Going to Buy Again In December 2021

[j.o.y.ride]

IDK. I specifically bought the Overland because it was just as nice inside and out as the Rubicon for $12k less on the deal I got for JTO vs JTR. I plan to put that $12k back into the JTO and make it far superior to what the stock JTR would have been.

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[Phljeeper]

I would think no matter the decision you make it will be what you want and not a financial decision. There is no way that selling a less than 1 year old Jeep and buying a new one (that is likely more expensive) will result in saving money or being a good financial decision. But sometimes getting what you want requires spending money. I think the issue you are encountering from the forum is that you said you wanted to change to benefit financially with lower payments. That just doesn’t make sense and most likely as others have said you can cancel the added services as if they can be cancelled when you sell I am sure they can be cancelled now. But if the change is because you want different then that is what it is and go for it.

 

[BLK HOLE]

Talking about finances in what it’s costs you a month is a mistake.

You’ve already taken the hit for overpaying and getting too many options anyway.

There’s really no reason to trade it in unless you just want to. Which it sounds that way.

I made similar mistakes both directions. My JKUR (which I still own) I made several options (I ordered it) and just about all of those options are gone now - stereo/dual tops/heated seats (those are still there) and then went bare bones on the JT I ordered only to regret not having some options and replaced the Jeep.

 

[Snzzbry_Ovrlnd]

Lockers, not an 'easy' fix but certainly doable and many would say the ARB have advantages over the e-lockers on the Rubicon. One of which being it won't short out ;-). You can buy a complete front/rear locker with single pump for ~$2k. Add labor. Optional at same time is gears.

Ecodiesel, this one isn't gonna be upgradeable.

Aux switches, def can be added. Slight pain some report but possible for sure.

Rubicon is literally 1" higher. Just buy some take off Rubicon stuff when someone upgrades. This is exceedingly easy to find as Rubicon owners are well known to rip out a lot of the Rubicon stuff esp the wheels and suspension.

Oracle LED are superior to the much more expensive factory LED. $550 DIY.

Front camera, meh. if you really want it and you have the 8.4 you can add.

I can 99% promise you that you will take a bath on the Overland and pay $10k more for the Rubicon. Now if you do it, or tell yourself you will do it, for the diesel then fine, that is insurmountable. But the other stuff you can spend the same $10k extra the Rubi + your depreciation and trade in hit, or put $5k into your Overland.

Even without the motor, the upgrades are far more than 5K. I haven't even mentioned suspension or wheels and tires. Even Rubi knock offs are going to cost me. And I really don't see my truck depreciating much.

 

[Snzzbry_Ovrlnd]

I would think no matter the decision you make it will be what you want and not a financial decision. There is no way that selling a less than 1 year old Jeep and buying a new one (that is likely more expensive) will result in saving money or being a good financial decision. But sometimes getting what you want requires spending money. I think the issue you are encountering from the forum is that you said you wanted to change to benefit financially with lower payments. That just doesn’t make sense and most likely as others have said you can cancel the added services as if they can be cancelled when you sell I am sure they can be cancelled now. But if the change is because you want different then that is what it is and go for it.

Unless I wrote something that I don't remember, I never said I would have less payments. I fully expect my payments to be higher. Just without the extra fees that come with some of those extra coverages I purchased the first time around, the difference might not be so much. AND not sure why people are saying I'm going to take a bath on selling or trading in my truck.

 

[jurfie]

AND not sure why people are saying I'm going to take a bath on selling or trading in my truck.

Only one way to find out.

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

I would love to except for 2 major points. First, I don't know very much about trucks, or jeeps. I was never a gearhead. I love to know more, but I feel pretty dumb most of the time. Second, I am in shitty shape. With all the nerve damage I have, it wrecked me pretty hard to do my spacer lift and I had someone help me. I feel like to more difficult stuff might be out of my range and then I'm paying through the nose for labor.

Find a Jeep club nearby and get more help.
You dont have to be a gearhead but learning should be part of the equation. I know it seems easier to just finance all this stuff on a new truck but your wallet is going to hurt for it.

 

[lrtexasman]

Lockers, front and rear. Aux switches. Ecodiesel. Extra height of Rubicon. Improved shocks. LED light package. Front camera.

I would look for some Rubicon take offs wheels to add to yours and then sell those wheels. You can find them on FB and craigslist for as low as $800 (try to get all 5). Secondly, on the next go round, I would consider the Freedom Package if you are trying to keep the payment down. The Freedom package is going to have most of what you want without the Rubicon price. However, with that said, if you want a Rubicon then get one. You can always build a base Rubicon up with take-offs from a well equipped Rubicon (steel bumpers, LEDs, leather seats, aux switches) and can't really turn another trim into a Rubicon (front locker/E-disconnect sway bar) for less than buying one to begin with. Also definitely use Daniel Gupton and order one below invoice.

 

[khockey02]

Couple of things to consider:
1. New uConnect 5 will be available
2. Rubicon PHEV on its way
3. 392 possibly

Seems being patient will give you more options while you enjoy what you have now

My thoughts exactly. Assuming you did overpay, there isn’t much you can do about that now. I’m in a similar boat where I wish I would have gotten heated seats and parking sensors, etc. I figure it’ll make more sense to be patient and trade in when there are more interesting goodies to add. Probably on a 4xE (if it ends up being any good) with uconnect5

 

[869 KPH]

Couple of things to consider:
1. New uConnect 5 will be available
2. Rubicon PHEV on its way
3. 392 possibly

Seems being patient will give you more options while you enjoy what you have now

Is number 1 common knowledge or confirmed now? I'm waiting to buy for a number of reasons, and uConnect 5 would be a major bonus.

 

[Loosescrews]

If a 392 option is available I will be trading with no regards of a poor financial decision.

 

[Adawg1203]

IDK. I specifically bought the Overland because it was just as nice inside and out as the Rubicon for $12k less on the deal I got for JTO vs JTR. I plan to put that $12k back into the JTO and make it far superior to what the stock JTR would have been.

Pound for pound there is less than a 4K difference between the Overland and Rubicon. I’d say there were some boxes checked on the Rubi that weren’t on the Overland.

 

[21RG]

Even without the motor, the upgrades are far more than 5K. I haven't even mentioned suspension or wheels and tires. Even Rubi knock offs are going to cost me. And I really don't see my truck depreciating much.

I have a set of Rubi wheels with TPMS and Falken AT tires, 500 mi on them and I will have the springs and shocks available if you are interested. The only issue is I am in PA, but will be traveling to Ft. Bragg NC in March. I looked at the map, based on your location it is just under 4hrs from you.

 

[Snzzbry_Ovrlnd]

I have a set of Rubi wheels with TPMS and Falken AT tires, 500 mi on them and I will have the springs and shocks available if you are interested. The only issue is I am in PA, but will be traveling to Ft. Bragg NC in March. I looked at the map, based on your location it is just under 4hrs from you.

Thanks for the offer but the difference in tire sizes is about 1 inch between the Rubi 17s and my JTO 18s. If I upgrade tires soon, it will be for a 34 or 35 inch tire. I just put on a lift myself (spacer), so I can easily remove it if I trade it in at the end of the year.

I'm at the point now where I will probably just make mods that will increase the sell value, like a tonneau cover, LED lights, and possibly new bumpers. This are all mods I want for me, so it works both ways.

 

[Unkiebunk045]

Unless I wrote something that I don't remember, I never said I would have less payments. I fully expect my payments to be higher. Just without the extra fees that come with some of those extra coverages I purchased the first time around, the difference might not be so much. AND not sure why people are saying I'm going to take a bath on selling or trading in my truck.

Those extras that you bought are shown to you in the monthly fee, but they have an overall cost that is spread across either the loan or the lease. Unless you can get out of them early that is extra negative equity in the car.

The only way to tell how upside down you’ll be, if at all, is to call the company who you financed with and get the current buyout, if it’s a lease than ask for the dealer buyout; some dealers don’t have to pay the sales tax on a lease buyout so it’s less for them to buy. Go on KBB and get a rough value for your truck to see where you are at.

How much money did you put down? Taxes and fees are $2500-3500 typically, so figure any part of your down payment covered that first; then you think you overpaid initially which means your loan started overly inflated to begin with.

I’ve had 12 cars in the last 10 years, longest i’ve kept a car was 13 months; I trade them in for a new one; i’m ok with the negative equity because i get something new and something i want; but i do always end up with a higher payment then someone with the same car.


Also when you calculate how much you really “lost”—add you down payment, plus all of your payments, all the mods that you don’t take with you; subtract what you sell it for and what you buy the new one for. if it’s negative that’s how much it costs you to own the keep for a year.

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