Still pulling to the right (slightly) after front end alignment

[cuteangel1007]

Hello everyone,

I took my 2020 Rubicon back to the dealership because I was fighting the steering wheel with a sever-ish pull to the right.
Let me back up.

The night I drove my Trixee home after purchase and noticed a severe-ish pull to the right. I called the dealership sales person the next day, told him the issues, never got a call back. I got frustrated and finally took it to America's Tire to have a rotation done, because I noticed uneven wear on the front passenger tire, thought that may be contributing to the right side pull. They looked at it and wouldn't touch it because they said the vehicle "is not safe" because of signs of cupping on the tires. They said it's a suspension issue.
I called the dealership again and told them what AT said, the dealership told me to bring it back to them. Did that yesterday. They did an alignment and gave me 4 new tires to make sure they're all even and the same. The issue with the steering is better, not nearly as severe as before, but I am still getting a right hand pull. It's slight, but it's there. I notice it because I have carpal tunnel in my right wrist, and a neck and shoulder injury on my left, so when I have to constantly correct the wheel, it can cause issues/pain, not severe, but enough that I notice it.

Aaaaanywaaaay, my question is, do y'all have the same right pull issue? Is it a common issue and nothing to worry about, or do I need to go fight with the dealership more to have the suspension gone over and corrected,,, again (or tell then to buy it back). They said they had already fixed some suspension issue before they sold it to me, though I have the feeling they put a bandaid on it and hoped to sell it to someone who doesn't know what they're driving.
It's supposed to be a Jeep "Certified" vehicle from a "5 star" dealership.. I have not had a 5 star experience yet (felt more like I got the run-around when I went to drop it off), but at least they didn't try to charge me anything today when I picked it up.

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[darkhorse13]

They said they had already fixed some suspension issue before they sold it to me

First off, a severe pull is NOT a common thing.

My advise is to find out exactly "what" they fixed AND get a print out of the alignment spec sheet. Did AT clarify what "a suspension issue" means to them? It doesn't seem coincidental that both places mention a suspension problem in their diagnosis.

If the Dealership won't give specifics on either of those then have them buy it back.

 

[Waltzforzizi]

Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the steering components.

 

[Waltzforzizi]

Also, look at the frame where the steering box is bolted to while someone turns the steering wheel back and forth, notice any deflection in the frame?

 

[cuteangel1007]

@darkhorse13 Thank you for the advise. I did get the printout of the alignment, though I don't really know what I'm reading. The dealership had to take the vehicle to Big O tire for them to do the alignment because their own alignment machine is broken. I have attached what the dealership gave me. I don't know anything about suspension and it's parts. All I know how to do is change brake pads and take rotors off for turning then put them back on.

 

[cuteangel1007]

@Waltzforzizi Thank you for the advise, what am I looking for when someone turns the wheel? I don't know anything about suspension and it's parts. I know there's an axle, tie rods, and a few other things, but I don't know what most of the parts look like. Axles are easy because they're so out in the open.
I remember having my struts and strut mounts replaced on my Mazdaspeed3, because it had a pulling issue also, I know-ish what the parts do, but don't know exactly what they look like.

 

[texanjeeper]

My 2020 Sport-S has never had steering pull, or any issues at all. I've not lifted mine though, or messed around with the suspension at all besides putting a 1.5 inch leveling kit on the front.

 

[Charles 236]

The cross caster shown on the printout is a bit on the high side, especially considering that the higher caster is on the left. This increases the "pull" to the right, and would be even worse if the negative camber on the left side wasn't counteracting the caster. That is, the greater camber on the right side is helping to offset the higher caster on the left side. The "fix" would be increasing the caster on the right side (reducing the cross caster). Most people would probably do that with adjustable lower control arms.

 

[PuddleJumper]

@darkhorse13 Thank you for the advise. I did get the printout of the alignment, though I don't really know what I'm reading. The dealership had to take the vehicle to Big O tire for them to do the alignment because their own alignment machine is broken. I have attached what the dealership gave me. I don't know anything about suspension and it's parts. All I know how to do is change brake pads and take rotors off for turning then put them back on.

From what i can tell, one of your LCA bolts came loose enough to shift what i would say is the passenger wheel a 1/8 in back. this is what would mess up the cross caster and paired to how they like to run toe on these vehicles, it would pull to the right. I had the same issue when I installed the extended MOPAR LCAs and didn't notice the passenger one sat too far forward in its perch and the dealer couldn't align it despite the numbers saying it was straight enough. Jeep only has 2 points of adjustment anyway so a tech usually won't know where to look if anything outside of the toe being wrong. I had to loosen the passenger side and rachet strap the axle to frame and pull it till it sat the same in its perch as the driver side. Then tightened down again. Drove straight after that and has ever since.


edit: dumb dumb moment. I forgot i'm not in IFS world. Cross caster is fine, it can't be change. but ya can fool the machine into thinking ya did. but reset it regardless of adjustments made and it'll read within spec unless the axle is bent. still, got a strong feeling about an arm getting nudged out of wack.

 

[cuteangel1007]

So,,,, what is the cross castor?
What is the toe?
Too bad y'all live so far away. I wish I could have someone help to educate me and coach me in person on these issues so that I know what y'all are talking about! I eventually would like to do the work myself,, if I ever learn enough.

THANK YOU to all who have answered!! ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the steering components.

That's for loose or wandering steering, not a pull.
a pull will be a tire issue, extreme caster or camber side-to-side differences.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The cross caster shown on the printout is a bit on the high side, especially considering that the higher caster is on the left. This increases the "pull" to the right, and would be even worse if the negative camber on the left side wasn't counteracting the caster. That is, the greater camber on the right side is helping to offset the higher caster on the left side. The "fix" would be increasing the caster on the right side (reducing the cross caster). Most people would probably do that with adjustable lower control arms.

Agree on the "cross caster" but you can't change that on a solid front axle. It's built-in.
Control arms will only change both sides.
Take a wood rod or dowel and try to push the bottom of one end of it further forward without changing the other end. Can't be done.
Ball joint shims are the only real solution.

 

[Badunit]

You cannot adjust cross caster on a solid front axle. Cross caster is welded in. If you change the caster on one side it changes it by the same amount on the other side. On vehicles with adjustable lower control arms I've seen ill-informed technicians crank the adjusters all out of whack trying to change cross-caster and it does change the numbers on the machine but all they are really doing is putting the suspension in a bind (and changing the thrust angle a little). I'm sure if they put it back on the machine the cross caster would be back, because it was never truly changed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You cannot adjust cross caster on a solid front axle. Cross caster is welded in. If you change the caster on one side it changes it by the same amount on the other side. On vehicles with adjustable lower control arms I've seen ill-informed technicians crank the adjusters all out of whack trying to change cross-caster and it does change the numbers on the machine but all they are really doing is putting the suspension in a bind (and changing the thrust angle a little). I'm sure if they put it back on the machine the cross caster would be back, because it was never truly changed.

Finally, some truth/logic.
i've said it over and over - you can only change caster by the same amount on both sides, not change the difference, not without balljoint shims or similar.
It's a solid tube. You can't turn one end of the tube and not turn the other, only shove things forward and skew it.

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