exchangers cost money and space and weight, effective fans cost money and space and weight and draw amps which means more battery and alternator which cost more money and space and weight... you see the spiral.

Can it be "fixed"? Dunno, might just have to give everyone a 1500w bottom hose block heater and hope for the best.

 

[Gatorized]

Just a side discussion on this but those of you who have this defrosting problem, a few questions to clarify the poop soup going on:

1. using the max defrost button?
2. using the auto mode?
3. temperature set to maximum?

On the caps, that's not a solution just a bandaid.

On my now suitably old JKUR, winter operation means full heat, AC on and full defrost to the detriment of everyone else. The issue to my eyes is air flow. You can't move enough air over enough heat exchanger both slow enough AND fast enough to overcome thermal losses and volumetric losses. It'll make sense I promise.

The exchanger (heater core) should be larger and in a larger enclosure to so more air can spend more time in contact with the heater core. Moving more BTU from the liquid to the metal to the air means greater air temps. More hot air means more comfort and safety. Increasing the CFM of the distribution fan means more of this hot air moving about the cabin. By creating a relatively hot and dry positive pressure environment in the cabin the cold and moist air of winter is both expelled and deterred from entering. And all your hot wet breath is likewise accounted for.

So it seems like the air isn't hot enough to overcome thermal losses from the glass, the CFM of the fan isn't enough to keep the heat pumping system pumping enough heat and the distribution system fails to direct enough tepid barley moving air at the lossy glass to do much of anything other than make noise. Sounds to me like value engineering strikes again. Big exchangers cost money and space and weight, effective fans cost money and space and weight and draw amps which means more battery and alternator which cost more money and space and weight... you see the spiral.

Can it be "fixed"? Dunno, might just have to give everyone a 1500w bottom hose block heater and hope for the best.

Or just use the caps so the heat is distributed to where it is needed.

 

[johnparjr]

Was out in the woods yesterday with snow at about 19 Deg and had no issues at all with the defrost

 

[WK2JT]

Was out in the woods yesterday with snow at about 19 Deg and had no issues at all with the defrost

Are you just using the defrost button?

 

[FREEZE451]

I've noticed it a bit, and stumbled across heated wiper blades. More curious if they work than anything..

Doesn't help I did tint the window - logic tells me that if it keeps heat out, it will keep heat in.

However, I shall check back in... When it snows again

 

[BigRed97]

Im in MA ...I know what you guys are talking about but it's really a non issue..... YOU'RE BEING IMPATIENT.

The defrost setting WILL CLEAR the entire windshield. You have to give it a few minutes to warm up and then set the blower speed to high and the the mode selector to full defrost (full clockwise)
And FYI The push button is only the rear window and mirrors, for the those saying to hit the button....

Yes it begins to clear only the center but once it's warmed up the rest will clear. Once it's cleared initially it will keep it clear and you can change your mode selection and blower speed

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